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ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

Speaker Surround Repair

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Speaker Surround Repair

Driver foam surrounds gets old and brittle with use and years, so vintage drivers (normally bass drivers) will need new surrounds, if your speaker has distorted sound in the lower tones, take of the speaker grill (USA "frets") and if it looks like this, its time to start working.

To get the right surrounds you will have to measure your driver, some sellers just sells what they think is right, so check the dimensions before buying.

Your dimensions may be 1-2 Mm different, but try to get as close to the original as possible. For an 8" driver glue strip to the cone should be at least 4-5 Mm. To the basket more like 8-10 Mm.   May be less for very small drivers and more for bigger ones.

Tools, red arrows are Acetate strips for shimming

The old surround and old glue, will have to come of, the best way to do it is with a hobby knife or razor blade. On the basket you can scrape and cut it of easily, but on the cone (mostly paper cones) you will have to work with care, not to damage the cone, DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENTS HERE. And don't cut of the dust cap, before you finish cleaning and have glued the inner edge of the surround to the cone

Clean

Check your spider, not warped and same look all around, if damaged you will have to get an expert to reconstruct your driver. this will include a new cone and spider, only if you are very skilled and know how drivers are build, you can do it yourself.

With everything clean and looking like new, apply glue to the cone where the inner edge shall go, You may wish to make a pen line all around the cone, marking the inner edge diameter.

Apply glue to the cone and/or surround, according to glue recommendations. This is too much, less will do

Now place the surround on the cone, carefully press the surround to the cone without pulling or stretching the surround, make sure the surround fits like this all around the cone

Press the surround to the cone with one finger under the cone and one finger over the surround, all around 2-3 times, When properly fitted, find a dish or something circular that fits exactly over the glue strip and put some wight upon it, leave until glue has dried.

Glue dry, now cut the dust cap, as close to the cone as possible and nearly all around, leaving a 2-3 Mm bit still attached to the cone

Fix it with tape, Green Arrow

Now start shimming, You will need some strips of different thickness, clear plastic film or transparencies, I use 0.05, 0.1 and 0.3 Mm, cut 10 x 80 Mm. strips, and start inserting strips all the way to the bottom, in the gap at "0", 120 and 240 degrees, the same count of strips at all 3 points, moving the cone in and out, adding strips until you feel the cone starts moving harder, the adjustment is right when the cone moves hard if an extra 0.1 Mm. strip is inserted at one of the 3 points. Red Arrow, paint with a marker, its easier to see them.

DO NOT use cardboard or paper for shimming, its not precise enough and may leave dirt in the voice coil.

Now add glue to the basket and/or surround outer edge, press the surround to the basket, same way as to the cone, two fingers all around, without pulling or pushing.

If your driver has a gasket, Red Arrow, place that over the glued surround and/or find a circular item that fits over it and add some weight to it, Blue Arrows, leave to dry.

When dry, retract the plastic strips and check, moving the cone in and out, with 3 finger on the cone, if the voice coil moves freely and without "scratching" sound its OK, glue back the dust cap with just a small strip of glue on the cut.

When the glue is dry, you can connect your driver to the crossover and connect the speaker to an amp for testing, or if you are an optimist, build it into your speaker, connect to your amp and test, start at low volume and let it play for an hour or 2, then gradually increase the volume and bass levels until you are satisfied that it works okay, if you at the same time changed your caps or repaired your crossovers, there will be some "playing in" time before the speaker will reach the correct sound.

Finished

Recent Comments

By: Leslie Posted on Fri, Mar 2 2012 2:07 PM

The old surround and old glue, will have to come of, the best way to do it is with a hobby knife or razor blade. On the basket you can scrape and cut it of easily, but on the cone (mostly paper cones) you will have to work with care, not to damage the cone, DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENTS HERE.

Received a refoaming instruction video where alcohol have been used for cleaning the cones edges. Now, who should I follow?

By: Søren Mexico Posted on Fri, Mar 2 2012 3:18 PM

If you have a paper cone, don't use solvents, if its an other material, test the material carefully before cleaning.

By: GoodHifi Posted on Mon, Mar 19 2012 10:10 AM
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For shimming, use old photo film

By: GoodHifi Posted on Mon, Mar 19 2012 10:18 AM
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Even if you do not change the caps - there will be a 'playing in time'. The last time your listened to the speakers the rings must (nearly) have fallen apart already, and after putting net surrounds on your woofer the surround will be much stiffer than the last tikme you listened, Count on a 'playing in time' of at least 24 hrs. Of course, you can make your woofer 'play in'  in a different room, or in a barn, for an extensive periode (2 x 24 hrs) and then put it back in the cabinet.

By: Bob Posted on Sun, Sep 9 2012 12:16 AM

Just done BeoVox 3702 with kit from Netherlands and after glowing frets on, find out that one of bass drivers is gone :( Thanks to careless shippers have spare pair (smashed in transit) - just waiting for other foam kit