ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Moin, ich bin jetzt stolzer Besitzer der Penta MK3 und habe noch meine kleinen Wehwehchen.Als ich sie mit meinen M70 verglichen habe, musst ich Festellen, dass die Penta in den Höhen und in den Tiefen etwas schwach auf der Brust sind. Das ganze ist natürlich auch ein bisschen unfair zu vergleichen und ich meine hier nicht den "Badewannensound", aber ich hätte die Penta schon ganz gerne so, wie ich mir deren Potential vorstelle.Vllt. einmal mehr zu meiner Kette:Beogram 1000 und/oder Beogram 3300 an einem Röhren-Pre + Beosystem 4500(alles bis auf Plattenspieler) + Powerlink an Penta bzw. vorher über Lautsprecherkabel an die M70So, jetzt bin ich im Archiv auf einen Post gestoßen, wo Die_Bogener (habe ihn auch via Mail kontaktiert, aber keine Antwort bekommen | okay, es ist auch erst ein Tag vergangen ) sehr detailliert beschrieben hat, wie er seine Frequenzweiche optimiert, bzw. bestückt hat. Leider sind da die Bilder hops gegangen und das Servicemanual der 6631 zeigt mir irgendwie nicht das richtige Diagramm für die Weichen. Ich habe auch nur ein Diagram im Netz finden können.Kann mir da jemand etwas zu Rat stehen oder hat das jemand von euch schon einmal gemacht?Also im Detail, Weichen überbrücken und neue Kondensatoren etc.Sicken und der andere Kram sind top und machen mir hier erstmal keine Probleme.Freue mich über eure Hilfe!Gruß Kaya
Hallo,
du musst als erstes herausbekommen, welchen Hochtöner du hast.
Es gibt 2 Versionen:
1. die alte Version mit einem Hochtöner mit Plastikkappe
2. die neuere Version mit einem Textilhochtöner
Der Unterschied im Klang ist gewaltig. Die mit dem Textilhochtöner klingt "moderner" und spitzer, die ältere Version entspannter.
Schritt Nummer 2: Miss die Kondensatoren nach. Nach 20 Jahren sind manchmal die Werte im Keller und der Klang ist dann verwaschen.
Manchmal sind durch einen Wechsel der Teile riesige Unterschiede möglich. Fertige Sets für die Pentas sind bei Dillen erhältlich.
Erst wenn du die beiden Schritte erledigt hast, würde ich mich um einen Weichenmodifikation kümmern. Bevor du aber dort
dir viel Arbeit verschaffst, probier mal ein Heim DSP System aus. Man kann mit ein bisschen Einsatz dort große Änderungen erzielen.
Christophe aus Kapstadt hat damit große ERfolge erzielt.
Zu guter Letzt der Vorschlag von die Bogener:
BOARD 14: This board is responsible for the tweeter and the bass section. The tweeter uses C4 and R3. C4 is original 2.2uf and can be modded to 4.7 - 5.6 - 6.8uf. I like 5.6uf Wima. The picture shows a 4,7uf intertechnik. It is a little bit "soft". R3 can be set to 0 Ohm. it can be a wire bridge next to the big coil. All other parts were replaced by the same values by Intertechnik MKT foil capacitors. They are sold in germany by Conrad Electronik. I have tested also some other types, in the bass section i found no difference between MKS, MKT ... just the price was very different. The Intertechnik are not soo expensive and fit pretty good on the boards. C4 habe ich 6,8µf verwendet Board 15. It is responsible for the mid's. The resistor R5 can be set to 0 Ohm by a small wire bridge, the mid's become loader. All other capacitors have the same values like original. The C1 = 27uf is replaced by 1x22uf and 1x4,7uf, this value is hard to get. für den C1 habe ich den MKTA250 von Intertechnik in 27µf verwendet
BOARD 14:
This board is responsible for the tweeter and the bass section.
The tweeter uses C4 and R3. C4 is original 2.2uf and can be modded to 4.7 - 5.6 - 6.8uf. I like 5.6uf Wima. The picture shows a 4,7uf intertechnik. It is a little bit "soft".
R3 can be set to 0 Ohm. it can be a wire bridge next to the big coil.
All other parts were replaced by the same values by Intertechnik MKT foil capacitors. They are sold in germany by Conrad Electronik. I have tested also some other types, in the bass section i found no difference between MKS, MKT ... just the price was very different. The Intertechnik are not soo expensive and fit pretty good on the boards.
C4 habe ich 6,8µf verwendet
Board 15.
It is responsible for the mid's.
The resistor R5 can be set to 0 Ohm by a small wire bridge, the mid's become loader.
All other capacitors have the same values like original. The C1 = 27uf is replaced by 1x22uf and 1x4,7uf, this value is hard to get.
für den C1 habe ich den MKTA250 von Intertechnik in 27µf verwendet
Note that the filter boards in your post doesn't correspond to the schematics you show.They are of a later version.
Martin
Dank dir für deine Nachricht!
ich habe die letzte Version mit den Textilhochtöner. Ausserdem habe ich kein Multimeter mit Kapazitätsmessung, daher könnte ich nur auf Durchgang prüfen.
Habe jetzt schon Jantzen MKPs bestellt und auch schon erhalten:
2x 22uF
4x 8,2uF
2x 27uF
8x 0,68uF
2x 1,00uF
2x 5,6uF
4x 3,9uF
2x 2,2uF
6x 68uF
Da ich nicht weiß, ob das der richtige Schaltplan ist, habe ich aus einem anderen Beitrag einfach nachgekauft.
Was meinst du genau mit Heim DSP?
viele Grüße
K
Hey Dillen,
i can’t find the Right shematics. Do you know where I get the right one?
Kaya
Page 2-2 in the service manual for Beolab Penta Mk II.Downloadable from the Beoworld main website products section for silver and gold members, if you don't find it elsewhere.
Will you be designing new filter boards to suit the new capacitors?
that makes sense.
I had a incomplete Version without the wiring diagram for the crossover.
Maybe I can do that without adjustments. Only extend individual wires.
Hey,
hier ist ein Bild von dem Textil-Hochtöner:
und das wäre die Weiche aus der letzten Serie im Vergleich:
Daher glaube ich nicht, dass du die letzte Serie hast. Wahrscheinlich hast du ne frühe MK3 Serie?
Hey Stereomensch,
okay, die Weiche sieht zumindestens nicht danach aus.
Die Tweeter sind bei mir heller, also nicht nur die Plastikkappe, sondern auch die Membran.
Ich kann gerade keine Bilder machen und sehe auch gerade kein vergleichbares Bild bei Google.
So, ich habe ein Bild gefunden, was so ähnlich aussieht. ( nur eben sind die Sicken bei mir neu):
Those blue radial Maxcap capacitors will be bad by now.The boards are largely identical to the ones in the first post, - they can have either radial or axial capacitors fitted.To preserve or reachieve the original sound I suggest you fit new electrolytic capacitors instead of the old electrolyctics. No MKPs or other film capacitors.In the best of cases there won't be any discernible difference from electrolytics, in the worst of cases the speakers will end up sounding"modern" (some owners may like that), but they can end up sounding far from intended - sterile and wearing on the ears compared to theoriginal soft and pleasant (B&O-) sound of the electrolytic capacitors, to the point of relief when switched off.Electrolytics was also what B&O chose to use for the Pentas.
Total bescheuert, da hatte ich einen Gedankenfehler. Den Hochtöner muss ich mir morgen noch einemal anschauen. Was ich aber nicht verstehe: die 6631 waren meines Wissen nach, die letzte Ausführung, oder?
Ich werde morgen mal versuchen die Kondensatoren auszutauschen und dann einmal probehören, bevor ich weitere Änderungen mache.
@Dillen
Now I'm a bit confused.
The picture from stereomensch are the newest (with the Blue electrolytic capacitors).
My Board is the older one?
Stereomensch said, That the newer with the updated tweeter sounds more „modern“ and the highs are brighter? The older (mine) sounds softer.
Zu den Hochtönern:
Beide sind von dem norwegischen Hersteller SEAS.
Es war wohl so, dass Seas den mit der Plastikkappe eingestellt hat. B&O musste dann einen anderen
Hochtöner aus dem Sortiment nehmen. Mir hat ein B&O Insider erzählt, dass deswegen die Weiche eine Neukonstruktion ist.
Die Nummern beziehen sich meines Wissens nach eher auf das Display und das Baujahr.
Ahh Okay, das macht dann auch Sinn. Ich werde die MKPs morgen einsetzten und schauen ob es an den Kondensatoren lag. Ansonsten folge ich den Mods von die_Bogener.
Dillen: Those blue radial Maxcap capacitors will be bad by now.The boards are largely identical to the ones in the first post, - they can have either radial or axial capacitors fitted.To preserve or reachieve the original sound I suggest you fit new electrolytic capacitors instead of the old electrolyctics. No MKPs or other film capacitors.In the best of cases there won't be any discernible difference from electrolytics, in the worst of cases the speakers will end up sounding"modern" (some owners may like that), but they can end up sounding far from intended - sterile and wearing on the ears compared to theoriginal soft and pleasant (B&O-) sound of the electrolytic capacitors, to the point of relief when switched off.Electrolytics was also what B&O chose to use for the Pentas. Martin
Hello there,
may I jump in and curiously ask where that change of mind comes from or what happened? I can very well remember that in the older threads, where Die_Bogener first suggested all those modifications, you were full of praise and claimed quite different things. Or am I getting something wrong here?
Greetings,
Kai
I don't recall praising the use of film capacitors in crossovers in particular.At first I thought it was a great idea to replace electrolytic capacitors with film capacitors. Mainly because they (at least in theory) should last forever.I even made capacitor kits containing film capacitors for several of the larger B&O speaker models.But many buyers reported back, that they didn't like the sound of the speakers after the rebuild to film, and a feweven asked me to revert their speakers back to electrolytics.I wondered about that, but also had to admit never listening seriously and for longer periods of time to speakers rebuiltwith film capacitors, so I sat down and did exactly that. My conclusion was, that they were right, - the sound was wearing on the ears.Where I could listen to "original" speakers for hours without experiencing any fatigue, I grew tired of listening tothe ones rebuilt with film capacitors fairly fast. In the best of cases I honestly couldn't tell any difference from electrolytics, but in the worst ofcases I felt a relief when switching off.I also came to the conclusion that the speakers, filters and everything was designed for using electrolytics, andif any other type of capacitor would've made them better speakers, B&O would've used that.
I no longer provide film capacitor kits.Feedback from buyers made me aware, and I feel that the, at times very steep, prices of the film capacitors can't be justified.As mentioned earlier, some owners may actually like the sound of the film capacitors, - a sound that I like to refer to as "modern",because it seems that's where many speaker producers are heading, but it's not the typical and well-known "B&O-sound", - it's notwhat B&O intended and it's not the original and warm sound, I prefer myself.Another thing is, that the film capacitors are often quite bulky in size and rarely fit particularly well in the filter boards.This alone can be a challenge to some DIY'ers.Some film capacitor types are so big they need to be placed elsewhere inside the speaker cabinet, which again requires extended lead lengths = not good for cap specs.
What I recall praising was Die_Bogeners modifications to the amplifier section of Beolab Penta.A few coupling capacitors and some OpAmps are replaced for newer types.This is not done to improve the sound reproduction as such, - actually the sound isn't colored notably, but it dramaticallyimproves the signal/noise ratio, an area where the active Pentas with their "volume control" constantly at max can use all attention obtainable, andit also takes care of certain older OpAmp types that are notorious for injecting their own noise into the signal, so is absolutely worth doing.These modifications also got included (with Die_Bogeners accept) in the amplifier rebuild kits I make.
But it's all a matter of taste.If you like the "modern" sound then by all means go ahead and fit film caps (keep leads short and fasten everything so nothing rattles or breaks their solder joints), but if you want the original sound I recommend staying with electrolytics.
Hey Dillon,
I have now equipped the right speaker with the MKPs and hear what you mean.
the warm sound goes away and it gets very sterile. is that possibly at the depths? I'm still considering to equip the left because otherwise I have no complete system.
I have compared moded and unmoded examples of speakers and amplifiers. I have never made that experience. The mods Die_Bogener suggested clear things up, increase bass and treble. But obviously it also depends on who does the work and not only on the components used. Die_Bogener himself only delivers perfect work and honestly, from a theoretical point alone, his suggestions make much sense. The practical result lives up to that, although, of course, no wonders are to be expected.
I do not really buy that "B&O knew what they were doing" argument. Sorry, but although the Pentas were a very expensive to manufacture speaker and top of the range at the time, times where B&O tried to excel sonically were long over by then. The Penta turned out to be a mass product and costs obviously did play a role. Some of the components used were mediocre or even below that. Just look at those cheap resin enclosures for the midrange drivers - a disgrace to anybody who knows what some of the older spearkers looked like. Some of the electronic components definitely also were not the best (although drivers were still pretty decent). Beogram 4000, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 4400, even the Quad system, and some others - those were the times where costs did not matter to an equal extent. And you can tell. An overhauled Beomaster from that time paired with Beovox M100 will give any modern system even when paired with Beolab 5s a run for its money.
I prefer the moded systems sonically and electronically since they will last as you also highlight. Higher quality compomnents with better specs used in a savvy way won't hurt. One last remark: Die_Bogener knows his stuff. He, from my point of view, is one of the most knowledgable guys when it comes to Beosystem 4500 - 7000, Beocenter 9500, Beolink 7000, Pentas, RLs, but also the TVs and VCRs of the time.
Hey Manbearpig,
I have just installed the MKPs in the crossover and, if the sound stays that way, I have to agree with Dillon.
I do not know if the capacitors need time to burn in. But if they stay that way, the warm sound is gone. Unfortunately, I do not know much about the mods of Die_bogener, but an increase in heights does not seem to make sense to me now. I do not want to doubt it, what I read seemed thought out to me.BestKaya
Du kannst mit Manbearpig auch Deutsch reden, ist schließlich seine Muttersprache
Hast du denn jetzt nachgeguckt, was für einen Hochtöner du hast?
Wenn du zu den Bogeners Kontakt haben willst, schreib mal Ulf Kiener an.
I am not questioning Die_Bogeners skills and knowledge at all.As mentioned, I have actually adopted a few of his ideas, and I have sent several B&O owners, asking for repairs in Germany, to him over the years.He may like the sound of Pentas fitted with MKP capacitors and recommend it to others.I just don't.Despite many people wanting it to be - or wishing that it was - Penta was never an audiophile speaker.It wasn't intended to be and it won't be unless drastically redesigned, which in my opinion would be a shame.Penta is in my opinion one of the most beautiful speakers ever built, and it's an excellent speaker in itsown right, with an absolutely pleasant and nice sound.The engineers did their best with their knowledge, experience and not least the limitations of the design they were presented with, andclearly they must have faced a couple of challenges in the process; Cabinet volume and width quickly springs to mind.Usually the drivers are the most difficult parts as their T/S parameters often seem to call for cabinet volumes that just cannotbe granted, resonance points etc. but B&O had some drivers custom produced and ended up with what I think is a more thanacceptable result, considering the design.I'm sure they would have liked to introduce a 10-inch woofer somewhere, - it just couldn't be done, so they settled fora group of four 5-inch drivers (pairing identical woofers is something that many speaker designers warn against doing, but somethingthat B&O have managed to succeed in since the 1970s (4700/P45/RL60,140 etc.)When you judge Penta speakers performance you must keep in mind to sit down in a normal listening position.Not stand up in front of the speaker as many people tend to do and as the speakers design somehow asks of you.Generally, speakers should be placed at ear height - your ear height when listening, that is - whichfor most owners of f.e. wall-panel speakers comes out as surprisingly low and why speakers like f.e. Beovox S45-2 should be onstands rather than placed directly on the floor.Pentas midrange and tweeter section is at the right height for this, and its woofers are distributedabove and below accordingly.I agree, that many of the older, discretely built, amplifiers sound excellent, and I would almost always prefer to listen to oneof them rather than anything modern. Just as the case is with speakers - as mentioned, it seems to be the sound trend of the time.It can make a pleasant sound, well, but the Beomaster 6000/4-channel really doesn't qualify to be up therewith Beomaster 4400 and 8000 in my opinion. It's a great design but in effect it is really nothing more than two Beomaster 901s.Several of the newer, and highly praised, B&O speakers use composite enclosures and cabinets.I'm a bit curious as to how you would improve the Pentas midrange enclosure?And what would be achieved?Martin
Hey Stereomensch,werde es mir merken ;)Hatte Die_Bogener schon angeschrieben, aber warscheinlich auf eine alte Mailadresse, da ich gesehen hatte, dass er wohl hier im Forum nicht mehr wirklich aktiv ist.Ich habe auch nochmal geschaut und meine, dass das die mit den Plastikkappen sind.hier noch ein Foto:
Und ja, du hast die alte Version! :)
Bezüglich Umbauvorschlag:
Schau mal hier:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/17557.aspx?PageIndex=2
Hermann (Hfinette) hat den Umbau gemacht, den kannst du auch sonst mal fragen.
Gruss Christian
Dank dir für den Link!Ich glaube ich habe so ziemlich alles gelesen, was zu dem Thema geschrieben wurde.Anfangs hatte ich das Problem, dass ich mich an dem falschen Diagramm orientiert habe und da so meine konkreten Problemchen hatte.Ich bin auch ehrlich, ich bin kein Elektroingenieur, sondern eher ein Typ mit einem Lötkolben und Interesse.
Jetzt habe ich, wie gesagt, die ganzen alten Roedersteiner durch Jantzen MKPs ersetzt und höre den Unterschied.Was Dillen sagt, kann ich (zumindestens bis jetzt) bestätigen. Durch den Umbau der MKPs habe ich einen Verlust des Warmen Sounds. Die Höhen sind prägnanter geworden und das wollte ich auch, aber der "Verlust" ist ganz klar in den Mitten und in Tiefen.Ich überlege momentan wieder die alten (falls ich sie nicht beschädigt habe) in den Tiefenbereichen einzubauen, oder die Verbindungen, ich habe hier Silber verwendet, durch Kupfer zu tauschen. (Ist für mich eigentlich Schwachsinn, aber vllt. sind die Kabel auch einfach zu dünn).oder ich mache weiter und baue á la Die-Bogener um (wozu ich auch tendiere).Die Hochtöner werde ich erstmal nicht wechseln, es sei denn, ich finde zufällig ein Paar in der Bucht.Hattest du die Pentas vor und nach dem Umbau gehört?Was hast du alles geändert? Welcher Unterschied war dann?Viele GrüßeKaya
You really should compare MKPs to fresh electrolytics - not to old and worn out electrolytics.
@dillencan you recommend which ones?
Dillen:I am not questioning Die_Bogeners skills and knowledge at all.As mentioned, I have actually adopted a few of his ideas, and I have sent several B&O owners, asking for repairs in Germany, to him over the years.He may like the sound of Pentas fitted with MKP capacitors and recommend it to others.I just don't.
That is perfectly fine. It just seems sometimes that people tend to forget rather quickly. Many of the old threads and in particular the pictures are unfortunately no longer available. But Die_Bogener was one of the most active, creative, and knowledgable contributors. Admittedly very few members formerly kindly asking for his advice are putting the exact same ideas and contributions they used to appreciate so much earlier now down. That is a bit irritating to me as far as trustworthiness is concerned. I am not particularly addressing you, not the least in fact, but I have observed such a tendency in general. I, however, can still very well remember the times when Die_Bogener was more active on here and many were still reaching out for him, asking for his advice, and having nothing but praise for his ideas and contributions.
Dillen:Despite many people wanting it to be - or wishing that it was - Penta was never an audiophile speaker.It wasn't intended to be and it won't be unless drastically redesigned, which in my opinion would be a shame.Penta is in my opinion one of the most beautiful speakers ever built, and it's an excellent speaker in itsown right, with an absolutely pleasant and nice sound.The engineers did their best with their knowledge, experience and not least the limitations of the design they were presented with, andclearly they must have faced a couple of challenges in the process; Cabinet volume and width quickly springs to mind.Usually the drivers are the most difficult parts as their T/S parameters often seem to call for cabinet volumes that just cannotbe granted, resonance points etc. but B&O had some drivers custom produced and ended up with what I think is a more thanacceptable result, considering the design.I'm sure they would have liked to introduce a 10-inch woofer somewhere, - it just couldn't be done, so they settled fora group of four 5-inch drivers (pairing identical woofers is something that many speaker designers warn against doing, but somethingthat B&O have managed to succeed in since the 1970s (4700/P45/RL60,140 etc.)
I totally agree, and we are probably in a minority on that, but Penta is an astonishingly beautiful speaker. I have thought multiple times about swapping to Beolab 1s or Beolab 9s, but just couldn't convince myself that overall this will really be an improvement. I find Pentas to be utterly beautiful, but know many that will totally oppose that point of view. As far as Pentas being audiophile of not, it all depends. I prefer my M75s, but Pentas are a damn nice sounding speaker for what they are. Still one of the best in B&O's portfolio of active speakers if you ask me. Their strengths particularly shine when playing loud.
Dillen:I agree, that many of the older, discretely built, amplifiers sound excellent, and I would almost always prefer to listen to oneof them rather than anything modern. Just as the case is with speakers - as mentioned, it seems to be the sound trend of the time.It can make a pleasant sound, well, but the Beomaster 6000/4-channel really doesn't qualify to be up therewith Beomaster 4400 and 8000 in my opinion. It's a great design but in effect it is really nothing more than two Beomaster 901s.
Ok, this is the tricky part. First, I was talking built quality, not sound quality. And built quality of the 6000 Quad ranks definitely up there in my book. However, as far as sound quality is concerned, I don't agree. I have owned roughly 10 Quads and stated before on the forum what sometimes seems to be forgotten. First, there are different generations of the Quad that showed remarkable differences electronically. The last generation for example didn't reduce volume when switching to double stereo, whereas the first generation did. Second, some of my Quads sounded surprisingly different. For example, one played as lound on volume 5 as some others did on volume 10. And no, there were no electronic defects. The Quad was B&O's first 4-channel receiver apparently and they were still experimenting with the design. Therefore, many more or less significant differences exist between individual models. There was no serial production back then. Individual examples were not entirely standardized. To make a long story short, I figured that there are well sounding Quads that for me rank up there with the other receivers named. However, they are few. What is more, replacing capacitors didn't do much good to the sound on the Quad. But that is just my experience. Of the many examples I have owned, I still possess one that is totally restored but with the original capacitors still fitted wherever possible. Needless to say that it is the example that outperformed all the others I have had, no matter whether fully resored with capacitors replaced or not. It is one of the last made and presumably was hardly used by the previous owner. Whether this is generalizable, I do not know.
My friend who helps me with the restaurations of the Quad and has done many (>20) was pretty surprised by the statement that the Quad essentially is two 901s in one cabinet. This information is repeated over and over again on here, but he doesn't agree. What is more, he actually likes the 901 very much as far as built quality, electronic design, and performance is concerned. Therefore, even if the Quad essentially was two 901s combined, that is not necessarily a bad thing.
Dillen:Several of the newer, and highly praised, B&O speakers use composite enclosures and cabinets.I'm a bit curious as to how you would improve the Pentas midrange enclosure?And what would be achieved?
The design is functional. But so are the Beogram 7000 etc. designs. It is just cheaply made.
My B&O:
Moin,
Ich habe nun die Pentas länger laufen lassen und habe so ziemlich alles gehört, was ich gut kenne, sodass ich mir einen Eindruck machen kann (Wohlgemerkt immer alles Subjektiv).Von "Eagles - Hell Freezes Over", über "Brian Bromberg" bis hin zu Nicolas Jaar etc. Meistens direkt von Platte oder via Flac vom Rechner. Ich könnte jetzt noch mehrere Alben aufzählen, das wäre aber am Thema vorbei.
Naja, was soll ich sagen...Irgendwie verfliegt das vorherige Vermissen der "Wärme". Genau kann ich es aber auch nicht beschreiben. Entweder mussten sie sich einspielen und haben tiefen dazugewonnen, oder ich nehme sie mit der Zeit anders wahr.Als ich die Pentas frisch stehen hatte, habe ich sie direkt mit den M70 verglichen und die waren viel präziser. Sie haben eine ganz andere "Auflösung vom Bühnenbild" gehabt, was ich dann als Potential gesehen habe, da sie wirklich nicht so gut geklungen haben.Mittlerweile spielen sie allerdings ziemlich Ähnlich.Der tausch der Kondensatoren war somit genau richtig. Ob es jetzt MKPs oder normale Bipolare Elkos sein sollten, war mir garnicht mal so wichtig. Es ging eher darum, den relativ dumpfe Klang zu beseitigen (Was wohl daran lag, dass die Kondensatoren tatsächlich Ihren Zenit überschritten hatten).Durch viel Internetrecherche kam ich dann auf den Mod von Die_Bogener, wobei die Bilder leider fehlten. Interessiert hatte es mich dennoch, gerade weil so viele darüber berichtet haben.Ob ich es noch umsetzte bleibt fraglich. Bin ganz froh darüber, sie revidiert zu haben, ohne dass etwas schief ging :)Optimieren kann man da ja immer noch.
Irgendwann wird trotzdem der Moment kommen, wo ich mich frage, ob sie ohne die MKPs besser geklungen hätten. Das kann ich nicht ändern und liegt auch eher in -meiner- Natur. Ob ich sie dann wieder zurück baue oder so lasse, kann ich jetzt nicht beantworten.Stereomensch bzw. Christophe hatte die Idee mit dem DSP, mit dem ich jetzt versuchen ein bisschen rum zu testen. Dazu werde ich mir den minidsp 2x4 ("hd" oder nicht "hd" werde ich später entscheiden) holen und und mir einen Adapter bauen, damit Powerlink trotzdem noch funktioniert, denn auf das Display möchte ich nun wirklich nicht mehr verzichten.Ich danke euch allen, für die eure Hilfe und finde es schön, dass für die Pentas noch so viel Passion übrig ist.Werde weiterhin berichten, wie es weitergeht und welche Erfahrung ich mit dem DSP mache.Vielen Dank / Thank You!Kaya
also ich habe folgende Sachen gemacht:
1. Gummi-Sicken für die Mitteltöner
2. Weichen und Verstärker von einem Techniker überprüfen lassen.
Fehlende Höhen habe ich nicht, aber ich habe auch die letzte Version mit dem anderen Hochtöner.
Mich stört eher, dass die Pentas nicht so tief gehen wie die Redline 7000 Lautsprecher.
Und die sind auch nicht so tief!
Gruss C