ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Yesterday I tried to connect my BL8000´s to use them as surrounds in my new apartment, just like I used them in my old apartment. However, even if I got sound I also got a lot of buzzing. I am using a BeoVision Avant 55" and send the signal over the cat6 cabling in the walls. And a CAT/RJ45 to DIN-adapter where the Beolabs are placed. I didn't understand why at first but I soon realized that the cabling in the walls are of the unshielded Cat6 utp standard and not shielded/foiled cat6 stp/ftp. I guess my only solution would be to replace the cables and connectors in the walls and patch-box with shielded cables(?).
Beolab 50, Beolab 8000 x 2, Beolab 4000 x 2, BeoSound Core, BeoSound 9000, BeoSound Century, BeoLit 15, BeoPlay A1, BeoPlay P2, BeoPlay H9 3rd Gen, BeoPlay H6, EarSet 3i, BeoVision Eclipse Gen 2 55", BeoPlay V1-40, BeoCom 6000 and so much else :)
Or use WISA Transmission for wireless integration?
Ralf
Living Room: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-2 (Center), Beolab 9 (Fronts), Beolab 8000 (Rears), no Subwoofer. Screen: Sony KD-85XH9096Dining Room: Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 4000 on stands, fed by Amazon Echo Show 8Home Cinema: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-4 (Center), Beolab 1 (Fronts), Beolab 4000 (Rears). Projector: Sony VPL-HW55Home Office: Beosystem 3, Beolab 7-4, Beolab 5000, Screen: Sony KD-55XH9005 on Beovision 7-40 stand, ML to Beosound 9000 MK3 and Beosound 5/Beomaster 5 (1 TB SSD version)Bedroom: Sony KD-65XH9077, Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 6002 and Beolab 11 (all white, wall-mounted)
In storage: Beolab 5000/Beomaster 5000 (1960s).
kallasr: Or use WISA Transmission for wireless integration? Ralf
Quite possible if I buy two WISA receivers but since most people complains about how much problems WISA introduces I want to stay off that track for now. It would also add costs, boxes and more reliability issues to the setup. I think it would be easier to replace the cable in the wall, but then I should probably replace all of them. I was a bit surprised that it seems to need shield but this might be a requirement to remove noise in the cable since the signal is analog I presume.
rob08:I tried an unshielded cat6 between bv11 and Beolab 25 sub and it also made buzzing sounds. Got a shielded cat7 from dealer and no buzz. I guess it needs to be shielded.
Then it´s probably it. I´ll try a shielded cable before I change the cabling in the walls. The shielded cables are so much thicker and harder to pull through the walls. Especially when every pair of cables is shielded separately (as in CAT7). Some of them also has a plastic cross in the cable to keep the wires aligned and away from each other. They are thick and stiff like gardening hoses :D.
I would just get a couple of ferrite magnet coils that grip to over the cables before i run to get new cables just yet. But yes, the no shielding is most likely your problem.
Ah, you know... A little B&O here, a little there
BeoMegaMan: I would just get a couple of ferrite magnet coils that grip to over the cables before i run to get new cables just yet. But yes, the no shielding is most likely your problem.
I don't think ferrite magnet coils is a good way to solve it but I wonder if I might use a spare pin on the cable as ground perhaps? If there are any. As far as I can see there is only five pins utilized in PowerLink MK3 (ground as shield, left and right signals, power on signal, system mass (what)).
MK2 uses all eight pins but one of them is still shield. A Cat5/5e/6 cable etc has eight pins + possible shielding. MK1 only uses ground (shield), signal left and right and switching voltage. Perhaps I could try to connect it all over pins only? And anyone know what "system mass" is or "mass data line". MK2 has an additional data line which I suppose transmits the data for display on Pentas. A pity this can't be used with new systems.
By the way, does anyone have a pin out description of the Powerlink RJ45 ports on BeoVision Avant? I would need this to make a cable adaptor to move the shield to a pin.
Quoting a Wikipedia article regarding the ferrite cores: "If absolutely necessary, insert isolating transformers in problematic signal lines.". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) it is a pity that shielded cables seems necessary for PL over CAT since they are so much more expensive and rarely used now except for in CAT7 installations. For example Cat6A is usually UTP due to the risks of grounding problems and electrical missmatches between different power sources.
I think this is a very interesting issue. For one it is important to take into account that CAT-cables can have several kinds of shields. For example a braided shield or just a shield foil that differs quite a lot. Some uses a drain wire. Some has shields over every pair of pairs inside the cable. I would believe it would affect the sound in different ways since it could interfere with impedance etc. And cause different amounts of noise.
Re-pinning won't take care of the problem as the problem is the interference the cable is picking up from outside. Without the proper shielding around the cable you are going to pick up that interference still. Again, I would go the ferrite route first as the inexpensive/easy solution, or just rip the cords out and replace them.
BeoMegaMan: Re-pinning won't take care of the problem as the problem is the interference the cable is picking up from outside. Without the proper shielding around the cable you are going to pick up that interference still. Again, I would go the ferrite route first as the inexpensive/easy solution, or just rip the cords out and replace them.
I am not so sure, since the cable adaptor I've been using now doesn't have a connected ground/shield at all due to the lack of shielding in the wall. I can always try the solution with a homemade patch cable first. Perhaps shielding is very necessary but I know that you can run XLR-cables (that is almost the same thing) over CAT-cables using a few pins for ground instead. Maybe it is easier just to buy regular powerlink cable and run it through the wall otherwise? Its such a thin cable compared to for example CAT 7 that is extremely expensive as well.