ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello All,
I am a relatively new B&O fan; when I found my dad's old turntable in the basement several months ago I became interested in vinyl and vintage hi-fi. While searching around on eBay I found the wonderful world of B&O and quickly became interested in the 5000 series of separates. Fast forward several months and I now own a Beomaster 5500 and it's MCP. I got a really good price as I bought as/is and I think I got really lucky since most everything works.
But, there is a catch - this is why I need help. There are 2 issues, 1 with the Beomaster and one with the MCP. The issue with the Beomaster is the left channel on speaker 1. Only the left channel on speaker 1, not speaker 2. When I got the unit, if I fiddled with the speaker plug I was able to get some sound for a couple of seconds but it was intermittent and there were artifacts in the sound. Now the left channel on speaker 1 doesn't work at all so I'm stuck using the speaker 2 output.
I just finished a repair on the MCP cleaning out a horrible case of battery corrosion that hopefully fixes my problem so I won't detail it now. Also, since it is drying out in my garage for the next 24 hours, I can open up the Beomaster if need be.
I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced these issues before. I did a lot of googling but it doesn't seem that there is anybody with my specific issue. Also, I can't really afford much (I'm 14 :) so I would prefer to fix it myself and stay away from buying a replacement/donor unit. About the MCP, I will update the thread as I put it back together.
Ryan Mitchell
(PS - how much should a Beolink 1000 go for in the US? Carrying around a huge remote is kind of a pain :)
Welcome to Beoworld !
Replace the muting relay. It's a standard fault and we've discussed it several times here on Beoworld.I can supply the relay (email me) if you cannot find one elsewhere.
Martin
Hi Ryan, welcome to the forum!
It would not be unheard of to have a problem with the speaker sockets themselves. But most likely it is another classic problem, the mute relay (you'll find plenty on that on the forums if you search). That would only affect the Speaker 1 connections. Sometimes it gets better if you just exercise the mute function a lot, the contacts tend to oxidice if they are not used. But often the only real cure is to replace the mute relay.
The MCPs are quite robust apart from the too common problem of leaking batteries. Let's hope it turns out fine after you put it back together!
--mika
Hi guys,
I had read a lot about the mute relay issues before I bought the unit. Logically I thought that the relay probably had 1 set of contacts and therefore that couldn't be it since the left channel worked (my electrical knowledge is limited and mostly theoretical) but I opened it up just to make sure and indeed it had 2 sets of contacts. I plugged it in and exercised the button and to my surprise now the left and right speaker 1 channels will go in and out. I do feel a little dumb right about now :)
About the relay, my dad says that relays that look like the one in question were mounted on sockets back in the day. Is the mute relay on a socket? I would hate to have to solder a new one in as I couldn't even get the amplifier's fan housing off. Sorry if this is a stupid question by the way, I don't usually do electrical work!
Ryan
The muting relay is not under the fan housing, it sits near the socket bay, under the flip-up tuner board.The relay nearest to the large transformer is the amplifier power relay - it rarely fails because the current ithandles is much higher, burning though eventual oxidation. This also causes black deposits to build up atthe inside of its clear plastic housing and it looks burned from outside but it will be fine.
Cleaning the contacts will only last for some time. The ultra thin platinum contact material has scars fromoxidating by airs moisture and arcing from electricity.Look at it in a microscope and you will see the moon surface.Using abrasives will remove the contact material. Only lasting solution is to replace the relay.
The relays are never in sockets in these machines.
Ryan:how much should a Beolink 1000 go for in the US? Carrying around a huge remote is kind of a pain :)
A Beo4 would also control it. Maybe $50-$75 for a Beolink 1000; $100 for a Beo4. Just check eBay.
About the MCP, don't forget:
1) to clean the IR window and the IR leds,
2) to replace capacitors.
My own MCP has had the same alcaline batteries for almost two years, but prior to that, they would die quickly (caps) and lacked power (cleaning). The "no contact" beacon would be lit unless the panel was at about 2 metres from the BM.
Jacques
Dillen: The relays are never in sockets in these machines. Oh well, so much for that. I did figure out which relay it was the first time through (towards the back of PCB3), I was saying that since I couldn't figure out how to get the fan housing off that I would have a hard time getting to the solder side of the board. I think that I'll just let the relay be for now though. This morning when I went to check up on the MCP and clean off the glass and aluminum I scratched off some of the black paint on the underside of the glass, so this just goes to show that some how I always mess up a repair. I think I'll take black nail polish to it, as I've seen that done to the Beocenter 9000 series. MediaBobNY: Just check eBay. I have been looking around on eBay for different things but prices are all over, I've seen a BL1000 sell for $25 but then there was one on a Buy-It-Now for $100, so I just wanted to make sure I didn't overpay if I bought anything. chartz: About the MCP, don't forget: 1) to clean the IR window and the IR leds, 2) to replace capacitors. Yes, just cleaned the IR windows and leds. About the caps, I'm not very confident with my soldering skills so unless I notice range degradation I don't think I will be changing them. Thank you all for your help, and Martin - sometime in the near future I will probably order that mute relay as I think I might be adding another set of speakers at some point, or a Link Room.
Oh well, so much for that. I did figure out which relay it was the first time through (towards the back of PCB3), I was saying that since I couldn't figure out how to get the fan housing off that I would have a hard time getting to the solder side of the board. I think that I'll just let the relay be for now though. This morning when I went to check up on the MCP and clean off the glass and aluminum I scratched off some of the black paint on the underside of the glass, so this just goes to show that some how I always mess up a repair. I think I'll take black nail polish to it, as I've seen that done to the Beocenter 9000 series.
MediaBobNY: Just check eBay.
Just check eBay.
I have been looking around on eBay for different things but prices are all over, I've seen a BL1000 sell for $25 but then there was one on a Buy-It-Now for $100, so I just wanted to make sure I didn't overpay if I bought anything.
chartz: About the MCP, don't forget: 1) to clean the IR window and the IR leds, 2) to replace capacitors.
Yes, just cleaned the IR windows and leds. About the caps, I'm not very confident with my soldering skills so unless I notice range degradation I don't think I will be changing them.
Thank you all for your help, and Martin - sometime in the near future I will probably order that mute relay as I think I might be adding another set of speakers at some point, or a Link Room.
Ryan:I have been looking around on eBay for different things but prices are all over, I've seen a BL1000 sell for $25 but then there was one on a Buy-It-Now for $100, so I just wanted to make sure I didn't overpay if I bought anything.
No bids on this one ending tonight with a $28 starting bid. Untested but seller says he'll take it back if DOA.
Well, just put back together the MCP. Bad news, the problem is worse now for whatever reason. There are lights in the display that flicker when they aren't supposed to be on. For example, when adjusting the bass or treble, even when it is zeroed out several of the green ticks flicker, and the 11 flickers when AUX is selected as a source. This is not the extent of the issues either. Anyone have any recommendations? Also noticing range degradation - probably jinxed myself by deciding not to replace those caps.
They're known to be power hogs and deplete batteries very quickly. Not sure if this could be the cause.
MediaBobNY: They're known to be power hogs and deplete batteries very quickly. Not sure if this could be the cause.
My MCP was a Battery killer, cleaning and changing caps did it, if you cant solder or do it your self, you are lost. Get something to train on. like an old PCB, soldering is not difficult, just need some experience, and listen to the guys here on the forum, I never got a bad advise from them.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I'll see about replacing caps in the future, first I would like to fix the issue at hand. Sorry for not updating the thread, but I was extremely busy yesterday. That said, late last night I thought there might be excess moisture inside the MCP so I took a hair dryer to the display PCB and that solved my issue, albeit only for a couple of hours. However, I woke up this morning and hit the status button, to find the MCP unresponsive. I pressed really hard, and the recording light came on, followed by no input. Some of the buttons perform different commands then they are supposed to, so it doesn't seem much like a moisture issue now. I think I will put it in a bag of rice today though. Any other ideas?
EDIT: I checked the voltages of the batteries and they are totally fine, all check out at 1.5V.
I've had the same batteries for two years now. They still work, but I occasionally get a "no contact" warning message. Time for replacement!
Anyone know why a beomaster 5500 will come on and cut out and flash an F letter?