ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I have been collecting various Beosystem 5000 and 5500 components over the last few years when they would show up for sale with low values. One of my goals this year was to spend some time and get a working 5500 system so I thought now would be a good time.So far I have a Beomaster 5500 recapped and working well. I also have a CD5500 that only required a belt change and a Beogram 5000 that I had to change out the transformer and fix the usual deck lid latch.The Beocord 5500 is on my bench now but it looks like it will need a part or a repair of a part.Here is the restored system so far. It looks nice on my SC60 cabinet and with a pair of RL140 speakers.
UPDATED...
I worked on the Beomaster 5500 first. This is what it looked like first opened up. It was in good shape and worked moderately well but it didn't seem like it sounded as good as I expected it to so I decided to do recap it.
The tuner board tilts up nicely for access so I recapped that one first.
There wasn't anything eventful on this recap. It was just a straightforward desoldering of old parts and soldering in of new parts. The tricky parts were figuring out how to dismantle the Beomaster. To do the rest of the boards I removed them all from the chassis.
Removing the boards also allowed me to clean any dust out of the Beomaster chassis.I didn't remove the Beomaster display board at the very front. It is working fine so I didn't mess with it. I also didn't replace to two big 10,000uF power supply capacitors. I measured them though and they measured just over 11,000uF. On the microcomputer board I replaced two electrolytic capacitors and put in a new Lithium battery. For the audio input board and preamp I used Nichicon Muse Bipolar capacitors for all of the replacements in the signal path. Here are the removed boards after the recap.
After the reinstall of the boards I powered up the BM5500 and checked the cold start idle current. It was a little difficult to get the left and right channels adjusted to 11mV (across the output resistors) per the service manual. I decided that I had better replace the two (L & R) 100 ohm trim pots with some new ones. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of that part of the process but I was able to easily set the left and right idle to 11mV after the trimmer replacements. Here is a picture of the recapped Beomaster ready to be closed up.
The CD 5500 was a simple repair. Its CD tray was acting flaky so it needed a new belt. I had ordered replacement belts from Martin a while back so they were waiting to be used.Here is the CD 5500 opened up.
This picture shows the plastic tab to press to release the big pulley with the tray belt.Once that belt was changed the CD 5500 worked great.
The next system component was the Beogram 5000. I have thought about getting a Beogram 5500 several times but I have plenty of tangential B&O turntables and I liked the looks of this Beogram 5000. I have two of these turntables. One has some broken internals and I got it cheap for parts. The other one was supposed to be a working turntable but was set for European line voltage (240 V). So I needed to rework the power supply wiring to get it to work on my 125V line voltage. The easiest way to do this was to take the transformer out of my parts unit and put it in the good turntable.Here is a picture showing the transformer wiring differences between the 240V and 120V models.
Here is the 120V transformer installed in my good Beogram 5000 turntable.
Now I was able to power up the Beogram 5000.
A speed check with my tachometer passed and I balanced the tonearm for an MMC2 cartridge. Here is the test spin.
That just left the typical Beogram 5000 problem of the lid latch. I re-glued the catch to the lid using some glue specifically for gluing plastic to plastic. It dries in 30 seconds and the latch works perfect now.
The last component is the Beocord 5500. I can't remember how long I've had this unit. I know it has some problems working so I suspected a belt (although it turns out I don't have a new belt for this yet...have to remember to order one from Martin).Here is the BC5500 opened up.
Here is the main board tilted up in service position so I can get to the cassette mechanism.
The main belt looks okay but I'll still order a new one.
Here is the culprit so far. This Beocord motor turns but it can't detect a cassette to engage the heads and rollers. The problem is the switch that enables the play is missing the black plastic contact piece. This picture shows the switch with the missing plastic piece. Unless someone happens to have one of these lying around I will have to steal one from my Beocord 5000 deck (then I'll have to get a replacement switch for that one). These Beocords are for sale all the time though and usually pretty cheap. That is how I got the ones I have.
When I manually engage the switch I can see a cassette play, fast forward and rewind without any problems. So I think this Beocord will be back in service soon.
Rich:Great documentation and work so far! Best of luck finishing. But, dude, you must stack the stackables!
But, dude, you must stack the stackables!
Meanwhile, I opened up my Beocord 5000 for the first time and it is not an option for a parts replacement in the Beocord 5500. Just as well since I want to get the Beocord 5000 functioning too.Here is the cassette mechanism for the Beocord 5000...quite different from the BC5500.
Here is the broken BC5500 switch removed. The other switch pad has a crack in it. Until I can get a proper substitute I can probably fashion a switch pad using some JB Weld epoxy (similar to the repair of the CDX left hinge).
You should have changed both relais in the Beomaster 5500. Both are either oxidated or have some burned contacts. With probably different volume levels as result.
Keep on the good work.
Beobuddy: You should have changed both relais in the Beomaster 5500. Both are either oxidated or have some burned contacts. With probably different volume levels as result. Keep on the good work.
Yes, I saw that and was wondering about them. So far they are not giving me any problems but could over time. Do you have a source and part number for some replacements? I would like to go ahead and get some ready.
Thanks
I went ahead and used some JB Weld epoxy to make a replacement bumper. My fixed tweezers held the switch upside down on a piece of paper to allow the blob of glue to dry with enough material to carve out a bumper shape. It didn't turn out too bad. At least it should be usable. I painted the result black so it won't be so noticeable. Once the paint dries I will try it out in the Beocord.
sonavor:Yes, I saw that and was wondering about them. So far they are not giving me any problems but could over time. Do you have a source and part number for some replacements? I would like to go ahead and get some ready.
I got a relay for my BM 5000 from Martin
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
As always a magnificent thread, admire your work John
Hello I own two complete 5500 systems, comprising turntable, CD and 2 Cassette Decks and the tuner/amp, one system is linked to a pair of PENTA passive speakers and the other linked to RL60.2 redline speakers. I also have a complete 6500 system and 3300 system. I must admit I really do prefer my 5500 systems for some reason, although the sound of the 6500 and 3300 are brilliant there is just something about the 5500 that is special. Hopefully you are able to have a complete 5500 soon.
Best wishes Prof David Flynn
Professor David A Flynn JP LM
Professor David A Flynn JP: Hopefully you are able to have a complete 5500 soon. Best wishes Prof David Flynn
Hopefully you are able to have a complete 5500 soon.
Hi John,
Good work 👍
Neither should pivot
jason
Beocord 5500,One of them is the tape leader sensor.It can tell tape from lead-in.Used for quick reversing of the tape at tape end.
Beomaster 5500,Remove seven screws and you can take the whole bottom plate off. You will then not have to remove theamplifier and preamplifier boards when servicing, but it may still be easier if you need to do a lot of flipping over.The power relay to the amplifier is usually fine. It handles a lot of current and burns off oxidation by itself (which alsoexplains the white/black deposits at the inside of the relay plastic housing - it's not a bad sign!).However, the muting relay (speaker relay) is usually bad. It doesn't handle the same kind of currents and there fore oxidationis not automatically burned off. The typical symptoms are that only one channel plays at low volume while the other is silent, untilyou turn up the volume and suddenly the silent channel breaks through.I always replace the speaker relay (I can supply a correct one if you need) while I leave the power relay as-is.
Martin
Thanks for the information. That helps me out a lot. I was able to get the micro switch re-installed with my homemade bumper. Sure enough, the Beocord plays, rewinds and fast forwards again.
While I had the Beocord opened up I replaced the drawer belt. I had ordered a couple of these belts from Martin a long time ago and finally got around to using one.
I put the Beocord back into normal operation position so I could do some listening tests. The replacement bumper on the micro switch isn't too bad. I don't think many people would notice it (without the red arrows).
I put the Beocord cover back on and connected it up to the 5500 system. The cassette deck is playing great. I still need to test making a recording but I think I am ready to use this system for a while to see what adjustments (if any) I need to still make. I noticed that the little LED power lamp on the Beogram 5000 is not illuminating so I will have to go back and fix that at some point. I would also like to run a few more bench tests with the Beogram and Beocord but for now I am going to spend a few days running the system through its functions. As with the older 6000 and 8000 systems, the integration of all the components make for a nice user experience. Even my wife likes the new system.
If you ever get back inside, it's a good idea to remove the tape drawer cog from the metal bracket , remove the old grease and re grease the screw shaft , I've seen a few where the grease has hardened which puts extra strain on the motor/ belt and slows the door operation.
The 5500 is my favourite of all the stackers, much prefer the brushed front over the mirror.
its a great workhouse that's a real pleasure to use every day
Yes, I have the MCPs for the 5500 and the 5000 systems. They are definitely a cool part of these systems. I am either going to start in on the Beomaster 5000 next or on a Beogram 8000. I have been trying to get to the BG8000 for quite some time so I am leaning towards it.
I bought a second faulty bg8000 to help diagnose a fault I had with mine, I enjoyed the restoration so much I restored both machines, they take more work than most but the rewards are magnificent , I nearly bought a third but couldn't think of an excuse ,
go for it!!
Jason : go for it!! jason
Okay. I dug my Beogram 8000 repair units out of storage and will start a new thread in the Beogram section for that project soon.Today I tested recording on the Beocord 5500 (with the CD5500 as the source). The resulting cassette recording was great. I am becoming more impressed with the ease of use of this 5500 system. There are still a lot of little tricks to learn with the MCP but that is part of the fun.
-sonavor