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When my newest addition to my B&O family arrived [Beolab 5000], I noticed that the two lamps flickered with the music when the volume was at 4-5 and I asked Soren about this.
Soren said I should post this as a question of the forum as he didn't know why this was happening, as it didn't happen when he tested the Beolab.
Soren felt "something was drawing too much power," so what do you guys think?
Also when the power button is depressed there is a rather loud THUMP in the speakers. It seems to me that I read on another thread that the Beomaster 4400 also did this, but it was of no concern.
Frankly, I was kind of pleased that my own 4400 didn't exhibit this particular trait.
Anyway, I am most interested in the flickering lights to see if it means anything needs attention. I really don't want to do anything that might damage this wonderful amp.
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
The same thump I have in my BM 4400, its a little annoying but I understand that it is quiet normal, what I do is, turning down the volume before turning on the BL. The volume of the thump is the same on the BM 4400 as on the BL (same speakers connected)
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Søren Mexico:The same thump I have in my BM 4400
Hi Soren,
I sort of figured that was the case. Yea, it is annoying, but over all, who cares? If it is not a problem how much trouble is it to turn the volume down before turning on the Beolab?
Again, thanks for the help with the Beomaster 5000 Tuner. Much appreciated!
Hi,
At a conceptual level, the answer to your flickering light problem is kind of the same as the reason you get hotter water in the shower when someone else in the house flushes a toilet. Basically, the problem is that, if you're going to share, you're going to have to make a sacrifice. Your lights and your loudspeaker's amplifier are supplied with current (or electrons) in parallel - they share electricity from the same source. If the "pipe" that is supplying them is not big enough (in other words, if the wire has too high a resistance) then, when the amplifier demands a lot of current, it will rob it from the lights. The louder your music, the more current the amplifier needs, and the more it steals from the lights.
The more physical explanation of this involves a discussion of the resistance of the mains wire that runs from your circuit breaker to the point where the wire splits between feeding the lights and feeding the amplifier. If you have 110 V RMS at the circuit breaker and you have a resistance in the wire that is more than 0 ohms, then the more current you pull through it, the the lower the voltage level at the point where the wire splits. (For example, if the resistance of that wire is 2 Ohm, and your amplifier+lights are "pulling" 3 amps, then you will get 104 V RMS at the input to the lights and the amplifier because 110 - 2 x 3 = 104.) The higher the demand for current by the amplifier, the lower the voltage supplying the lights - and therefore they will get dim. If the current demand varies over time (for example, with the music signal) then the lights will flicker in sync as a result.
The good news is that, until you blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker, this is not a problem for your lights.
Interestingly, this also means that the voltage supply to the amplifier also varies. However, if this causes the audio signal to degrade, then this means that the power supply of your amplifier has not been properly designed. (Anecdotally, I once heard a story that indicates that this issue is probably one of the historical and weird, but REAL reasons that people have an allergy to jitter in digital signals - but that story belongs in a different forum thread...)
If you want to eliminate the problem, the cheapest solution is to supply the amplifier and the lights from two different circuits (e.g. two different fuses or circuit breakers). The expensive solution is to re-wire your house with bigger wires - which I would not recommend... Of course, another solution, albeit impractical, is to listen to music in the dark.
It may also be interesting to note that this effect might be more noticeable with LED's than with old-fashioned incandescent lights (depending on the circuitry feeding the LED). This is because LED's can react much more quickly than a hot piece of tungsten can change temperature. So, it might be that incandescent lights would be dimmer, but constantly dimmer whereas an LED will flicker - but this is really dependent on many things - so it might not be the case. However, it does mean that, if you are noticing the problem with an LED bulb, then changing the bulb to a different model or brand MIGHT solve the problem, since it MIGHT have a different power supply design with different time constants.
Cheers-geoff
Geoff, I think Jeff is talking about the lamps in the Beomaster, not in the room.
But your explanation is true anyway but related to the internal power supply.
My BM900 is doing the same, the lamps get flickering darker with increasing volume even though it has an internal power stabilisation.
A lot of vintage stuff has fluctuation on the internal power supply on heavy output volumes.
But who am I to tell you that
hx
Well I feel stupid... Now that I read it again, of course that's what Jeff means...
I guess that means that my suggestion of listening in the dark will only make things worse... Normally, I listen with my eyes closed, so I don't notice flickering lights.
Sorry for the spam, everyone...
I've had devices where a turn on thump or pop was due to either a grounding issue (in one case a bad solder joint) and at times a capacitor in the power supply going bad. I had a Proton clock radio that developed substantial "Pop" on turn on that fixed itself after I moved it to the work bench, something inside was not making good contact and getting bumped around seemed to fix the issue.
Do the speakers pop on turn on if the signal cables are not attached to them?
I'm afraid I'm recovering from the BeoVirus.
Geoff Martin: Well I feel stupid... Now that I read it again, of course that's what Jeff means...
Hi Geoff,
I'll admit that you REALLY had me going. I read every word with enormous interest..... and growing concern. However I can, indeed, confirm that I meant the lamps on the Beolab rather than the lights in the room.
This is a fairly new restoration and as such, there is always teething pains.
I had an issue with the Beomaster 5000 in that there was considerable binding in the center of the tuner dial and a scraping noise. This "problem" was sufficient that the tuning knob was useless, forcing the use of a hand to move the frequency selector. No big deal just a little filing on the 2 screws and the rivet on the back side of the selector and problem solved. Everything should be so easy!
So why are the lamps ON the Beolab flickering with the music? Is it an "issue" and if so what needs to be done about it?
The Beolab sounds too good for me to have serious concerns, however I was genuinely surprised to see such a pronounced flickering at the 4 or 5 level.
If EVER to do anything with electronics that causes my house light to dim, I will have a far more serious problem than a questionable stereo. Thanks Geoff, that was a good laugh to start the day! (I laughed, anyway.)
Guys,
This Beolab 5000 is a BIG deal to me, so kindly forgive the over abundance of caution on my part.
I have the house to myself for the first time since the BL/BM arrived. Soren said he played this Beolab at "8" with no flickering of the lamps. Honestly, I don't know how he did that as I topped-out at "6" and that is as loud as I could enjoy the music, also of Soren's suggestion: Bette Midler's "Its all about the Girls" album.
I figure that basically if the sound quality is OK then one is not pressing an amp beyond its limits, BUT the Beolab has no overload protection like the Beomaster4400, or at least I haven seen anything about such protection.
What I am saying in my clumsy manner is yes, I want to test my new acquisition by put it through its paces, BUT I don't want to break it in doing so.
At "6" the sound quality is very good, very good indeed, and the amp is not running especially hot. However the power lamp and Stereo lamp really flicker with the bass notes.
It occurs to me that the flickering lamps might well be part of the break-in process, but I don't know this, it is only a guess.
I look forward to your input on this flickering. In the mean time I am going to run the Beolab for half a day at different volume levels, while keeping note of the heatsinks.
Jacques
Hi Jacques,
I know I can always count on you..... thank you.
I tried the "trick" that worked on the Beomaster 4400, that is turn the volume to zero and you avoid the THUMP. As you undoubtedly already know, this "trick" doesn't work on the Beolab. However I am very glad to learn that it is normal. (I thought it might be.)
As promised, (by you) the sound is very, very good. I am still not ready to say it is the "best" sound quality, but I am getting close to being able to say that. And it is not that the Beolab plays a new recording like the Bette Midler album well, which it does. But I also hear notes I never heard before from my much enjoyed AKAI 8-Track Recorder, which I find more remarkable than playing a LP well.
Also, unless I am mistaken (This is difficult to prove) I believe the Beolab produces a LOT more volume than the Beomaster 4400, or at least my crippled version thereof.
As you must have learned by now, I enjoy loud music (I think it is a character flaw). I routinely listened to the 4400 just at the edge of the overload lamp flashing. However with the Beolab I tried higher volumes as Soren said he played this Beolab at 8, but I have not attempted that...... becuase it hurts. 6 on phono is about as loud as I can appreciate, 5.5 on tape.
Back to the lamps, they really do flicker above 4, especially with bass notes. I don't think this is a "real" problem, but I wish they didn't do this.
Anyway, I believe the Beolab is still "sorting out" as all restorations do and I am growing used to it..... and so far, I AM impressed.
I dont know if this can have any influence on the BL and the flickering. Jeff did you ever check your power supply house line, I have here between 130 and 135 Volts coming in. and have no flickering on other devises like BM 4000, 4400. 1000, 901
All help and advice is appreciated and useful. This is Canada, boringly dependable and that would most definitely include electric service.
I like "dimmed" lights so I have dimmer virtually all over the house: bathrooms, hallways, living room, media room..... you get the idea. And dimmers are SUPER sensitive to drops in voltage, if set low enough, they stay off until turned back on again, so I am very certain that voltage (either low or inconsistent) is not the problem.
I played the Beolab all day yesterday and today as well. It is playing right now as I type. It plays BEAUTIFULLY which is a tribute to your dedicated workmanship. Ditto the Beomaster 5000, which is a total delight.
If, as you said, you played the Beolab at 8 and the lamps didn't flicker, then clearly something happened in transit. Right now anything above 4 causes the red ON lamp as well as the green STEREO lamp to flicker.
At 5 the flicker becomes more pronounced. At 6 the lamps actually go out completely (briefly). As you said you took the Beolab to 8 to tired but at 6.5 it actually hurt my ears and you know that I LOVE LOUD music.Honest Soren, I don't know how you could have listened to this Beolab at 8.
As the Beolab has replaced my ailing Beomaster 4400, it is now a part of my daily extensive exercise program, so I get a lot of up close time where I can watch the Beolab and see all the flickering.
In truth..... and you know me, I will be honest, I find the flickering annoying, it grabs attention where it shouldn't, BUT it is not something I can't live with. Live comes with compromise and I really LIKE this Beolab!
The way I see it, the PSU regulator must be faulty. If the lamps get dim, the PSU rail drops too. I'm afraid the Beolab will have to be opened and some measurements will be necesssary to make a clear diagnostic. Is the amp completely silent, hiss aside, when there is no music and you put up the volume cursor ? Try this on phono please.
Your question calls for a slightly subjective answer, but none the less, below 6 the amp is absolutely silent on phono. Above that level there is a slight HISS. At the 10 level the HISS is apparent, but not loud.
I am not technically oriented (as you know) like you, so all I have to compare is the Beomaster 4400 which had a distinctive HUM for months before it died. Not the same sound in any way.
Does that answer your question?
Please know there is no one qualified on Vancouver Island to work on vintage electronics. I am more than ready to try to make repairs myself with some real HAND-HOLDING, but if testing exceeds what one might expect from a rank amateur, then it will need to be sent off for repair.
Having nothing to do with your question, but the USPS lost my Beomaster 1600 for over a week in Menlo Park, California. The Beomaster 1000 was delivered, but with the box torn open. The 1600 just arrived about 20 minutes ago..... so I am not very enthusiastic about shipping the Beolab internationally. But I will if I must.
In any case, THANK YOU for the information.
I do not know if this makes a difference, but I didn't say the lamps dimmed, they go out completely. This is a flicker so they don't "turn off" but they do turn off completely for a second with heavy bass notes.
Also the STEREO lamp is more sensitive than the POWER lamp, for whatever reason.
Shrug.
chartz:The way I see it, the PSU regulator must be faulty. If the lamps get dim, the PSU rail drops too. I'm afraid the Beolab will have to be opened and some measurements will be necesssary to make a clear diagnostic.
Am I best advised NOT to use this Beolab until this regulator matter is corrected? I would not want to damage it.
I tried tapping "lightly" on all four corners and nothing, the lamps steady. So I tried tapping harder all over, again nothing. Not wanting to miss an "opportunity" to find a solution I POUNDED as hard as I dared on the Beolab, nada. Lastly I did a Conga drum number on the table the Beolab sit upon, and once again, the lamps are steady.
Frustrating and disappointing, but at least you feel it is safe to use.
On a more positive note, and strictly as an aside, the USPS found my missing Beomaster 1600 which arrived really late, but undamaged. I don't know why I like that amp so much, as it really isn't a very good amp and the mechanical design is an absolute cauchemar, but the design is stunning.
Back to the subject at hand, so where do "we" go from here? It appears to me that this may not be a serious problem but candidly the flickering lamps drive me NUTS. It just screams something is wrong and that's simply not the vision I have of an outstanding amplifier.
If I haven't beaten the details to death already, the flickers are responses to bass notes, pretty much exclusively. When I use my "iconic" 8-Track the bass response (at least with the tape I am playing) are insufficient to get more than a slight flicker from the lamps. However with a disco LP the lamps go out completely, and not just a quick flicker, sometimes like a brief pause. That is to say a very prolonged flicker.
If it is a power source problem rather than a poor solder point, there is no apparent effect to the sound quality.
Beolab 5000 Update:
There was a question about the mains selection and the BL is set to 130v, which is correct for North America. There is another offering at 110v, but I don't know if this would make a significant difference.
Soren wanted to know about the house current, which measures a very constant 118.2.
The speakers I am using leave much (on paper) to be desired, however the combined sound quality is surprisingly successful. I am using power hungry MC120.2 speakers with low demand and only partially working Fisher XP66 speakers, which make up for the MC120.2's anemic bass capacity. One could make a case for better speaker selection, however I feel a 60w amplifier should be able to accommodate such speakers to a "reasonable level."
In "testing" the BL, I took the volume level to just over 6.5 where I noticed the faint beginnings of distortion. Immediately following this "test" the light flickering that previously had begun at level 5 now was evident at level 4, which is a backwards and unexpected step.
If I keep the volume level at 4 or less, I have no problem. Better still, if I only use my AKAI 8-Track, the reduced range seldom triggers the flickering lamps.
However if a bombastic LP is chosen with a lot of boom boom bass, the lamps are going to response like a overly anxious Christmas tree light set indicating an over stressed amp. However no matter what is attempted, the heatsinks do not get hot which you would expect from an over stressed, over-demanded amp.
That's the status thus far on the Beolab. Me? I am just plain confused.
Comments or suggestions? I am sure open for either.
I think the MC120 are eight ohm speakers.
Now the Beolab is a sixty watter under four ohms, and not really suited to old eight ohm boxes. Its power will then be about 30 watts, the usual with 3055 transistors driven gently. You have to be aware of that.
Current production boxes are commonly between 4 and 6 ohms and the Beolab will be happy to drive them. That said, I have never heard mine distort badly, even driving eight ohm speakers - albeit reasonably so.
I'm confused as well here. My guess is that something happened during transport after all. That ominous light flicker proves it. Sending it back to Søren seems like the best option to me.
I am BADLY speaker challenged these days. Just made an offer on some B&O speakers but the seller wanted double what I thought they were worth. Tried the local used stereo shop and I would be fearful of termites and rot from the sad collection of unknown speakers on display.
Well, I have no problem keeping the volume down to protect the Beolab, consider it done.
When I said I detected distortion the volume was audibly very high 6.5 and the distortion was SLIGHT. Very SLIGHT.
Soren today suggested changing the voltage setting from 130v to 110 v and that DID make a positive difference. On low demand music I went from lamp flickering at 4 to 5, which is clearly better. Then tried a boom boom recording I happen to like and the flickering comes back with a vengeance, BUT, the flicker is not to absolute off (briefly) as it was previously.
Unfortunately, I agree, it really looks likely that something happened in shipment. Good God, the meticulous way Soren packed it, they must have thrown it across the room! Might explain what happened to the Beomaster as well, but let's not go there, that is entirely another story. I HATE shipping stereo gear, I really do.
So until either the problem becomes more clear or the BL is repaired, I will gladly take it easy on it...... after waiting THIS long for a BL, I am not about to knowingly do anything that might damage it.
Thanks for your input!!!!! (ALWAYS WELCOME!)
I am now in the process of gathering information from the cognoscenti here on BeoWorld and have a pretty fair idea of source of the power supply issue with my new Beolab.
While sorting through this the thought that occurs is the flickering lamps which are the result of a voltage drop can reasonably be used as a temporary over-load protector, that is to say, if the lights are steady there should be sufficient voltage for the amplifier itself to avoid any problem while maintaining sound quality.
The only remaining question is, is it to be expected (acceptable) for the left side of the Beolab to get actually quite hot? I have been keeping close check on the heatsinks which seldom get more than warm. I touched the left side yesterday by accident and was relatively surprised by how hot it was. Of course hot is a broad term, but more than body temperature, but not too hot to touch.
If the left side being rather toasty is of no concern I would like to spend a good bit of time letting this Beolab settle-in...... and enjoy the music while it is doing it.
If the left side temperature IS a problem, I sure hope someone will let me know.
Thanks guys.
Left and middle third are the end stages, the right third stays cool, here I had no heat differences between middle and left third. I had the amp connected to my tv (Tape in) and often forgot to turn it off at night, so 24 hours on was no problem, behaving exactly as my BM 4400. Please make sure that your speakers are OK, I start getting nervous here.
I checked for heat frequently, after finished repair every 10.15 minutes, then every hour, and after installation in my living room a couple of times a day, during a party it was playing loud (level 5 sometimes 6) about 4-6 hours, the cooling elements only got a little more than hand warm, and only a little more than when playing long time at normal listening level, which was around 3, depending of the source.
I see about 100 hours of work going up in smoke, something is wrong, please check your speakers and connected sources , please dont let it play until it breaks down
OK, I didn't expect this response, but THANK YOU BOTH.
Jacques I will get you the temperature reading today.
Soren, please do not fear all you hard work going up in smoke. However I have to turn the Beolab on to get the temperature reading for Jacques. I will have the real report in an hour, but as a guess I would say the left temperature was 39 degree C.
After I have the temperature reading if you guys decide the Beolab should not be used at all, then I won't.
And no, I meant the LEFT side, the right side is cool. Also, one more time, the heatsinks from side to side are just a tad more than warm, but less than body temperature.
Guys, now I am concerned.
Guys you have left me a bit scared and confused at the same time.
I had intended to give you a scientific answer to your question, however my thermometer battery just died and I don't have a spare. (Pretty much my luck) I did get one reading on the LEFT side of 37 degree C. I was going to check the right side and the heatsinks, but no dice, all I get now is "Lo."
Trying to describe the situation as BEST I can, the left side is right at body temperature from the middle to the rear of the Beolab, getting warmer the closer I get to the back. The front end is basically cool, both left and right sides.
The right side is warm, but NOT hot.
The heat sinks are (probably) 37 degrees C on the left side and middle. The right side is considerably cooler.
After 45 minutes at 5.5 on the volume dial the temperature evens out, that is to say the right side is now similar in temperature to the formally hotter left. Also the font end is now warm too, both sides about the same. Basically the initial differences in temperature evens out. Even the heatsinks are similar, although the right is s little cooler, but not much.
The sound quality is exceptional, VERY good. Also no odor from the electronics.
After one hour the temperature remains constant, however, I have lost confidence in the safety of using this Beolab, so I shut it off. Don't plan to use it again unless you guys feel it is OK to use.
Jacques and Soren, Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4
I don't know if it makes any difference however my Beomaster 4400 played the exact same pair of speakers, using the same Beogram 8000 and AKAI 8-Track for well over 3 years, and as that was a Beomaster I had reason to be concerned over, I checked the heatsink temperatures on a very regular basis, and the 4400 was dependably warm, never hot.
The Beomaster 4400 has rather similar wattage and I think we can make the case that it was not quite as well built as the Beolab, so I question that it might be the set up-causing whatever distress this Beolab is suffering from. The MC120.2 speakers might well be something of a challenge, but I don't see them as being able to inflict damage.
If you think I am wrong about this, I am pretty confident that you will tell me.
With the temps/ you mention go on playing, no problem. Just to explain the differences, the transformer is located to the far right, seen from the front, the the transformer will heat up the right side, but no more than a little more than hand warm, the power transistors are located middle and left side, so a difference from left to right is natural, 37°C left on the heat sinkls after playing normal level 1 hour is OK, the middle heat sinks should be about the same
Her you can see the transformer
chartz:Ok Jeff, my mistake, I thought you were talking about the heatsinks. We techs always check temperature where the power transistors are mounted. That the left cheek should be quite hot is absolutely normal and fine! Sorry about the confusion. And back to stage one.
That the left cheek should be quite hot is absolutely normal and fine!
Sorry about the confusion. And back to stage one.
Please, no problem, I am just a bit relieved.
JUST to be absolutely clear my "surprise was the black metal left side of the Beolab was 37 degrees. If I have the order right, the left side heated up first, then a half an hour later I noticed that the heatsinks were about the same temperature (left & middle) cooler on the right. About that time I noticed that the right side which had been much cooler was close to the same temperature. Is this still OK?
I was VERY concerned when Soren said I was doing something that would have his "100 hours of work up in smoke." That really upset me, but at the same time I understood after putting so much work into a project he wouldn't want someone to carelessly damage all that work.(And I SURE didn't want that someone to be me.)
As a result, I haven't used the Beolab since.
What surprised me was with the voltage setting changed the lamp flickering stopped and I thought I had the problem addressed, at least in the short run. Plus the sound quality is SO good, it is my view that an over-stressed amp will deliver distorted sound, and that was anything but the case here.
When I first noticed the "hot" left panel I wasn't all that worried, but yet concerned enough to mention it and the reaction took me by surprise. I know that the Beolab runs hotter than my Beomaster 2400.2 and Beomaster 4500, but similar to the Beomaster 4500 which is powering S45 speakers, which should, in theory, be a good match.
So in summery I would really appreciate you and Soren confirming that after an hour at volume level 5.5; 37 degrees pretty much all over is OK.
Thanks!
Søren Mexico:With the temps/ you mention go on playing, no problem.
Soren,
I hope you realize that I would never, but never do anything knowingly that would damage all your fine work, but the thought that maybe I was over taxing the amp genuinely frightened me.
I believe that the Beolab is still "settling in" and as such I have been running it all day, every day (volume level 1) when I am not in the room enjoying it. I thought I was doing the right thing by the amp so the thought that I was somehow misguided and actually damaging it.... well I felt terrible.
So just to make double sure, as I asked Jacques, do you agree that 37 degrees, pretty much everywhere is OK after an hour at volume level 5.5? (except the front panel which is cool)
Oh, and before you ask what is the temperature at level 1, honestly I never thought to check, but I can.
Thats OK Jeff, you scared the shite out of me when you said it got hot and only left side, just go on playing and lets see what happens
Søren Mexico:Thats OK Jeff, you scared the shite out of me when you said it got hot and only left side, just go on playing and lets see what happens
Good God Soren that was certainly NOT my intention! Maybe I need to work on my writing skills a bit more.
I was MUCH more concerned with the flickering lamps, the hot side panel was more a curiosity that I wanted to explore. With the lamps no longer flickering I thought I was on the right path. And apparently I was.
There is other "stuff" too trivial to mention, but all "improving" and that what the "we'll see how things develop" comment referred to.
The Beolab is doing beautifully and the sound quality is a tribute to YOU.
Any possible "issues" yet to be resolved WILL be, but at least I need not be concerned with using the Beolab.
Left side panel (part of the chassis) has 4 big resistors mounted to it, so that this part gets more hot than the cooling ribs or the top cover is natural
Pic showing the resistors between the small PCB and the wall
Muchas gracias Soren, que definitivamente explica el panel izquierdo caliente.
Hey Soren,
In honour of you and the country where the Beolab was restored I am playing Sandro: Tu me enloqueces.Sandro, although from Argentina was popular in Mexico in the mid-seventies.
While I am thoroughly enjoying this period album, somehow listening to it calls for a tequila sunrise. (Oh boy, now that takes me back....)
Anyway, just enjoying my Beolab via Sandro and thinking about the man who made it possible, literally.
Was in the kitchen preparing a French union soup, now listening to Roxettes, drink is always cuba, I lift my glass in north westerly direction and Salud you, be careful with the Tequila, I had a long night in Copenhagen some 40 years ago with a girl my age including 2 bottles of the kind
Søren Mexico:be careful with the Tequila, I had a long night in Copenhagen some 40 years ago with a girl my age including 2 bottles of the kind
Thanks Soren for the toast which is much appreciated.
The thought for the Tequila was inspired solely by Sandro and his music.
I had a "similar" experience with Tequila 30 years ago. I had a friend who was literally "God's gift to women" and he asked me to go bar hopping with him. When a guy like Kent walked into a bar all the ladies eyes would be fixed on him..... like I wasn't even there.
Well at "fate" would have it, that was MY night, I was the one getting all the attention with one beautiful women after another asking me to dance and who am I to say no?
In-between dances Kent was buying me JUMBO Margaritas. I would stop for a moment, gulp down the Margarita and back on the dance floor. It was a blast!
I remembered drinking 11 Margaritas but as we left the bar, Kent said "Try 13."
Made it home safe and sound but after that, details omitted. All I can say is I couldn't even LOOK at a bottle of Tequila for about 5 years.
Hi Guys,
This WAS going to be my definitive temperature report as I have a battery for the thermometer, and while I have moderate confidence the the first few readings, after that it proved a bit too much for the medical thermometer.
None the less, left side 37.2C; Right side 36.1C; Left heatsink 42.6C, Middle heatsink 40.2C; right heatsink 37.8C.
Less scientific but probably just as useful the left side metal panel is slightly warmer than the right metal panel. The heatsinks get progressively warmer going from left to right.
All the above is after an hours play at 5.5 on the volume slider.
I am not an expert, like the rest of you guys, but I'd say it all looks pretty normal to me.