ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
A few years ago I bought a complete 3300 system from the original owner.
Beomaster 3300 receiver ((with remote)
Beocord 3300 cassette deck
Beogram 3300 CD player
Beogram 3300 Turn table (MMC 3 cartridge installed)
and 2 Redline 60 speakers.
I LOVE this system! The look is pure art.. and the sound quality.. oh my.. If you're reading this, you know..
After plugging in all the components to the proper jacks/DIN connections the Beogram 3300 (turn-table) didn't produce sound/output when a LP is played. All other components work and sound great!
The the original owner has kept the system in "as new" condition (He gave me the original B&O shipping boxes and Owners Manuals from 1986 or so too!)
Long question short..
How do I know if I actually need a pre-amp for the turn-table? could there be a blown capacitor? a bad ground? I don't mind spending the money with "Steve" to fix the problem, though I'm not inclined to gamble hard earned cash on diagnoses by guess work.
Thanks for your advice/opinion,
Chad
The BM 3300 has a build in preamp http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=342 Check that your plug is properly inserted, check the cartridge is properly inserted, after that it starts to get technical, open the deck and so on. Does CD and tape work correctly ??
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Thank's Soren
Both the CD and Tape player/s function fine.
The DIN cable was properly inserted, and I've carefully cleaned both the stylus and the pins on the MMC cartridge with alcohol.
I can handle "technical".
Thanks,
BTW, Is that a 1800 Reel to Reel on your signature?
Double post/reply
Open the deck (I am no familiar with the BG 3300) and check connections from cartridge throughout to pins on plug, some where in there there must be muting relay, which is blocking the signal (my first thought) Bad connections normally shows as a lost channel not both
Here the muting switch
But before you start opening up the Beogram, simply try plugging it into the Tape or the CD socket on the receiver. The sound will be very low - but you can hear if there's sound in both channels. If so - then there's probably nothing wrong with the Beogram.
If there's no sound, then follow Sørens instructions. Or - maybe some wires has broken off inside the DIN plug (it is although very rare that they break in both channels at the same time).
Steffen: But before you start opening up the Beogram, simply try plugging it into the Tape or the CD socket on the receiver. The sound will be very low - but you can hear if there's sound in both channels. If so - then there's probably nothing wrong with the Beogram. If there's no sound, then follow Sørens instructions. Or - maybe some wires has broken off inside the DIN plug (it is although very rare that they break in both channels at the same time).
If you do this, you will need to remove pins 6 and 7 (they unscrew) as the Beomaster will switch to the wrong source otherwise. If the RIAA is working, it will be normal volume.
Peter
Peter: Steffen: But before you start opening up the Beogram, simply try plugging it into the Tape or the CD socket on the receiver. The sound will be very low - but you can hear if there's sound in both channels. If so - then there's probably nothing wrong with the Beogram. If there's no sound, then follow Sørens instructions. Or - maybe some wires has broken off inside the DIN plug (it is although very rare that they break in both channels at the same time). If you do this, you will need to remove pins 6 and 7 (they unscrew) as the Beomaster will switch to the wrong source otherwise. If the RIAA is working, it will be normal volume.
But there is no RIAA in the Beogram 3300. So it will be low volume... ;-)
[View:http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/themes/hawaii/utility/:800:0]
Thanks for the assistance guys.
I've somehow managed to mis-place the DIN plugs metal shield so I'll be over to the LES this afternoon to find a replace cable.
There are 4 active wires coming from the cable and attached to the DIN pins, and a single black wire that IIRC was soldered to the metal shield (chassis ground?), Does this sound correct?
Once I get the replace plug installed I'll try the tests that have been suggested and report back here.
Steffen: Peter: Steffen: But before you start opening up the Beogram, simply try plugging it into the Tape or the CD socket on the receiver. The sound will be very low - but you can hear if there's sound in both channels. If so - then there's probably nothing wrong with the Beogram. If there's no sound, then follow Sørens instructions. Or - maybe some wires has broken off inside the DIN plug (it is although very rare that they break in both channels at the same time). If you do this, you will need to remove pins 6 and 7 (they unscrew) as the Beomaster will switch to the wrong source otherwise. If the RIAA is working, it will be normal volume. But there is no RIAA in the Beogram 3300. So it will be low volume... ;-)
And also will have a VERY non-flat freq response. And probably hum to boot.
Jeff
I'm afraid I'm recovering from the BeoVirus.
I pity anyone who asks for advice on Beogram connections - it's never going to be a simple one-stop answer!
But don't despair Chad, we'll get it working. As you have a full 3300 system that was designed to work together, you certainly do not need any extra pre-amps. If I understood correctly, the DIN plug of your Beogram is or has been in pieces. Install a new or complete plug per the diagram Soren posted, and hopefully that will be all that is needed. But if you are going to get a new plug, try to get one with seven pins or the remote control of the Beogram is not going to work (that's the yellow wire you had going to pin 6, not shown in the diagram).
--mika
My LES doesn't carry 7-pin connectors so I just ordered a few from Ebay.
I was able to patch up and plug the existing connector into the receiver and test it in all input plugs (phono, CD, and tape).
In addition; I have a after-market DIN cable that I typically plug into the tape input jack and play my Ipod through. When I plug it into the phono jack I do get the music.
There is no sound produced from any of the alternate input jacks when the turn-table is plugged into them, though when plugged into the phono jack the remote does control the turn-table.
Is there a way to test (ohm meter or?) the MMC cartridge to tell if it's good or bad?
I did notice a momentary pronounced low-frequency sound through the speakers when the tangential arm moved from play to standby. ('could be the muting switch acting up as Soren suggested, I'll check that after I deal with #2 in my lessons learned so far).
Lessons learned thus far:
1. MMC or any B&O cartridge is extremely expensive to purchase.
2. Do not take apart something that though it looks pretty simple in design (tangential arm assy) is hard to re-assemble correctly (I'm working on that now).
3. The world-wide support and knowledge of B&O enthusiasts is GREAT!
I think I'm now going to mix a cocktail, put a CD in, and enjoy the aural therapy of my B&O.
Cheers,
PS; Thanks for the support and encouragement mika.
My Mistake - I read wrongly at the top that the BG3300 had a built in RIAA - the pins advice stands!
I may found the problem..
My Beogram 3300 (TYPE: 5933 / SERIAL NO 05351949) does not have a built-in RIAA Amplifier installed.
I was looking at the component diagram in the B&O Service Manual and comparing it to my Beogram.. low and behold; component #4 (RIAA Amplifier) is missing (never installed) in myBeogram.
I am frustrated beyond belief... As the "3300" was/is a matched component system (plug & play) no where in the B&O literature does it mention having to run a external amplifier between the Beogram 3300 and the Beomaster 3300.
Did I miss something?
The sticker on the rear reads:
1986 BANG & OLUFSEN TYPE:5933
SERIAL NO 05251949
I'm feeling pretty down right.. after spending a day or two replacing the tonearm wires, and checking then rechecking contacts and functions...
Thanks everyone for the help and assistance with my Beogram.
Okay I just re-read Soren's post about the Beomaster 3300 having a built in RIAA Amp.. Would this "built in" amp mean that the Beogram RIAA isn't needed?
The preamp is installed in the BM; 3300, http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=342
Thanks Soren! I was typing my edit when you responded.. So the Beogram 3300 doesn't require a RIAA amp as the Beomaster has one internally?
Bimmerpilot: I am frustrated beyond belief... As the "3300" was/is a matched component system (plug & play) no where in the B&O literature does it mention having to run a external amplifier between the Beogram 3300 and the Beomaster 3300. Did I miss something?
Yes!!! You missed every answer from people trying to help you...
Bimmerpilot: Thanks Soren! I was typing my edit when you responded.. So the Beogram 3300 doesn't require a RIAA amp as the Beomaster has one internally? Chad
That is excactly what Søren wrote in his first post:
"The BM 3300 has a build in preamp http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=342 "
- and I wrote it too in my postings.
There is no RIAA in the BG 3300 - it is in the Beomaster... Can it be said more clear than that? " />
I think I got confused somewhere between Beomaster (The main unit) and Beogram (turntable). It's crystal clear now .. Thanks for helping me clarify that to myself Steffen
After taking a few days off to give the project a rest..
I rewired the tonearm as at least one of the super-thin wires had disconnected from the PCB, re-calibrated the tangential arm assy to the other gears, idlers, etc. (the ground wire in the tone arm was attached to a small brass piece that didn't appear to interact with the cartridge head in any way, it appears that the brass piece only made contact with the tone arm body (?) ).
I tested the mute switch with a ohm meter and it's functioning (though I wouldn't mind bypassing it in the future).
Still no sound when plugged into the Beomaster... Though a interesting development; If I touch a finger on or near the tone-arm I'm getting a pronounced low-frequency hum through the speakers.
This whole problem is looking more like a bad/missing ground somewhere.
I received the new 7-pin Din connectors today, and time permitting I'll solder them onto the cable this weekend.
Thanks again Everyone!