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BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

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JoDap
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JoDap Posted: Fri, Feb 1 2019 5:29 PM

Hi,

I have a problem with my BeoLab 3500 :-(

The other day I had to unplug it for a while and since then it doesn't take any commands from my beo4 anymore. I tried two different remotes (beo4) and also made sure that they worked elsewhere. There is no problem with the remotes. The link connection is also working fine, since I can play music by using the hardware button the front: it plays as used to.

Now the question is: can this be a software issue or do you think it's a hardware thing? How can I fix it?

Cheers,

Johannes

Guy
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Guy replied on Fri, Feb 1 2019 7:13 PM

Perhaps the BeoLab is in Option 0, where it does not respond to IR commands.  If the BeoLab is in a room without any other B&O devices, it needs to be in Option 6.

To resolve this:

Turn both central B&O system and BeoLab to standby.

On the Beo4, press the POWER button and LIST together.  Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST twice to show L.OPT.  Then press 6.  The power light on the BeoLab may blink to show that it has been accepted.

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Fri, Feb 1 2019 10:04 PM

Thanks, I'll try that, but with option 4 as the units are in the same room.

Do I point the remote at the BL3500 for the setting or at the BS9000 (connected via beolink wireless 1)?

Cheers,

Johannes

Guy
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Guy replied on Fri, Feb 1 2019 10:22 PM

Point the remote at the BL3500.  And yes, in your setup Option 4 should be best.

I hope it works!

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Sat, Feb 2 2019 8:38 AM

Unfortunately it didn't work. I tried both with the remote in link mode and the regular one. I also teiwt acessacce the service menu, but no response.

RaMaBo
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RaMaBo replied on Mon, Feb 4 2019 11:50 AM

Hi,

 

if everything except IR works on you Beolab 3500 you should replace atleast one SMD capacitor on the Display Board.

See this post and read the thread :)

 

I had the same problem and it helped very well.

Ralph-Marcus

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Tue, Feb 5 2019 9:28 PM

Thanks a lot, I will try that!

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Tue, Feb 5 2019 9:28 PM

Thanks a lot, I will try that!

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Wed, Feb 13 2019 9:04 PM

Thanks again, replacing the cap worked! If anyone is having the same problem: if you don't want to unmount the plastic casing on the PCB you could probably fix it without doing so. The capacitor in question is all the way on the left side and one might just be able to do it with the plastic on. 

Removing the plastic requires de-soldering at least the LED and the photoresistor, better also the two IR receivers. The display is not soldered and can be pulled out of its socket

Teyelvis
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Teyelvis replied on Thu, Jan 28 2021 1:53 PM

Just email you. Need advise on how to replace the cap without removing the plastic. 

frog
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frog replied on Thu, Dec 30 2021 6:46 PM

Just to be clear, are we talking about this capacitor (the silver one in the middle of the photo)? I’m really not sure how you would un-solder then re-solder that one - even if I could get to it!

 

frog
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frog replied on Thu, Dec 30 2021 6:47 PM

Duplicate

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Thu, Jan 13 2022 9:19 PM

Yes it is that one, I'm afraid. I know I wrote, that it might be doable without removing the plastic stuff above, but I haven't tried it and I wouldn't recommend it if your not very used to soldering in tight spaces.

So the best (even if it is tedious) option is to remove the plastic cover by unsoldering the components that are threaded through it. Those are all through-hole components, so comparably easy to remove with standard tools. The display is just in some sort of socket

The capacitor in question is an SMD type. A bit tricky do desolder and best done with a hot air nozzle. Since it's broken anyway, I usually pry the aluminium can off the plastic base with a flat screwdriver and cut the leads. You can then cut/butcher the base with a wirecutter and clean up with soldering iron and wick. It's a bit brutal, but effective. As replacement I used a leaded capacitor. Much easier to solder, and there's plenty of space.

Good luck!

frog
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frog replied on Sat, Jan 29 2022 9:24 PM

thanks

frog
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frog replied on Sat, Jan 29 2022 9:25 PM

On taking the plastic off, I missed the fact that the red LED was still attached - so I need to put a new one in. Do you know what spec that would be?

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Sat, Jan 29 2022 10:05 PM

I did the same thing! I actually never replaced it, because it was the one for the timer and I never use the timer anyway. My guess (!) would be if you get any red LED with the right diameter it should be fine. 

frog
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frog replied on Sun, Feb 13 2022 2:13 PM

Yes, a 3mm LED did the job. due to the last one breaking, I didn't know what polarity the LED should be on the board, so I just took a 50:50 and got lucky! Iit isn't a big deal to reverse it if it isn't. unfortunately, I didn't log which was positive on the board though....

The capacitor though did do the job! 

JoDap
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JoDap replied on Sun, Feb 13 2022 9:13 PM

Congrats on getting it to work again!

For future reference: the long leg (anode, +) goes in the round hole, while the short leg of the LED (cathode, -)  that is on the flat side of the "bulb" goes in the square hole. 

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