ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello, everyone. I recently acquired an example of the Beogram 4002 (type 5513) at a 'swap-meet' for a very good price (US$5!). The seller told me it'd belonged to a friend of his, and that he hadn't tried it out. It's not in the best of shape, showing rust spots along the front of the top plate, and missing the cartridge (though the red-orange plastic bracket which holds the arms together for shipping is there). Also, the DIN connector shows signs of corrosion (will probably have to replace it, methinks; any ideas about that?).
My question is, what should I do before I power it up? I've heard tales of popped transistors and burnt-out solenoid coils in these units, possibly due to bad electrolytic capacitors. Should I 'shotgun' all of the old electrolytics before applying a volt to it, or might it be okay to power it up briefly for testing purposes first? Should I use a variable transformer (otherwise known as a 'variac') to slowly apply mains power to the circuitry? As usual, thanks in advance!
-Adam
Beogram: 3000 | 4002 | 8000 (2) | 1800 | RX | RX 2 | TX 2 | CD 6500
Beomaster: 1000 | 8000 | 6000 | 2000 | 6500
Beocord: 8002 (2) | 2000
Beovox: M70 | S45.2
Is there such a thing as too much Beostuff?
US$5! You were robbed! What a steal. OK so not in the best of shape by the sound of it but well worth saving. I have one in almost daily use and love it.
As you have no money invested in it at present, I'd be tempted to invest in replacement capacitors (kit from 'Dillen' I think). Clean and lubricate all points as previously discussed here on Beoworld - search the forum for BG4000, 4002, 4004.
The top plate is Aluminium so shouldn't have 'rust' spots. Pictures would be nice. You probably should replace the DIN connector but could try cleaning it first if corroded as it could also be internal.
Variac would be safer.
If you just power it up before doing anything you do run the risk of something 'giving way' and causing damage to further components.
Dave.
The first thing is to get a service manual. Then learn how to open up the Beogram deck and examine the inside. It will need cleaning and the belt will likely need replacing.
You will need to lubricate the arm pivots and the mechanics around the solenoid. This is mandatory.
Do not forget the worm screw. Take it out and clean it thoroughly.
Jacques
Thanks for the replies.
What do you mean by the arm pivots? As it is, the tonearm seems to move fairly freely.
Is lubrication of this stuff covered in the service manual? Is there anything I should know about before I work on the feedscrew?
I will post photos of the unit soon. The 'rust spots' indeed are just stains from something else, though I'm concerned as to how they might've gotten there. Given them and the corrosion of the DIN connector, I have a feeling it spent some time in a moist location, though overall it seems to be in OK shape.
A lot of these vintage audio pieces were put away by the owners years ago. Unfortunately, many of them were also stored in places that exposed the equipment to undesirable things like moisture and heat. I have seen a number of Beocord decks that look great on the outside but inside, the original belts melted down to a black tar. I have always been able to get them cleaned back up but it is a lot of work. The Beogram 4002 is also belt driven so once you get it apart, check it and plan to replace it. I would recommend completely going over it before trying to use it.
The service manuals for the BG4002 do have a page the describe the types of lubrication to use although nowadays most people use more modern, synthetic oil and grease instead.