ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello,
picked up a pair of S75s that need some attention. Quick questions:
1) One speaker has the 2-DIN cable socket removed (it's modified with just a pair of cables). Does anyone know what part is the replacement / where I can buy it? Preferably with screws in the back so I can avoind soldering
2) Is there any way I can tell which wooden trim is used, so I can buy the correct Restor-A-Finish?
3) Stands: I might get a pair of S30 stands dirt cheap. I assume they are not a direct fit, but can I just take a small plate, drill the right holes and at least it will be OK visually?
Beovox S30 stands would look wrong.You need the Type 6012 stands, - unique to Beovox S75.
Wood sorts: See my post in this thread:https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/16436.aspx
Martin
Thanks Martin. I know the stands are not correct. In which way would they look wrong? Will they do as placeholders until I find the proper one?
They would be very high, and I seem to remember the S75 feet are both wider and deeper to better balance the larger and heavier speakers.These three combined, I wouldn't recommend.
Thanks. My plaque says T6313, I can assume these are Teak?
Anyone making cheap replicas? I need them up on something nice looking while I groom the setup over time.
Any idea about the speaker side 2din male connector?
Just tested the one speaker with original connector. BASS. CX100 sounds like a mobile phone in comparison.
The "T" in T6313 is for "Type".The woodsort will be stamped on separately - if at all.
Look at the link I provided and compare. Or give us a photo to look at.
like this: E is oak
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Nothing of the sort on mine, but looks pretty rosewood to me. I will refurbish. What is your suggestion for repairing and refinishing the surface? I'm relcutant to sand them down. Is there any wonder product like Restor-A-Finish for us here in Scandinavia?
In case you have heard it all, where would you place the S75 in the Beovox "hierarchy" in terms of sound and desirability? I quite like them a lot with my BM5500, considerably more bass and much warmer sound than the CX100 they replaced. The latter were very crisp in the highs, but I think the S75 still retains ample trebles and a satisfying, unghostly mid. But compared to M-series and the bigger S'es?
I start cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol, depending on how dirty (layers of Pledge, wax or lacquered with something) at times I use acetone for the first cleaning, careful acetone may damage plastics and loosen glues.
Then sand the wood with 200 grain sand paper or this (these hand pads I find better than sandpaper, they dont run full, and you can use them over and over again) I sand until small scratches and marks disappear and the surfaces has the same color over all, deep damages can be repaired with a mix of wood glue and sanding dust.
Mix the dust with glue until you have a heavy paste, clean the damage with a cutter and acetone, press the paste into the scratch/hole, level off wit a knife or spatula. This only for smaller deep scratches, if bigger, you will have to cut out the damaged veneer and glue in a new piece of veneer fitting the grain and cut out.
When the repaired areas are dry, sand again with 200 grain or hand pad, if you want a finer finish, sand with 400 grain, Clean off dust with a brush and then with Iso alcohol or a rag moistened with water, let dry. Now soak the wood with Boiled linseed oil (also known as Danish Oil), after half an hour, wipe off excess, let dry for 12 hours, sand lightly with hand pad or 400 grain, clean off dust, soak with oil, 1/2 hour, wipe off excess, let dry 12 hours, polish with lint free rag, done. After a couple of years, sand light, clean, soak, wipe off excess, let dry, polish, and it looks like new again.
The Linseed oil stinks, so do this outside or in the garage.
For sanding, use a sanding block or a piece of wood that fits in your hand, wrapped with sanding paper or hand pad. Do NOT use machine, the veneer is very thin on some some items.
Always sand until all darker areas are gone, and an even light brown color is reached, the wood will turn darker and the grain be more accented after oiling.
Daily (weekly) cleaning with rag moistened with soapy water. Use no furniture sprays or cleaners.
Thanks, Søren.
Hi,
do not be afraid to do the job and follow Soren's tutorial. It is not as difficult and the result will surprise you. Many of us tried this before with excellent result. From my point od view, this work needs patience ,but is very easy. See before and after status here:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/37606.aspx
Use reccomended stuff at first in wood work (alcohol, sending, linseed oil), then try to use tint or another products, when result will not be ideal.
Great result. My situation is similar, but not as bad as your's was.My problem is that I have no other place than my small flat to do this in. Very smelly stuff or dangerous fumes are unacceptable. Upon advice from a professional in fine carpentry, I bought https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/finishing-oil/ .
Just waiting for masking tape and time now :)
And stands! I need stands.
Hi again,
above mentioned thread is not my work, but nicely displaing, how you huge can be such an upgrade. Think about possible working place (friends garrague?), I was working in my guarrage, temperatures during winter from 0 to -5 Celsius (listening Beosystem 10).
Try to remove everything from speakers (grills, drivers, cables, crossovers), wipe all wooden walls with alcohol at home, let it dry overnight (alcohol smell is tolerable ).
Take boxes out of flat (balcony, open air, ...) and sand it with recommended sanding grids and clean with alcohol again), let it dry again. After that only treatment with linseed oil, or product, that you bought, seems to be fine for this work.
You will love that work and your speakers filally.