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Hi,
I have been looking around the forum reading threads on similar problems. But I could seem to find answer that quite matched my problem.
I have a Beogram 2000 that has run very little, but been standing still for a long time. I ran it and it was ok.
But then it started running slow, and making a lot of "static" sound when engaging and disengaging the arm (not from the turntable itself, but through the speakers). Now it stops when speeds 25 or 30 are engaged.
I locked the transport screws, removed the pickup and had a look inside.
After some looking around it seems to me that it is because these two (the wheel and the pin) does not touch when the speed is set to 25 or 30. Is it because the drivebelt is too loose ?
Thanks,
Jens, Denmark
The idler wheel, has to move up and down when changing speed, if not the mech. has seized up, and if it does not reach the motor pulley, the same is the reason. The stopping of the platter has the same reason, if the idler wheel has no contact to the pulley, the platter does not turn. the speaker noises you hear, is a dirty or bad muting contacts, if the platter do not move, the muting function stays engaged, and if dirty it will let some signal through.
Solution: take apart the mechanical drive, clean and lubricate it, get a new belt from Axel , tell him you need the round belt (old type BG 2000). The belt is important as it also help with the idler wheel pressure.
As you are in there, clean and lub it all, meaning clean off old grease and oil, lub with sewing machine oil or Liquid Bearings (E-Bay) and silicone grease.
There is thread here, it may be of some help
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Thanks so much for your answer :)
I had been looking at that thread and hoping not to go that far. But here I am, halfway, ready to clean and lube everything.
I have a question about the dirt contacts you're talking about, is it these ?
No , the muting contact is sitting below the swinging chassis,near the tonearm shaft, the arm coming from the cam gear, going to the tonearm lift mechanism, has, just before it reach the tonearm lift shaft, a hole in it, through this hole comes a tap (red arrow in pic), which activates/deactivates the muting contacts, it is a PIB to get at it, I took off the whole swinging chassis.
If the tap is there, make sure it moves freely, together with the arm movement, with the tonearm in rest position, the muting contacts are normally closed, when in play position, normally open.
Your pic is the main relay, there clean the contacts with Dioxit, dont use anything abrasive to clean, as this will destroy the contacts, I cut small strips of paper, wet these with Dioxit, then apply the Dioxit to the contacts, leave for 5-10 min, and then insert a clean paper strip, between the different contact pairs, applying a little pressure with a small screwdriver, and then pull out the strip, I repeat this on all contact pairs, until the paper strip comes out clean.
Whatever you do, NEVER spray contact cleaner into the start-relay.It contains pieces of paxolin used for insulation pruposes and certain types of contact cleaner canmake the paxolin material conductive. This causes arcing, heat build-up and eventually smoke and fire.
Martin