ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi
I am new here and from the USA (please do not hold that against me). I have always wanted to get something from B&O and recently I had a chance at a Yard sale. I got a Beosystem 2500. It looks very interesting and sounds pretty nice but there are problems to sort out. I suspect it was stored in a barn gor years. The Tape deck is the main problem. When a tape is inserted and play pressed I can hear a whirring sound but nothing happens. I was unable to find a service manual that told how to access the belts but a couple of hours of work have gotten me far enough inside so that I can see a little of the flywheel and I found that the belt is melty. I also found and tested the little soldered in place fuses in the back of the large board and found that three of them are not conducting. I used a continuity tester. They must be for the tape since other things seem to work fine so far.
I could use a diagram to help me get in to where I can clean out the melty belt and replace belts. I would also love it if someone could direct me to a link explaining how to read the markings on those tiny fuses and replace them. I could also use a US source for the belt if that is possible.
I have restored several large receivers and many other things from the 60's to 80's so I am no stranger to work with circuit boards and part replacement but this is a different animal entirely. I hope that I don't wind up just putting it back together and forgetting about the cassette! Any help you can offer would be appreciated.
Thanks
You are rescuing a vintage B&O piece from the trash heap so I suspect you'll find that you're among friends. The source of choice for tape deck belts is a member by the name of Dillen (Martin). Send him a PM. He will include instructions with the belt. If you need the service manual it's available here on Beoworld for silver and gold members. Sorry, but I can't assist you with regard to fuses.
Welcome to Beoworld!
I have the belt, that's correct. But I don't have mounting instructions for this model (yet).
Martin
RalphARoni:read the markings on those tiny fuses and replace them
These are not fuses. They are caps and resistors.
Service manual can be downloaded for silver & gold members.
The tape deck must be removed to change the belt. Remove the front, release the four screws holding the deck and remove it forward from the chassis. Carefully disconnect all connectors. This whole operation can be tricky. When the deck i free, remove the plate holding the motor to access the belt.
//Bo.A long list...
Thanks. How long does it take to ship to the USA? I have still not gotten all the way in to the transport as yet. I will need to get full access to remove the goo. I am still working on that. The official Service manual (which I do have) has schematics but no instructions on how to get in there. I have done quite a few belt replacements but none were so hard to get to but I do love an adventure! It is playing some Franz List from the FM right now and the CD works wonderfully. The Beolink 1000 had leaky batteries and only has partial function. I am working on that now with high hopes for it. The glass tries to open but only makes it an inch or so. I cannot see an easy way to get to the cables as yet but I will work on that later today. If anyone has a link to instructions on how to re cable them I would love it. The sensor works, that is good. The problem could be the stop sensor or the cables. It is looking better too.!
See this thread with regard to the glass door issue. And battery leakage in Beolink 1000's is common; scrape the corrosion away from the contacts and it will probably function again.
I think, the circled components are actually diodes, forming a rectifier.
Thank you very much. I read in another place that they were fuses that looked like resistors. I am glad I came here for advice from those who know! I am glad it is done from the front. That is easier and I can probably sort out the glass movement at the same time. I appreciate the advice. I'll give it a try today and let you know what I find. This is a unique device. I am guessing that the early Bose Wave machines were around then. This is cooler by far!.
Thanks BO
I am trying to get the front off without damage. I can't see any screws. There are some plastic snap fasteners along the sides but I can't see anything on the inside or top and bottom. I am afraid of forcing and breaking them. B&O sure is fond of fittings that snap together! Any advice on how to get in there without rick?
I got the remote going. I had to pull up the tape that covers the contacts and scrape the corrosion off some of them.
I checked the track for the glass and it was seriously cruddy. I bet cleaning will fix it.
Remove the glass door by pulling the outer edge toward you. The black side panels behind the door are just hold in place by plastic tabs with hooks. Remove them by moving them slightly sideways when pulling them towards you. Be careful not brake off any of the holding tabs. The front is then mounted by 8 torx (T10) screws . Fold up the CD clamper before removing the front. Disconnect all cables, Be careful not to make any scratches to the front during disassemble and assembly. Its very easily done (own experience :-(.
There is a video an YouTube some where showing the process.
See my previous post on cleaning/lubricating with silicone spray. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. 'Might not on a 2500 due to age.
Found it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcrPJcZOwfg
Thank you all for your help. The belt will be on the way soon. I removed the contact switches in the remote and removed the corrosion under them, Then I cleaned the battery holder and contacts and soldered new wires. It now works fine. I am pretty sure the glass problem is sorted but won't know till it is reassembled.
I did get into the front to expose the tape deck and for those who come along after me here is how I got in. Probably not right but it worked for me
The above pic shows the front plate from the left side flipped over with the first set of tabs to be pried out marked in red and the second set in green.
This one shows the unit with the cover and glass in place. The glass needs to be off to remove the cover. The right hand side of the cover (red) needs to be gently persuaded to come off. I used fingers but you night need a scraper. I started at the top, then went to the bottom and wiggled until the right side came loose. After the Right side is loose the cover has to be wiggled carefully with the right side rotated out from the body to dislodge the clips which are fairly long. You may need to poke a screwdriver or scraper in where the green is to get them to come loose. Be careful and have patience. Find the 2 screws that secure the center section and remove. The center can now be pulled out but take pictures and notes and beware the small but critical parts that will fall from unidentified places and make note of where they came from. The linkage from the CD hatch will have to be teased loose and parts captured. See pic.
This last pic shows the wires unplugged from the control panel. It gives a little more room. I am not sure how to get the unit itself out. I will add more when the belt gets here.
This is possibly the most serious and tricky problem because it could cause a serious problem or two. I need advice if anyone here has experience with this. These two burned areas could simply be old and overheating and need replacement or that there are problems in the power supply that need to be addressed in addition to replacing them. Does anyone know what they do? Any experience with this? What did you do? The second pic shows a scorched area on another board. This one is visible from the front, to the left of the CD and near the door motor.
I will check the service manual for instructions on checking the DC offset and adjusting the bias just in case. Anything you know know would help me.
I guess the burnt areas comes from an overloaded door motor. Probably caused by the door opening wirer being jammed. If door, clamper & lamp function work then it's not broken.
The belts came in the mail yesterday. I had gotten to where I had the front panel off. I cannot get to where I can replace the belt and clean the flywheel and motor pully.i I simply cannot find any way to free it up and take it out the front as suggested. There are 2 screws that may hold it in but they require the removal of the CD section and there is nothing that I can find that would let it come out of the front. I could not find the U Tube video. Any information that anyone could give me might help me to figure this out! Has anyone replaced these belts? I am stuck.
I have found a source for a full repair shop manual for the Beocenter 2500 and the 2300. I hope it will help me and it might help you also. It is here.
http://elektrotanya.com/bang_olufsen_beocenter_2300_2500.pdf/download.html
RalphARoni:I could not find the U Tube video.
Here.
Thank You! That helps a lot. Now I can get the CD out of the way to remove the two screws on top of the tape deck. It looks as if they have to come out. The repair manual says I will have to go into the back but I will let you know how things go.
testing diode rectifiers in a circuit can be tricky as you might be measuring the coils in prallel also and get a bad impression of the diodes condition
Hi, did you complete your restoration project? I've just bought an old 2500 too - fab unit but I too need to undertake some minor maintenance.
Be good to hear how you got on.
Julian