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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

What to be aware of when buying BeoLab 3?

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Heilemann
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Heilemann Posted: Tue, Jan 14 2014 3:43 AM

I'm thinking of buy a pair of used BeoLab 3, and I'm wondering if there's anything I should be aware of in terms of different kinds of models over the years or anything like that?

Dave Farr
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Dave Farr replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 7:35 AM

Welcome to Beoworld.

Make sure the voltage is correct for your supply/location.

Buy from a reputable seller (i.e. Lifestyle-AV) to ensure you have a limited warranty in case of problems.  You won't get that from a private seller so 'buyer beware'.

Listen to them first to ensure there are no problems at all volumes before you part with your cash.

Condition is all - no damage to Acoustic lens or case and speakers.

Do stands/wall mountings/cables come included?

Be aware of things like eBay scams (offline BIN etc).

Obviously older speakers have older components and may last less time overall so the newer the better.

Dave.

PhilLondon
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I thought I read somewhere that these speakers needed fully cabled Powerlink cables... Can anyone confirm?

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Dave Farr
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Dave Farr replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 7:47 AM

In the products section it states- 'use Semi-Balanced PL cable type MKIII, or fully mounted PL cable'.

Dave.

moxxey
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moxxey replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 9:16 AM

PhilLondon:

I thought I read somewhere that these speakers needed fully cabled Powerlink cables... Can anyone confirm?

I think that's correct. I had some older Powerlink cables and heard hiss. Had to swap them out for thicker shielded cables, if I can remember correctly? Gawd that was years ago now though.

9 LEE
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9 LEE replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 11:26 AM

Due to having IcePower amplifiers they need a Mk3 cable for the extra earth pin, otherwise if you use the standard Mk1 you'll get a buzzing sound in the background.

I always advise Mk2 cables (fully wired) though. Once they are in place you can use any B&O active speaker ever made - plus they are fully shielded.

You can always tell a Mk3 cable from the little moulded triangle on the body of the cable end.

Lee

 

PhilLondon
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PhilLondon replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 11:31 AM

Lee, I believe the MK I and  MK III are the fully cabled cables. The MK I was fully cabled as speakers had a screen so the extra pins were used for the data. Then B&O abandoned the screens on speakers (sadly) and came up with a thinner MK II.

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9 LEE
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9 LEE replied on Tue, Jan 14 2014 11:35 AM

PhilLondon:

Lee, I believe the MK I and  MK III are the fully cabled cables. The MK I was fully cabled as speakers had a screen so the extra pins were used for the data. Then B&O abandoned the screens on speakers (sadly) and came up with a thinner MK II.

Nope. Mk1 and Mk3 are the same thickness (i.e. thin !!) and it's the Mk2 which are pretty thick thanks to being fully wired & shielded.

Mk1 are for non IcePower speakers (for example the BeoLab 6000, early BeoLab 4000, BeoLab 8000)

Mk3 are for IcePowered (for example BeoLab 8002, BeoLab 6002, BeoLab 3)

Mk2 are for everything and can also carry data signals, so are perfect for BeoLab Penta.

Lee

 

PhilLondon
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I stand corrected. Got my wires crossed! Whistle

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tompa
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tompa replied on Wed, Jan 15 2014 10:30 AM

Hi,

Buy a MK2 version not MK1 (or pay much less for it) because MK1 mainchassi in now obsolete and if speaker fail it is very expensive to repair it because it have to be upgrade to mk2 chassi and b&o not pay for exchanged main board

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