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ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

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  • Re: BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

    Congrats on getting it to work again! For future reference: the long leg (anode, +) goes in the round hole, while the short leg of the LED (cathode, -) that is on the flat side of the "bulb" goes in the square hole.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sun, Feb 13 2022
  • Re: BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

    Congrats on getting it to work again! For future reference: the long leg (anode, +) goes in the round hole, while the short leg of the LED (cathode, -) that is on the flat side of the "bulb" goes in the square hole.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sun, Feb 13 2022
  • Re: BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

    I did the same thing! I actually never replaced it, because it was the one for the timer and I never use the timer anyway. My guess (!) would be if you get any red LED with the right diameter it should be fine.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sat, Jan 29 2022
  • Re: BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

    Yes it is that one, I'm afraid. I know I wrote, that it might be doable without removing the plastic stuff above, but I haven't tried it and I wouldn't recommend it if your not very used to soldering in tight spaces. So the best (even if it is tedious) option is to remove the plastic cover by unsoldering the components that are threaded through it. Those are all through-hole components, so comparably easy to remove with standard tools. The display is just in some sort of socket The capacitor
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Thu, Jan 13 2022
  • Re: Beosound 9000 Mk2 - PCB41 issue?

    Sorry, I can't provide an answer, but I have exactly the same problem with my Ouverture: Laser turns on and moves around, but in the motor spin test mode, the CD starts spinning clockwise for a second and then spins anticlockwise very fast. I tested also my BS 9000 (MK I) for reference: in TM 63 the disc spins clockwise in a typical speed for playback Please let me know if you find a solution
    Posted to General Discussion & Questions (Forum) by JoDap on Thu, Sep 3 2020
  • Re: BeoCenter 2300 dead after opening it

    Hi again, So I finally had time to open it up again. I found out what caused the blown fuse (squeezed a wire) but I couldn't identify the fuse yet. I'm not sure I'm looking for the right thing, because I expected one of those glass cylinder things. Here is a photo of the board and a close up of the area under the plastic cover Could anyone please mark on those photos where the fuse is? Or am I looking at the wrong board? EDIT: I found them :) For reference if anyone else is having the
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sat, Jul 4 2020
  • Re: BeoCenter 2300 dead after opening it

    Tusind tak! I'll check it out
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Wed, Feb 12 2020
  • Re: BeoCenter 2300 dead after opening it

    From a first look it seems that everything is as it should be. The only wire I had to detach is a ground wire (I suppose it's ground) that sits on one of the screws holding the wire pulleys. That one I connected again. But of course I can't be 100% sure. Could you please point me to the fuses so I can check them? Best regards Johannes
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sun, Feb 9 2020
  • BeoCenter 2300 dead after opening it

    Hi, I replaced the rubber belt that drives the glass doors on my BeoCenter 2300 (2616). I did it from the backside, so without unmounting any PCB. I even managed to not take the wires out: it turns out you can roll the rubber band through the cogs. Anyway, I wanted to test if it worked, so I plugged the unit in while the back cover and glass doors were still off. As it got power, the light around the CD drive lit up about 1 s and then all was off. Completely dead. I didn't notice any sparks or
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Sat, Feb 8 2020
  • Re: BeoLab 3500 IR receiver issue

    Thanks again, replacing the cap worked! If anyone is having the same problem: if you don't want to unmount the plastic casing on the PCB you could probably fix it without doing so. The capacitor in question is all the way on the left side and one might just be able to do it with the plastic on. Removing the plastic requires de-soldering at least the LED and the photoresistor, better also the two IR receivers. The display is not soldered and can be pulled out of its socket
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by JoDap on Wed, Feb 13 2019
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