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Integrating Beomaster 5500 and Beolink Passive

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styppen
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styppen Posted: Fri, Apr 17 2020 11:25 PM

Hi all,

 

I have a Beomaster 5500 in my living room. I’m considering putting a pair of CX50s in my kitchen and somehow connect them to Beomaster 5500.

I also like the Beolink Passive in a combination with a circular IR eye. I was hoping to enable/disable speakers in the kitchen and control the volume with the IR eye buttons.

 

Since Beolink Passive uses MasterLink I was wondering whether integrating them is possible. 

The way I understand Beomaster speaks Master Control Link (MCL) and Beolink Passive speaks MasterLink (ML) and you have to “translate” that.

Can this be achieved by using a Beolink Converter to translate MCL to ML? Then connect the Beolink Converter to the Beolink Passive ML?

 

The thing that also confuses is the audio signal level. In MCL the audio signal is at speaker level. I imagine this signal should be somehow attenuated to line level for the Beolink Passive.

I feel like I’m missing something out here and I would really appreciate some help.

 

 

Thanks

Steve at Sounds Heavenly
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Hi styppen,

Yes, this is possible!  You will need to find an MCL2AV link room box, the matching IR receiver (rectangular version) and some MCL cable to connect this to the Speaker 2 outlets of the Beomaster.  Your Passive amp can then plug into the MCL2AV with a fully wired Powerlink cable to run the extra speakers, with separate control of the mains system from the kitchen:-

https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html#/9-length-18m

Kind regards, Steve.

Steve.

www.soundsheavenly.com

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Sounds Heavenly are proud to sponsor BeoWorld!

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L Spad
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L Spad replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 9:52 AM

... or use a BeoLink 1611 converter to go from MCL to ML if you’re keen to use the BeoLink passive with the circular ‘eye’. Steve’s option will work out significantly cheaper I’d have thought. The only reason you might go this way is if you’d like to build a bigger ML based system over time e.g. adding a BeoVision to the mix at some point

good luck!

Guy
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Guy replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 9:55 AM

(For Steve's solution) If you don't already have a Beolink Passive, then consider buying an MCL2P amplifier instead.  This has basically the same functions, but with the advantage of having a 15v dc power output that is meant to power the MCL2AV - this saves having to find a separate power supply.

styppen
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styppen replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 12:53 PM

Hi Steve, thanks for your reply!

Is the rectangular IR receiver really necessary in this setup with MCL2AV? 

My wish is to have a Beolink Passive with the circular IR eye. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the way I understand, the IR eye controls the Passive amp. That means that by pressing PLAY button the Passive amp is turned on and whatever audio signal comes to the Powerlink input on the Passive would be played on the speakers in the Kitchen. Additionally, I would like to control the volume of the Passive amp in the kitchen with the volume buttons on the IR eye. I don't really need the timer functionality.

Now the question is, how is the audio signal sent to the Passive? One way is MCL2AV as you suggested and then connecting the Passive amp to the Powerlink output on the MCL2AV. Since the audio signal coming from Speakers 2 output is at speaker level, is the signal then attenuated in the MCL2AV to line level? This means that the audio signal coming out of MLC2AV Powerlink output is on line level?

I was also thinking about the preamp outputs on the Beomaster 5500. These are standard RCA/Phono outputs meant for power amplifier. This would mean that the signal in preamp outputs is line level. Could I use the preamp outputs on the Beomaster 5500 and use the triggered Powerlink cable from SoundsHeavenly and send line level audio signal to the Passive amp? This approach sounds to me like a bit of a hack and I would lose the MCL functionality but I would get the desired results.

styppen
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styppen replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 1:00 PM

L Spad :

... or use a BeoLink 1611 converter to go from MCL to ML if you’re keen to use the BeoLink passive with the circular ‘eye’. Steve’s option will work out significantly cheaper I’d have thought. The only reason you might go this way is if you’d like to build a bigger ML based system over time e.g. adding a BeoVision to the mix at some point

good luck!

I did some research on the Beolink Converter 1611. The device has three ports: TV/AUX (Datalink), Powerlink and Masterlink. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV/AUX Datalink port on the Beomaster 5500 is only an input. Right now I have a non-B&O TV connected to the TV/AUX input.

I am a bit confused as to how the Beolink Converter would be incorporated into the setup I am trying to achieve. Could you explain it in more details?

Guy
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Guy replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 1:39 PM

styppen:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV/AUX Datalink port on the Beomaster 5500 is only an input.

It's an output as well - you can check this for yourself if you look at the circuit diagram in the service manual. All 7 pins are connected.

styppen:
I am a bit confused as to how the Beolink Converter would be incorporated into the setup I am trying to achieve. Could you explain it in more details?

You connect the Beolink Converter 1611 to the BM5500 (TV/AUX socket) with a 7-pin A.AUX cable only.  Then run ML cable from the 1611 to the kitchen, where it would connect to the BL passive as an input.  Then connect the round 'hockey puck' IR sensor to the passive, and also connect your passive (CX50) speakers.  

Millemissen
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If the Aux-in is already engaged, you will have to use the suggestion from Steve = MCL (to a 2A) with a 2P or passive unit as amp.

The 1611 converter that you must use for driving a MasterLink bus (Passive kit with round ir-eye) needs the Aux connection to work.

This means - if you want to keep the 5500, you should use MCL.

If you want the option of having ML (maybe for further rooms), you must exchange your master and get one with built-in ML socket (the Aux there can then be used independently for your non-B&O tv).

MM

There is a tv - and there is a BV

L Spad
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L Spad replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 1:44 PM

The 1611 converter connects to the aux datalink socket on your beomaster 5500. You then can connect it to ML sources using the masterlink socket on the converter. The 1611 functions to convert the ML data language to the MCL language your beomaster 5500 speaks. I can see the problem if you are already using your aux input for a non B&O tv. The powerlink socket on the 1611 converter is purely there to allow ML devices to respond to button presses on your beomaster 5500 in certain option cases.

The two solutions offered differ slightly in cost but the fundamental difference is that if you use Steve’s solution you are sticking to the MCL system. I had a reasonably large MCL based system for a long time. It’s great in that it allows the use of 2 way controllers like the BeoLink 7000. It also benefits from allowing the addition of local sources via its 3 datalink inputs (see Steve’s great tutorial on connecting multiple beograms). Having said that MCL is old now and parts are becoming hard to find. in Steve’s suggestion the BeoLink passive is purely acting as a dumb amplifier - all of the control is handled by the mcl2av. That a means you must use the rectangular IR receiver - the circular one will not work in this setup (as far as I’m aware - you may be able to hack it)

The solution I suggested opens the door to a masterlink based system and makes use of the features of the BeoLink passive to control source selection as well as acting as the amplifier in your link room. This means you must use the circular IR receiver. All of the necessary cables and items are available frequently on eBay so it might be easier to get up and running via this route. From the original post I wasn’t aware your aux input was committed - you could connect the TV to the tape2 input?

Given that the passive is required for either solution the deciding factor is the relative cost and availability of an mcl2av, MCL cable and the rare and hard to find 4 pin speaker link connectors versus the cost of a 1611 converter and masterlink cable. Obviously Steve can supply all cables (thanks as ever for the great service Steve)

Forvthe record I’ve made extensive use of both options in my home setup  (at one point simultaneously - ML indoors and MCL in the garden). As far as I know these are the only two options that are ‘officially supported’ - you may be able to hack something but I imagine you’d spend a lot of time and effort for a less good outcome. Just my 2p

L Spad
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L Spad replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 1:49 PM

Sorry - my mistake - just remembered the 5500 Doesn’t have separate aux/tape 2 input as the 6500 and 7000 do. I upgraded from a 5500 to a 7000 a while ago and forgot the different inputs. As such Steve’s suggestion is likely your only viable solution 

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Here are the connections of the 5500.

With a 7000 it will be easier - as already suggested use the A.Tape 2 for the tv and the A.aux for the 1611 converter.

Or go the simple and low cost way of MCL....which should be fine for just one room.

MM

 

There is a tv - and there is a BV

styppen
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styppen replied on Sun, Apr 19 2020 6:25 PM

Thanks guys, I'm really happy with the response my question got. Things are a bit clearer right now!

I think I should clear the picture and describe my main setup:

  • Beomaster 5500
  • Beogram 1202 - connected to PHONO input
  • Sony TV - connected to TV/AUX input
  • Streamer - connected to CD input

This means I still have the TAPE input free. Given the fact that the TAPE also supports datalink, could I connect the Beolink Converter 1611 to this port? Would I achieve the same or does it have to be the TV/AUX port? Worst case scenario, I can connect the TV to TAPE input and the Beolink Converter to TV/AUX. 

I am in favour of going with the MasterLink solution because of the flexibility and the availability of the devices on the market. I was also thinking/hoping about incorporating the Beolink Wireless 1 at some point :). On the other side I also like the look of stackable components of the Beosystem 5500 so I am keen no keeping it as the main system.

Millemissen
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styppen:

 

  • Beomaster 5500
  • Beogram 1202 - connected to PHONO input
  • Sony TV - connected to TV/AUX input
  • Streamer - connected to CD input

 

This means I still have the TAPE input free. Given the fact that the TAPE also supports datalink, could I connect the Beolink Converter 1611 to this port? Would I achieve the same or does it have to be the TV/AUX port? Worst case scenario, I can connect the TV to TAPE input and the Beolink Converter to TV/AUX. 

Use the A.Tape for the tv and the A.Aux for the converter.

MM

Just connectvthe tv-input to the A.Tape instead....and you’ll have the A.Aux freed up for the converter 1611.

P.S. Don’t forget - Unplug everything from the mains before you install the converter etc.

And connect the converter to the mains as the last device in the chain.

MM

There is a tv - and there is a BV

styppen
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styppen replied on Mon, Apr 20 2020 12:00 PM

Millemissen:

Use the A.Tape for the tv and the A.Aux for the converter.

MM

Just connectvthe tv-input to the A.Tape instead....and you’ll have the A.Aux freed up for the converter 1611.

P.S. Don’t forget - Unplug everything from the mains before you install the converter etc.

And connect the converter to the mains as the last device in the chain.

MM

Ok, I'll plan to connect the TV to the A.TAPE input and the Beolink Converter to AUX link.

One more followup question regarding the Audio AUX Link. I checked the wiring diagrams and the AUX really has output audio signal. How does this work then? Whatever is playing on the main system (PHONO, RADIO, CD, etc.) the audio signal is then sent to the Beomaster power amplifier and also to the AUX link? 

 

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L Spad replied on Mon, Apr 20 2020 12:38 PM

That’s right - the audio is distributed from the aux output of the beomaster to the link rooms. Behaviour as follows:

1. selecting a source on the BeoLink passive will switch the beomaster to that source and start playing in the link room. If the beomaster is turned off then no sound will come out in the main room, just the link room.
2. If the beomaster is already playing in the main room the source will switch to whatever was selected in the link room and that source will play in both rooms. That means that you can’t listen to radio in the main room and the cd in the link room - only one source can play at a time. This is a limitation of all MCL2 system.

styppen
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styppen replied on Tue, Apr 21 2020 6:59 AM

Thanks, things are definitely more clear now. I was not aware of the Audio AUX Link and its features.

 

styppen
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styppen replied on Mon, May 4 2020 2:14 PM

I tried connecting Beolink Passive to my Beomaster 5500 and I'm having some issues.

Here's the setup:

Beomaster 5500 (TAPE2/AUX) ---- DataLink ---> Beolink Converter (1611) ---- MasterLink ----> Beolink Passive

When I plug the Beolink Passive into mains a green LED is lit inside the Passive and after a couple of seconds it goes to red. I assume this LED indicates standby mode. The PLAY LED on the IR eye is also turned on once Passive is plugged into mains.

I followed the procedure as described here on the forum and I plugged the Beolink Converter in mains as the last component.

Unfortunately, nothing happens when I press the PLAY button on the IR eye. Also if I turn on the Beomaster on whatever source, and press PLAY on the IR eye, still nothing comes out of the speakers connected to the Passive. The LED in the Passive chassis remains red.

I tried this setup on two separate Beomasters 5500 and I get the same result. There's no indicators on the Converter to determine whether the component is working.

Am I missing something? Doing something wrong?

Thanks for your help!

Guy
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Guy replied on Mon, May 4 2020 2:46 PM

Are you definitely using a 7 pin datalink/aux cable?

Guy
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Guy replied on Mon, May 4 2020 2:50 PM

And check that it is plugged into the converter’s TV/AUX socket, not powerlink

styppen
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styppen replied on Mon, May 4 2020 6:11 PM

I'm positive I'm using a 7 PIN DIN cable. Purchased it from Steve.

The cable is plugged in the TAPE2/AUX on the Beomaster 5500 and in AUDIO AUX LINK input on the Converter.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly
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Hi,

That should all be correct - which version of Beolink Converter are you using please (sorry if you mentioned it previously, I couldn't see it)?

Kind regards, Steve.

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styppen
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styppen replied on Mon, May 4 2020 9:23 PM

The converter is:

  • Beolink Converter EU
  • Type No: 1611
  • Item No: 1161166
  • SW: 1.3

This is my primary suspect. I have no way of knowing if it works or not.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly
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Thanks,

The converter is the correct one, however I agree that it looks to be the primary suspect at the moment until we know if it is working......

Kind regards, Steve.

Steve.

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Founder of Sounds Heavenly Cables and Brand Ambassador for Bang & Olufsen

Sounds Heavenly are proud to sponsor BeoWorld!

Please check out my YouTube channel at https://youtube.com/soundsheavenlycables

styppen
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styppen replied on Tue, May 5 2020 2:50 PM

Any ideas how to check if the existing Beolink Converter is actually working?

 

Millemissen
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styppen:

Any ideas how to check if the existing Beolink Converter is actually working?

 

Yes - try another Audiomaster, a BM6500/7000/4500..

MM

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Guy
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Guy replied on Tue, May 5 2020 3:58 PM

styppen:

Any ideas how to check if the existing Beolink Converter is actually working?

 

Maybe try disconnecting the converter from the 5500 and try using it as an audiomaster, as discussed in this and other threads: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/35644/264765.aspx#264765

 

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styppen replied on Tue, May 5 2020 8:11 PM

@MM, thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately, I don't have any other Beomasters at hand.

@Guy, I tried your suggestion. I used Steve's DIN to 3.5mm cable and still no sound from the speakers.

I disassembled the Beolink Converter and check if there's anything fishy going on. I found a voltage regulator element and measured its input and output voltage. The input voltage is 0.3V and the output voltage is 0.2V. With my limited knowledge I've established that this is not correct since input voltage should be higher than 5V and the output voltage should be 5V.

I'm ruling this Beolink Converter as faulty. I don't have the knowledge to further troubleshoot and fix this problem. I'll try to find another Beolink Converter. Unless someone has any other suggestions :).

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styppen replied on Thu, May 14 2020 6:54 PM

Hi

I'm still working on getting my configuration up and running. Last week, I ruled out that my Beolink Converter 1611 is faulty. I managed to find a replacement and just received it today.

I tried the setup with the Beolink Converter as an Audio master to keep things simple.

I connected it to the Passive and Converter via ML cable. After powering on the system (converter plugged in as last) the green LED inside the Passive is lit up and after a couple of seconds it changes to red. Additionally, LED at PLAY button is lit when Passive is powered. I assume system is in stand by mode at that point.

I tried fiddling with the IR eye and I found out the following.

  • When TIMER button is pressed, TIMER LED is lit
  • When pressing PLAY button, nothing happens. I would expect that the Passive should turn on and that green light in the chassis is turned on.
  • When pressing UP/DOWN buttons, nothing happens.
  • The PLAY LED blinks when I change the configuration via OPTION programming. I tried all supported options and nothing happens. The PLAY LED also blinks when buttons UP and DOWN on the Beo4 are pressed.

I hooked the IR eye to an Arduino and managed to communicate with the I2C chip. I was able to confirm that all buttons are working. Also the IR receiver is in working condition.

At this point I don't know how to proceed. But I'm my primary suspect now is Beolink Passive. I checked the manuals for Passive and I found nothing of help. Does someone have any ideas what I could try?

styppen
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styppen replied on Sun, May 17 2020 6:52 PM

Anyone?

The guy who sold me the Beolink Passive vouched that the Passive is full working conditions. I would at least expect that the Passive turns on when PLAY button is pressed on the IR eye. 

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Guy replied on Sun, May 17 2020 7:59 PM

There is a test mode on the Passive:

On your remote, press MENU 0 3 PLAY

This should switch the unit on and open the ML signal path - basically amplifying anything that it is receiving over ML.

Pressing STOP should close the path and turn the Passive off.

See what happens if you try the above with and without the ML connection.

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styppen replied on Mon, May 18 2020 7:38 AM

Hi Guy, thanks for this tip.

I tried what you suggested. Again, I used a setup with Beolink Converter as Audio Master. I plugged an iPod into the Converter via 5 pin DIN since it was at hand.

When I entered the suggested command the Beolink Passive did in fact turn on. LED in the housing went from red to green. Yay, progress! 

Unfortunately, there was no sound coming from the speakers even though music was playing on the iPod. I also tried connecting 7 pin DIN cable from the Beomaster and still no sound. When in test mode, whenever I press any button on the Beo4, the Passive goes out of test mode and the red LED is lit again.

What's the chance of the ML cable being faulty?

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Guy replied on Mon, May 18 2020 8:20 AM

That sounds promising - I understand that this is the correct behavior of the Passive - so it could be fully working.

Are you sure that the ipod to 5-pin DIN was feeding into an input (rather than output)? - there is often confusion with these cables.  You could also try feeding it direct to one of the passives Powerlink inputs (disconnect the ML first), and then do the Test Mode trick again.  Keep the ipod's volume low initially.

styppen:
What's the chance of the ML cable being faulty?

Given that you have virtually ruled out anything else, this could well be the problem.  Check for dirt, damaged connector inside the ML sockets on the passive and converter, and also look for damage to connectors on the ML plugs.  If all looks good, buy and try a new cable - our site sponsor, Sounds Heavenly, does some good ones at reasonable prices. 

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styppen replied on Mon, May 18 2020 11:00 AM

Guy:

Are you sure that the ipod to 5-pin DIN was feeding into an input (rather than output)? - there is often confusion with these cables.  

Not sure what you mean here. I connected the 5-pin DIN to AUDIO AUX LINK input on the Beolink Converter and then from Converter to the Passive via Masterlink cable. I checked the Audio AUX link wiring diagram on Beotech and verified the pins and this seems to be in order. I'm using the same cable to use my iPod with my Beomaster 5500 (plugged to A.TAPE). Got the cable from Steve so I think the cable is not a problem.

Guy:

You could also try feeding it direct to one of the passives Powerlink inputs (disconnect the ML first), and then do the Test Mode trick again.  Keep the ipod's volume low initially.

Another good tip! I tried that and I could finally hear something coming out from Passive! So it looks like Passive is in working condition.

I am still not 100% certain that the Beolink Converter works. It's really annoying that there's no indicators on the box :(. I checked the ML cable and visually it looks good. Same for the ML connectors on the Converter and Passive. Can't really verify if the ML cable is wired properly since I don't have other ML devices at home. 

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Guy replied on Mon, May 18 2020 12:27 PM

^ That all makes sense, and the DIN cable sounds fine.

I think your next step is to try a new ML cable.

styppen
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styppen replied on Tue, May 19 2020 7:39 AM

Managed to get a hold of a triggered Powerlink cable in hope that this will somehow work.

Unfortunately, still not working. I'm still not able to turn the Passive on with the IR eye or with Beo4. I'm only able to hear something on the speakers when Passive is in test mode. 

Is there something like a hard reset of the Passive? 

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Guy replied on Tue, May 19 2020 8:47 AM

I am totally not sure what you mean by a triggered powerlink cable.  

I presume it is artificially supplying power to pin 1 of the input PL socket?  If so, neither ML nor the IR should be connected to the Passive, as it is just operating as a stand alone amp. 

There is no 'hard reset' - and I still think an alternative ML cable is worth a try.

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styppen replied on Tue, May 19 2020 8:59 AM

Yeah the triggered powerlink cable supplies 5V to the PL trigger pin. I thought the amp could still be operated by IR eye in that mode.

At this point I suppose I could try with a different ML cable but I'm exhausted by this Passive and I sort of lost the motivation. I was hoping things would be just plug and play not plug and pray.

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Guy replied on Tue, May 19 2020 9:22 AM

styppen:
I thought the amp could still be operated by IR eye in that mode.

No, when using the Powerlink inputs the Passive because a dumb amplifier.

 

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styppen replied on Sat, May 23 2020 7:59 PM

I contacted local B&O dealer today and they loaned me one of their ML cables. 

To my demise, still no sound on Passive via Masterlink. I am completely lost as to how continue from this point.

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Guy replied on Sun, May 24 2020 2:20 PM

styppen:

I contacted local B&O dealer today and they loaned me one of their ML cables. 

To my demise, still no sound on Passive via Masterlink. I am completely lost as to how continue from this point.

Can your dealer loan you a passive, or maybe test your passive with one of their systems? 

The other thing you could try is an Beolink Active.  Use this to receive the ML signal and the IR, then connect to the Passive with Powerlink.  In effect, the Beolink Active would be replacing the ML stage of the Passive.

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