ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
the platter is turning in the wrong Direction!
I finished it tonight and I must have put a cap reversed or something. I did one at a time but I may have did something wrong. I notice as I turned on the power strip on the table was already on without me pushing the power button on and was going backwards. I will go back and double check everything with schematics. I also hear a slight hum when I turned on the power strip.
All the LED are now on so that is working now.
Has this happened to anyone here?
Any advice or info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
One of my Beogram 8002 turntable projects was doing that. There are a number of things you have to go through and check on those turntables (BG 8000 being very similar to the BG 8002). Those old decks often require more than just a recap. The board connectors often need to have the solder joints reflowed. Sometimes other components need reflowed solder joints. First though, just double-check that all of the connectors are connected properly.
Before you did the recap, was the turntable non-functional or was it turning okay?
Hi sonavor,
The BG 8000 was not working when I bought it. I received the recap kit from Dillen and started the repair. I will go back and double check the connections.
I removed and resoldered all the connectors on the main PCB. I replaced all the caps even the one inside the with the Microprocessor.
I must have did something wrong. I will look again.
On the smaller board with the microprocessor there are some components (i.e. film capacitors) that have some solder points on the trace side and some solder points on the component side of the board. Make sure you examine that part thoroughly.
One more thing....if you post some detailed pictures of your repair, other sets of eyes here on the forum might be able to spot something you are missing.
Check your connector solders with a magnifying glass. You may have a solder bridge.
It happened to me, however cautious I was!
Jacques
I will check those pcbs again. Also My digital camera is not working properly and it will not focus in close to the PCB that's why I haven't posted pictures. I will try to get some posted soon. Sorry about this.
I did get some bridges while soldering and had to remove them after I view with a magnifying glass. I will recheck again. A few of the cable came out of the connector that goes to the Microprocessor. I reconnected them and had to really push down in the connector to make sure they were secure in the connector. I did make sure the cable were in properly.
Hi Chartz,
I forgot to mention that I haven't installed the new tachodisc I got form Dillen as to just see if the unit would just power up. Would a bad tachodisc cause the platter to spin baclwards? since I heard some hum and from what I have been reading in the archieves about bad tachodisc causing the drive to hum. Could this maybe bethe cause? I didn't want to change out to many things at once but I will change that out and see if that fixes the problem. Also I only saw 00.00 in the display when I plug it in to the ac outlet. The original problem was no power, nothing else worked except for the sensor arm light and the last far right display blinking a Reversed "C" in the lower segment.
I have the service manual but is there anything I should know before I try to replace the tachodisc? The service manual seems straight forward but I have learned from experience there are always some sort of little trick/info that is left out and I dont want to break or mess anything else up more.
I will try to see if I can get that digital camera to focus in so I can show some pics of what I'm working on.
last night I was looking at the PCB again and didn't see any solder bridges or broken/cracked traces. What I did find was the display accidently came loose and when I went to put it back I notice there were a lot of really bad soldering on some joint pads. Also there were some not even soldered. I will resolder the bad ones and double to see if the ones that are not soldered are supposed to be.
So starting today I will desolder and resolder all the solder joints in this BG8000. The soldering and solder used to me was not of good quality so the only way to make sure is to redo everything again. I will also resolder all the components again inside with the MPU and reseat the MPU itself.
After all the resoldering is done and if there are still issues I will start the troubleshooting. Only then I will know all the solder joints are of good quality and making a secure contact, just one thing less to worry about
I will try get some pics up on the forum.
Waiting for the pictures then!
here's what I found today on the tonearm cable PCB going to the DIN plug. The Lower Blue and Grey wire were shorted.
Here's the main PCB. I'm half ways through resoldering it.
New Tachodisc. The old one was still in original form but I know what will eventually happen. Original had a oily substance on it between the spindle hub. How close does the Tachodisc sensor need to be to the spindle hub?
So far the platter still rotates counter clockwise and now the hum is louder than before. the display is still showing 0000. LED on sensor arm led is lit also.
I will finish off the resoldering, then dive into the MPU next.
You can see on my old thread of a BG8002 repair that I also encountered a platter rotating the wrong direction. I jumped through a lot of hoops on that project before I got it under control (including a couple of wild goose chases I put myself through). It was worth it as I use that turntable almost everyday now. I haven't had any problems with it since the repair (other than I still need to resolder the drivers for the display).
-sonavor
Hi Sonavor,
I was looking at that tread late last week but missed some stuff so I was going back and taking my time reading through it again. Hopefully I don't have to go through all that.
I'm going to start on the MPU resoldering all the connections. Hopefully this will take care of the issue/s. I'm also thinking of soldering the ribbon cable from the MPU directly to the main PCB. cause in reality, these may become bad contacts again in that type of connector. I will only be doing that at the end when I'm finished repairing the table.
I did redo the soldering on all the connectors, so they are really nice good solder joints now.
I will try to post back my results and some pics.
Also, check track continuity, they are very thin and fragile. Sometimes, there is a crack just at the edge of the solder joint and you can't see it, even with a thread counter. Just to make sure.
I had that on a Beogram 6006 I fixed, after an aborted restoration (all the capacitors were new, but the repair hadn't solved the problem).
By the way, I have a BG 8000 that still has all its original components and it works perfectly!
Well, after a few months of my Beogram operation fine and after listening to a few records my BG 8000 platter just stop functioning. The arm moves out to the LP and drops where it's supposed to when the play button is pushed but no platter rotation. If I spin it by hand and try to push play nothing but if i press stop I can see and hear the the motor drive system stopping the platter. so there is power getting there. I suspect the the ribbon cables again. So this weekend I will open up the table again and find/fix the problem. If it does turn out to be the cables again I will remove the hard solder the ribbon cable into the PCB. Don't want to be addressing this issue ever few months or years.
I just got my BO Beogram 8000 fine tuned in and it was playing/sounding amazing! just weird how one LP finished and put another one on the platter and cleaned the needle then pushed play.....nothing! No growling from th motor for start up. Good thing I bought a second one that was in good condition too just for this reason as a back up.
While I'm in there I will fix the relay mute issue, look into that arm dropping speed, and reconfig the tonearm wires so there is NO common grounding between the return lines so to have ZERO hum. I have so far reduced it to a very low point but with new configuration I will make it balanced to the Balance SUT's. should be dead quiet then.