ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I need the #23 PCB (8001090B) for Penta MKII. I´m also intressed in if anyone has the plastic display covers for Penta MKII for sale.
Why do you need the new PCB. It can normally be repaired.
I have one of the ugly yellow display covers which I don't use. Where are you located?
I suggest you make your own. Like this.
//Bo.A long list...
I´ve checked the big capacitors and the seem to be ok. The other components aren´t that easy to diagnose so I thought it would be easier just to replace the whole card. Do you have any ideas here?
Where did you buy the acrylplast? I´m surely gonna make covers like the ones you´ve made. How do you get them to stick?
Regarding the PCB's I had also problems with them. I had to change the capacitors, and also there where some broken leads and solder joints. Some of them where where very difficult to see. I had to use a microscope.
I bought the acrylic plastic at Clas Ohlson.
Ok, then it´s off to get the microscope tomorrow along with a visit to Clas i sjön.
On your pics i your cloths looks very nice. are they original or have you changed them. If so, where did you get them?
The black paint on the plastic details is also nice, but I´m a little afraid of painting on such surface. Will it really stick with regular spray paint or did you prime with something?
McGruse: Ok, then it´s off to get the microscope tomorrow along with a visit to Clas i sjön.
Reflow all joints with new solder, they are really not that many. Probably much more efficient than a microscope.
/ Johan
McGruse:On your pics i your cloths looks very nice. are they original or have you changed them
I bought the cloth at Biltema
McGruse:Will it really stick with regular spray paint or did you prime with something
I just cleaned with "T-Röd" and then painted with regular spray
Johan:Reflow all joints with new solder, they are really not that many. Probably much more efficient than a microscope.
I did that first but it didn't solve my problem. Then I found some broken traces at the contacts, with help of a USB-microscope. They tend to move when you connect/disconnect the card
BO: Johan:Reflow all joints with new solder, they are really not that many. Probably much more efficient than a microscope. I did that first but it didn't solve my problem. Then I found some broken traces at the contacts, with help of a USB-microscope. They tend to move when you connect/disconnect the card
Sure, I didn't mean it would definitely be the issue, just that those joints are old and ugly looking for the most part so reflowing them is probably a good idea anyway and thus a quick and easy place to start. If that doesn't fix it, then of course you have to go look for other things.
In that case a microscope is a nice thing to have.
Look alright.
This is my card. Looks ok except for the "frosted" areas. Maybe there are some creepage there. Think I´m gonna clean it and resolder all joints.
What does your picture show BO?
My card looked alright but...This was my card at a close-up.
Can´t find anything wrong with it visibly. Must be one of the components. Could a capacitor detect ok on a multimeter and still be defect?
How did you, BO, remove the middle plastic trim, that goes around the the tower as a lengthening of the display, for painting? The stainless steel is sort of in the way for removing.
McGruse:Could a capacitor detect ok on a multimeter and still be defect?
It depends on how advanced the multimeter is. To be sure I would recommend an ESR meter.
McGruse:The stainless steel is sort of in the way for removing.
BTW, are You sure the the fault is located to the specific board?
McGruse:How did you, BO, remove the middle plastic trim, that goes around the the tower as a lengthening of the display,
Yes, I have combined all the cards along with the other working Penta´s and come to that conclusion
I managed to remove the trim now, thanks.
When I control a capacitor I measure that it instantly leads DC-current and then stops doing it by measuring its resistance. Right?
Btw, I bought the "Biltema-cloth" and it really looks great. Thanks for that tip. But making my own display cover wash´t that easy really. It was hard to get it really precise.
McGruse:When I control a capacitor I measure that it instantly leads DC-current and then stops doing it by measuring its resistance. Right?
I suggest that you exchange all the electrolytic capacitors on the board.
McGruse:But making my own display cover wash´t that easy really. It was hard to get it really precise.
Nice to hear of a happy ending.