ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi,
I recently bought a Beomaster 4500, the bloke wanted $750 AUD (I told him he was dreamin') I negotiated it for $300 AUD, which I think was a good price. After a'fixing the glass touch panel back down with some Araldite, I realised that after it had dried the preset radio stations 0 and 1 must have lifted as it dried (not that I'll probably use the radio much). Now I can't get any response from them. Hopefully I can open it up and prop the circuit board up a tiny bit in the middle to make contact with the glass, but that's a side issue. I'm just throwing that out in case anyone has an opinion on if it's possible from dismantling from the back. (I also downloaded the service manual)
I'm still waiting for DIN connectors to come in the post but I'm also wondering is there any way to switch from FM to AM bands without the remote? I really don't want to buy/pay for a remote, and to be honest I probably won't use AM anyway. I haven't seen any really comprehensive guide for programming the unit, but it seems to be stuck on FM.
Also, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on how long the device will last. I assume the solid state transistors will last pretty much forever, however has anyone had any problems with the capacitors being old? It was made in 1988 (two years before I was born). In saying that the model I have is rated for european 220V and in Aus we use 240V, but that would likely be within the tolerance.
I've never seen exposed transformer coils in my life, very strange, must be for better cooling, does the Beomaster get particularly hot?
Now I'm going to save up for a Pro-ject DC turntable to complete my system, which from what I've read online seems to be the best quality for money turntable. Although, I'm not sure how to ground the bloody thing, because the Beomaster doesn't have a ground terminal on it...
Cheers for thoughts!
You can rewire the trafo to 240V... it is described in the service manual, very easy, just a matter of moving 1 or 2 wires..
/Weebyx
Ah cool!
Thanks, I think I will when I get a chance.
You don't have any other thoughts regarding AM/FM? (or anything else)
Cheers
The 4500 is a classic beauty. I, too, have one but rarely use it. While you don't want to buy a remote, it really is a good investment. Most of us who own a 4500 try to use the remote as much as possible and to refrain from touching the unit any more than necessary in order to prolong it's life. Even a BeoLink 1000 would suffice and can be found quite inexpensively.
What is the software version on your 4500? If it is one of the later software versions, you can even get a 2-way remote. The BeoLink 7000 remotes can be quite pricey, but it's nice to know if you have that option. A cheaper option would be to find a MCP 6500 table-top remote. These, too, an be quite inexpensive. Note that the 6500 remote will only work with a BeoMaster 4500 if it has 2-way remote capability.
The touch panel has rubber sensors underneath and probably when you put the panel back, a couple went a bit off center. The plastic holder for the glass actually slides off. I haven't done it for ages but there is a hole that you stick a pin or end of a paper clip and whilst pushing it you slide the glass to the left and it comes out. Then you can try and make sure all the rubbers are too bent then the glass slides back and clicks into place. Its really quick and easy.
Thanks for the reply,
How do I tell which software version the software is?(Also, what is 2 way capability?)
I'm a young father (looking for a graduate eng job, so currently unemployed) and my wife won't be happy if I spend ~$80 on a remote control. I can't imagine using the panel buttons would decease it's life, they seemed like just rubber knobs, quite peculiar actually.
I was thinking of having the TVPC or monitor (audio jack to RCA to DIN) being plugged into the Beomaster for the lions share of it's use, and control the volume via the PC.
Thanks
In reply to BenSA,
[You commented before I finished posting mine]
Ah that is interesting, so that will slide the whole plastic housing off? (Because I really glued the glass onto the plastic well)
If so I'll be able to prop the circuit board up a touch, I'm sure they're not bent, because I put the glass down flat equally on the whole thing.
They easily go out of touch with the top panel. Once you slide the glass the whole board will come out with it. You can even unclip the wires and it will make it easy to put the glass. Then you can put a thin screwdriver between the glass and the board to make sure they rubber contacts are well positioned. Quite easy.