ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I have just joined here to seek help with a friend's beocenter 9000.
I know it needs a good clean inside as the cassette and CD lids are reluctant to open and close. However when the CD does close the disc spins up but then stops and the lid opens again. I have searched these forums but cannot find that particular problem described. Does anyone please have a suggestion for a cure?
Many thanks, John.
Ps. I've seen sreference to a strut, like a bonnet strut on a car, to hold up the top half. But I cannot see one on this, just a bit of white plastic that may be broken off above and behind the time display. Was that it, perhaps? Thanks.
johnbb99: Ps. I've seen sreference to a strut, like a bonnet strut on a car, to hold up the top half. But I cannot see one on this, just a bit of white plastic that may be broken off above and behind the time display. Was that it, perhaps? Thanks.
Yes, it has been broken off at one point, normal thing to happen, the white holder breaks off and people don't replace them. So you are missing the metal rod. You can just use some make believe metal wire or something to hold it, or a friend while you remove the cd unit.
you need to replace the C2103 capacitor on the servo board. Search for C2103 on the forum and you will find lots of threads about it.
/jacob
Thanks Jacob. how likely is it that my particular problem with the CD player will be cured by replacing that capacitor?
johnbb99: Thanks Jacob. how likely is it that my particular problem with the CD player will be cured by replacing that capacitor?
97,4% ;)
/Jacob
Cleaning of the laser with a cue tip and alcohol is also recommended, just be sure to wipe off fast with a dry cue tip.
Also the small dark "rubber" ring of the spindle might loose its grip, and the disc may slip.. this can be heard as a scraping sound when spinning up.
if this is also a problem, then it can be fixed by cutting adding a ring of rough tape around the spindle.
The C2103 is always in need of changing as a first thing
Weebyx: Cleaning of the laser with a cue tip and alcohol is also recommended, just be sure to wipe off fast with a dry cue tip. /Jacob
LOL - Cue tip would pertain to billiards. It's Q-tip (Brand name)
Not all types of capacitors will work with the laser output. The cap needs to have certain filter characteristics.While it is correct that the majority of problems are caused by C2103, the other capacitors on the servoboard areof the same age and has lived in the same conditions, so they will also be marginal if not already bad.If you load a test-CD like f.e. YEDS5 or similar (I use the Philips equivalent set) and watch the cats-eye pattern onan oscilloscope and the amount of jitter, you can typically see a clear difference with new capacitors and quite often the drivewill play discs that it couldn't prior to recap'ing (and the error-correction will be less busy).Kits are available for most servoboard versions. They contain correct types of capacitors and it's no more than 5-10 caps so fairly cheap.I suggest you grab a kit and replace the lot.
Martin
I'm new to this forum. Evidence is above where I triple posted, and then failed to find a way to delete posts B and C!
Anyway, would you please point me to where I can order a kit of capacitors?
Have I seen elsewhere that the servo board is underneath the CD drive?
Thanks all.
Thanks for that information.
Your confusion of Qtip with cue tip is entirely understandable as they are homophones. (or maybe you dictated it?)
I loved your use of ' make believe ' - perhaps I could make the top stay open by sheer power of imagination, that would be cool! :-)
John
Email/PM me for parts.Yes to the servo board.
I have reached the servo board, and see that some of the caps are Nichicon. Did B&O use them in the 9000, or has someone been here already doing some replacements? c2103 looks to me like an original Philllips one [ but could be a replacement Phillips, I suppose].
The multipole connectors carrying grey and black wires are held in place by a latch, but on my board a piece of PCB that could be broken off, to allow the latch to be released, is still there with 3 holes drilled along the break line. See photo. Is this normal, as it makes it very difficult to release the catch?
You don't have to break off anything to release the connectors. The catch will move far enough just bending the board tab a bit.The capacitors on your board are the originals.
Edit: Third - and last - attempt at posting this. I have so many problems with timeouts I hardly can't be bothered posting anymore.
Thanks for the advice. It looks to me as if they intended to remove the pcb tabs, but forgot or didn't bother.
Original caps, noted.
Is the timeouts problem with the forum? Do others have a problem? I've noticed that when I click 'Post' nothing seems to happen.
Many thanks.
After replacing the caps on the servo board, all was well.
Until today.
see new post:- Beocenter 9000 CD player repaired but now has new fault