Wood and veneer care

Søren Mexico — Mon, 13 Jan 2014 19:45:32 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 13/01/2014 19:45:32

I start cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol, depending on how dirty (layers of Pledge, wax or lacquered with something) at times I use acetone for the first cleaning, careful acetone may damage plastics and loosen glues.

Then sand the wood with 200 grain sand paper or this (these hand pads I find better than sandpaper, they dont run full, and you can use them over and over again) I sand until small scratches and marks disappear and the surfaces has the same color over all, deep damages can be repaired with a mix of wood glue and sanding dust.

Mix the dust with glue until you have a heavy paste, clean the damage with a cutter and acetone, press the paste into the scratch/hole, level off wit a knife or spatula. This only for smaller deep scratches, if bigger, you will have to cut out the damaged veneer and glue in a new piece of veneer fitting the grain and cut out.

When the repaired areas are dry, sand again with 200 grain or hand pad, if you want a finer finish, sand with 400 grain, Clean off dust with a brush and then with Iso alcohol or a rag moistened with water, let dry. Now soak the wood with Boiled linseed oil (also known as Danish Oil), after half an hour, wipe off excess, let dry for 12 hours, sand lightly with hand pad or 400 grain, clean off dust, soak with oil, 1/2 hour, wipe off excess, let dry 12 hours, polish with lint free rag, done. After a couple of years, sand light, clean, soak, wipe off excess, let dry, polish, and it looks like new again.

The Linseed oil stinks, so do this outside or in the garage.

For sanding, use a sanding block or a piece of wood that fits in your hand, wrapped with sanding paper or hand pad. Do NOT use machine, the veneer is very thin on some some items.

Always sand until all darker areas are gone, and an even light brown color is reached, the wood will turn darker and the grain be more accented after oiling.

Daily (weekly) cleaning with rag moistened with soapy water. Use no furniture sprays or cleaners.

BG CD50 Belt change

Søren Mexico — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 02:56:45 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 27/07/2012 03:56:45

BG CD50 Belt change

Filed under: BG CD50 belt

To attach a new belt in the BG CD50 is not for non technical people, if you have 10 thumps, stay away and get a technician, here goes. Tools and accessories. Take of the top cover, 2 screws in the back, loosen push up, tighten again, pull the cover to the back some 5-10 Mm. and lift up.

Take of door arm, green arrow, 2 screws, one at the left red arrow, for the arm guide, one at the right red arrow, at the door (flap), wiggle out the arm, then unscrew the 2 screws for the black "hooks", middle red arrows, wiggle out hooks

Looks like this

For the laser unit, unscrew 4 scews, red arrows, and the cable guide, green arrow.

Pull the laser unit a little to the left, lift it free, carefully, and turn it over to the right, place a pair of rubber pieces or a insulating sheet, between unit and PCB

Mark the gears, red arrows, if not or bad marked, you are into some job to get right again. take off the cam follower, blue arrow, one philips screw, loosen one allen screw (1.3 Mm. allen key) and turn the brass nut CCW, green arrow, until it comes of, lift out gear/cam wheel, this is divided in two parts, see next pic.

Lower part of the cam gear, red arrow, make sure you align the small guide spline to the cam gear when mounting the upper cam gear. The gear with the blue arrow can stay there, but now is a good occasion to take it off, clean and lubricate it.

All out, upper right gear is fastened with an E/clip, use a small screwdriver, and twist, be careful, they tend to fly around, never to be found again.

Old belt left, and new belt from Dillen right.

New belt in, look out for twisted belt, red arrow, turn the belt wheel to check, and turn the belt if twisted

will be

After cleaning and lubricating everything its time to get it all back in, when you put back the gear/cam, take care to adjust the brass nut correctly.

First fit the Gear/cam properly to the lower cam part, check the gear marks are in the right position, then screw on the brass nut CW, until finger tight against the gear, then turn it CCW 1/2 a turn, secure with more for mounting the Allen screw. If the nut is too tight the gear will not move freely, if to loose the disk lift will not go high enough.

Attach everything as it was before, turn the gears by hand and turn the disk tray to end positions, in and out, a couple of times, check that all wires are correct located and doesn't touch anything moving, leave the disc tray in the in position, connect to mains, press open tray, insert CD, press play, if it works OK you should see the counter moving, and the laser unit moving and focusing, press next track, until last track, and check the wires, that moves with the laser unit, can move without problems, move from first to last track and back a few times to get all the new grease and oil worked in.

Count your tools, and look if the only thing left is the old belt, put on the cover, connect your player and enjoy.

My BG CD50 worked without failures. So I wont do more, why repair anything that works perfectly.

BG CD50 Belt change

Søren Mexico — Wed, 25 Jul 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 25/07/2012 06:00:00

Looks like this

For the laser unit, unscrew 4 scews, red arrows, and the cable guide, green arrow.

Pull the laser unit a little to the left, lift it free, carefully, and turn it over to the right, place a pair of rubber pieces or a insulating sheet, between unit and PCB

All out, upper right gear is fastened with an E/clip, use a small screwdriver, and twist, be careful, they tend to fly around, never to be found again.

Old belt left, and new belt from Dillen right.

New belt in, look out for twisted belt, red arrow, turn the belt wheel to check, and turn the belt if twisted

will be back with more for mounting it all

Post uploaded pics

Søren Mexico — Sun, 06 May 2012 02:47:21 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 06/05/2012 03:47:21

Pics has to be less than 1000 Kbs

Start a new thread, or post an answer in a thread

Every time you insert a pick, you will have to run the whole click,click, and every time you insert a pic, the pane will reset to the starting point and you will have to scroll down to the last inserted pic.

It easier to just write the text, insert pic from options, post, answer to thread and insert one more pic and so on.

This way is a waste of time.

Upload pics

Søren Mexico — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 03:22:00 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 30/04/2012 04:22:00

Make sure your pics are smaller than 1000 Kbs

To upload pics to your files and keep them on the forum server, for later use, when making a longer thread, do like this

Click view all files, way down in the right corner

If you uploads pics without making folders, you will get all your pics in "my files". If you make folders, you can only make 9-10 folders, if more folders, you wont be able to open them when posting. And remember, write folder names like when you had a Comodore or PS1 computer, Nospaces in Folder name.

After adding a folder, you get this pane, open the newly added folder.

To add pics to folder, click browse, find the pic in your computer, click open or double click, then click add file.

After clicking Add File, your pane should look like this.

Now continue to Browse, select pic, Add File to this folder, or make one more folder and do the same there.

How to post the pics in your Thread or Answer, I will post in another page, its a Looong story, as we are working with bad or Outdated server software.

Post and upload pics

Søren Mexico — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 02:45:53 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 30/04/2012 03:45:53

Post and upload pics

Filed under: Upload pics, post pics, pics

POST ONE PIC

If you want to post pics make sure they are smaller than 1000 Kbs.

I use a photo software to edit my photos, you can get that here for free.

To post one pic to a thread or in an answer in a thread, do like this.

You will get a window like this:

Next window, after clicking save, wait until the pop up window disappears, then click compose, and you are back to your text window, click post and the pic will show in your answer/new thread.

Post and upload pics

Søren Mexico — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 02:04:12 GMT

Revision 2 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 30/04/2012 03:04:12

Post and upload pics

Filed under: Upload pics, post pics, pics

POST ONE PIC

If you want to post pics make sure they are smaller than 1000 Kbs.

I use a photo software to edit my photos, you can get that here for free.

To post one pic to a thread or in an answer in a thread, do like this

You will get a window like this:

Next window, after clicking save, wait until the pop up window disappears, then click compose, and you are back to your text window, click post and the pic will show in your answer/new thread.

Post and upload pics

Søren Mexico — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 02:01:38 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 30/04/2012 03:01:38

POST ONE PIC

If you want to post pics make sure they are smaller than 1000 Kbs.

I use a photo software to edit my photos, you can get that here for free.

To post one pic to a thread or in an answer in a thread, do like this

You will get a window like this:

Next window, after clicking save, wait until the pop up window disappears, then click compose, and you are back to your text window, click post and the pic will show in your answer/new thread.

Pickup cleaner

Søren Mexico — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:30:02 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 12/04/2012 21:30:02

Pickup cleaner

A USD 0.02 pickup cleaner

1. Buy Original Magic Eraser pad, cut to size, use the rest for cleaning aluminum, plastic, inox and what so ever.

2. Insert a clean unused tooth pick end, 5 Mm. into the flat end of the ME piece.

3. Just dip the pickup needle into the professional pickup cleaner a couple of times, if very dirty scrape carefully with the pointed edge of the professional pick up cleaner.

3. Result, the pics taken before cleaning came out bad, but there is a difference to be seen, I'm not a professional photographer, I'm a professional pickup cleaner

[L#]

Pickup cleaner

Søren Mexico — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:28:49 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 12/04/2012 21:28:49

A USD 0.02 pickup cleaner

1. Buy Original Magic Eraser pad, cut to size, use the rest for cleaning aluminum, plastic, inox and what so ever.

2. Insert a clean unused tooth pick end, 5 Mm. into the flat end of the ME piece.

3. Just dip the pickup needle into the professional pickup cleaner a couple of times, if very dirty scrape carefully with the pointed edge of the professional pick up cleaner.

3. Result, the pics taken before cleaning came out bad, but there is a difference to be seen, I'm not a professional photographer, I'm a professional pickup cleaner

Beocord 5000, Disassamply

Søren Mexico — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 16:03:48 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 04/04/2012 17:03:48

Beocord 5000, Disassamply

Filed under: Beocord 5000

Got to the Beocord yesterday, everybody knows how to take of the top cover, so here goes. Take of the command panel, pres the taps. red arrows, to the inside and upwards with a screw driver, then carefully pull the panel up and out.Be careful there is a cable connection below.

Now take off all the red pressure taps, press down with a finger and wiggle a little with a screw driver between tap and chassis, careful, old plastic.

Free the PCB support and raise it to upright pos. both sides, green arrow, free the cables from the clamps, red arrows, pull the plug, blue arrow.

Loosen 2 screws just behind the front panel and tilt it forward to free the PCB.

Now lift up the PCB, careful, its very thin and may brake. Disconnect the command panel plug. When pulling the plugs place your fingers at the arrows and wiggle it little by little side to side until it comes lose. take out the 2 front panel screws. Pull the 2 plugs for the front panel and take it out.

Panel out, at the arrows you will see some taps that hooks into the chassis, remember these when you put it in again

Raise the panel and secure it with the supports on the back side.

Pull the plugs for the tape unit.

Unscrew the sound cable brackets, and the ground wire behind the power supply PCB

The other side one more ground.

Loosen the cable clamp, blue no arrow , just bend it with a plier and pull it out from the lower hole, cables free. Pull the 2 plugs, loosen the 2 PCB supports and lift out the PCB.

Unscrew 3 screws and lift out the tape unit.

The drawer motor and drive is secured with 1 screw, take it out and twist with a screw driver, lift out. Mine had no band, and I didn't find rests inside, so someone was here before me.

All out, take out the 4 screws.

Red arrow, this is not a tap, its a highs adjusting shim.

When the roller guides are out, be sure to place the shims so you know to get them back in the same place.

When you take apart the drawer guides, be careful with the E clips, I call them Jesus Christ, because thats what I scream when they fly through the work shop, they seam to have a life of their own.

Clean of all old grease (Iso alcohol) and add new grease, I use silicone grease.

Drawer drive, clean, grease, remember the blade spring pos.

At the tape unit you will find old grease at the red arrows, clean add new grease, I use a pipe cleaner and cotton swabs.

Now change all bands and caps, put it all together again adjust everithing and were done,

Will be be back with more., when parts arrive

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle

Beocord 5000, Disassamply

Søren Mexico — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 15:51:56 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Søren Mexico on 04/04/2012 16:51:56

Now take off all the red pressure taps, press down with a finger and wiggle a little with a screw driver between tap and chassis, careful, old plastic.

Free the PCB support and raise it to upright pos. both sides, green arrow, free the cables from the clamps, red arrows, pull the plug, blue arrow.

Loosen 2 screws just behind the front panel and tilt it forward to free the PCB.

Panel out, at the arrows you will see some taps that hooks into the chassis, remember these when you put it in again

Raise the panel and secure it with the supports on the back side.

Pull the plugs for the tape unit.

Unscrew the sound cable brackets, and the ground wire behind the power supply PCB

The other side one more ground.

Loosen the cable clamp, blue no arrow , just bend it with a plier and pull it out from the lower hole, cables free. Pull the 2 plugs, loosen the 2 PCB supports and lift out the PCB.

Unscrew 3 screws and lift out the tape unit.

The drawer motor and drive is secured with 1 screw, take it out and twist with a screw driver, lift out. Mine had no band, and I didn't find rests inside, so someone was here before me.

All out, take out the 4 screws.

Red arrow, this is not a tap, its a highs adjusting shim.

When the roller guides are out, be sure to place the shims so you know to get them back in the same place.

When you take apart the drawer guides, be careful with the E clips, I call them Jesus Christ, because thats what I scream when they fly through the work shop, they seam to have a life of their own.

Clean of all old grease (Iso alcohol) and add new grease, I use silicone grease.

Drawer drive, clean, grease, remember the blade spring pos.

At the tape unit you will find old grease at the red arrows, clean add new grease, I use a pipe cleaner and cotton swabs.

Now change all bands and caps, put it all together again adjust everithing and were done,

Will be be back with more.

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle

How do I work out the best place to put my speakers?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 08:48:50 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 21/03/2012 08:48:50

How do I work out the best place to put my speakers?

Filed under: Speaker Positioning

Entire books have been written about this topic, so the following advice should just be considered as a starting point; exact positions will vary depending on your room acoustics and choice of loudspeakers. The following advice is suitable for either stereo speakers (ie. 2 channel) or the two main front speakers in a 5.1 or 7.1 channel surround sound system. Good speaker positioning improves the sound quality and stereo image, so that instruments sound more lifelike and appear to come from different parts of the stage (as they would sound at a live concert).

As a starting point, locate the "tweeter" or small high-pitched driver in the speakers (Just play some music with plenty of rythym and listen for where the cymbals appear to come from!) These drivers should normally be positioned at about ear level when you are sitting in your usual seat (or standing up dancing!)

Measure from your usual listening position to the front wall of the room where the speakers are placed (ensure that they are in front of you, not to the side or behind you) This distance should be roughly the same as the distance between the speakers.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

Now look at the back panel of the speakers. If there is a hole in the back (known as a bass port) or a grille cloth on the back (covering a bass driver), then the speakers should normally be placed away from the front wall of the room. If neither holes nor grilles are present, then the distance from the front wall is less important. The distance the speakers should be placed from the wall for best effect will vary, but 50cm (0.5m) is usually a good starting point for most speakers. Listen to some music you know well with a clear bassline and try various positions to see which gives clear, realistic bass notes that fit in well with the rest of the music.

Finally, ensure that the speakers are solidly mounted on suitable brackets or stands (for smaller speakers) or securely placed on the floor (for taller speakers). Try pointing the speakers directly at your listening position, straight at the back wall and then try them angled inwards to point at a position about 50cm in front of your listening position. This will alter the positioning of instruments "on stage" and you should be looking to hear the lead singer clearly in the centre, with backing vocals and instruments spread evenly between the speakers.

Above all, there is no "right" or "wrong" way to position your speakers, so feel free to experiment and find out what works best for you.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

How do I work out the best place to put my speakers?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:55:23 GMT

Revision 2 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:55:23

How do I work out the best place to put my speakers?

Filed under: Speaker Positioning

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

Above all, there is no "right" or "wrong" way to position your speakers, so feel free to experiment and find out what works best for you.

How do I work out the best place to put my speakers?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 08:59:31 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 08:59:31

Above all, there is no "right" or "wrong" way to position your speakers, so feel free to experiment and find out what works best for you.

Which Beogram turntables can be wall-mounted?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:52:20 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:52:20

Bang and Olufsen produced an excellent wall bracket for their Beogram record players in the 1980's that seemed to disappear under the turntable, leaving the Beogram seemingly suspended in mid air. Sadly, these are no longer in production and they are now very rare, so several companies have built after-market versions of these shelves in recent years.

As with the original B&O brackets, these new brackets will fit many of the B&O Beogram range, including the models listed below:-

Beogram 1000, 1500, 3000, 3300, 3500, 4500, 5005, 5500, 6500, 7000, 8500, 9000, 9500, TX, TX2, RX, RX2

The dimensions of both the original and the re-manufactured brackets are almost identical, at 33cm wide x 30cm deep x 7cm high. Basically, if the depth from the back edge of your B&O turntable to the front feet underneath is 30cm or less, then these shelves will fit your Beogram.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

Which Beogram turntables need an external pre-amplifier kit?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:49:31 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:49:31

Since around 1990, Bang and Olufsen fitted built-in RIAA pre-amplifier modules to all of their Beogram range of record players, to allow them to be used with their newer audio systems. However, a large number of their earlier turntables are still in use which do not have these amplifiers fitted. Anyone wishing to use a pre-1990 Beogram turntable with a modern B&O system would need to buy an external RIAA per-amplifier, as the B&O modules are no longer available.

Sounds Heavenly have developed a Pre-Amplifier Kit which combines a mains-powered RIAA pre-amplifier with all the necessary cables and convertors to connect an early Beogram turntable to a modern B&O system. These are required for most Beogram turntables, including those listed below:-

Beogram 1500 family

Beogram 1500 (1968-1972)

Beogram 1500-1 (1973-1974)

Beogram 1000 family

Beogram 1000 (1966-1972)

Beogram 1001 (1973-1975)

Beogram 3000 family

Beogram 3000 type 5210 (1967)

Beogram 3000 type 5211 (1967)

Beogram 1200 family

Beogram 1200 (1972)

Beogram 1201 (1973)

Beogram 1202 (1974-1975)

Beogram 1203 (1975-1976)

Beogram 1204 (1976)

Beogram 1800 (1971-1973)

Beogram 3000 family

Beogram 2000 (1975-1977)

Beogram 3000 (1972-1975)

Beogram 1100 family

Beogram 1100 (1976-1977)

Beogram 1900 (1976)

Beogram 3400 (1975-1978)

Beogram 1902 family

Beogram 1102 (1978)

Beogram 1500 (1978-1980)

Beogram 1902 (1977-1978)

Beogram 1700 (1979-1982)

Beogram 2400 family

Beogram 2200 (1979-1980)

Beogram 2202 (1981)

Beogram 2400 (1979-1980)

Beogram 2402 (1981)

Beogram 2404

Beogram 3404

Beogram 6000 (1982-?)

Beogram 1800 family

Beogram 1800 (1983-1984)

Beogram 2000 (1985-1986)

Beogram 5000 (1984)

Beogram RX (1983-1986)

Beogram RX2 (1985-1991)

Beogram 4000 family

Beogram 4000 (1974-1975)

Beogram 4002 (1975-1979)

Beogram 4004 (1979-1980)

Beogram 6000 (1975-1978)

Beogram 8000 family

Beogram 6006 (1981-1982)

Beogram 8000 (1981-1982)

Beogram 8002 (1983-1986)

Beogram 6002 family

Beogram 6002 (1983-1984)

Beogram TX (1983-1984)

Beogram 5005 family

Beogram 5005 (1985-1986)

Beogram 5500 (1987-1989)

Beogram 9000 (1987-1988)

Beogram 9500 (1989-1993)

Beogram TX 2 (1985-1989)

Beogram 3000 family

Beogram 3000 (1985-1987)

Beogram 3300 (1988-1989)

Please note that some examples of the turntables listed above may have previously been fitted with an internal pre-amplifier by B&O. However, this is a rare occurence, so if you have a model listed above, if is likely to require an external Phono Pre-Amplifier Kit before it can be used with a modern B&O audio system.

Which type of Powerlink cables do I need for my B&O audio system/TV?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:48:23 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:48:23

Almost all modern Bang and Olufsen Beolab active speakers (ie. those powered from the mains supply) should be connected to your audio system or television using Powerlink cables. These are all similar in outer appearance, with a round 8-pin DIN plug at each end of the cable. However, there are three versions of this cable:-

Powerlink mark 1 is the simplest type and can be used by most older Beolab speakers, including Beolab 1, Beolab 2500, Beolab 4000, Beolab 6000 and Beolab 8000. I usually recommend using mark 3 cable instead of mark 1 - see below for the reason why.

Powerlink mark 2 (also known as "fully wired") is for speakers with built-in displays, including Beolab Penta (mark 2 and 3 models only) and Beolab 3000, 4500 and 5000 panel speakers. This is also required for use with Beolab 5 speakers. This cable will also work with all other Beolab speakers with Powerlink connections, so it is the best version to choose if you are likely to change your speakers in future.

Powerlink mk.3 is the latest version for the ICE-Power Beolab speakers with class D digital amplifiers, as it contains an additional voltage reference wire intended to prevent background hum. This is for Beolab 2, Beolab 3, Beolab 4, Beolab 7.1, Beolab 7.2, Beolab 9, Beolab 10, Beolab 11, Beolab 4000 mk.2, Beolab 6002 and Beolab 8002. This can also be used to replace mark 1 cable, so any of the speakers listed for use with mark 1 cable can also be used with mark 3 cable.

The older mark 1 cables are best avoided in most situations, as they offer no advantages but they are incompatible with many speakers from the current Beolab range.

The exceptions to the rules above are the very earliest Beolab speakers (notably the Beolab Penta mark 1), which used a special connection type called Speakerlink. This used a specially made plug, which has not been manufactured since the late 1990's. However, a 2-pin DIN speaker cable can be used to power these speakers, although the displays will not light up.

B&O also built a couple of "link room" speakers (Beolab 2000 and 3500) which use Masterlink cables instead of Powerlink.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

How do I connect my modern B&O system to a non-B&O amplifier and passive loudspeakers?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:36:28 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:36:28

Modern Bang and Olufsen televisions and audio systems do not have built-in power amplifiers, but they are designed to connect to B&O's "Beolab" range of active (amplified) loudspeakers. So what do you do if you want to connect a modern B&O audio source or TV to a conventional amplifier and loudspeakers?

The solution is an Attenuator box which connects to one of the Powerlink outputs on your B&O system and converts this to RCA (also known as "phono") sockets to allow you to plug in a normal hifi or home cinema amplifier and speakers. As one Powerlink socket contains both left and right stereo signals, only one Attenuator box is needed to give stereo sound.

If you want to continue using the volume control on your B&O system to control the speakers you have connected in this way, you will need to set the extra amplifier volume level near to maximum. You can then use your B&O volume control (and remote control) as normal.

This setup allows you to use in-wall or in-ceiling speakers (indoor or outdoor) with your B&O music system, or to connect it to a multi-channel cinema/home theatre surround sound system.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

How do I start connecting B&O equipment to my other equipment?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:32:03 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:32:03

Despite the unusual connections used on Bang and Olufsen audio systems (typically 2, 5, 7 and 8 pin DIN plugs), it is possible to get your B&O system to interface to equipment from other manufacturers, including such items as non-B&O CD players, turntables, active subwoofers, amplifiers and speakers.

B&O themselves make a limited range of adapters to allow you to interface with other companies' equipment, with further ranges available online through manufacturers such as Sounds Heavenly.

The most common (and useful) ways of integrating B&O into other systems include:-

1) Adding a non-B&O line source into a B&O system: This needs an RCA to DIN Input Cable.

2) Using a Powerlink-equipped B&O system with a conventional amplifier and passive loudspeakers: This needs a Powerlink to Amplifier cable, with two RCA plugs being the current industry standard for the connection to the amplifier. As the B&O system alters the volume coming out through the Powerlink outputs, you will normally need to set the external amplifier to nearly maximum for best results.

3) Connecting an iPod/MP3 Player or PC into a B&O system: This needs a PC/iPod Input Cable with a 3.5mm mini-jack to plug into the source. Always ensure that lead you choose is long enough for the job; it pays to buy one longer than you think you will need, so that you can have to iPod or laptop near your comfy chair to make changing tracks easier! Most iPods and MP3 Players need their volume control to be set near to maximum when played through a home hifi system, due to the low level of signal they normally produce via headphones.

4) Adding several extra audio inputs to a B&O system: Why do B&O only give you one Auxiliary Input on each of their audio systems - I wish I knew! Aux. Input Switching Kits can be used to allow you to connect up to four items into the one input without having to constantly change plugs.

5) Adding a non-B&O active subwoofer to your B&O system: This is a common arrangement, due to the high cost of B&O's own sub, the Beolab 2. As for Option 2 above, the Powerlink outputs are your best option, with a Powerlink to Subwoofer Cable allowing you to connect most subs to your system using either one or both of the RCA plugs fitted and still keep their volume controllable by the B&O remote control.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

How can I test the bass response of my loudspeakers?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:03:18 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:03:18

First, connect your PC to your audio system! Second, download the following "Bass Response Test" and save it to your PC as an MP3 file. Connect up your audio system and listen as the bass tones descend from 340Hz (mid bass) to 20Hz (the lower limit of human hearing). The frequency of each successive note is announced, so you can work out the limit of your audio system from the point where the tones disappear - the results may surprise you!

For the ultimate bass extension test, the following "20 Hz Test Tone" in MP3 format will tell you if you speakers can plumb the depths of human hearing, with a long clear note at the very edge of audibility which will test even the best loudspeakers in the World to their limits!

For reference, the lowest note on a Tuba, Bosendorfer Imperial Grand Piano and most cathedral pipe organs (C0) is 16.35 Hz, although few modern pianos go lower than 27.5Hz and a four string double bass "only" reaches down to around 41Hz.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

How do I know if my remote control is working?

Steve at Sounds Heavenly — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:01:47 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by Steve at Sounds Heavenly on 19/03/2012 09:01:47

This is a nice easy one! Just find a digital camera (or camera phone) and switch it on so that the screen shows a picture (don't press the shutter button) Hold the front end of the remote control up to the camera lens so that you can see the small black "window" on the screen. If the remote is working properly, you should see fast, bright flashes of white light on the camera screen when you press a button on the remote. If the flashes are dim, the batteries probably need replacing. If nothing shows, your remote control is likely to need repair or replacement.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly (www.soundsheavenly.co.uk)

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:31:52 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:31:52

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

Filed under: BEO4, Universal Remote

Some people like the BEO4 remote controller and want to control all their non B&O equipment with the BEO4 remote controller, although it is not integrated with B&O. With the Lintronic -238 box you can make your BEO4 a universal remote very easily.

You have to use the box with it's own IR-receiver. You can control your devices just in the same way, as you would do with B&O integrated devices.

Step 1: You assign a Beo4 source key to each of your devices

Step2: You compile the memeory map as needed to control every device

Step3: Place the box in a position, wehe the emitted IR-signal can reach all you devices to be controlled. You can use high power IR or low power IR-emitter cables.

Step4: Place the IR-Eye wher it can be reached by the BEO4 IR-Signal

For details please refer to the integration guide document downloadable in the section "Integrating "Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic"

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:21:26 GMT

Revision 3 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:21:26

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

Filed under: BEO4, Universal Remote

Some peaple people like the BEO4 remote controller and want to control all their non B&O equipment with the BEO4 remote controller, although it is not integrated with B&O. With the Lintronic -238 box you can make your BEO4 a universal remote very easily.

You have to use the box with it's own IR-receiver. You can control your devices just in the same way, as you would do with B&O integrated devices.

Step 1: You assign a Beo4 source key to each of your devices

Step2: You compile the memeory map as needed to control every device

Step3: Place the box in a position, wehe the emitted IR-signal can reach all you devices to be controlled. You can use high power IR or low power IR-emitter cables.

Step4: Place the IR-Eye wher it can be reached by the BEO4 IR-Signal

For details please refer to the integration guide document downloadable in the section "Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic"

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:20:58 GMT

Revision 2 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:20:58

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

Filed under: BEO4, Universal Remote

Some peaple like the BEO4 remote controller and want to control all their non B&O equipment with the BEO4 remote controller. , although it is not integrated with B&O. With the Lintronic -238 box you can make your BEO4 a universal remote very easily.

You have to use the box with it's own IR-receiver. You can control your devices just in the same way, as you would do with B&O integrated devices.

Step 1: You assign a Beo4 source key to each of your devices

Step2: You compile the memeory map as needed to control every device

Step3: Place the box in a position, wehe the emitted IR-signal can reach all you devices to be controlled. You can use high power IR or low power IR-emitter cables.

Step4: Place the IR-Eye wher it can be reached by the BEO4 IR-Signal

For details please refer to the integration guide document downloadable in the section "Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic"

Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:19:37 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:19:37

Some peaple like the BEO4 remote controller and want to control all their non B&O equipment with the BEO4 remote controller. With the Lintronic -238 box you can make your BEO4 a universal remote very easily.

You have to use the box with it's own IR-receiver. You can control your devices just in the same way, as you would do with B&O integrated devices.

Step 1: You assign a Beo4 source key to each of your devices

Step2: You compile the memeory map as needed to control every device

Step3: Place the box in a position, wehe the emitted IR-signal can reach all you devices to be controlled. You can use high power IR or low power IR-emitter cables.

Step4: Place the IR-Eye wher it can be reached by the BEO4 IR-Signal

For details please refer to the integration guide document downloadable in the section "Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic"

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:30:21 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:30:21

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

This page is intended to be added with information by everyone you has anwers to questions, that might be intersting to other members. Or simply post a comment with a question, you would like to see answered here.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

The best solution is to connect the -238 box to a SCART connector. This is possible if you have an unused SCART connector on your BeoVision which can be configured as V.MEM or DVD connection. You will need a special custom made SCART cable. Details are shown on the Lintronic support site. This way to integrate the lintronic box has the following advantages:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

If this is not the way you want to go and you don't need link room acessibility, you can use an extra IR-Receiver connected to the -238 box IR input. But you need to be careful not to mixup IR commands, as there are TWO IR-RECEIVERS active - the one of the BeoVision and the one connected to the -238 box.

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

For BeoSystem3 users there is a very simple way to integrate the -238 box. Simply connect BS3's IR-IN connector to the IR connector of the -238 box using a standard mini jack cable. The IR commands received by BS3 also goes to the -238 box.

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Yes, you need to have to choose one of the integrations shown above. Depending on the amount of command integration - only ON/OFF or additional setting - the memory map will be simple or more complex.

Q: What are the functions can I "programme" into the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Q: Can Lintronc help to make BEO4 a Universal Remote

Yes, you can control all your equipment with Lintronic, even though it is not connected to B&O. Please refer to WIKI page Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Universal Remote

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 06:27:31 GMT

Revision 6 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 13/03/2012 06:27:31

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Q: What are the functions can I "programme" into the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Q: Can Lintronc help to make BEO4 a Universal Remote

Yes, you can control all your equipment with Lintronic, even though it is not connected to B&O. Please refer to WIKI page Lintronic makes BEO4 a universal Remote

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Sun, 11 Mar 2012 14:35:22 GMT

Revision 5 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 11/03/2012 14:35:22

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Q: What are the functions a can I "programme" in into the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Sun, 11 Mar 2012 14:34:11 GMT

Revision 4 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 11/03/2012 14:34:11

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Q: What are the functions a can "programme" in the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 18:54:38 GMT

Revision 3 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 10/03/2012 18:54:38

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

If this is not the way you want to go and you don't need link romm room acessibility, you can use an extra IR-Receiver connected to the -238 box IR input. But you need to be careful not to mixup IR commands, as there are TWO IR-RECEIVERS active - the one of the BeoVision and the one connected to the -238 box.

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Q: What are the functions a can "programme" in the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 17:48:49 GMT

Revision 2 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 10/03/2012 17:48:49

Lintronic FAQ

Filed under: Lintronic

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions.

Q: How can the Lintonic TT455-RT-238 help to Integrate devices not found in the PUC list?

A1:

- Power on/off is controlled according to the connection settings of the BeoVision

- You don't need an extra IR-Receiver

- You can use the non B&O device in a link room, exactly like PUC controlled devices

- The Third-Party device can be hidden away

A2:

If this is not the way you want to go and you don't need link romm acessibility you can use an extra IR-Receiver connected to the -238 box IR input. But you need to be careful not to mixup IR commands, as there are TWO IR-RECEIVERS active - the one of the BeoVision and the one connected to the -238 box.

A3: (information supplied by member nico vercammen)

Q: Can Lintronic help to integrate a non B&O screen with BeoSystem2/3?

Q: What are the functions a can "programme" in the memory map?

There is a special page"Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic" in this WIKI section, aswering this question, where you can download a guide and a real life example.

Lintronic FAQ

hfat — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 16:58:28 GMT

Revision 1 posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 10/03/2012 16:58:28

FAQs and additional information about using Lintronic to integrate non B&O devices into B&O solutions

Integrating non-B&O using Lintronic

hfat — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 16:56:02 GMT

Current revision posted to <Members Own Technical Pages> by hfat on 10/03/2012 16:56:02

I compiled a document with all my expirience gathered in the last months as I renewd my B&O installation and added some non PUC-supported devices. The document shows how to power on/off devices, to use variables and how to make go+<number> work.

You can download here: Guide to Lintronic Integration