Yes, another CX100 question...

Im refoaming my Cx100, any there are tonnes of posts and how too's outthere so im not gonna bore you with that stuff again.

My question is: must the drivers themselves be removed from the cabinets to refoam.. all the posts and step by step guides the drivers have been taken out, but why? it all seems to be workable with the drivers left in their place..

 

When i look at the drivers and how they are set in the kabinett it lokks like there is some greenresin of sorts to create a tight seal, wouldn't realy like to mess with that if i don't need to.

any comment?

When I did the refurb om my CX100 and C75´s I removed the drivers because of the old foam that had turned into goo. To get it properly done I wanted it removed as good as possible. I think it can be done without removing them but it might be trickier. To remove the drivers you also have to desolder the cables from them, because they are not mounted by jumpers.  

The drivers are fitted with gaskets! If yours have green resin then that is non standard.

I would suggest that you remove them and do the job properly.

Garten:

My question is: must the drivers themselves be removed from the cabinets to refoam.. all the posts and step by step guides the drivers have been taken out, but why? it all seems to be workable with the drivers left in their place..

I suppose you don't have to, but it has to be a better practice to remove the driver. You're going to want to press the two parts together after applying adhesive. Best to have access to the back of the cone during that step.

My middle name is properly.. so out they will go! the green resin seems to be behind the mounting of the drivers, on the side of the raise metal fitting that the driver is screwed onto.

 

The gasket itself seem to be some kind of cellplasti, as all the talk about airtightness and infinite baffle principle, do these gaskets need to be replaced? nobody seems to mention this in they guides either?

 

Wierd thing is also that one of the youtube clips on how to refoam, uses some kind of spinnning wheel.. very professional, seems german, in anycase, what they don't do in that clip is any of the shims method stuff or clothspeg centering etc etc,, yet they don't mind na ddon't seem to think of it as a problem...

Am i missing an important understanding in the centering business... i ordered the kit and prepared myself for carving up the dustcap and all that.. 

The foam rings now, are just goo, like they melted... 

my kit arrives in a few days, so im prepping :=) 

 

Take care with the black goo! It gets everywhere and it is almost impossible to remove from anything fabric like clothes, floor coverings, furniture or white frets!!!

Clean white frets in the dishwasher when your wife/partner is out!.

Remove the 4 screws that secure the driver, disconnect the wires (Note which terminal they were connected to!) and remove the driver. Remove the gasket carefully from the back of the driver.

Now you can start getting rid of the black goo!

thanks, yes she is a bit protective of the dishwasher... i tried some parts from my Saab once.. there was trouble...

 

So the resin then (as seen in the pic below) is nothing i need bothering with.. are the gaskets to be replaced? most guide outhere don't mention this at all... so I assume they can be left as they are if they hold together?

the rest seems pretty straight forward apart for the centering business,

its these Youtube guys.. they dont center or mess about.. is the consensus view here that they are not doing a proper job of it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zV6s3_Cb0xg

 

Hi All,

 

So progress on the CX's 

Would you say this is clean enough, im sweating heaps trying to scrape more goo from them without ripping the cone...

also (an item the guides don't mention) the outer rim seems to be a raised ring of some sort of compressed cardboard, which i in the beginning though was part of what shall be removed, before i started doubting this... should this be removed?? else as you can see i got to make a groove in it about 1 cm in lenght, cut it down perhaps half a mm, do you think this will cause the ring not to adhere correctly when mounted with glue?

Doing this for the first time, its a challange and there are a lot of unchartered details.... 

 

The cardboard ring on the edge of the metal basket is for putting the cone (voicecoil, spider, surround) at ease axially.
The coil former etc. hangs in the spider and the surround. If these are not working in parallel, the cone will be difficult to move axially.
Any pre-tension of the surround would be a problem.

I suggest you leave the ring in place and glue the new surround to it, just like the factory did it.
It should all fit well together. With the new surround glued to the cone, it's outer lip should be just touching the cardboard ring when everything is at ease.
If not, you've bought bad surrounds.

Martin