ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I have 2 beocenter 9000's with the same common problem that the cd spins a couple of seconds and then stops.
I've changed the blue cap on one of the beocenter's but no luck yet so i've opened up the other beocenter but the cd board looks very different and there has been some work on it.
High res:frontback
Could someone tell me why this board looks different and what i should change/try on this one. I could only find info about the normal board.
Thanks!
That "blue capacitor" (C2103) must be a blue Philips axial type like the original.That's about the only type that is guaranteed to work in that position.
Replace the remaining electrolytic caps too. They are not that critical where types and brands are concernedbut essential for correct operation.
Martin
I got a VISHAY replacement 33uf 16v like the one that came out of it. Do i need phillips or is vishay good because they bought it or something?
The board above has other blue caps that aren't 33uf
Could you provide a working cap for me?
I use Vishay 33μF/45V blue axial with no probs. I have also seen a lot different servoboards on these, it's normal.
blah-blah and photographs as needed
I would fit a blue axial to make sure but if you are happy with it as-is, then fine.Philips capacitors was sold to BC Components.The earliest batches of blue BC axials also gives a nice scope pattern, maybe they were still Philips products.I don't use Vishay caps.
Thanks, how can i set the lens focus on this board? There is only one potmeter. I adjusted it so it will spin and don't stop for quite a long time. But it's not playing a song.
And how much ohms should the test points give here? It's like 5.6k Ohms instead of 1kOhm on my other bc9000
The adjustments on the servo board should NEVER be touched unless you are pairing the servo board upwith a different laserblock (or know EXACTLY what you are doing).The focus point is found by the electronics, according to the distance to the disc currently being played, it will alsocorrect for non-flat discs on-the-fly.The problem in your deck is most likely not focus related, not at all this complicated but a mere matter of supplyingthe laser with current.Don't power that drive again before setting back the adjustments.There is a huge risk of burning the laser diode.(Actually, the fact that you now can "keep the disc spinning" suggest that you have already set the laser current fartoo high. The job of getting this drive back on track could now easily be quite a task, even for a pro repairer - if atall possible and/or feasible).And you cannot tell "how much ohms" a trimmer has to be set to, it is adjustable to match the conditions givenby the actual components in the given circuit. That's the whole point in having these trimmers.The correct adjustment procedure is found in the service manual(s).Read and do.There is no trial and error methods here.
Martin,
This board looks nothing like the service manual board. As i've only changed the potmeter a milimeter i don't think it's a problem.
The laser still works. But it is obvious there is a lot of work done to the cd player by someone else, so i suggest it's not set correctly.
the service manual says that you should set it to 1kOhms but that isn't possible on my board. Could you provide the right service manual for my unit?
You can find a Philips CDM-2 service manual from web with lot of different servo boards.
aymeric: Martin, As i've only changed the potmeter a milimeter i don't think it's a problem.
As i've only changed the potmeter a milimeter i don't think it's a problem.
What makes you think this ?
aymeric: Martin, The laser still works.
The laser still works.
How do you conclude this ?
aymeric: the service manual says that you should set it to 1kOhms but that isn't possible on my board.
the service manual says that you should set it to 1kOhms but that isn't possible on my board.
No, because you are not using the correct servicemanual for your board version, right ?Instead of guessing and assuming, I suggest you find the correct service manual.And no, I don't have it. Maybe you should look at Philips sites rather than B&O since this is actually a Philips drive.No adjusting will correct an electronic fault.Any changes done to the adjustment(s) will have to be reversed when (if ) the laser function has been restored.
Don't get me wrong; I truely respect owners who wants to have a go at repairing things themselves, I started outthat way myself at the age of ten, but I have an even greater respect for owners deciding the task to be out oftheir league, bringing the things in for servicing by an experienced repairer.And this is meant in the best of ways but it doesn't seem to me that you have neither the correct knowledgeor experience nor the correct tools, instrumentation, test equipment and alignment CDs etc. to do this type of repairs.Do you ?
i'm indeed a beginner but i love to learn myself with a bit of help by you guys to fix this, instead of just getting it fixed.
I love how philips says: to calibrate just turn trimmer 3106 until its ''about' in the center. play a cd and turn the trimmer a bit to the left or the right until '1' shows on the screen. Perhaps it's not that big of a problem then.But its nicely on 50.2mV :)
The blue cap (2103) was changed by someone for a 33uF 50v Radial cap. Changed it back to a Vishay 33uf 16v cap. (perhaps later to 47uf 25v cap).
Should i change the other blue philips caps too? its a 1uF 0M and a 47uF 25V
I should have that CDM manual if you need
50mV sounds about right if the specs are the same for this board version as for many others.Now change C2103 to a blue Philips or BC axial.
Thanks Orava
I'm currently waiting for my phillips and bc caps to arrive. i'll try them both. I've read this manual: http://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/Philips-CD650-CD-Player-Restoration-Repair.pdf and the vishay cap should also work, but i ordered the bc and philips too just to be sure.
aymeric: Thanks Orava I'm currently waiting for my phillips and bc caps to arrive. i'll try them both. I've read this manual: http://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/Philips-CD650-CD-Player-Restoration-Repair.pdf and the vishay cap should also work, but i ordered the bc and philips too just to be sure.
Philips Components was sold to BC who in turn was bought by Vishay. The blue capacitors are all the same animal and will all work.
I am surprised that you can still get them badged Philips as they were unavailable many years ago. The ones I buy are badged BC on the product but are sold by Vishay
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1165421
Regards Graham
I got the 33uf 16v version of that cap you show. But it also should work.What should i check next? i rather don't want to replace every cap, but there are some other blue philips caps.
The record spins for a couple of secs and stops then. Laser is trying to focus and emits a beam.
The cdm-2 has some nice service modes to test the focus 16x, but the beocenter manual says it only focusses 2 times.
Load the YEDS 5 test CD (or similar) and check the cats-eye pattern (if any) on your scope.Look for symetrical eyes, ripple and jitter.Let us know what you see or post a photo of the scope image.
I've done some testing.
When i measure the laser current, while playing a cd (only for a few secs) the current goes from 0mV to 50.9mV for example but it changes about every milisecond. it never goes beyond 52mV but i think it's supposed to stay at one value.
When i put the deck in test mode, the disc spins for a longer time and the current is a steady 50.2mV.
The focus is alright. when i use service mode 2 it will try to focus for 16 times and after the second attempt it's already focused. (at focus the laser has 25mV).
Do you think there are some bad caps because the current isn't steady while playing a cd. I can make a vidoe of my mV meter while playing a cd.
Did not find my "copy" but http://www.hifiengine.com/library/philips/cdm-2.shtml has one free
It worked and here's a image from the scope on 0.5uS/div. doesn't look that neat though. This is in service mode 3 after focusing the lens in service mode 2.
tweaked the scope a bit:
From the service manual of my cdm-2 and servo board.
what should i try next?
Sorry checked, and they Are BC...
Orava: I use Vishay 33μF/45V blue axial with no probs. I have also seen a lot different servoboards on these, it's normal.
Have you checked that capacitor board does not have bad solderings?
Orava,
I'll check that now, but dillen asked for a scope image so i wonder if that looks allright.
I can confirm the vishay cap's work. I've fixed a third bc9000 with replacing only that cap.
I cannot tell the amplitude but the pattern looks fine.Next point would be to check if the signal from the servo board reaches the decoder.
Orava the soldering is fine, i just checked every path with my multimeter (yes that took a long time).
Dillen, thanks for you feedback, i'll check that signal and post the result.
aymeric: Orava the soldering is fine, i just checked every path with my multimeter (yes that took a long time). Dillen, thanks for you feedback, i'll check that signal and post the result.
Yes but there is possibility that when asked current, they do not connect enough. I did once only meter inspect with they looked fine, and afterwards have to solder to cure them.
Martin, the amplitude is about 25mV.
If the decoder is on another board, i don't think that's the problem. I swapped the cd player with a working one and it did work alright. So i suspect it's realy only the service board that's faulty.
Orava i couldn't see any defects on the soldering from close by. I don't think it's good to solder just everything again? I'll try to get a close up to view it better.
Thanks for all the answers!!
25mVpp amplitude is not good if you compare with your own manual scan attachment higher up in this thread, whichmentions 1,2Vpp.
Ah You're right Martin.
Do you think a bad soldering can do this? The voltage on the laser is nicely 50mV. Or could this be a resistor, capacitor problem?
Thanks
As I see it, we're still at square one. No output.The list of possible reasons is practically endless.
Electronics mechanic is an education that takes 3½ years intensive.Skills and experience will then have to be acquired, this takes another bunch of years andstill, diagnosing a fault like this, could prove very difficult even for a trained tech guy.Some types of faults require more of a "certain feeling for things" than a lookup in a textbook andI'm afraid, we've reached a point where I cannot help you any further through the internet.My advice would be to bring it in for service by a trained tech person.Alternatively, replace the CD drive.
Hi
What I meant is that they can measure right and look right, but when in action....
http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/189/75792.aspx#75792
This one did feel ok wihtout any current, when try to start it mech did go just crazy. Arm moves from end to end, random focusing, spinning all the time... After touching with soldering iron everything were fine.
But, if you have cheked these I guess fault is somewhere else.