ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
After having done a lot of reading on these speakers and listening to them on two occasions, I have a few remaining questions that I would like to get out of the way before committing to buying a set.
The questions are:
Where is the IR receiver located, and how sensitive are they? Background of the question is I want to use a Logitech Harmony remote (found out this should work), and place a blaster under a floating cabinet which will beam into the room (though not directly onto both speakers). I anticipate to get a somewhat more recent set that has the sync ports.
When a demoed a set, they were hooked to a streamer using a digital cable. The volume was controlled via a Beo4. When changing the volume, only 1 speaker's LED flashed (the master), indicating a volume change, though it appeared both speakers actually changed volume. I don't think there was a sync cable connected. Is this normal?
Do people experience image/sound sync issues using a setup like: LG Oled TV (playing playstation and hd tv being external sources to the tv and internal sources like netflix), optically hooked up to a streamer (aim to use a Bluesound Node 2), which is subsequently digitally hooked to the Beolabs. This is a pure stereo setup and I have read most sync issues arise when there is some surround processing going on.
What cables were originally supplied with a new pair of Beolab 5s? I have located a set that has original packaging, would like to receive everything that should go with it.
I have read some posts on PIN codes being applicable to these speakers. What should I know about this? Should these be supplied with the speakers and when should I need them? I have no need to apply some sort of extra security measures on them.
Can I get these properly setup without a Beo4 at all, only using a Logitech Harmony?
I think that's it. Looking forward to your input and thanks in advance!
Haubjes: Where is the IR receiver located, and how sensitive are they?
- Flere
smile and enjoy the moment
Thanks, that's clear.
Anyone on the remaining questions? Again, much appreciated!
The IR is not very sensitive in the BL5. On my setup I decided that BL5 are activated by the Harmony remote itself instead of the blasters.
To be assured that both speakers are always at the same volume you have to use the sync cable (which is very easy to assemble). I don't know any other way of doing this, unless you are using a external preamp/processor to adjust the volume at the source...
Every digital processing add some delay in the sound path. There is a nice post from Geoff regarding this issue. Basically, if you detect a sync issue, change your speaker distance setting to adjust it.
My BL5 came with a pair of Powerlink, a pair of Line RCA and the power cords.
I've tried to teach my Harmony most of the functions of the Beo4 remote, but I had no success. In the end I had to buy a remote to set the speakers up.
Putzgrilous: The IR is not very sensitive in the BL5. On my setup I decided that BL5 are activated by the Harmony remote itself instead of the blasters. To be assured that both speakers are always at the same volume you have to use the sync cable (which is very easy to assemble). I don't know any other way of doing this, unless you are using a external preamp/processor to adjust the volume at the source... Every digital processing add some delay in the sound path. There is a nice post from Geoff regarding this issue. Basically, if you detect a sync issue, change your speaker distance setting to adjust it. My BL5 came with a pair of Powerlink, a pair of Line RCA and the power cords. I've tried to teach my Harmony most of the functions of the Beo4 remote, but I had no success. In the end I had to buy a remote to set the speakers up.
Thanks alot for these insights.
In your setup, do both speaker's leds blink if you change volume with the remote?
And do you (or anyone else) have any insights on the PIN codes?
Today I had a pair of BL5 delivered.
These are an ex-demo set that have been in storage for a while. Serials 225xxxxx
I was informed (only during delivery today) that one of the speakers had its power supply replaced during a servicing where they also received new software (both speakers).
One of the speakers has the smaller mains cable (I understand this is the correct one for the newer models) and one has a larger mains cables (I understand this belongs to the older models).
Is it common for these power supplies to get replaced? Any thoughts on why they might have received an 'older' power supply?
Additionally, there appears to be a cable that now is fed under the cover and has a loose cover plate, while the other speaker has a fixed plate and the cable is fed neatly though some hole in the middle, see picture:
Any thoughts?
Other than this they appear to (optically) be in pristine condition, no damage whatsoever. Just want to get a feel on whether I should be worried at all about this.
Thanks!
(hopefully the pictures worked out)
Have been doing a bit of searching, and this changed mains has me worried a bit. Can anybody shed some light on the questions below:
Is it correct that a beolab 5 with serial 225xxxxx originally has a mains unit that is not grounded, small plug, and only the older models (before 199xxxxx) have the larger one with a grounded cable?
Is the power supply attached to the part that has the ribbons that run all the way across the speaker back or is this a separate part?
If attached / one part, does swapping out the chassis for an older unit potentially affect any of its functioning (like being able to use the sync cable)?
Is swapping out the power supply equal to what on this board is referred to as a 'main chassis swap'?
If yes, are the chassis that are put in, refurbished parts on an exchange basis? I ask this because the black stuff that is on the ribbons appears to look much less neat than on the one speaker that has its original power supply (to my current understanding). You can also see this on the photo I posted, you can see that the black rubber stuff has deterioated somewhat (as opposed to the other speaker).
How is the sound quality of these?
I dont think they compare to vintage 1970's stuff during the golden age of audio!
My Pioneer SA-9500 With Ditton 44 speakers has a lot more detail and cost under £1,000.
I think the Yamaha B2 amp with Yamaha NS-1000 will destroy all bang & olufsen this isa £2,500 set up 1970's vintage.
I heard the Beolab 90 £58,000 a few months back sounds like a cinema excessive bass 6 huge woofers but not the sound that would have you shocked just loud powerful noise.
Hi end Vintage audio from the 1970's sound like the singer is in your room, thats back when the manufacturers use to take sound seriously.
The Yamaha B-2 amp & Yamaha NS-1000 would have been £20,000+ new.
Alot of people rate the vintage Tannoys very highly and selling on ebay for £3,000 -£10,000 50 years later says it all.
Haubjes: I was informed (only during delivery today) that one of the speakers had its power supply replaced during a servicing where they also received new software (both speakers).
To be frank, that's a bit sneaky on the seller's part. Claim 'ex-demo' but actually was probably a repair, in any case as long as they work. Also that's generally how b&o repairs things - replace the whole 'chassis' which includes amplifiers, power supply, etc. So it could have had another problem not power related but they replaced the whole lot which includes the power supply.
Haubjes: One of the speakers has the smaller mains cable (I understand this is the correct one for the newer models) and one has a larger mains cables (I understand this belongs to the older models).
They're electronically double insulated by mains transformers and AC-DC power supply. No issue for earthing, earthing such a thing is pointless.
Haubjes: Additionally, there appears to be a cable that now is fed under the cover and has a loose cover plate, while the other speaker has a fixed plate and the cable is fed neatly though some hole in the middle, see picture:
Looks to the the Sync cable, it is a 3.5mm connector yes?
David, thanks so much.
Would you say it is odd that the swapped part is actually an older part and in poorer condition?
Let me illustrate what I mean some more:
Here you find the 'right' speaker (highlighted in green), which shows the cable I mentioned (David, I dont think this is the sync cable as it has some 10pin connector on one end where it feeds into the speaker near the sync cable port, and feeds in the bottom of the speaker on the other end. Also note the general state of the cooling ribbons which I would say is very neat.
Then the 'other' speaker (in red), which has the different mains plug. Note the state of the ribbons (which has some of the covering come off). Also note that the cable now appears to randomly feed into the speaker underneath the cover on the left hand side, rather than being fed through this hole in the middle.
Any thoughts to what this cable is, where it is going to on the 'other' speaker and why it would have been routed differently on the one that has the different mains?
That cable is for the calibration microphone that is located in the bottom of the speaker.
Have you tested it to check if it is working properly?
Thanks for clearing that up.
I havent tested that at home, but was shown how that worked in the store (it worked on both speakers).That was approximately a week ago.
I tried to turn them on today but I dont have a beo4 at hand and apparently I could not get my Logitech Harmony to actually turn them on.
Perhaps they've reset to option 0 when plugged off and transported, I know in the store they were set to option 1 as a Bluesound was hooked up and Beo4 controlled the volume.
Would you say it is odd that on the image with the red, it appears to be routed differently?
Also some thoughts on the apparent chassis swap for an older unit?
The cable should not be visible in the bottom of the unit. In my speaker, it goes right through a metal fin where the mic is located, much like your green speaker.
Does that mean that you dont see that cavle at all when you take that cable cover off?
Can you perhaps post a picture with the cover off, with the same angle as my ‘green’ photo?
thanks so muxh, this is very helpful.
Regarding the heatsink grill, yes, it looks bad. I've seen that happening before due to the use of acid cleaning products. The only way to amend that is painting the piece again...
Where will your place your speaker? If the back part is going to face a wall, then that's not a problem...
I will put them quite close to a back wall, and one of them more or less in a corner. So wont be viaible really.
Its odd nonetheless. I still dont quite get why, if this was a chassis swap, was an older unit (wth older type plugs) lut in, in muxh poorer condition?
i can jnderstand b&o work wirh a part exchange basis, but would they really put a unit in that ia older and looked poorer?
Hi Putzgrilous, is this the original B&O sync cable? Looks pretty thick.
I need more Beolabs!
Putzgrilous, thanks for all you input and photos. Your speaker appears to be the same as my 'green' one in terms of the microphone cabling.
I acquired a Beo4 and got the speakers working. They sound great!
I've noted that, while both speakers respond to volume changes, only the speaker with the 'proper' power supply blinks green on volume change. The 'wrong' speaker does shine green when turned on, shines red when off, though does not blink on volume change. It does react to the Beo4 and changes volume accordingly.
Could this be linked to the main chassis apparently being swapped? have anybody seen this happen before?
Thanks again!
i think thats not a normal behaviour.
mine are blinking both (perfectly in sync), when i change the volume...
regards
Thanks Mike, I will take that up with the seller and see where this goes.
Did anybody ever had a main chassis swap done, and receive back a chassis in less good condition and/or of a different type of connection plug (i.e. small instead of large plug or vice versa)?
If you have now an "old" main chassi, then probably you have speakers running different firmware versions. The newer one blinks the led on volume changes, the old one doesn't. (?)
When you turn the speaker off, do they keep the red led ON permanently or do they turn the red led OFF after a few seconds?
Mike: i think thats not a normal behaviour. mine are blinking both (perfectly in sync), when i change the volume... regards
Putzgrilous: If you have now an "old" main chassi, then probably you have speakers running different firmware versions. The newer one blinks the led on volume changes, the old one doesn't. (?) When you turn the speaker off, do they keep the red led ON permanently or do they turn the red led OFF after a few seconds?
it depends if both BL are receiving the IR signal. Sometimes only one is receiving the signal and then blincking, the other one remains fixed, and the sync cable is synchroniziging the level, sometimes it is the other one, sometimes both (If the level is send through Powerlink, there is no blinking at all)
Well, I've a sync cable. When I change the volume in one speaker, the other blinks.
Besides, when I turn my BL off, the red led goes off after some seconds.
I'm running the firmware 3.30...
If I'm not mistaken, this behaviour (turn the red led off) was set in the latest firmware to fulfill european power saving requirements.
Is the firmware linked to the chassis?
The serial plates state they are running software 3.20.
If turned off, I think both stay red indefintely.