ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello Jan,
I know we have spoken about this by email, but I thought it could be helpful to post some ideas for other Beoworlders to consider as well.
Steve.
www.soundsheavenly.com
Founder of Sounds Heavenly Cables and Brand Ambassador for Bang & Olufsen
Sounds Heavenly are proud to sponsor BeoWorld!
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Steve at Sounds Heavenly: Firstly, why not link the digital output of the Sonos directly into the S/PDIF input of the V1 with this cable? That is the way I have my Squeezebox connected to my V1 - works perfectly! The input is assigned to 'A.MEM' on the Beo4 - but you can choose that as you please. And you can use the settings of the audioengine/V1 to have the sound (incl speakers group) as you want to - which would not be possible with a connection through a switch. A much easier setup and (sorry Steve) also cheaper. MM There is a tv - and there is a BV
That is the way I have my Squeezebox connected to my V1 - works perfectly!
The input is assigned to 'A.MEM' on the Beo4 - but you can choose that as you please.
And you can use the settings of the audioengine/V1 to have the sound (incl speakers group) as you want to - which would not be possible with a connection through a switch.
A much easier setup and (sorry Steve) also cheaper.
MM
There is a tv - and there is a BV
Steve and Millemissen
connecting the SONOS via SPDIF to the V1 as described by both of you, works fine indeed - as long as you play your Sonos in stand-alone mode.
When you play in multi-room, the V1 delays the sound a little bit (because of its sound processing engine). This makes it impossible to have your sonos playing in the kitchen and the living room at the same time. The delay is very disturbing! You simple cannot walk from the one room to the other without noticing it.
That is the reason why a use a powerlink switch in between. I would have preferred not to use it, but I don't know of any other solution. in case someone has a good suggestion for a set-up without delay, I would be very interested in hearing about it.
Jan
Hi Jan,
Thanks for updating the thread - after I posted my reply, I saw your email which mentioned that you have other Sonos players in the house. Connecting the Sonos to the S/PDIF input of the V1 works well except for the audio delay introduced by the TV. This only becomes a problem if you have other Sonos players in the house and you play the same music through them all (ie. "Party" mode), then the V1 will lag the sound behind the Sonos players in the other rooms.
Hence, in this case the Powerlink switch is a good option. Another suggestion is to fit small audio delay units to the outputs of the other Sonos players (ie. to adjust them to play with a matched delay to the V1) - this works well but can get complex and expensive if you have many Sonos players.
Kind regards, Steve.
Yoo could try to connect it through the analog-in of the V1.
But you would need an adapter - or rather two: 1: the 'mini connector to scart female' (B&O part number 6271215) and 2: a 'scartadapter with phono' (left/right inputs).
Maybe not a simple solution, but simpler and cheaper than the PL switch.
jans:Hello Beoworld, As already mentioned in another thread, I plan on upgrading my Beolab 8000's to Beolab 9. This will also require to change my cabling from Powerlink mk1 to mk3. Here is my question. I use a Bosscom Powerlink Switch between my V1 and Sonos and the Beolab's. Does anyone know if this Powerlink Switch will work correctly with my Beolab 9's and the Mk3 cabling. Judging from their datasheet, it looks as if their wiring scheme is still based on Mk1. Looking forward to your feedback Jan
As already mentioned in another thread, I plan on upgrading my Beolab 8000's to Beolab 9.
This will also require to change my cabling from Powerlink mk1 to mk3.
Here is my question.
I use a Bosscom Powerlink Switch between my V1 and Sonos and the Beolab's. Does anyone know if this Powerlink Switch will work correctly with my Beolab 9's and the Mk3 cabling. Judging from their datasheet, it looks as if their wiring scheme is still based on Mk1.
Looking forward to your feedback
As far as I know, the main difference between MKI - MK III is PIN 7, that will be used as an additional ground in MKIII for ICE power amps.
So, why not solder a bridge connecting input2 socket/ PIN7 and output/PIN7. This could be done in your PL switchbox or by connecting the PL-plugs of your MKIII Powerlink cables - similiar to PIN2, that are already bridged in the PL-box.
Too simple? Or did I miss something ?
Stefan