ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
looking at a pair of beolab 6000 and wall mountng them.
Bit of an odd question/idea but has any one ever mounted these upsude down ie hanging down?
"You think we can slap some oak on this thing?"
Beovision 7 40 mk 5 ,beovision 6x3, beosound 3000, beogram 3300 , 2 x lc2, 2 x beocom 1401, beocom 6000 x 2, 5 x beo4,
, 4 x beolab 4's, form 2, h2, a2,a1 and a beolab 2 😀😀
Bv7Mk3:Have seen a pic of Beolab 8000 upside down looked cool.
I once did that - it was a hell of a work!
MM
There is a tv - and there is a BV
yeh saw the ones on ebay with the drilled plinths and it kind of made me think could it be done properly with a wall bracket.
reason for asking this odd question is that the rear wall area I need to site them has a radiator above which is a large picture (both similar size). I cant place speakers in the corner of room because of a door on one side and stairs on other (area is effectively a corridor) but rather than a wall in front theres a sofa.
Ok back to the wall. i could mount them normally slightly raised either side of radiator and run all cables along skirting board, but im a bit concerned about possible impact because its a corridor (KIDS!!,!)
With this in mind and having seen the drilled based I then got to thinking why cant I mount them higher up out of harms way, but then then leads to surface mounted boxed cables running up the wall in plain view. Reason for boxed is there is a possible house move on the cards.
Bit more lateral thinking got me to run boxed cables at ceiling level and then mounting them upside down.
Ok to the problems this creates. i may be able to reverse the base of the B&O bracket so logos are the right way, but I wont know until i pick them up this week.
Not sure if there will be any issues with amp cooling/heat if upside down.
finally not sure of impact on sound as woofers would be at top and tweeter at bottom. This may not be a major problem as they are going to be rear surrounds only and whilst I havent seen them the bit above the tweeter (rightway up) looks like a port for the bass.
any thoughts on any of the above?
There are of course the official wall mount brackets (or the ridiculously expensive alternatives from STBrackets - I don't know what the originals cost). If you run the cables down behind the speakers, they won't be that obvious.
Anyway, whatever you do, don't ruin the original stands if you ever plan on taking the speakers down again and selling them. The result will be unsellable unless you get new stands, and that won't be cheap either.
--mika
Sorry if I wasnt clear in original post but the speakers im picking up are coming with official b&o wall brackets, theres no way id go drilling b&o floor stands.
hence why i cant check the bracket until it arrives.
Apparently there is a shortage on the official ones and when the come up they are being snapped up on ebay for around £300
Really not keen on running wires all the way down the wall behind the speaker as i really want that gap and the illusion that they are floating.
Assuming that theres no issue with heat or with sound dispersion then i mau just have to enlist a few friends to hold them up so I can see and hear them in situ.
Why not simply use the 3 bolt holes already in the speakers and mount them without any bases using longer bolts, maybe a flat plate inside the cieling with 3 holes in fitted above the joist, this way no mod is necessary
jason
Jason : Why not simply use the 3 bolt holes already in the speakers and mount them without any bases using longer bolts, maybe a flat plate inside the cieling with 3 holes in fitted above the joist, this way no mod is necessary jason
Posts may of crossed here. No need for me to mod as I will have official brackets. Worst case is that logo is upside down, best case I use longer bolts and turn the bottom part of bracket over.
to start lifting upstairs floor boards and getting plates made up would work but would be an absolute pain morso if they need to come down again due to possible move. It would make it easy for cabling but would leave holes in ceiling Id then have to fix. not sure how strong the ceiling is as its an old house.
Don't know if this will work but lets see if I can upload a photoshop'd image
image.jpg.aspx
I see - but why not just mount them in the usual way?
I you have to run cable covers that long anyway, 'the last mile' won't be a big problem - or?
Millemissen: I see - but why not just mount them in the usual way? I you have to run cable covers that long anyway, 'the last mile' won't be a big problem - or? MM
Drop from ceiling to top of speaker (as per photo) is about a 14". Its not at eye level so the canble boxes are much less noticable.
If i mounted them the right way up I would have 3 options:
1) mount at low level. Not ideal and risk of impact due to location (see earlier post)
2) mount in intended location and run cables up the wall around 4.5ft. canke box is in a higher in a more obvious/visible location
3) mount in intended location and run the cables all the way down. This means losing the space behind speakers which would be taken up with a cable box and i would need to work the cabkes around outside of the wall mount.
Also from a seated position the cabling beneath the speakers would be visible in options 3 & 4
also intended power source is just through the door on the right at high level so its a shorter power run.
interestingly no ones come back and said dont do it because bracket will not hold, amp will overheat or they will sound awful, which to be honest were my initial worries.
guess Ill have to wait until they arrive and then see how the sound both ways and then decide.
Quick update.
There is no need to make any mods to the brakets.
the front ring that holds connects the speaker to the wall support has two screws in the back face. You can effectively remove these turn the ring over and resecure.
this puts the logos the right way up and the speakers can then be wall mounted hanging down.