ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I will shortly be wall mounting a Beocenter 6-26, hopefully using one of the Pull and Rotate brackets. I have a couple of queries about this:
Any actual experience will be welcome. I REALLY do not want to get this wrong and end up with a broken Beocenter!
Mark
With the bracket on a plasterboard wall , just make sure it's screwed into a vertical stud .( Try a pilot hole first) but a brick wall just needs a suitable plug with the screw. Capacity will be specified in the shop/ packaging. We've got a beocentre 6/23 on a stud wall and rotating bracket and it's fine.
Beo Century ,Beoplay V1, Beocenter 6, Ex-Beolit 12, Beotime , A8. Beolit 15 , Form 2i , Beolab 2000, Beoplay A3.Beosound 1
No, it's not not plasterboard - it's a "composite" block wall, with real plaster on top. Therefore I have to fix into the blocks themselves. The question is "how?"
One idea I found on the net was to use resin to hold threaded studs in place. This seems like a good idea, but I'd like to seek the wisdom of the experienced before I take that approach.
Hi Mark,
are the composite blocks solid or have cavities? The resin system is used here quite a lot for holding all sorts of large and heavy items e.g. extending shades over windows on the outside of a building. It's strong stuff and will hold several hundred Kg of force. Another method is with shield anchor bolts such as these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m8-x-10mm-pack-of-5/62313
or
http://www.screwfix.com/p/shield-anchor-bolt-type-8-x-60mm-drill-size-14-pack-of-5/14258
but use the appropriate size. They are also incredibly strong if fitted properly.
Dave.
The blocks are solid. They're about four inches thick, with a three inch cavity between block and brick.
I've used shield anchors in brick, but I've never used them in composite blocks. That's why I'm being cautious here, as I've got no experience at fixing heavy items to blocks. Which materials have you seen them used in?
I've used them in brick and stone mainly as a home DIYer. I have also used them in concrete blockwork as the houses here are mainly built using this form, rather than brick. I have a BV7-32 wall mounted in blockwork and it's really solid - if it falls off it would land on a BC9500 and a BG9000 so I made sure it would be a strong fitting. Admittedly it's not on a moving stand though.
I would have thought that they would work well in the blockwork you have but to be sure, why not have a word with 'Wickes', a similar supplier or send the manufacturer a quick e-mail or phone them. They test them in all sorts of materials so should be able to give you a definitive answer.
Good advice, Dave. The manufacturers should be the best source of information - I'll try to catch them later today. I guess that I really need to calculate the potential force on the two upper studs, from the weight of the TV, the length of the bracket arm and the distance between the upper and lower bolts.
But do you know the shear strength of the composite blocks? The bolts won't shear that's for sure.
Good luck.
Sadly not. The bolts will be under tension, not shear, anyway. But they should be rated for a given hold force in tension, within specified materials and that's what I was thinking of. Effectively, the arm provides a lever, so the upper bolts will be under greater force than the lower ones.
Why not do a trial? - bolt the bracket to a spare wall (perhaps inside a cupboard where any damage wont show too much) and add weight equivalent to a BV6 at full stretch. See how it feels and then repeat in situ.
Don't use shield or expanding anchors near the top of a wall or in a brick or block joint or mortar course as they can break the bond and lift the top of the wall. On the other hand, the inner leaf of a cavity wall is usually carrying the roof and floor loads so the bricks are usually under enough compression.
Anchors need a very precise drilling of the hole to be effective.
Resin anchors are safest because they resist a high pull out force (top bolts will be under tension of maybe 5 or more times the weight of the TV) and they don't apply any expanding or bursting forces to the bricks. Use bolts or anchors that are near the full thickness of the brickwork (don't drill right through or you will lose the resin into the cavity).
If in doubt, fix the bracket and load it up to several times the weight of the TV to test it before mounting the TV. And don't forget that the worst loading will come from someone tripping and grabbing the TV rather than from the TV itself.
Graham
OK, looks like I've got to experiment a little first. I agree with you that it needs to survive maximum loading of TV + one person. Thankfully we're a slim family!
Stuart,
As the gentleman who was going to supply me with a bracket is now unable to do so, I'm looking for something suitable. Could you let me know what she is looking for if she sells the bracket, and when it is likely to be available?
Having spoken with a former colleague who understands these things, I've now realised that I'm going to need to use resin fixings. Having read up on these, I wish I'd come across them previously, since they seem to solve a lot of the issues which shield bolts raise.
Thank you for your offer, but I'm afraid that I'm based in Worcestershire. I enjoy learning new techniques, but I do believe in trying to find out the best solution before starting work - it's how we grow!