ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Normaly I have to repair my wife's car, but this is more important
First of all the number and type, if not Martin will ask for it
Bottom cover of and inside the envelope, a very good sign, still glued to the cover
Inside the envelope, the drawing
The inside looks like new, this deck didn't see much use, on all adjusting screws I can see the lacquer placed from the factory, screws has never been touched (red arrows)
Drive out, everything dry and with small amounts of dry grease, but nearly all clean.
Drive with suspension out, motor open
The belt drive wheel, I will have to make a new one 20 % smaller maybe in poliamide
Other side
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Nice project !
And now some useless info:Because of very high demands, B&O made a conversion kit for this. Incredibly rare, I never saw one but itwas available at some point.The kit had a new motor and platter (with strobo markings for the Beogram 1200).
Martin
Repaired the wife and her car yesterday, but today I got to the more important work.
Here the prototype, made in Nylonacero, Polyamide for mechanics, it a little oversize where needed, I will have to refine it anyway.
The shaft is the original, not yet fastened to the wheel, will epoxy it when done testing the fit and location
As you see it fits perfectly to the idler wheel.
here side view, the wheel is overall diameter 28,5 Mm. the original is 35.4 Mm, so a little oversize, its easier to machine down if too big, than make a new piece, all together a 1.5 hour work. in the weekend I will clean, lubricate and install everything to see if I get some rotation. Then try to manipulate the belt to work with the new wheel, going to be interesting.
Fascinating project Søren. Great work.
interesting way of solving the 50/60 hz conundrum.
I love it! I really enjoy seeing you guys overcome obstacles!!!!
Best of success!
Menahem
Brilliant job, Søren
I opened up my 1202 once so far (this was a while ago) and remember finding my envelope with schematics as well
Also - I have a special surprise upgrade for my 1202, coming soon to a BeoWorld thread near you.
Beo4 'til I die!
Evan: I have a special surprise upgrade for my 1202, coming soon to a BeoWorld thread near you.
Tell tell, maybe I can use it
Got a little farther, took the the whole drive apart in detail, everything very hard and full with old very hard grase, had to scrape some of it off with a screwdriver
All clean
Together again, the new wheel was epoxied to the shaft, waiting for it to dry, before putting load on it, the motor was aligned with, checking the space around the rotor with linings, perfect fit, and runs very light.
Tomorrow I will try belt and functions, and I hope, play a record. Maybe I will have to adjust the new wheel a little
Perhaps we should start a betting line on what that first record will be.
I give 4 to 1 odds its Blondie - Parrallel Lines
Hold your bets, belt on, has some tension, cleaned it with a dry rag
Put on the platter a 30 Cm record and a 60 Hz strobo disk, the speed control was adjusted from lowest speed to correct speed ending at 1/3 from max. speed, attached the pickup, cleaned pick up and Anita, connected to my BM 4000 and of we went, good music, the silent contact makes some noice starting and stopping, but sound comes out just fine, pickup weight adjusted at 2 Gr.
I'm happy, now onto details.
After plaing a couple of records and testing all functions, set down points and set off, I checked the speed again, too fast, lowered to correct speed, and is now nearly in the middle with the adjustment, thats just perfect, and no noices what so ever from the drive, conclusion: Its easy to convert to 60 from 50 Hz,
eugene1960: Perhaps we should start a betting line on what that first record will be. I give 4 to 1 odds its Blondie - Parrallel Lines
For me, it's always Led Zeppelin II whether LP, cassette, CD or mp3.
I wonder how many hits in the forum archive you'd get if you searched on "Whole Lotta Love test."
Søren Mexico: After plaing a couple of records and testing all functions, set down points and set off, I checked the speed again, too fast, lowered to correct speed, and is now nearly in the middle with the adjustment, thats just perfect, and no noices what so ever from the drive, conclusion: Its easy to convert to 60 from 50 Hz,
Congratulations. Yet another "Steely-eyed Missile Man."
Well done!
--mika
Søren Mexico: Its easy to convert to 60 from 50 Hz,
This is why every house needs a capstan lathe :-) !
Nice job Soren
Monday I had guest for dinner, and proudly I introduced them to my BG 1202, connected to my BM 4000 and the Beovox 1600, played on LP side, turned it, and after a couple of songs I started to get some distortion.
Yesterday I opened the deck and cleaned all contacts, the 5 pin plug and jack and the cantilever pegs, Deoxit, but couldnt get to the silent contact, as I see it, I will have to take of the top aluminum plate, and to get that one of I will have to take of the pickup arm.
After cleaning I tested again, and now no sound in the right speaker, but a loud boom in both speakers, when the silent contact turns on and of.
I hope its only the silent contact, but it may be the pickup giving up, its as old as the deck, will get at the contact today, I will come back with more.
Søren,
I don't think, you will need to remove the tonearm to access the muting switch but I don't remember this deck in details.Another thing is, if your deck has the slot at the bottom for the plug-in RIAA, the bypassing contactsat the bottom of the slot will almost certainly have oxidized and need cleaning.
Dillen: Søren, I don't think, you will need to remove the tonearm to access the muting switch but I don't remember this deck in details.Another thing is, if your deck has the slot at the bottom for the plug-in RIAA, the bypassing contactsat the bottom of the slot will almost certainly have oxidized and need cleaning. Martin
Here a pic, as you see, no plug for the RIAA, and the muting switch is placed between the main chassis and the plate for arm mechanism, so the only way to get at it, is to take out the swinging chassis or the top plate, in both cases I will have to take of the arm. The muting switch is operated by the arm with the blue arrow, through a plastic lever entering through a hole in the plate.
Oh yes.Can't you take off the arm with the blue arrow ?
Needed to clean the muting contacts, here goes.
Before starting, take of the pickup and platter, secure the pickup arm with a piece of tape to the top board. Secure transport screw, turn to stop and then one turn CCW
Place 4 pieces of wood, cups or whatever, some 7-10 Cm. high, as support for the deck upside down. Place deck on supports, take of bottom cover.
Take of E-clips, red arrows. Unhook relay box and wires. Take of lamp housing, take lamp out of housing and sneak it out under swinging chassis.Green arrows. Place it all to the right side, outside the swinging chassis.
Unhook steel wires, Blue arrows
Unscrew adjusting screws, Yellow arrows
Desolder all wires, White arrow
Take of the arm for pickup arm lift and the big white gear wheel, push out pin for the flywheel gear, press down on the flywheel and it comes out.
Lamp assembly
Gears
Wires desoldered
Turn the deck around to upside up, take of the counter weight, unscrew it until end of screw, then pull until it comes of, mine was sitting very hard, because of damaged arm and weight, had to file and sand until it came on very smooth.
Unscrew Allen screw 2 turns, pull off arm, Be careful with the wires, they have to come out easy and without strain, help with pushing from below.
You can now turn the deck again, or take out the arm shaft, to clean and lubricate, mine was totally dry.
To take out the shaft, mark the position of the arm, there is a steel ring with a hole for the Allen screw, mark the hole with a permanent marker, and then when the shaft is out, make a mechanical point in the middle of the mark.
Arm off, steel ring off
Now press, from below, the shaft upwards and pry off the E-clip, warning they tend to fly away never to be found again.
Keeping a finger on below the shaft , press it down some 5 Mm. and then up again, take off the nylon ring and the funny steel ring, in there you will find 3 very small steel balls, take them out with a magnet or a magnetized screwdriver, dont loose them, nearly impossible to get new ones.
Pull shaft down and out
Check that the transport screw are one turn loose, turn the deck upside down, turn out the transport screws, the plates for chassis springs goes through the holes, no need to take the springs off. Place the swinging chassis upside down, and you will see the muting contacts
Here the contact, I measured megaohms, Kohms and Ohms, opening and closing several times, thats where the noise, on start and stop to the speakers, came from.
I use Deoxit from a bottle, dip a paper strip into it and place between the contacts, leave for 5 min. and clean the same way, pulling a paper strip with ISP between the contacts, I repeat this until the paper comes out clean, then I cleaned off the oxidation on the upper side. Checked again with the Ohm meter, no problems, 0 to 0.3 Ohm several times on both contacts. To get it all back together again, start here.
Here a pic after soldering the wires and a new 5 pin plug.
I put everything back in place, connected to my BM 4000 and the noise at start and stop is gone, but to cry for, my SP14 is gone, no sound in the right channel, tested with my BM 5000, same failure. so Axel will get more work.
My deck just went from USD 40.00 to some USD 160.00
My 1203 just arrived yesterday and it too is only 50 hz at 220 so i will need to do a similar fix
Find a good machinist to make the belt wheel, if you do it my way, if you dont find a machinist come back to me, I still have your stands here, havent been to the states since making them. Welcome back good to see you again
Rich:It’s like a bona fide reunion! Even Evan posted this week!
I'm usually always lurking! Even if I haven't made any progress on my own stuff, I "check in" on some threads here and there!
Hi,
Thank you so much for all the information you post on here.
This is the first time I have written on this forum and not sure how it works--especially as it is now 2019.
In the third photo above----are three items to me called 'circlips' - two are identical--- the other is larger- kind of a ' U' shape with
top sides turned out. Is it possible for you to show or tell exactly where this fits please?
Any information much appreciated.
Thanks.
hi.
Think the item referred to is called 'shifter spring'.
The photos are dated 22nd June 2012.
Yhank you
No. 172 or 174
Thank you
Hi Soren,
Its an old thread, but I remember you did refresh another one recently by relinking all the pictures.I know its a lot of work and maybe not an easy task, but may it be a chance you could do that here too.
Or maybe just pack the pictures and make them available to download if you still have them?
I did get recently a BG1202 and would like to refresh it as it seems to be the perfect machine to me (BG300 quality, with BG1200 plater).
Thank you.
matador43: Hi Soren, Its an old thread, but I remember you did refresh another one recently by relinking all the pictures.I know its a lot of work and maybe not an easy task, but may it be a chance you could do that here too. Or maybe just pack the pictures and make them available to download if you still have them? I did get recently a BG1202 and would like to refresh it as it seems to be the perfect machine to me (BG300 quality, with BG1200 plater). Thank you.
Pics back
Thank you Søren !
Hello all (my first post)
This I a great thread very helpful & informative, especially for a new owner of the Beogram 1202, I'm going to give mine a light service, everything seems to work fine, but at first the arm was dragged back across the record on return, this hasn't happened again, but it has made me a bit wary of using it with my decent records (this is my backup/lazy deck option) so I've found a post here that identifies the lifting mechanism and I have a light sawing oil to use, should I also apply this elsewhere, if so where? I also read of tge use of "silicone" grease, in which particular areas should that be used and can you recommend a decent one to buy?
Finally reading about how to work on the deck upside down, would using the lid as the support be a good idea or is it too weak to support the decks weight ?
Many thanks for a great forum!
Ho and welcome to Beoworld,
Very bad idea, If you're fortunate enough to have an unbroken lid, the last thing you want is to damage it while you're working on the deck.
I Usually use four high plastic glasses or plastic food boxes the same size, one on each corner, the open side against the deck to allow the control switch to go into the hole of the glass/ box. You have to secure the arm first by removing the counterweight and depending what you are gonna work on, maybe taping the arm to the top-plate with painter paper masking tape unless you're gonna work on arm movement.
If you take off the frame you can actually see and access the silent switch from the side, no need to take everything apart. You can insert a paper strip like you did Søren and with a small bent painters brush you can clean with contact cleaner overall as well.
Just thought I share that.