ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi
I think it would be great with one post where we can share our "BeoHacks"...
A few examples ...
- Upgrading old passive speakers to active speakers
- Upgrading panels in old Beovision TV's
- Using Bang & Olufsen cabinets for various purposes.
- Adding DAB+ modules to old FM BeoMasters
- Using a BeoSound5 display with a home build computer replacing the BeoMaster5
I would love to see all your creative solutions...
Great Idea and great read when populated I would guess.
For passive to active speakers https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/beocreate-4-channel-amplifier/ looks a good option.
I'm in the process of writing guides and videos on how to add a media player into the old CRT TVs that also works with the beo4 remote etc.
I'm trying to research how to upgrade the STB-Cs in the 90s to -2006 model TVs
good luck with centralising the info
Bristol based B&O fan with a collection including the following: BC9500, Beogram 9500, Beosystem 3, BeoVision Avant DVD 32, AV9000, Beolab 3500, Beolab 3000s, Beolab 4s, Beolab 6000s, Beovox Pentas, Beovox 3000s.
To get started ...
Beovox 2702 speaker with build-in amplifier and bluetooth receiver
Feet are 3D printed in black PLA
Leather handle with brass screws
Ravsted:Beovox 2702 speaker with build-in amplifier and bluetooth receiver
Beovision 5 FHD
Panasonic SD panel replaced with FHD TV from LG
Still fully controlled via Beo4 thanks to Lintronic integration
Read the full end-to-end guide with high resolution photos.
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/41909.aspx?PageIndex=2
Beocom 6000 Bluetooth handset
Beolit 707 Bluetooth
I've done the Beocreate mod on the CX50s and RL6000s (active crossover profiles also available for the S30s).
Setting up the software and testing if everything works... (that other pair of CX50s is waiting for refoaming)
The barrel plug power connector and 4-pin mini-XLR connectors.
Close up of my hack-job which was covered up with the heat-shrinking wire sleeves.
This project was the first time I tried soldering... here I accidentally melted the pin off the plastic connector because I was too slow.
The 4-core mini-XLR cable that connects the speakers together. The cable is a bit thick, but it's really soft/bendy and doesn't hold shape.
The old gasket was a bit chewed up so I cut a new one from white foam.
I didn't follow the instructions and kept the passive crossover and DIN connector just so I could reverse the mod if I ever wanted to. I had to drill a small hole in the bottom left corner for the barrel plug connector. I also unscrewed the wall-mount support and used the hole (which was perfectly sized) for my 4-pin mini-XLR connector which connects the left speaker drivers to the amplifier.
I thought they sounded pretty good in near-field desk setup and in smaller rooms, but the aluminum speaker housing blocks Bluetooth and WiFi signals too much which made them very frustrating to use.
In the end I moved the amplifier into a single RL6000 and removed the Raspberry Pi. Instead of the RPi I made a TOSLINK pass-through connector for the back of the speaker so it could be used in multi-room with a Chromecast Audio, Airport Express, etc. I think it sound really good, I've always wanted to mod the other RL speaker so I could hear it in a stereo setup, but can't really justify the $$$ for that experiment, and I definitely don't need more speakers at the moment.
Beoplay A2Beoplay EarsetBeoplay H6 (Gen 2)Beoplay S3 (pair)Beoplay S8Beovox CX50 (2 pairs)Beovox RL 6000
Cool project.
I have a pair of RL7000 and I have considered making them active + adding a chrome cast audio.
Either mono or stereo. A stand alone RL7000 would be a bit like a retro version of an A9....
I take the liberty to share this photo from user Del16.
A reinvented Beosound 5
Read more here:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/227.aspx?PageIndex=140
Beovision 5 turned into a massive and impressive soundbar.
Made by Deano1979
Full story:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/29233/233161.aspx#233161
Ravsted: Hi I think it would be great with one post where we can share our "BeoHacks"... - Upgrading panels in old Beovision TV's I would love to see all your creative solutions...
I will be trying Ravsted's solution of upgrading the screen on a Beovision 5. I have a break in October so will be doing it then. I will report back with photos. We have bought a 43 inch TV as it is almost impossible to find 42 inch as he used.
Stoobie
"You think we can slap some oak on this thing?"
Wooden slats (DIY) on classic BeoLab's ...
My latest BeoHack
Full story: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/49897.aspx
Hi everybody,
as I have problems with hard wiring every device I have to make some devices wireless.
Today I started to make my BeoLink NL/ML Converter wireless. I can wire all ML devices together in one place (behind my Beovision 7) and the rest is now completely wireless.
Adding wireless NL to the Blink Converter is pretty easy as I used a module from Vonets. Vonets VM300-L Wireless Modul Wifi Bridge Ethernet Wifi Repeater Mini Router Portable Wifi Hotspot Signal Access Point RJ45 LAN Adapter für DIY Professionelle Netzwerkgeräte: Amazon.de: Computer & Zubehör
The module is completely wired internally to the BeoLink Converter and there is nothing visible from the outside. It looks like the Converter was planed to be used like that.
Next Up is my Masterlink Gateway and the Beovision 7 with wireless network for blu-ray.
Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + TurntableKitchen: BeoPlay M3Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab CelestialEntrance: BeoPlay M3
Tim84:Hi everybody, as I have problems with hard wiring every device I have to make some devices wireless. Today I started to make my BeoLink NL/ML Converter wireless. I can wire all ML devices together in one place (behind my Beovision 7) and the rest is now completely wireless. Adding wireless NL to the Blink Converter is pretty easy as I used a module from Vonets. Vonets VM300-L Wireless Modul Wifi Bridge Ethernet Wifi Repeater Mini Router Portable Wifi Hotspot Signal Access Point RJ45 LAN Adapter für DIY Professionelle Netzwerkgeräte: Amazon.de: Computer & Zubehör The module is completely wired internally to the BeoLink Converter and there is nothing visible from the outside. It looks like the Converter was planed to be used like that. Next Up is my Masterlink Gateway and the Beovision 7 with wireless network for blu-ray. Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000 Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + Turntable Kitchen: BeoPlay M3 Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab Celestial Entrance: BeoPlay M3
Here is a proposed Beosound Century mod that I would like to do, created on an art software app. I integrated a touchscreen Samsung mobile phone into the design...
Below is a modification that I did to a Beosound 3000 and stand. With Bluetooth receiver permanently attached onto the back of the unit. Also attached a floating Samsung tablet to the front of the simulated wood effect stand...
***
Photo removed due to illegal use of Bang & Olufsen A/S registered trademark logo.Using B&Os logo on homemade or home-finished items is a trademark violation.
DillenBeoworld moderator
Here are my Beovox CX50 mods. Aluminium back plates with speaker binding posts, better internal components...***
more pics
with the logos blanked out of the image...
logo blanked out...
another pic of the rear...
interior
binding posts
Del16: interior
Oh...
Not sure how to put this nicely.
In the other thread, you showed us your lack of knowledge about capacitors...
Have you checked where that coils Q went, when you fitted it to that thick metal plate?Frankly, I cannot see any improvement in any of the things you've done to this speaker.May I ask why you are doing all this in the first place?
If it's an attempt to impress the likes of so-called "audiophiles", you are posting it in the wrong forum, if you ask me.
Martin
Dillen,
In the other thread I was unfamiliar with the original capacitor used in the BEOVOX S45 for two reasons: I did not have the correct photo available to see the original capacitors, or what type they were.
You kindly provided me with the correct photo at the end of the discussion.
As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist.
You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each)).
You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results.
I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING).
You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock.
(( However, not everybody in the world has to think the same as you. It’s a free country where people are allowed to have their own ideas and beliefs )).
We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀
By the way; the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover. It is not making direct contact with the aluminium cover.
The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either.
The reason that I did the modifications is because I wanted to improve the sound quality of my BEOVOX CX50’s.
I documented the project here because the thread is called ‘BEOHACKS’ and the guy who started it, asked people to post their modifications here.
(I’m not trying to impress anyone)
The Sonicap capacitor that I used has the same value as the original. It was recommended to me by Jeff Glowacki at www.soniccraft.com
Here are the improvements that I made…
lawrencejmcook: Tim84: Hi everybody, as I have problems with hard wiring every device I have to make some devices wireless. Today I started to make my BeoLink NL/ML Converter wireless. I can wire all ML devices together in one place (behind my Beovision 7) and the rest is now completely wireless. Adding wireless NL to the Blink Converter is pretty easy as I used a module from Vonets. Vonets VM300-L Wireless Modul Wifi Bridge Ethernet Wifi Repeater Mini Router Portable Wifi Hotspot Signal Access Point RJ45 LAN Adapter für DIY Professionelle Netzwerkgeräte: Amazon.de: Computer & Zubehör The module is completely wired internally to the BeoLink Converter and there is nothing visible from the outside. It looks like the Converter was planed to be used like that. Next Up is my Masterlink Gateway and the Beovision 7 with wireless network for blu-ray. Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000 Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + Turntable Kitchen: BeoPlay M3 Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab Celestial Entrance: BeoPlay M3 Hi Tim84, Thanks for sharing that - good to know! I see that the Vonets VM300-L is 2.4 GHz only (like the Playmaker, Beolit 12, etc). This would be great if you have a 5GHz device only (like Beosound 5 Encore) and you want to avoid interfering with your WISA network. By any chance did you evaluate the Vonets VM5G which appears to be the same, but also works on the 5GHz band? Lawrence
Tim84: Hi everybody, as I have problems with hard wiring every device I have to make some devices wireless. Today I started to make my BeoLink NL/ML Converter wireless. I can wire all ML devices together in one place (behind my Beovision 7) and the rest is now completely wireless. Adding wireless NL to the Blink Converter is pretty easy as I used a module from Vonets. Vonets VM300-L Wireless Modul Wifi Bridge Ethernet Wifi Repeater Mini Router Portable Wifi Hotspot Signal Access Point RJ45 LAN Adapter für DIY Professionelle Netzwerkgeräte: Amazon.de: Computer & Zubehör The module is completely wired internally to the BeoLink Converter and there is nothing visible from the outside. It looks like the Converter was planed to be used like that. Next Up is my Masterlink Gateway and the Beovision 7 with wireless network for blu-ray. Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000 Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + Turntable Kitchen: BeoPlay M3 Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab Celestial Entrance: BeoPlay M3
Living room: BeoVision 7 MKV + BeoLab 7-2 + 2x BeoLab 8000 + BeoLab 2 + 2x BeoLab 4000 Office / guest room: BV 7-32 MKIV / BL7-1; BeoSound Core + Turntable Kitchen: BeoPlay M3 Bathroom: Gira Radio + BeoLab Celestial Entrance: BeoPlay M3
Hi Tim84,
Thanks for sharing that - good to know! I see that the Vonets VM300-L is 2.4 GHz only (like the Playmaker, Beolit 12, etc). This would be great if you have a 5GHz device only (like Beosound 5 Encore) and you want to avoid interfering with your WISA network. By any chance did you evaluate the Vonets VM5G which appears to be the same, but also works on the 5GHz band?
Lawrence
Hi Lawrence,
I just ordered the 5GHz Version. I will test it next week and send an Update. I will also check if I could use old laptop wifi antennas instead of the ones that are delivered with the module.
The great thing about these modules is that you can run them in 100% client mode without a repeater functionality. So you can keep the high bandwith of WIFI 6 on all bands even if the module is slower. For audio gear 2.4GHz should be more than enough. I geht great 100MB with the 2.4GHz module.
Tim
Del16: Dillen, In the other thread I was unfamiliar with the original capacitor used in the BEOVOX S45 for two reasons: I did not have the correct photo available to see the original capacitors, or what type they were. You kindly provided me with the correct photo at the end of the discussion. As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist. You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each)). You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results. I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING). You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock. (( However, not everybody in the world has to think the same as you. It’s a free country where people are allowed to have their own ideas and beliefs )). We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀 By the way; the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover. It is not making direct contact with the aluminium cover. The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either.
&
Oh dear....
Well, let's take this in small bites;
In the other thread you showed that in your world axial capacitors were based on foil and radial capacitors were electrolytics.That's where you are, knowledge-wise, when it comes to capacitors.
"As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist. "
I know about capacitors and I know about Beovox CX50.Trying to make anything audiophile out of them is ridiculous and hilarious.
"You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each))."
What?Where do you get this from?Let me tell you - nowhere.You're lying. I never stated anything to that effect - as that would've been a lie.I certainly know about capacitors, and also the types and brands you mention.I don't think there is a brand and/or type of capacitors, that I haven't tried.But I do it in the lab. "Scientifically" if you like.Not only do I listen, I also test and measure.This reveals more than I think you'll ever imagine. And I know audiophile nonsense, when I come across it.
"You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results."
I understand that you are one of the audiophile followers.
"I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING)."Not at all! Where do you get this from again?I have designed several rebuild kits doing REAL (documentable) improvements, some of which include replacement of original components with others. There's no audiophoolery around here.It's all based on physical facts, experience and electronic knowledge.
"You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock."
No. (?)I know about electronics.You don't.
"We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀"
What kind of world are you living in?
"the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover.
The electrical or mechanical connection is not the point.The electromagnetical connection is.But it does tell me, that you don't know anything about coils either.Did you check the coils Q?
"The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either."
Grounded?Eh... no, of course it's not grounded.Would you please tell me where ground is in your speaker and why you feel this could be relevant?
"The Sonicap capacitor that I used, has the same value as the original Roederstein"
The same value?Eh...I'm sure you are merely talking about its capacitance - right?Because every other parameter is different - because it's a completely different component, being a foil capacitor rather than an electrolytic.
But I'm sure it'll be fine in this position.You can fit all the fine capacitors you like, coming in wooden boxes lined with black velvet if that'll make you sleep better at night.But that shoud be the only reason for doing it in a Beovox CX50.It was constructed for an electrolytic BTW. It has a certain dissipation factor that I'm sure you didn't take into account when you fitted a foil cap.
"It was recommended to me by Jeff Glowacki at www.soniccraft.com"
I do believe that...
"Here are the improvements that I made…
Better quality copper wiring."
What?So your copper is better than what was in the cables that B&O fitted?That's utter audiophile rubbish.Besides, we are only talking about a few miliamps so the original leads are more than adequate for the task.That's ohms law. Fifth grade stuff or so, - remember?
"Proper speaker binding posts which will allow the speakers for easier use in non B&O systems and with different brands of aftermarket speaker cables."
The original DIN sockets are quite good and absolutely adequate for the task.Bare wires are easily shorted and wrongly polarised.The DIN just plugs in - but fine with me, if you prefer screw terminals. Your choice.
But now you mention it, the speaker DIN plugs and sockets are the only international standardized plug/socket for home stereo speakers.Everything else is non-standard.
"Better damping materials inside the cabinet to reduce cabinet colorations."
Can we see some documentation for this?
"Better capacitor which is brand new, to replace a thirty year old leaking Roederstein."
I agree. A fresh capacitor will be better than an old.
"A fresh coat of paint on the cabinet of a thirty year old speaker with scratches/imperfections."
A matter of taste, I suppose.
"A solid aluminium back panel to match the rest of the cabinet, and to replace the thin plastic one."
- Which actually performed a good bit of the dampening and wasn't at a right angle to the rest of the cabinet.
"OK SO HERE ARE THE SOUND QUALITY IMPROVEMENTS:-
a) Increased transparency."
Transparency?One more audiophile term, that noone can document or even explain.
b) Reduced treble glare.
Sorry, what?Is that another audiophile term?The removing of the plastic bit in front of the tweeter was the worst modification you could ever do, if you want true sounding speakers.
c) Much better 3D soundstage with sounds appearing outside the confines of the speaker cabinet.
More rubbish.
d) Reduced cabinet colorations.
Please document this or I'll deem it rubbish.
e) The ability to play louder without distortions.
No!Absolutely no!
Please take your lies and audiophile rubbish somewhere else.
I have designed crossover filters and I have spec'ed capacitors for production.
I know what I am talking about, and I know when a person tries to impress others with fancy words.
My advice to you would be to take a reality check and go study some electronics.
You will be amazed how much rubbish is spread out in audiophile groups and on audiophile websites.
Very little is true. Most is nonsense at best.
I will comment no more on this subject, I have much more meaningful things to do,
You did some modifications to your speakers. Fine.If you like them better this way - fine.But I am a Beoworld moderator and technical advisor. One of my jobs is to weed out rubbish, and I will edit and/or delete your posts or even ban you ifyou keep spreading lies about me, keep putting words in my mouth that I never said and/or keep giving out wrong or bad advice or try to spread audiophile nonsense.As mentioned already, this forum is not such a place.
What a lot of debunked verbal diorea from yourself. You were the first to start the insults on this thread, when you RUDELY insinuated that I have poor knowledge about capacitors, even though you didn’t have a clue about those high end capacitors that I listed on the previous thread.😅😂😂😂😂 ((Just go back to it and read that thread for for confirmation)) By the way; did you delete it?
Anyway I will explain… In that thread, I correctly listed all the best electrolytic and film ones available; going by the advice of the experts like Martin Colloms of Hifi News magazine, Hifi Collective, Parts connexion, Sonic Craft, VH Audio etc. Which you immediately scoffed at and dismissed, pushing the idea that Roederstein is a better cap than the ones listed, even better than Black Gate or Mundorf😀
Simply by dismissing all of those capacitors (which you did) shows that your knowledge is limited in that area of electronics.
Earlier you claimed that that there is no improvement in my CX50’s even though you’ve never listened to them. By the way I later listed nearly 20 significant improvements which can clearly be heard😀
I also offered you to come listen to the upgraded CX50 in person at my address, but you’re so set in your ways that you would prefer to live in ignorance.
You also rudely called me a ‘so called audiophile’ even though I have always tried to be civil and polite with you.
Your claim that the CX50 can never become audiophile is patently false. Just come and listen to mine. And that is coming from a Martin Logan Electrostat user!
You also claimed that it wasn’t worth upgrading the caps in a BEOVOX S45 because it could never bettered that way. However the link that I provided you to a previous Beoworld user who did a successful AURICAP modification to that model; immediately debunks your claim.😀
Your constant rude hostility towards my modifications lead me to the belief that you may be a B&O purist who is against upgrading to non original parts.
By the way I checked the Q of those coils ((no change there)). 👍😀
The Sonicap capacitor I used sounds great. Jeff wouldn’t have suggested it if it wasn’t a good replacement for the original Roederstein.
I used Neotech UPOCC single crystal wire (99.9999% purity copper) to replace the existing junk wire. You believe that the stock wiring is better!! 😀 (shows how much you know about that subject lol).
I used wool sheets to line the inside of the cabinet. Wool is considered to be a great damping material.
You falsely claimed that the replacement aluminium panel was a the wrong angle (when it isn’t). The photo of the rear debunks that claim.
You are very ignorant of the facts when it comes to my description of the improved sound quality of my CX50’s. You refuse to listen in person, even though I invited you. Instead you think that you know everything, when you do not.
By the way if you delete my posts, it shows that you are intolerant of different views.
Del16: By the way if you delete my posts, it shows that you are intolerant of different views.
I told you above what this forum is intolerant of.
Del16: What a lot of debunked verbal diorea from yourself. You were the first to start the insults on this thread, when you RUDELY insinuated that I have poor knowledge about capacitors, even though you didn’t have a clue about those high end capacitors that I listed on the previous thread.😅😂😂😂😂 ((Just go back to it and read that thread for for confirmation)) By the way; did you delete it? Anyway I will explain… In that thread, I correctly listed all the best electrolytic and film ones available; going by the advice of the experts like Martin Colloms of Hifi News magazine, Hifi Collective, Parts connexion, Sonic Craft, VH Audio etc. Which you immediately scoffed at and dismissed, pushing the idea that Roederstein is a better cap than the ones listed, even better than Black Gate or Mundorf😀 Simply by dismissing all of those capacitors (which you did) shows that your knowledge is limited in that area of electronics. Earlier you claimed that that there is no improvement in my CX50’s even though you’ve never listened to them. By the way I later listed nearly 20 significant improvements which can clearly be heard😀 I also offered you to come listen to the upgraded CX50 in person at my address, but you’re so set in your ways that you would prefer to live in ignorance. You also rudely called me a ‘so called audiophile’ even though I have always tried to be civil and polite with you. Your claim that the CX50 can never become audiophile is patently false. Just come and listen to mine. And that is coming from a Martin Logan Electrostat user! You also claimed that it wasn’t worth upgrading the caps in a BEOVOX S45 because it could never bettered that way. However the link that I provided you to a previous Beoworld user who did a successful AURICAP modification to that model; immediately debunks your claim.😀 Your constant rude hostility towards my modifications lead me to the belief that you may be a B&O purist who is against upgrading to non original parts. By the way I checked the Q of those coils ((no change there)). 👍😀 The Sonicap capacitor I used sounds great. Jeff wouldn’t have suggested it if it wasn’t a good replacement for the original Roederstein. I used Neotech UPOCC single crystal wire (99.9999% purity copper) to replace the existing junk wire. You believe that the stock wiring is better!! 😀 (shows how much you know about that subject lol). I used wool sheets to line the inside of the cabinet. Wool is considered to be a great damping material. You falsely claimed that the replacement aluminium panel was a the wrong angle (when it isn’t). The photo of the rear debunks that claim. You are very ignorant of the facts when it comes to my description of the improved sound quality of my CX50’s. You refuse to listen in person, even though I invited you. Instead you think that you know everything, when you do not.
Enough!