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Hello all - in need of some help if anyone can be of assistance!
I bought a supposedly 'working' Beocord 7000 a few weeks back and it arrived powering up but not playing - the playhead was stuck in the cassette. I got a new set of belts from Dillen and have just got round to following Weebyx's excellent guide to replacing them.
However, with the new belts in place it's still not playing. In addition I'm getting some odd symptoms now it's all back together again
If I put a cassette in and press PLAY on the control panel - nothing happens, however if I press PLAY on my Beolink 7000 (or the PLAY button on the front of the Beocord) the playhead engages, tries to play side one then turns to play side two then stops.
<< / >> on the control panel behaves like the PLAY button - nothing happens but it works via the Beolink. Likewise the TURN button on the panel does nothing but on the remote it works. BUT if I press AUTO REC or DOLBY on the control panel they work. Hmmm - can only half the control panel work?
I've taken a short video here so you can see what I'm on about (NB the Beolink is working one-way at the moment until it has it's caps replaced).
Hopefully someone can shed some light for me!?
Sounds like two separate faults:
Check the mounting of the flat belt. If not precisely centered it will creep up or down and block the mech.
Check the cable to the front panel. Look for breaks or other damages and/or bent pins in the connector.
Martin
That looks strange...
Try pressing play without a tape in the unit. The 2 silver axels should start spinning (the left clockwise, the right anti-clockwise) If they are spinning, then the new belt is sitting correct, hovewer, since the unit can FFWD and RWD, I would say that the problem is not the belt.
When you replaced the belt, did you unsolder the PCB ? If so, check the 2 magnetic activators that is solderd on the PCB. They could be stuck somehow ? Also check the detectors for the tape on the PCB, the obes that detects if there is a tape inserted and so on. Those plastic activators can also break, or sit wrong.
Is the sensor PCB for the counter (the one the smallest rubberband activates) correctly installed ?
You will have to open the unit up again, and take a really good look at the unit. Since the tapeheads activates, I would think that at least one activator is working. The whole unit is controlled by a set of gears that again is controlled by the 2 activators. You can manually try to turn the big wheels when you have the unit out, then you can press on the plastic parts the activaters should, and you will see if the tape head engages.
Also, when pressing the tapeheads up manually, there should be a white flat piece of plastic that is pushed upwards. This controls the gears for the axels that runs the tape.. The tapeheads is pushing on a small tap of plastic, this could have broken off ?
But as Dillen is suggesting, check the control panel connector first, try to see if there are any breaks or so ?
It is strange that some of the functions works from the remote, but who knows how the software acts if some sensors are giving mixed signals..
There is only the hard way, open up the unit and remove the plastic, and take a look at how the unit performs mechanically.. Also check the big belt again, check if it is running centered on the wheels..
/Weebyx
Thanks for the reply Weebyx - it's frustrating when something just doesn't work!
I've stripped the deck down and can move forward by eliminating some things:
Firstly I reseated the control panel connecter and all the buttons work again (schoolboy error )
– Both axles spinning and FF RWD working so not the belt it would seem
– Yes, I did unsolder the PCB to replace the belt but as my soldering isn't the best I checked the continuity of the solder joint with a multimeter and this is fine. The magnetic actuators appear ok, they don't seem to be stuck/impeded. The tape detectors were all fine except one (see pic) but I corrected the seating and put everything back together but still no joy
(bigger version here)
– I think so, the sensor is aligned with the magnetic wheel, and I made sure to pay attention to the one on the larger PCB when I resoldered it .
– OK nothing seems 'broken' as far as I can see with regards to the plastic gears but I've taken a couple of photos - can you see anything that looks amiss?
Hmmmm - what could the problem be?!
Hmm, it looks fine on the pictures...
When you engange the tapehead manually, does the metal part just above the right spring, engange the white plastic tip ? And does the 2 plastic parts above the black wheels, move upwards and "unlocks" the 2 black wheels so they move freely ?
In my experience with the 3 BC7000's I have fixed, the flat metal part, dpes not engage the white plastic tip 100%, and the the black wheels are not completelly free to rotate.. I usually fix it by quick glue'ing some of that black shrink'y thingy that is used to isolate wires after soldering, on the white tip, and the heat it up so it will be a bit thicker.. Then the white plastic arms moves 100% away from the black wheels.
Other than that, nothing seems wrong to me in the pictures...
OK - so after a late night fiddling around with the mechanism I gave up and put everything back together again this morning.
And it worked
Not sure exactly what I did but at first it didn't play - then just made a clicking sound and started playing. The TURN wasn't working but then started again, now all seems fine! I've given it a good workout to make sure everything is ok.
Maybe badly seated connectors? Maybe just a mechanism that had been sitting unused for a while? Maybe a knock in shipping had unseated something? Who knows but I'm glad it's now behaving itself!
Thanks @Dillen & @Weebyx for the suggestions - very helpful and no doubt solved a lot of the issues there were!
Great, sometimes things just needs re-assembling ;)
Regarding the white plastic part that you put a bit of heat shrink on - is it the parts that I circled in red?
I recently changed the belts (Thanks, Dillen/Martin for the belts) in my Beocord 7000 and while everything is running great, I do have a ticking sound from the left wheel when I am playing in reverse. Also it seems to have sort of a wobbly/distorting sound. Not beolovely. Any help is appreciated.
Ok - so I took it apart and discovered the right point at the top right white part where there is a little plastic knob/pin. I covered it with a bit of wire plastic, and the deck now sounds as it should without any wobbling. Yay.
However, of course whenever you take old plastic parts apart something always breaks even when you are very carefull, thus the plastic cover broke where two of the screws were supposed to go :-(
So, I wonder if anyone has the plastic cover that covers the tape deck that they'd be willing to sell?
The static discharge for the left capstan bearing is not in a correct position in that photo.The right one is.
Sorry, I re-used the pictures in this thread.
For reference, here is where I put the small wire insulator.
The sound is great. However, after some time, I heard an awful screeching sound, and it comes and goes, and it is definitely coming from the motor - at a point it actually shut itself off. I wonder if the motor can be lubricated by just adding a very small drop of oil on the pin, or if it is the kind where you need to take out the bearings and put them under a vacuum to infuse oil? Anybody knows?
You can add a drop of sinter-oil to the motor bearing that is visible. The inner bearing is diffiult to get to.Did this deck run with wrong belts?
It only ran with the original belts and then the replacement from you.
Did a quick google search on sinter-oil and I am none the wiser - any suggested brands/products. I wouldn't want to use the wrong type.
That's often the problem.The oil in Oilite bearings like this is quite critical, but not a lot of DIY'ers have the good oil SAE30 or any other spindle oil withthe right additives on the shelf, - and if you'll only ever use one or two drops, buying even a small bottle of the right thing can't be justified.The result is, that many people simply use something else, that being whatever they can find, and that's often where more problems arise.Forget WD40, forget 3-in-1 and forget any other "Everyman oil" and whatsitcalled. It will only cause more problems.
Having said all that. Most sewing machine oils are acid-free and rarely damages anything but they tend to evaporate quite quickly so willusually work only for a short time.Enough to confirm the diagnose though, so if you have any you could try that. But only half a drop.Else dismount the drive and bring it to me. I will be able to add a drop or two of the right stuff.
Thanks for the very thorough reply. I will lubricate it with half a drop of sewing machine oil and see if it works (for some time) and when it starts to act up again I will bring it to you :)
That seemed to do the trick. It’s completely silent now