ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hallo B&O fans,
As running powerlink wires around my linving room is a bit of a challenge would I be able to power my Beolab 4500 speakers which I use as rear on my Beovision 8-40 with a set of Wireless 1?
Help much appreciated.
According to the product pages on Beoworld and the user manual you should be able to:
http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=1028
http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/manuals.php?product_range_id=36
Only the earlier BL3500's were a problem.
I have 4500's as fronts with my BV7_55 but they are wired as they are so close.
Your BV8_40 has Masterlink so I can't see an issue. I don't know if it supports the display or not?
Dave.
One thing that is important to note if you have not already purchased the Wireless 1s is to ensure BOTH (or all if you plan to use more than two) are running the same software version or they will not connect.
It is not a problem to get them upgraded at your dealer but if they already run the same software version it takes out the hassle and any extra cost for the upgrade. My dealer in Exeter was very helpful and upgraded one of my Wireless 1s for free.
Also, can say that I have 3 sets of speakers round the house and garden running on Wireless 1s and most of the time it is brilliant but my new WiFi router can interfere and the speakers just cut out (but don't turn off) so you have to turn the speakers (not the Wireless 1) off using the red dot and choose your source again. I have just found that I can choose a channel on my router so last night I set it to a channel rather than auto and it seems to interfere less (so hoping it remains that way)
95% of the time they are perfect but they can be susceptible to microwaves too (the kitchen speaker is a bit flakey if I'm doing a cuppa soup ) but when they work I don't believe you can tell they are not wired!
Stoobie
I assume you can do this, but you're not going to get "rear" sound from them, but rather, you're going to get some type of stereo TV sound. They receive the audio from whatever the TV is output to MasterLink, and I don't think there is a way to have a TV just output the "rear" audio to ML.
Stan
Stoobie, I have the same experience. My router is locked on a high channel and doesn't seem to interfere. The only thing that will is if I run the microwave for a longer period of time it will blow them offline, then as you say you just turn off and on again and they reconnect. Ditto about the same s/w version, absolutely required. Be that all as it may I don't think it will solve the original poster's problem. You can't just hack the ML cable/connector to add a surround output as the ML audio signal is a balanced line level signal, so you have +, -, and gnd for each of the two channels.
Jeff
I'm afraid I'm recovering from the BeoVirus.
The Wireless 1 provides a wireless MasterLink connection.
For comnnecting the rears you need PowerLink connection.
3d party solution:
http://almando.com/index.php/b-o/almando-wireless-powerlink-set-26.html?___store=endkunde_eng&___from_store=endkunde_eng
If it is worth the money? You decide it!
I have no personal experience with it.
MM
There is a tv - and there is a BV
BeoNut since '75
elephant:Jeff and Stoobie - what channels are you using ? I think my recent upgrade is giving my Wireless 1s conniption fits !
Hi, I'm using Channel 6 on my router and things seem far better but it has only been two days.
Stoobietoo: elephant:Jeff and Stoobie - what channels are you using ? I think my recent upgrade is giving my Wireless 1s conniption fits ! Hi, I'm using Channel 6 on my router and things seem far better but it has only been two days. Stoobie
I've got mine set to channel 11. It's a Netgear dual band router. I actually set it to that when I was trying to solve a streaming problem with my Playmaker (which turned out to be a process on the PC that interrupted network communications rather than an overall networking or PM problem). I also am fortunate that I live on a 3 acre lot so I can never even see my neighbors routers, or if I do it's less than 1 bar of signal strength.
Just a quick update! All seems to be working with Wireless 1 stability since my last posting. I chose Channel 6 at random but everything seems more stable since setting the router to a channel rather than leaving it on auto. There are usually 1 to 2 neighbours routers showing in the vicinity and despite that, it seems to have sorted the issue.
I have just bought a second Beolab 2000 for by the hot tub. it will be used with a 5th Wireless 1 so lets hope it all remains stable.
Here is my previous "Wireless Beolab 2000" project
And some photos
elephant: Right now I can see 3 neighbours - one of which is a printer ! Perhaps I should print an A4 page saying "flee, all is discovered"
Right now I can see 3 neighbours - one of which is a printer ! Perhaps I should print an A4 page saying "flee, all is discovered"
A good trick would be to rename your wireless router something like Interpol Surveillance Van No. 2...
Jeff:A good trick would be to rename your wireless router something like Interpol Surveillance Van No. 2... Jeff Beovirus victim, it's gotten to be too much to list!
Wire makes things meshy. Its better to use wireless devices, But if you are using wireless thing you need to be technically strong. If you have issue in connectivity you can take help from Epson printers support.
elephant:and so I have 3x2.4GHz on channels 10, 8, and 4. One neighbour is using 8 and the others don't overlap.
You are causing overlap for yourself and your neighbour(s). Only 1,6,11 don't overlap at all, those 'in between' channels should have never been an option at 2.4 as example "channel 2" strongly interferes with channel 1 and "channel 5" strongly interferes with 6 and slightly 1.
Be a good neighbour and only use 1,6,11.
Hi,
MM is correct (as always!) to get the rear audio channels from the TV you need to run the Wireless 1s with Powerlink cables instead of Masterlink, using the rear Powerlink speaker outputs of the TV. Please use fully wired Powerlink mk.2 cables for Wireless 1, on both the transmitter and the receiver:-
https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html#/9-length-18m
Kind regards, Steve.
Steve.
www.soundsheavenly.com
Founder of Sounds Heavenly Cables and Brand Ambassador for Bang & Olufsen
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