ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello everyone,
Well a few weeks ago I didn't own a single piece of B&O... I have now officially got the bug and own 3 sets of speakers, a Beomaster 901, Beogram 1202 and a Beogram 1102... and have no idea why!
Anyway, back to the question in hand! I have just bought some Beovox 1702 speakers but one of the speakers does't work properly. It sounds as though there is still some bass there but it's very muffled and a bit distorted. The speaker cables have been shortened in the past but I don't think this has anything to do with it unless i'm mistaken?
I'l need to get inside to have a look but have no idea how to get the fronts off as they don't seem to 'pop off' like the later models. Has anyone got any suggestions as to how to get the fronts off without causing damage? Also, if you have any ideas as to why the sound is muffled/distorted then i'd appreciate any help!
Thanks everyone.
The front grills are glued to the aluminium trim.Insert a wide spatula between the cloth and alu trim and lift the cloth up gently, just a little.Work your way around the cloth, lifting gently little by little a couple of rounds and eventually it will come off.When you put it back on, add 4-5 dabs of contact glue, not more or you will have a hard time getting in there again.
Beovox 1700 and 1702 are some of my own favourite speakers from that period.Wonderful pleasant sound from the size, much more "alive" in my opinion than the later CX speakers.I use a pair of Beovox 1702 in my repairshop.
Martin
Hi Martin,
Yes I've had them hooked up to my beomaster 901 and the one that works produces a really nice sound... Probably nicer than the s25's I have also got!
Just one question, when you say 'contact glue' what do you mean? Any brands in particular you would recommend using... As I said I'm still a beginner with all this!
You can use almost any glue. Something like Evostick (I think it's called in the UK).Just not too much or it will be a headache when they have to come off again some day.I normally place a drop in each corner and one centered along each long side making 6 dabs in total.
The Beovox 1702 woofers have a tendency to develop bad connections where the flexwirespass through the speaker cone. An easy fix with a soldering iron and a little DIY skill.Round off with a dab of glue here too, to stablize the repaired area.
Wonderful speakers, indeed.
Thanks for your help, i'm just in the process of re-glueing the tweeter magnet as it had come loose... i'm also planning to re-finish the veneer and replace the speaker wire as someone has made a real mess of them! They've cut them down to a couple of feet then attached some random din connections to the end... can't be doing it any good!
I just wondered if you are able to give me some advice regarding the wires. I've got some old speaker wires from some S25s that have broken so i'm planning on re-cycling the din leads from those. Do you know how long the speaker cables should be on the 1702s? I only say this as some people say that it can effect the sound quality.
Thanks again,
Rich
These are fairly low-wattage speakers so cable length is not a serious issue.If you stay with 2x 0,75mm2 leads you can easily make the cables 20 meters or more without any loss.The original length was apprx. 2,5 meters.
I'm guessing the cables from the S25's should be suitable as far as you know?
They'll be fine.
Hi Martin, sorry to to bother you again but your experience is invaluable!
I'm having a slight problem in that one of the subwoofers bass is very slightly distorted compared to the other one... and i'm sure it's slightly quieter to. All the connections inside seem ok.
When I first looked inside the speaker, the magnet from the tweeter had fallen and attached itself to the subwoofer magnet below and i'm just wondering if this is likely to have dislodged the sub magnet and is causing the voice coil to scrape every so slightly? I fixed the tweeter by re-glueing the magnet in place using shims but wondering if you think it's worth trying to take apart and re-glue the subwoofer magnet. I can't really think of what else is causing the bass to distort slightly unless you have any ideas?
Thanks again.
Rich.
Your questions are welcome.
Woofer distortion in Beovox 1702 is almost always caused by intermittent connection(s)where the flexwires meet with the copper leads on the cone.Typically, there will be continuity in the cones resting position but in other positions, slightly out and/orslightly in, continuity is lost.Test it in different positions using a multimeter (ohmmeter).
However, if you can feel a rubbing when you move the cone in and out (carefully) by hand,the problem is mechanical, a damaged coil and/or dislocated magnet/centerpiece.
I've just bought a multimeter but still learning how to use it! How do I test the speaker in different positions using the meter and what am I looking for In the readings?
Cheers, rich
The other thing I forgot to mention was that the 'working speaker' (I.e the one that sounds fine) seems more responsive than the other. For example, when I switch the amp on... The working speakers cone jumps but the other one doesn't? Also, when I turn the volume up and down, the broken speaker sometimes crackles.
Not sure if that's helps in any diagnosis?!
r
Dillen:Beovox 1700 and 1702 are some of my own favourite speakers from that period.Wonderful pleasant sound from the size, much more "alive" in my opinion than the later CX speakers.I use a pair of Beovox 1702 in my repairshop.
This is all the more reason to have a set.
I want 1702's SO badly!!! ...........................Must resist.............
Beo4 'til I die!
Hi Martin, I have just found this forum and this thread as I wanted to know how to get at the input wire connections as they appear to have come loose on one of th speakers. I have followed you advice on removing the front and have done that. I have carefully lifted out the lower speaker to reveal a back and red lead and lots of felt(?) padding. The input wire enters from the rear of the speaker, is there a way to reach the connection from the rear or do I have to remove the padding from the front? I would really appreciate your advice and hope you are still active on ths forum. Best regards, Gerry
All access to the innards is through the woofer hole at the front.Felt...? Well, the sound dampening material inside (if it's the original fluffy stuff) can be pushed aside or pulledout to access the filter board etc. Just put it back again when done.