Sign in   |  Join   |  Help
Untitled Page

ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
READ ONLY FORUM

This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

A Beovox MS150 Project

This post has 213 Replies | 5 Followers

indyaudio
Not Ranked
Posts 44
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
indyaudio replied on Sat, Apr 5 2014 10:51 PM

Thank you so much!  

BEOVOXMAN
Not Ranked
Posts 1
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
BEOVOXMAN replied on Wed, Oct 22 2014 5:25 AM

Hello all,

 

I am a new member to this forum and a new Beo owner! I have acquired a pair of MS 150's that had been refoamed and generally put back to good working order. However, it wasn't long before one of the phase link drivers decided to part company with the voicecoil (straightforward enough fix thanks to this forum). But I was assisted in the dismantling of the cabinet and did not take personal note of the wiring configuration.

 

Could someone please point me to photos or diagrams of the wiring, specifically of the upper (smaller) bass driver/woofer?

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

Joshua

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
sonavor replied on Tue, Nov 4 2014 6:11 PM

Hi Joshua, welcome to the forum. I'm glad the post helped out on your project. Can you post some pictures of the area you are having a problem with?  What version of the MS150's do you have?  It sounds like you are asking where the white and gray wires from the crossover attach to the smaller woofer, is that right?

-sonavor

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
sonavor replied on Tue, Nov 4 2014 6:31 PM

Looking at my picture archive, two of my MS150's have Orange (+) and Yellow (-) for the smaller woofer (midrange 1 ).  My earlier MS150 has White (+) and Gray (-) for the midrange 1.

-sonavor

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

At the request of another Beoworld member, I dug out one of my remaining MS150 speaker cabinets and recorded the dimensions to use as a reference on some MS150 cabinets he suspects were modified.

Here you go...

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

Here is the last set of measurements.

GReg
Not Ranked
France
Posts 10
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
GReg replied on Thu, Nov 5 2015 5:16 PM

Hi guys,

thanks for this topic, now I want Beovox 150 Smile

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

It has been a while since I have done any work on my MS150 speaker sets. I still have the third pair to restore but it is low priority. I do listen to at least one pair of the MS150 speakers every day. One is connected as part of a complete 8000 system. The other is connected to a vintage Sansui AU-9500 integrated amplifier. The speakers sound great with both.

One thing I have yet to do on all of the sets is to re-cloth the grills. Also, one pair did not have a complete set of grill covers. This time, last year, Beoworld member Steffen was generous and provided me with a set of MS150 grills so I could complete my last pair. I was so busy with Beogram turntable projects that I couldn't get around to restoring that last pair. Hopefully I can remedy that here soon.

I did want to take a look at the MS150 grill cloths and frets regarding the task of re-covering them. The grill covers are plastic with thin, metal trim that presses the cloth into slots in the edges of the plastic frame. The metal trim looks continuous but there is a break where they can be removed.

 

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

Start at the break that is already there in the metal trim.

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

From the break in the metal trim, you can carefully pry the trim away from the plastic frame. Do it slowly and a little bit at a time.

Don't open up one end and continue around until you pull it off the other end. That will likely cause an unwanted break at the corners.

Instead, only open up one side enough to start prying the next side up.

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member

Continue prying just enough of the trim out as you continue all around the frame. Eventually there will be enough clearance to remove the trim completely while having it all intact.

h1npw
Top 75 Contributor
West Bridgford, Nottingham.
Posts 1,130
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
h1npw replied on Sat, May 7 2016 12:40 PM

Looking forward to seeing your method of attaching the cloth to the frets!

Cheers

Nigel

sonavor
Top 25 Contributor
Texas, United States
Posts 3,732
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
sonavor replied on Sat, May 14 2016 3:45 PM

It will be at least a couple of weeks before I do anything on my MS150's. This time of year calls for a lot of outside work on the weekends. Changing the cloth is fairly easy though. You pull the old cloth out of the slots, then pull them off the frets. As you do that you can see where the old cloth was glued to the frets. Use the old cloth as a template for cutting the new cloth piece. Clean off any glue residue on the fret and apply new glue, then apply the new cloth.

I like using some spray adhesive like 3M Super 77. There are other types that work good as well. You can probably even use very thin, double-sided tape.

Use a small, flat piece of metal (or other rigid material) to push the cloth end into the slots of the frets. That way it is really easy to re-attach the metal trim as you only have to focus on being careful not to bend the corners too far.

sonavor

Page 6 of 6 (214 items) « First ... < Previous 2 3 4 5 6 | RSS