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Using B&O Speakers with a non B&O TV

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This post has 26 Replies | 2 Followers

FrankofHythe
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FrankofHythe Posted: Fri, Oct 17 2014 4:45 PM

Hi All,

I am a new member to this forum.

I have had the enjoyment of my B&O system for the last14 years. I have been watching my Avant (analogue) TV through a Sky+ decoder connected with a scart cable since digital changeover.

 However I would now like to upgrade to a Smart TV. Sadly I can't afford a new B&O TV but I want to continue to use my BeoLab 6000 Active Stereo Loudspeakers (4) and BeoLab2 Subwoofer. Could I purchase a Samsung, Panasonic or Sony Smart TV and still use the B&O surround speaker system.

Any help or guidance would be really appreciated.

Rivenflush
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Hi,

no problem whatsoever, I am running a similar setup with a Panasonic plasma and BL8000, BL6000 and BL4000 + Argon sub. What you would need is a reeiver with pre-outs - I have a Yamaha Rx-V773. Then you have two options:

1. Connect the pre-outs to the line-out on the Beolabs (not sure if the Beolab 2 has a line-out)

2. Purchase custom cables with a trigger input and connect to the Powerlink on the Beolabs

I have the second alternative and the advantage is that the speakers will turn on / turn off with the receiver (which is not the case with the first alternative when the speakers will be turned on / off if there is sound - this is an issue especially at lower volumes and for the surround speakers).

I have purchased the cables from here:
http://www.av-connection.dk/?PGr=1760

Then I have bought a simple 3,5mm male to six female adapter on eBay which i have connected to the 12V trigger output on the receiver.

Complement it with a Beo5/6 with macros and it will feel almost like a Beovision Smile 

Best regards,

Riven

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

Lekruse
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Lekruse replied on Fri, Oct 17 2014 6:03 PM

Rivenflush, do you have any noise/humming in your speakers using the Yamaha receiver ?

I have a Denon AVR 3312 with trigger and av-connection cables aswell, but it seems the denon is generating a little hizz noise on the signal.

Rivenflush
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Hi Mike,

no, there is no noise from any speaker. When I used Line-out I had some very very low noise.

Best regards,

Martin

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

Rivenflush
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Hi Mike,

no, there is no noise from any speaker. When I used Line-out I had some very very low noise.

Best regards,

Martin

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

kallasr
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kallasr replied on Fri, Oct 17 2014 7:39 PM
check the link in my signature....

Ralf

Living Room: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-2 (Center), Beolab 9 (Fronts), Beolab 8000 (Rears), no Subwoofer. Screen: Sony KD-85XH9096
Dining Room: Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 4000 on stands, fed by Amazon Echo Show 8
Home Cinema: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-4 (Center), Beolab 1 (Fronts), Beolab 4000 (Rears). Projector: Sony VPL-HW55
Home Office: Beosystem 3, Beolab 7-4, Beolab 5000, Screen: Sony KD-55XH9005 on Beovision 7-40 stand, ML to Beosound 9000 MK3 and Beosound 5/Beomaster 5 (1 TB SSD version)
Bedroom: Sony KD-65XH9077, Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 6002 and Beolab 11 (all white, wall-mounted)

In storage: Beolab 5000/Beomaster 5000 (1960s). 

L1NO
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L1NO replied on Fri, Oct 17 2014 8:27 PM

Most ICE amplified beolab speakers have a small hiss if you connect/dont connect the speaker. You have to put your ear on the speaker to hear it tough.

Lekruse
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Lekruse replied on Fri, Oct 17 2014 8:46 PM

Yes im aware. But it seems the denon receivers on particular gives more noise. It's easily noticeable at 3-4 meters distance.

Aussie Michael
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Ok Riven,

Now i think i'm confused lol 

To clarify things for my little brain, you have a receiver using 5.1

And you have the cables with powerlink at one end going in to the receiver (pre-out or normal).

As there is only 1 trigger output on the receiver, and if you use 5 cables with trigger, which speaker cable is being run to the trigger? 

Say you have the 8000s at the front, do you use just the one RCA from one cable (leaving one just hanging) for the left speaker, and the same situation for the right?

I'm interested in this setup :-)

 

FrankofHythe
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Hi Rivenflush,

Thanks for the prompt reply. Plenty for me to study before I embark on the job. One further question concerns the Beo4 TV Remote. Would I still be able to use it like I did with the Sky+ decoder. The shop set it up with a cable from the B&O tv which had an infra red sensor that you could stick over the decoders sensor so that the B&O remote sent instructions to the Sky+ decoder.

Regards, Frank 

FrankofHythe
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Hi kallasr,

Thanks for the link to Ralf. What a terrific post. So much info to help with my project.

Much appreciated.

Regards, Frank

 

Rivenflush
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Rivenflush replied on Sat, Oct 18 2014 11:03 PM

Hi Frank,

you won't be able to control the TV using the Beo4 remote as the non-B&O TV is responding to other commands. If you would like to still use the Beo4 you could get a Lintronic box:

http://lintronic.dk/tt455rt238.aspx

I do not have one myself as I am using Beo5s but with this box you can map all commands from a Beo4 to any other IR code (the box acts as a translator). Should be some info on Beoworld if you use the search function.

BR
Martin 

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

Rivenflush
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Rivenflush replied on Sat, Oct 18 2014 11:15 PM

Aussie Michael:

Ok Riven,

Now i think i'm confused lol 

To clarify things for my little brain, you have a receiver using 5.1

And you have the cables with powerlink at one end going in to the receiver (pre-out or normal).

As there is only 1 trigger output on the receiver, and if you use 5 cables with trigger, which speaker cable is being run to the trigger? 

Say you have the 8000s at the front, do you use just the one RCA from one cable (leaving one just hanging) for the left speaker, and the same situation for the right?

I'm interested in this setup :-)

1. I have a 7.1 receiver but only using 5.1

2. The cables I use have RCA contacts on one end which is connected to the pre-outs on my receiver and power links on the other end which is connected to the Beolab. Then I have connected al 3.5mm trigger connectors to the 12V trigger output using a simple 3.5mm adapter like this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-6-in-1-3-5mm-Female-Plug-Audio-Adapter-Splitter-Converter-For-MP3-MP4-/171373221560?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhonesCasesPouches&var=470423495951&hash=item27e6a3d6b8

3. There are 3 different versions of the cable. 1 for left channel only, 1 for right channel only and 1 with both channels. 

4. I have Beolab 8000s as fronts connected with one right channel cable and one left channel cable. Two Beolab 4000s as center speakers with a cable with both right and left channel to one speaker and then a power link to daisy chain them. Two 6000s as backs with one right and left cable is connected to one of them and then I have daisy chained the other one using a power link. 

It works like a charm - and another nice feature is that the receiver has Airplay and Network standby. This means that whenever I Airplay something to it, it will turn on automatically. So I start e.g. Spotify on my Ipad and then the sound is coming directly from the speakers and I can control the volume from the Ipad. 

/Riven

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

Aussie Michael
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Thanks Riven.

You're marvellous.  Thanks for your reply.

Cheers from Oz.

Michael. 

Rivenflush
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Rivenflush replied on Sun, Oct 19 2014 11:24 AM

Just to add to my previous post - as all Beolabs are connected to the same trigger output (as there is only one on this receiver) it means that all Beolabs will be turned on when the receiver is turned on. However, for each source on the receiver you can choose what speaker setup you would like to use for that specific source.

When I listen to music from my Beosound 9000 (which is connected to the receiver as well) or use Airplay (which works both through the Besound 9000 -  I have an Apple TV connected to it to allow for other Masterlink products to use Airplay - and through the receiver directly ) I have 2.1 sound with the 8000s and the sub.

When I watch TV or use my Playstation 3 I have 5.1 surround sound with all speakers.

Thus the center and back speakers are always turned on but they are quiet when I listen to music.

A Beovision will make the integration easier, and potentially have a better picture quality but I must say that I am very satisified with the two Panasonic plasmas I have which only cost approx.  a fifth of a new Avant (50" inch though) and the design integrates very well with my other B&O products. Here's a review of the Panasonic VT50 I have in the living room:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uabqvG5TGU0 

My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....

olvisab
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olvisab replied on Sun, Oct 19 2014 12:52 PM
Hi

As i have sold at the beginning of this year my bv 7 mk3 ( I needed the money for my bl5 ), before buying another amp, preamp or bluray player with preamp. I have finally thought why not use a bv 7 40 mk3 panel only and use its beosystem 3 for surround decoding only.

I will put the tv in another room or hide it in my garage and control the bs3 remotely with the MLGW (with p.mute).

Nowadays, mk3 panel can be found sometimes at bargain prices. I just find one perfectly working for 400 euros.

In the futur, if I don't use it for surround I will probably use it for a projector or as a ML activ. 4 speakers in 2 different rooms that can be activated with speakers option (2 or 4).

Ok that's not completely respectful for this bv but why not ?

4 beolab 5,  beolab 9, beolab 10, beolab 5000, beolab 8000 mk2, beolab 6002, beolab 3500, beovision 7 55 mk2,  2 beovision 11 46 mk4, beotime, beosound ouverture, beosound essence, beoplay A8, beomaster 900 RG de luxe and the collection continues...

markiedee
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markiedee replied on Sun, Oct 19 2014 1:32 PM

I use B&O speakers with an non B&O tv. I started off with beolab 17s which had a fault and I'm now using beolab 14 2.1

The tv i have is a loewe slim frame led tv. I used to have the older loewe compose which was plagued with a few problems but benefitted from having a pre-amp section built in which required hook up via a audio link cable.

this particular cable had front left and right, centre rears and subwoofer sockets which enabled you to use active speakers. 

once connected you go into the loewe sound components menu and tell the tv that your using a speaker system from there you set speaker distances frequencies and volume.

both B&O speakers worked with no problems turning on when they sense a signal and switching off when the TV was turned off.

with my new tv that has digital audio link which is used in conjunction with an audio link converter and cat6 Ethernet cable. The signal it provides now is through the digital domain and the sound quality sounds even better.

Beoplay A2

markiedee
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markiedee replied on Sun, Oct 19 2014 1:49 PM

And after learning so much of how you can implement B&O speakers with non B&O stuff, if I ever had to get a different brand of tv besides a loewe i no exactly what cables and type of pre-amp or amp with pre-outs i would get.

Beoplay A2

TWG
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TWG replied on Thu, Aug 20 2015 9:30 AM

It's an older thread but it fits my questions and I don't want to start one with the same topics.

I've bought an OLED TV and I'm blown away by the picture quality but not by the sound of the TV.  So I want to add a Beolab 7.x

I'm deciding between 7.1 and 7.2 but is there a big difference between those two?

What's the best way to achieve it. Can I use a Beolink active or  an old Beolinc conterter or s.th. else to achieve remote control of the speaker volume?
The TV set has digital audio out (optical) and headphone output.

BeoMotion
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BeoMotion replied on Thu, Aug 20 2015 10:00 AM

Hi TWG,

A bit overblown would be the combo of Transmitter1 + Receiver1 + USB-IR adapter. This would allow you to connect the optical out to the transmitter and (depending on you TV model) adjusting the volume with your new TV's remote. Since the transmitter has no PL out you would have to go the way over WISA.

I'm not really sure at the moment whether it is possible to activate the PC source of a BL active without being connected to ML. If this would work you could try to connect the HP out to the PC in of BL active and control on/off and volume via Beo4. 

TWG
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TWG replied on Thu, Aug 20 2015 10:25 AM

mmh, Transmitter 1 + Receiver 1 within a distance of 1m in a rack sounds like "a bit" overblown, yes. Big Smile But it's a nice solution.

that would be great if a simple beolink active could act like the Beo 4 controller. Than I would just need an Ir-eye for it. :)

Or is there any possibility to use e.g. a Beocenter with speaker groups? I guess this is NOT possible.

PK
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PK replied on Thu, Aug 20 2015 10:26 AM

Have you had a look at Almando hdmi --> powerlink converter? you can use your regular remote for samsung/sony/philips/whatever tv to control the volume. It only has stereo output so no surround...

Read more at the link below:

http://almando.com/index.php/almando-category/hdmi-powerlink-converter.html

BeoMotion
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BeoMotion replied on Thu, Aug 20 2015 11:02 AM

Okay, I wasn't aware of this new solution from almando.

This might be the perfect device for TWG and a lot of other people... 

rfrichg
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rfrichg replied on Fri, Aug 21 2015 1:11 PM

I am using an none B&O tv to B&O speakers.

First time i tried i also used a pre out after sometime I got a custom made cable.


RCA (volume regulated from the TV) and USB from the TV to trigger Powerlink on, this worked super with just as good as the pre amp (it was cheap), for this to work be sure that you have volume regulated line out signal.  
There are some noise in the speaker but you will have you ear all over in the speaker to hear it, and well all I don't hear it in my sofa, be aware that a lot of if not all the speakers always have a little noise. 

My setup to day is the Transmitter 1 with an IR-eye (sadly not working with B&O remote, but I'm able to control the volume with my LG remote) connected with optical toslink, and then playing to my Beolab 20.

rfrichg
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rfrichg replied on Fri, Aug 21 2015 1:11 PM

My message got dobbel posted and I can't delete it

Micah
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Micah replied on Thu, Mar 15 2018 1:39 PM

Hello,

i saw your response to this old post and wonder if you can help. I am new to beoworkd forum. Can you let me know if there is a better way to ask a question of the community. 

My house is wired with older MCL cables  going to a variety of speakers throughout the house. They all terminate at an old Ovature unit. The cables that open the glass doors are broken so I want to take this opportunity to replace it with something that I can just stream music to from Apple products. Is there a way I can put something other than B&O in place of the ovature (too expensive for me right now) that will allow people in the family to stream music and  use speakers throughout the house. The picture in my head is to hang up an old iPad where the ovature was and use that as an interface where the ovature was. 

Millemissen
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld,

1: is the faulty doors of the BS Ouverture the only problem with it?

If yes, this can be fixed - maybe even by yourself.

2: there must be more in the ‘mix’ than the Ouverture.

The Ouverture can not drive the speakers in the MCL chain on its own.

There must be something like this also:

https://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=979

to drive/amplify the speakers.

3: the Ouverture has an Aux-input. You can easily connect the output (I suppose that you mean the headphone-out) of an old iPad) there.

In the rooms with the speaker (connected to the MCL cables) you can activate this/the A.Aux in order to hear what is connected to the Aux input (= your iPad). 

Do you have the small rectangular ir-receivers there?

I suppose that you have some B&O remotes for these rooms - at least one?

4: even if the doors of the Ouverture stay faulty, you can still use it to distribute the sound to the MCL rooms.

MM

There is a tv - and there is a BV

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