Sign in   |  Join   |  Help
Untitled Page

ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
READ ONLY FORUM

This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

CD 5500 CD tray and read issue - done the regular culprits

rated by 0 users
This post has 13 Replies | 2 Followers

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam Posted: Sat, Sep 27 2014 4:45 PM

Hi all,

So I've had a CD 5500 I picked up which wouldn't read cd's. Only after investigating the forum and the "easy fix" of the 33/47 uF blue Philips/BC/Vishay cap did I part with my money...

So, replaced it. No joy.
Replaced the 4 other electrolytics on the servo board, still no joy.

So here I am, asking your expertise to identify my problem!

Basically, after all the work done the following happens:

1. Press open. Tray opening is slow to respond (the belt tensions then releases with a full forward jerk (ie, replace belt)).

2. machine turns off once open

OK, so place CD manually in the tray & close:

1. Press play. "Track" lights up.

2. Hear the laser assembly smack forward against the white CD2 assembly plastic, motor attempts to spin cd (feeble), then CDP turns off.

Apart from replacing the caps I have made no other adjustments (apart from giving the three PSU regulators some soldier attention)...

Any knowledgeable people out there to give me some new pointers? If not, I'm back on the market for a working CD5500...

Thanks, Sam

chartz
Top 25 Contributor
Burgundy, France
Posts 4,171
OFFLINE
Gold Member
chartz replied on Sat, Sep 27 2014 5:09 PM

Check the PSU caps as well. The big alu Philips usually lasts forever, but the other ones are prone to failure. You might get low voltages.

Jacques

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam replied on Sat, Sep 27 2014 5:33 PM

Thanks.

I'd hoped that wasn't the answer...

But hey ho, it's off to the components shop I go (again).

Nothing is ever easy!!!

chartz
Top 25 Contributor
Burgundy, France
Posts 4,171
OFFLINE
Gold Member
chartz replied on Thu, Oct 2 2014 7:25 AM

No news is good news I guess, eh?

Jacques

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam replied on Sat, Oct 4 2014 3:35 PM

Sorry, been away on training all week.
Getting repeatedly dunked underwater in a capsized helicopter takes it out of you a bit!

So, your advice would be to leave the two silver ones C13 and C18?

Otherwise I'll replace those around the regulators and C3/C6, the two other larger ones (for now).

 

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam replied on Sun, Oct 12 2014 10:48 AM

OK,

So replaced every single electrolytic on the board apart from the two big silver ones as mentioned previously, and those 100uF around the output op-amps (figured that when it works I'd find something nice). Everything else is new.

Now the drawer opens fine - small victories

When putting in a CD it does a feeble spin, I hear the laser assembly hit the CDM2 white plastic, then it goes for a proper spin for about a second and then turns itself off.

Any ideas where to start?

I do have a replacement for C18 (the silver 2200uF) reserved for another project, but is it worth a swap? Or is something else awry?

Thanks, Sam

 

chartz
Top 25 Contributor
Burgundy, France
Posts 4,171
OFFLINE
Gold Member
chartz replied on Sun, Oct 12 2014 1:03 PM

I take it that you used a real CD...

Have you also replaced the servo board electrolytics?

Jacques

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam replied on Sun, Oct 12 2014 1:45 PM

Hi Jacques,

Yes, I used a number of different 'real' CD's just to check...

All electrolytic caps on the servo board are replaced also.

I have read a post saying that  WIMA 1.5uF should replace C2159 (470uF on mine), but I have not done this. I trust the original engineering.

Are there any common points to start with measuring voltages etc or other checks?

chartz
Top 25 Contributor
Burgundy, France
Posts 4,171
OFFLINE
Gold Member
chartz replied on Mon, Oct 13 2014 10:04 AM

Check your solders on the servo board (and the main board, the tracks are fragile and easily broken), the wired connections. Any pictures of what you did are more than welcome. A video perhaps.

I did the Wima mod, and it just made the transport a bit quieter!

 

Jacques

Dillen
Top 10 Contributor
Copenhagen / Denmark
Posts 13,191
OFFLINE
Founder
Moderator
Dillen replied on Mon, Oct 13 2014 11:50 AM

Sam:

I have read a post saying that  WIMA 1.5uF should replace C2159 (470uF on mine), but I have not done this. I trust the original engineering.

470uF ?  - where ?
The 1,5uF in question replaces a 1,5uF bipolar electrolytic cap on the servo board.

Martin

chartz
Top 25 Contributor
Burgundy, France
Posts 4,171
OFFLINE
Gold Member
chartz replied on Mon, Oct 13 2014 11:53 AM

470 nF perhaps?

Jacques

Sam
Not Ranked
Derby, UK
Posts 7
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Sam replied on Mon, Oct 13 2014 5:01 PM

Yes, 470nF ceramic. Sorry about that Martin, simple typo.

I think mine is a very early version, with a CDM2 transport and a 1987 date stamp on the tray motor.

The main cuircuit board is fragile, I managed to lift a track while soldering! Iron slightly too hot :s

I will take some pictures when I return home and give them an upload. I shall give the servo board some attention when I can.

If you reccommend the WIMA replacement, I will see about ordering one when I know it's a secure investment!

Thanks for your help so far!

Ignacio
Not Ranked
Barcelona
Posts 39
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Ignacio replied on Sun, Feb 13 2022 4:31 PM

Hello Sam

I'm experiencing in my CD 6500 the same behaviour you described but on top my CD spins backward.

I'm wondering if you finally found the cure? :)

Thanks

Ignacio
Not Ranked
Barcelona
Posts 39
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
Ignacio replied on Sun, Feb 13 2022 4:31 PM

Hello Sam

I'm experiencing in my CD 6500 the same behaviour you described but on top my CD spins backward.

I'm wondering if you finally found the cure? :)

Thanks

Page 1 of 1 (14 items) | RSS