ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I finally found Danish oil! Based on tung oil though, not linseed oil. However, still no luck with an oil based wood stain. I will have to order the "old english" online and wait for the delivery... Let's hope that the package from Martin/Dillen will arrive soon to keep me busy 😉
RunieNL: I finally found Danish oil! Based on tung oil though, not linseed oil. However, still no luck with an oil based wood stain. I will have to order the "old english" online and wait for the delivery... Let's hope that the package from Martin/Dillen will arrive soon to keep me busy 😉
I found this about Tung oil. Tung oil based Danish oil may have some driers in it, but read the user manual
Boiled linseed oil has driers added to make it dry much faster than raw linseed oil, which can take weeks or months to dry. The drying is adequate only when the excess is wiped off after each application. Tung oil doesn’t contain driers. It takes two or three days to dry adequately in a warm room when all the excess is wiped off.
It usually takes four or five coats of tung oil, sanded after each, to get a nice even satin sheen. The surface will be rough and spotty until this point. That’s why you have to sand.
Sanding is unnecessary with boiled linseed oil, except after the first coat. Then one or two more coats with a day between each will produce an even satin sheen.
The same number of coats of tung oil will be more water resistant than boiled linseed oil. In fact, boiled linseed oil won’t be water resistant at all. The surface will dull after short contact with water.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I can see that he oil contains white spirit and methanol, are those the driers they are talking about? I could choose between a "normal" danish oil, and from a different brand "improved" danish oil. Both based on tung oil. The difference was that the "improved" danish oil contains more oil and less additives (driers?). I chose the "normal" danish oil. From what I can read I may accidentaly have made the right choice...
This is the product I bought: http://www.rustins.eu/Details.asp?ProductID=743
Do you think it still needs sanding after oiling? Won't I sand off the old english covering up the paint? (at least I hope it will cover up the paint...)
RunieNL: Do you think it still needs sanding after oiling? Won't I sand off the old english covering up the paint? (at least I hope it will cover up the paint...)
After the treatment with Old English I apply the oil and let dry for 24 hours, I then sand light with 200-240 grain and apply oil a second time, let it dry again and polish it with a lint free rag. Old English is very thin and will penetrate into the wood/paint. I had to apply Old English some 5 times before I got it to my liking. I have never tried Danish oil, only Boiled linseed oil
And suddenly I'm the proud owner of, not only a pair of beovox S75's, but also a pair of beovox M70's, a beocord 1101, a beogram 4002 and (the reason why I did this purchase) a beomaster 4000!
it seems that everything is working, except the beomaster. Because I'm now waiting for my recap-kit ordered from Dillen for my S75's, and a bottle of old english that is shipped from America, I'm trying to open up the beomaster now... The bottom looks very clean, but I'm having trouble opening the top. Probably I'm too carefull... I noticed a light humming sound, but no vibration when turned on. No lights. Let's hope that it will start working after a recap job...
Ofcourse this should be in a new thread about the Beomaster, but just a couple of pictures can't harm anyone, can they...
From the outside it really looks fantastic. only very light scrapings in the top veneer.
It really is a BM4000...
It almost looks new on the bottom inside!
On the top it's the same, almost like new!
Except for those capacitors... Hopefully they are the problem
Here BM 4000 and here M70s I will try to get the pics activated on the BM 4000 thread
I'm not sure if I will keep them... I don't own any LP and the M70's are just a little bit too big... Ofcourse I will compare them to the S75's.
Søren Mexico: Here BM 4000 and here M70s I will try to get the pics activated on the BM 4000 thread
That would be perfect! I already looked on those pages, but it was difficult to understand without pictures...
RunieNL: I'm not sure if I will keep them... I don't own any LP and the M70's are just a little bit too big... Ofcourse I will compare them to the S75's.
If you dont want to keep the M70s, dont listen to them, because then you will want to keep them
Søren is right. No knock against the S75's (I own a pair of those as well) but I think the M70's are better.
The Beomaster 4000 is a nice receiver (I have one that I restored a few years ago). I am afraid the humming sound you hear is likely from a typical problem of those units. Their transformer gets noisy with age and I don't believe you can fix it. I have a spare Beomaster 4000 that I never restored because the transformer is just too noisy to make it worth restoring. Since then however I have replaced a bad transformer in a B&O turntable with a new, toroid type transformer. I wonder if a toroid could be ordered that meets the BM4000 power requirements and fits the space. The only other option I know of is to find a donor Beomaster to steal a working transformer from.
-sonavor
RunieNL: I don't own any LP
I don't own any LP
Yet.
Look, I hate to douse your spirits because you seem very excited to have purchased the BM4000. But.....the M70s and BG4002 are both superior to the BM4000 (in my humble opinion, of course).
By the way, my BM4000 is dead quiet. Always has been (knock on wood).
Ok, it has been a while since I've been writing something on the workbench-forum. But that doesn't mean I haven't been busy!
I first thought that I should choose two sides which looked the best when placed in my living room. When I just put all my effort in cleaning just those two sides, it wouldn't be that much work. So I started sanding those two sides with grain 120, to really clean them as deep as I dared. After that, there was some paint gone, but still a lot remaining... There was a big difference between the two speakersA lot more paint on one of them. Maybe I cleaned one a lot better than the other one? Maybe one was painted better, or because of sunlight influences?
As you can see, still a lot of small pieces of paint remaining...
I tried a lot of things to remove the remaining pieces of paint. Staining them with the Old English and a small paintbrush made the wood look very spotty. And it seems that only the wood was getting stained and it didn't effect the paint too much. So I sanded that side clean again.
I also tried staining the whole side with Old English, but it made the wood too dark for my liking, and again, it was staining the wood, not the paint...
So that's when I started using the toothpick-idea Rich suggested, but not with a toothpick but with a sort of steel needle. We call it a punaise or duimspijker, translated it's a thumbnail, is that an English word? It gave enough grip and with the sharp point I could remove the paint quite well. It just was very, very time consuming... The frustating thing was, that every time I thought I finished and I sanded and cleaned the wood, a lot of paint was showing again...
I found out that putting the point of the thumbnail on the edge of a piece of paint, and then "whipping" it out, was the best way. Then light brushing with the softest messing brush I had. Finaly I did all the sides of the speakers that way, so they look nice from every side now!There are only very small pieces of paint showing, but only when you look very close.
They now are already oiled with the Danish oil. After one layer of oil I applied some Old English to hopefully darken the remaining pieces of paint. Then a layer of oil again and some more Old English. A bit of sanding, some more Old English and a final layer of Danish oil.
I'm happy with the result!
They're allowed in the living room again, after months in the garage! (it's a bit dark in the picture, sorry)
Here they are on top of the M70's which are my current speakers until the S75's are recapped.
Coming to that:
I had a look inside the speakers.
What to do now? As Martin (Dillen) told me in a PM when ordering a capacitor-kit, for replacing the capacitors I need to cut the old cap out leaving small stumps of leads to indicate where it sat. Then solder the new cap in place. But how do I get the crossover out? Just cut all the wires? And when installing it again, solder them to eachother again? There seems to be quite some tension on the yellow and orange wire. Is it no problem when I replace the crossover upside down?
I normally desolder the wires at the speakers, at the crossover there is a lot coming together, mark where the wires go, on the crossover do the caps on by one or carefully mark where they go, cut off the old ones no need to desolder
I forgot Top job with the wood
Søren Mexico: I forgot Top job with the wood
For sure. When I recap I almost always replace all the wiring as well. First I make a drawing, then take a lot of photos. You absolutely must check that the polarity of the drivers is marked. If not, make your own markings. Then I remove everything, snipping wires where needed, then do the recap. Solder the new wiring to the crossover, put the crossover back in, pull the wiring out of each driver hole, then solder to drivers, then refasten drivers. Simple, really, but definitely time consuming.
With something like the S40, you could just take out the woofer, snip out the old caps, then put new caps in without taking anything out (or any desoldering).
Really depends on how complex the system is.
I started unsoldering and taking out the drivers and the crossover of one of the S75's, but encountered some small problems:
The rubber surrounding of the woofer is a little bit loose at one point. With what kind of glue do I need to reattatch this?
With trying to unsolder the connections to the drivers, with one driver a connection started to melt! Probably my solderingmachine produces to much heat. So I decided to cut the wires anyway. I don't think this melting would cause any harm, can it?
With the crossover removed, I noticed that the three small magnets in a coil could easily come loose as if they're about to fall out. Ofcourse, I've been turning the speakers a lot in the past months, and it didn't happen, but I don't want it to happen in the future either. With what can I reattached those magnets? What is that stuff they used originally, anyway? I don't recognize it.
Thanks! René
You can glue the small areas of the rubbber surround back onto the basket using any type of glue that will stick to metal and rubber.Cut the wires near the solder tags on the speakers, leaving 2mm of the colored insulation. This will give you a reference for re-mounting.
The "magnets" inside the coils are merely ferrite cores (and not magnets).They merely need to sit inside the coils, so any type of glue able to hold them there will do.Hot glue is easy and fast.
Martin
OK, I just finished one crossover of the S75's, and it really sounds fantastic!!In comparison with the other, the vocals and higher tones sound very clear now, a remarkable difference!
There is the new crossover with the new caps.
I did some "Americanization" with these S75's too...
So now it's only recapping the other one and then it's time to get to work with the BM4000.
I'm thinking of changing the fronts of the S75's though. They look a bit dusty and I think that with new cloth they would just look brand new. But now I'm curious, what colours of fronts are there? Could you post a picture of what you think is the nicest front?
Thanks! René.