ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Latest acquisition is a Beocord 8000. Cosmetically very nice condition, was told it was bought in 79 (though I think only made from 81?) anyhow, nice example. Came with a mint owners manual, and it looks like the motor was replaced as it's dated 89. Capacitors and trim pots all look original, so I have some work to do. Some mounting tabs in the plastic under the control panel are broken, so needs a bit of a repair. I'm printing the first prototype now, so that might be something else for the commercial printers to look at when I finally get there.
--mika
tournedos: Sorry for the non-B&O content, but this old Bernina is just too awesome
Sorry for the non-B&O content, but this old Bernina is just too awesome
Lovely bit of engineering, Mika
Vähintään yhdeksänkymmentä prosenttia suomalainen!
tournedos:Sorry for the non-B&O content, but this old Bernina is just too awesome
Serviced my wife's Singer embroidery machine a couple of weeks ago (cleaning and some drops of oil) 10-12 years old amazing engineering
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Søren Mexico: Serviced my wife's Singer embroidery machine a couple of weeks ago (cleaning and some drops of oil) 10-12 years old amazing engineering
This Bernina 707 is from 1967 and the GF's now late mother had bought it new, that's why I'm trying to keep it in the family so to speak - and I actually need a sewing machine every now and then. It's a lovely piece of Swiss engineering. Aside some knobs, the machine has about 2 plastic parts in total (the gears) and both are split, causing it to jam. I've replaced the first one but still need to figure out how to get to the vertical shaft without disassembling everything.
Yesterday I was fixing my newly bought Beolink 7000. New capacitors for the two-way communication and a new battery. Today I´ve dismantled my uncles Beocord 2000 which has been standing still for a few years. The belt has turned into goo, so I´ve ordered a new set and brought out the IPA.
BeoPlay A9 Mk. II "Special Edition" - "Smoked Oak"
Beosound Stage "Contrast Collection" - Anthracite
Beoplay M5 - Black
Beomaster 7000 + Beocord 7000 + Beogram 7000 MMC1/2 + Beogram CD7000 + Beolink 7000 + Beolab 8000
Beocenter 9500 + Beolink 1000
AUX Expander "Custom Mod" (built-in Bluetooth streaming)
The red ROEs are not only ones break. My tester claims this is perfectly fine resistor.
Filed under Beocenter 9500 RIAA
blah-blah and photographs as needed
All black Roederstein capacitors are to be replaced on sight.They are worse than the older red, grey and orange ones.The black ones short!
Martin
Decided to fix two old Beo4s. I took both apart for a good clean, sanded all of the coating of the bodies off and sprayed them with MoTip heat resistant black. This paint has a bit of texture and needs to be baked at 160 degrees for hardening (it smells a bit so I put it in the oven AFTER the lasagna). I combined the best parts to a now brand new looking and feeling Beo4. I hope the paint will be a bit durable.
The other Beo4 got all the problems: worn letters on the keypad, a display with missing pixels, a damaged display bezel and a battery cover missing some hooks :-) It still works fine though.
Dillen: All black Roederstein capacitors are to be replaced on sight.They are worse than the older red, grey and orange ones.The black ones short! Martin
Wonder why they put it there, at quick look only ROE in unit. This was steady 0,5ohm.
Roederstein was in fact very good quality components when new.Unfortunately, they don't age well. The black ones in particular.
Jacques
fkatze: The fun continues. New holder for the slide control board. Printing as I type this. I made a happy discovery about the left hand slide cover - it is basically the same as the right hand one, but just a little bit shorter, and the mounting holes in a slightly different position (and only 2 instead of 3). <edit> Just fitted it up - first thing I don't have to do a second time! Pretty happy with it, but I might have used PETG and a higher infill ratio. Not to matter. I will change over to PETG and I'll redo everything then.
The fun continues. New holder for the slide control board. Printing as I type this. I made a happy discovery about the left hand slide cover - it is basically the same as the right hand one, but just a little bit shorter, and the mounting holes in a slightly different position (and only 2 instead of 3).
<edit>
Just fitted it up - first thing I don't have to do a second time! Pretty happy with it, but I might have used PETG and a higher infill ratio. Not to matter. I will change over to PETG and I'll redo everything then.
Really enjoying the CAD snippets and seeing more 3DP here! PETG is a great material, maybe the best when in need of easy printing and decent mechanical strength.
Beo4 'til I die!
I have a lot of free time these days because of the lockdown. I fixed my beogram 4000, and today it was the turn of the beomaster 1200 which had been waiting for a revision for too long. It is an intact, complete and original sample. Even the power plug is the original equipment one. It worked, but with many defects (hum, noisy switches, noisy potentiometers, an intermittent channel).
Once opened I was able to notice the dirt accumulated in 50 years and the components still all original. I proceeded to recap the amplification board and the preamplifier board, which was also carefully cleaned. The potentiometers were also cleaned and treated with flux.
<a href="https://ibb.co/spTdbNR"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/kVLs5wB/DSC-4246.jpg" alt="DSC-4246" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/hC4WbBm"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/R7s0f3D/DSC-4251.jpg" alt="DSC-4251" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/zm6sMsG"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nwPrGrz/DSC-4272.jpg" alt="DSC-4272" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/tD1HJVh"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/kXPGSNy/DSC-4274.jpg" alt="DSC-4274" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/SQZVxSJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CJSVtLW/DSC-4275.jpg" alt="DSC-4275" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/mDMDLfS"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/8KSKW1X/DSC-4277.jpg" alt="DSC-4277" border="0"></a>
Main capacitors are now 2x2200uF (original 1x3000uF) and output capacitors are 4700uF/25V (original 3000/25V). That's what I had, but I think they will do their job. Many original capacitors were way out of spec, but no one was shorted. Fitted new low ESR electrolytics.
Checked transistor idle voltage and regulated supply voltage as per manual. Everything fine. Cleaned everything and reassembled.
In my opinion one of the most iconic and beautiful B&O products ever made, now in all its glory.
Something a little different for me...……..
Craig: Something a little different for me...……..
That would make a great B&O repair shed
Something different for me too. Still overseas due to virus etc. Working on a couple of old Walkman style players on kitchen bench. This last one was a fair challenge, bought inop, now working happily. I even got it to record. Couple more in the pipeline, and also a Technics SU-Z36, which looks in good nick. I managed to get a bunch of supplies for my B&O projects for when I finally get back home.
Wonder how many of these I have allready done. Sonewhere between 10, 20? Usual problems and silent RIAA, broken supply tr. More or less siezed tapedeck, lack of use. And it was all pieces as previous owner has started to "fix" machine. Not complety mint, but everything works.
I got hold of an RDS module for my 2-way BC2300 and have just fitted it. It came mounted to the tuner board so I now have one of those spare if anyone wants it (should fit BC2300 or BC2500)
Photos of fitting:
oouuuuuhhh ! May like to have it ! My haunted BC2300 has no RDS!
matador43: oouuuuuhhh ! May like to have it ! My haunted BC2300 has no RDS!
For clarification: It's only the tuner board (without RDS) that I have spare!
But there's one on eBay here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BANG-OLUFSEN-B-O-RDS-Modul-BeoCenter-BeoSystem-BeoSound-Ouverture/174097011998?hash=item2888fd951e:g:DRoAAOSwXrBbDDiH
Ah, ok, no prob. Not even sure i would have the courage to open it again anyway! But thank you anyway.
Ok, So I could get that Beogram 1202 for mini-money. Perfect deck for me as it combines BG3000 quality with BG1203 platter that I like more. Will replace my Frankengram built with this two aforementioned decks and give each one their original parts (yes it's three decks in total ).
The deck as a lot of problem, I'll try to address one by one thanks to Soren's thread and any help I could find here later…
For now, Lets do with what my skills allows. Luckily the deck came with his cover. Unfortunately the little B&O Badge was missing.
Lets try to solve this:
1-Taking measures of the square hole and the original badge. Fortunately I had a real model with my BC1200 cover.Size is 14x17 mm.
2-Trace it on computer and print it reverse on transparent paper.
3-On the printed side stick some aluminium paper adhesive tape.
Looks good so far:
4-Stick Double side adhesive on the back of the aluminium.
5-Cut along the crop marks, peel the double side tape and voilà! (may need some attemps to stick the aluminum without folds).
The genuine one is not alu but silver. Well I thought its better than grey!
Cheers!
That's a very nice replacement badge!
Itry to put new ebony veneer on my Beovox:
BeO is like a good wine - the older the better...
Johan:Decided to fix two old Beo4s. I took both apart for a good clean, sanded all of the coating of the bodies off and sprayed them with MoTip heat resistant black. This paint has a bit of texture and needs to be baked at 160 degrees for hardening (it smells a bit so I put it in the oven AFTER the lasagna). I combined the best parts to a now brand new looking and feeling Beo4. I hope the paint will be a bit durable. The other Beo4 got all the problems: worn letters on the keypad, a display with missing pixels, a damaged display bezel and a battery cover missing some hooks :-) It still works fine though.
"You think we can slap some oak on this thing?"
Hi leosgonewild! No I did not spray the batterycovers. I do have an update however. The spraypaint did not last long. Even with the 'baking' the sharp edges wore off fast. I dismantled all my Beo4s (somehow I always break the battery wires and have to solder :-( ) and took them to a powdercoating shop where they were coated with a black, light textured coating. They are now really finished well and lasting for months.
I paid 75 euro for 5 bodies. The company mostly coats wheels of cars, quite durable coatings.
I will next time ask to hang them upside down up when the powder is sprayed on: I had to scrape out some of the coating to fit the display, there was too much powder built up in the corners there.
At first I tought the texture was a bit too coarse, but I like them a lot now.
See the image of two of them below:
Johan:The spraypaint did not last long.
Once upon a time I changed some 80's tan interior pieces in a car to black using can of spray paint, and prepping with ESP (https://www.tradepaintdirect.co.uk/products/owatrol-esp-easy-surface-preparation - I think this is the same stuff, different tin, but whatever). Really got great adhesion, and even on high wear parts like door handles, never wore off.
Hi fkatze,
That would be indeed a good explanation of the paint weariing off so easily. I did use MoTip primer, but still. it was not great. The powdercoating is staying on really well however. And they first sandblasted the old paint off so I reckon the new coat is nicely holding on to the rough metal surface. Thinking about it: how would a Beo4 with another color body look like :-). Dark blue, or white? I have not seen many beo4s in other colors than black!
Johan
Going through a Beomaster 5500 after getting the Master Control Panel going...
This Beomaster is much nicer than the BM5000 I previously learned so much on. It basically worked ok but several of the RCA connectors were loose with broken PCB traces. Not a concern to me as I use the DIN plugs, but I fixed them anyway.
Replaced the idle current trimmers as a matter of course along with the main power relay and the muting relay which both had high contact resistance,
I eliminated all of the black ROE (derstein) capacitors but none exhibit any leakage and all tested to spec. The three red ROEs had 1 too high, 1 too low and 1 just right for capacitance.
The cooling fan board had a black ROE cap which tested OK but the gold axial 68uf tested with leakage. Both were replaced.
All of the capacitors relating to the 5v standby power were replaced, and a 100nf cap was added to 2TR8 B-E junction. Due to my previous experience with the BM5000, I replaced the bridge rectifiers, even though the 5500 showed no signs of overheating.
Interestingly, the electrolytics on the processor board tested low capacity, as had the BM5000, which had degraded to the point of not starting.
Also interestingly, the 3v lithium giant coin cell battery is still putting out 3.2v after 35 years.
As the amplifier and power board is more difficult to remove, I replaced all electrolytics except the giant filter caps which tested good for ESR.
The very many orange Rubycon caps on the sound and tuner boards can stay for now as they all had good ESR.
Put it all together, turn it on, set the idle current, check some voltages, and.... It just works with no drama, interesting smells, smoke or explosions. Quite unlike the BM5000 learning experience....
¡No entiendo Español!
NEIN! Nicht Versteh!
Я немного говорю по-русскии но не очень хорошо... и
I'm not very good at English either! Maybe someday I'll find a language I'm good at?
Hi guys,
One of my Beogram 12XX still need a lot of care and because I'm still afraid of tearing it appart (essentially to infuse the bearings) I decide to concentrate on what I think I'm more likely able to do. So, because the lift button disc was missing, I jumped into something I had in mind for month.
Let's start with the bottom of a "Cassoulet" can. Of course you can use any can as long are there is a plain disc of 35 mm wide.Cut it roughly:
Then, refine the cut to a diameter of 34+ mm.
Then you need to find any screw with the widest head you can; That one comes from an Ikea furniture:
Stick the screw concentric to the disc with (not that) strong double sided tape and mount it on a driller:
Then hold the drill tight, make it spin and use a metal file to round the disc:
Then softly pressing fine sanding paper and spinning the drill, brush the metal:
Before:
After:
Advices for next time: brush the disc first, the concentric pattern will help to center the screw and control the disc is perfectly round when refining with the file. In my attempt, I rounded the disc first, making it slightly off centered because the screw was not precisely installed.
To my great surprise the difficult part was to remove the double side tape from the disc without bending it; don't use too strong adhesive.
Now let's find old decal letter's.
Hope this help.
Now that is what I call upcycling of used packaging material! Nice job
Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + TurntableKitchen: BeoPlay M3Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab CelestialEntrance: BeoPlay M3
Done(-ish) with the Beomaster 5500, it's in service and sounding better than the Beocenter 7700.
So now on to the battered Beogram CD 5500.
This Beogram CD 5500 came to me pre-broken from an eBay seller that had sold it and shipped it without the transport locks engaged and it arrived at the buyer broken. It got shipped back for a refund, likely adding to the damage, and then I bought it as scrap and it got shipped again!
By the time it arrived, the disc transport was thoroughly battered. A pity, the transport locks were safely in the storage holes!
Last week, I got the time to go through it. Fortunately, only one rail was loose due to a non-replaceable rear mount AND the broken piece was still inside.
Some industrial epoxy that works well on plastics got the busted rail mount fixed, lots of Windex to clean out the dirty chassis and drive mechanics, a better belt for the disc tray, put it all together, get the mechanical adjustments roughed in and,..... doesnt read the disc,
Also, sometimes the motor spins backwards! This sound like power related, so a check at the platter motor connector revealed the -9.5 supply was very erratic. Unplug the motor and the supply seems fine. Maybe the motor draws too much current? Out with the mechanism, hook up two 9v batteries, give it a control signal and the motor runs just great. Put it all back together and track the -9.5v supply and it's sagging right back to the diodes. Let's see, even the un-rectified AC sags at the diodes! Check at the power transformer and it's fine. Ah-Hah! cracked solder joint at the main power connector on the main circuit board! Touch up the pins and...... Still won't read the disc, though the -9.5 rail is now nice and steady like the other voltages.
The Internet says C2103 is a good likely cause, so check it and the ESR is way high and the capacity is at 22uf instead of the rated 33uf. Installed the suggested 47uf and... Still no read, except it did just once.
Out with the servo PCB for another look for bad solder joints and, say, what is that sticky substance all over the bottom? Perhaps it's bridging the traces and SMDs? Some alcohol and a toothbrush, try again and now it works! sort of. Move the player just slightly and it conks out. Still, now that it's running, I set the laser current and the focus offset to no effect. They were pretty close anyway.
Finally, another Ah-Hah! It seems that "roughing in" the mechanical adjustments just isn't good enough! Set the disc height and now it runs nicely.
Another Learning Experience!
Almost two years ago I ran across an odd posting on Craigslist...
Beomaster 1900 for sale - $0.00
So I called, spoke with and met with the owners of a broken Beomaster 1900 that wanted to find it a good home, and not to just be scrapped or recycled.
The sale for Zero money had one condition, that I at least try to repair it and find it a good home. I accepted the challenge. They seemed relieved that I had previously restored a Beocenter 7700 and showed them pictures and a video of it.
So back home we go and onto the bench. An initial inspection found some badly deteriorating red ROE caps, burned out bulbs, a dead channel and inoperative sliders. Close inspection of the slider controls revealed that one was bypassed with jumper wires. The little plastic feet were long gone, but the cosmetics were pretty good, almost perfect.
So, I ordered up slider repair kits, plastic feet and a bulb set from Beoparts. In the meantime I recapped the board, replaced the failed parts as well as others that I consider to be at high risk...
Snap! Crackle! Pop! goes the Little Red ROEs...., yes several have cracked open!
Then I scanned in and recreated some slider masks... the final version looks better than this first example.
Around this time, the stuff from Beoparts came in. Two of the slider were easy to repair but the one that had been bypassed, the Fader, had only one of the little metal contacts. Uh-oh! Fortunately, some contacts out of a different type of slider were reasonably compatible. Drat, I didn't take pictures.
So, put it all together, set it up and it ends up working well and looking nice. So, what can I do with it? Nothing much for awhile. Then, some friends who have a nice Grundig tube console that I helped repair seem impressed with my Beocenter 7700. So I bring out the Beomaster 1900 and they love it!
So, if you are reading this, (you know who you are) I fulfilled my end of the bargain. Your Father's Beomaster is restored to good operating condition, is connected to some perfect S45.2s and a Beogram 4002 and has adopted a loving couple to take care of it.
I replaced a noisy and/or vibrating fan with a new Noctua fan in my BeoCenter 6-26. I got the BC for free and gave it some TLC (black cloth on the speaker grille, new speaker rings, new fan and an Apple TV 4 HD). Unfortunately it had no ATV PUC, but I worked around that by using a Humax PUC and teaching the ATV the Humax input :-).
Orava: Wonder how many of these I have allready done. Sonewhere between 10, 20? Usual problems and silent RIAA, broken supply tr. More or less siezed tapedeck, lack of use. And it was all pieces as previous owner has started to "fix" machine. Not complety mint, but everything works.
Hi Orava, I have a Beocenter 9500 with a silant Phono.
Could you give me a hint what usually is giving the problem?Which are the compnents on Board 53 I need to look at?
The other issue this Beocenter has is a humming sound from the transformer, even in Stand by.Do you have experienced this too at one of the Centers you fixed?
Kind regards,
Wolfgang
Might be just this one had silent phono, reason shorted C2 on RIAA board. Humming trafos mght be something out of my scope (at least for this time).