ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I just purchased a beautiful beogram 8000 from the original owner that had stored it since new.
it worked flawlessly initially but after some further testing the tone arm moves into position but won't drop on its own (it seems to be released as you can tap it and it will drop onto the album).
i checked the belt and it is a little slack so I have anew one coming. My question is twofold.
1) would the servo belt cause the tone arm to not drop? What are possible other causes?
2) how do you gain better access to change the belt? I've removed the black cover under the tone arm but it still doesn't allow very good access to the belt.
thank you,
Larry
Hi,
You will need to open the Beogram into the service position in order to get to the belt. That means removing the platter, releasing the three suspension springs and removing two small screws under the left side of the deck (so the deck can be lifted).
Much care must be taken in putting the Beogram into the service position as the deck lid can hit the tonearm if you aren't careful. I don't recommend doing it if you haven't gone over the service manual.Here is a post for a Beogram 8002 Repair, the turntable service position is the same on the Beogram 8000.
Once opened up, you will have to guide the position detector out of its mounting slot so you can change the belt.-sonavor
Or it could be that the bulb underneath the control panel (manual << and >>) has moved slightly or is dead or weak.
I think the belt is not at fault here.
EDIT: I should have read better , sorry.
Jacques
Under the counterweight is a teflon sheet.This was introduced to protect the tip of the tonearm (counterweight-) height adjustment screw etc. from wear, particularly during transport.Unfortunately, the adjustment screw makes an indentation in the sheet which, when deep enough, will actually catch, grab and hold thepointy tip of the screw. This will usually cause the tonearm to stick a bit while the lowering solenoid releases it and then suddenly droponto the record.Remove the teflon sheet and readjust the height.
The servo motor belt works best if a little slack.It must not be tight but of course it shouldn't slip either.If too tight, the servo motor will not run freely enough on the low voltages from moving slowly (playing etc.) but onlymove in large chunks (when the offset is large and the correcting voltage very high).The belts found on Ebay seems to be far too tight. I have replaced many, I have a glass jar almost filled to the edge withEbay a.o. belts that was "guaranteed to fit"...If yours is still the original belt - and it isn't slipping - leave it.
Martin
Hi Dave,
Thank you very much. Good news, After an adventure getting the suspension back in place - the hooks dropped out into the bottom (what is supposed to hold these in place)? I had to use a piece of painters tape to keep them where they belong until I could get the hooks back in and re-attached.
I lubricated the pivots and rails put it back together and (to my surprise), it seems to be working fine again! There was one small piece of broken plastic in the bottom, and I have no idea where it came from, but since all seems to be working I'm going to leave well enough alone.
Great responses all!
Thank you,
Martin,
Thank you. I left the original belt alone. Seems fine.
Best Regards,
Larry,
you don't hang around do you? Good to hear it's up and running for now. I hope it lasts. a recap may be necessary in the future (from member 'Dillen') and possibly an upgraded tacho disc (also from 'Dillen').
Dave.
You guys are so good, I don't have to hang around too long to solve my Beo problems!
By the way, what is supposed to keep those W shaped wire pieces under the chassis in place that the suspension hooks grab on to? They were giving me fits after they dropped out of place.
Thanks again,
The W-clips usually stay in place as long as you keep the subchassis standing on the bottom plate and the C-clips are fitted.If you give the C-clips a drop of contact glue or similar glue that sets a little flexible to hold them to the plastic insert, theywon't fall out when you lift the subchassis back up to the leaf springs.That's how I like to do it anyways.
Perfect, I knew there had to be a trick! I had no idea that little piece of wire is what holds the entire
suspension... Simple, yet ingenious (of course)!
larry