Beogram CD 3300 lid closes and then jumps up 0,5cm, closes fine again, plays well

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Garten Posted: Sat, Jul 25 2015 5:18 PM

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Hi,

I have a smashing  beogram CD 3300 that I just replaced the lid belt on (thanks Dillen!)

After the change the door closes great, flaush with the panel, but as soon as it has landed, it jumps up half a cm again and then closes down ok again.

Starts playing everything is nice and dandy.

Just can't get that "hiccup" to go away, can't find the reason for it or the cure.

Found this in the archives, same issue: http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/24100/181134.aspx

Anyone encountered this or similar with a 3300/3500/4500 etc?

Is it just that the speed and force of the lid is now so great that it deceleration is so massive it "bounces" ? or has some "motor off" switch become missaligned? can't see anything though.

or is it purely mechanical, the cd is not positioned 100% correctly on the first decent of the lid and thus it "corrects" the cd position on the first decent, and centre cap rests correctly on the second decent?

Sorry for the long post, but this is driving me nuts!

thanks

//g

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jvezina replied on Sun, Jul 26 2015 4:28 PM

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Good morning,

I have a Beogram CD X and it has an adjustment screw (located in the bottom) for the lid height. Check the service manual for the CD 3300 as it may have the same screw.

Good luck,

Jean

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Garten replied on Sun, Jul 26 2015 9:00 PM

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Good evening!

Many thanks for your reply, Yes researching the service manual for CD X indicates this as a possible solution, alas the Cd 3300 lacks this adjustment and I have not found a 3300/3500/4500 service manual online, figure I'll just have to buy one.

the "lid motor" stop signal is when "open lid" button operated latch mechanism is released upon closure of the lid, this trigger the sensor/switch (there are two switches by the eject mechanism, one is for starting the motor to open, the other is "door closed" signal for the laser.

So the "door closed" signal must also be the "kill motor" signal, but its triggered ok, so ut is possibly something mechnalical with the latch mechanism.

I have tried to "cushion" the lid as it comes down, to see if it is actually a "bounce" it does relieve the symptom somewhat, as there is normally small black rubber cushions on the lid and where the lid comes to a rest, and these are now gone.

thanks //g

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Dillen replied on Sun, Jul 26 2015 10:58 PM

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The CD3500 and CD4500 are entirely different from the CD3300 when it comes to lid open/close mech. so their manuals won't
help anything.

Martin

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Garten replied on Mon, Jul 27 2015 4:55 PM

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Many Thanks Martin, you just saved me 25 bucks! will buy just a 3300 manual then.

kind regards

//Gart

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Premiumverum replied on Mon, Jul 27 2015 5:19 PM

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I've had this problem with a cdx2 years back and posted about it on the old forum. Member Ipaul years later, after I already sold the CDX2, mailed me the solution he found.

It was a blue philips electrolytic capacitor associated with the hinge motor that goes bad.  Replace it and you should be fine!

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Premiumverum replied on Mon, Jul 27 2015 5:21 PM

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Checked the service manual: its the 68uF cap on the lid motor PCB.

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Garten replied on Mon, Jul 27 2015 6:26 PM

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Thats amazing, many thanks for looking into this!!

Is it from the CDX service manual or the 3300 service manual?

I Can find the cap on the block diagram for the 3300, see below, but not on the PCB diagram or indeed in reality, Perhaps its on the backside of the PCB , as the upside (when you open the back panel) has no traces.

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Premiumverum replied on Tue, Jul 28 2015 8:11 AM

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It's the cap (black and white block) between pin 5 of p73 and pin 2 of p72 on the PCB diagram. Looks like it is soldered to the connectors, probably on the underside as you say! Do let us know if replacing it solves your problem.

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Garten replied on Tue, Jul 28 2015 3:44 PM

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Found it! it was just like said blue philips 68uF, Ordered it and a few other caps for a NAD today, so opefully i will get the caps and sort it by saturday,, will report back with pics! many thanks.

I don't have any instruments capable of capacitance measurment so I can't tell you if its bad right now,  it looks ok though.

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Garten replied on Tue, Jul 28 2015 3:44 PM

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Found it! it was just like said blue philips 68uF, Ordered it and a few other caps for a NAD today, so opefully i will get the caps and sort it by saturday,, will report back with pics! many thanks.

I don't have any instruments capable of capacitance measurment so I can't tell you if its bad right now,  it looks ok though.

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Garten replied on Sat, Aug 1 2015 12:47 PM

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Hi all,

Here we have the culprit, this blue cap was sure the cause of the lid issue, removed and replaced with slightly bigger 63v 68uF cap but it fit, and the lid is now like spanking new!

Many thanks for this tip! Would never have guessed. I bow before this great forum and its members!

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chartz replied on Sat, Aug 1 2015 8:46 PM

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Good to know, thanks a lot!

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Premiumverum replied on Sun, Aug 2 2015 8:56 AM

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I am glad it worked, and great that you posted some pics. Enjoy the CD3300!

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GEORGzer replied on Sun, Feb 5 2017 10:57 AM

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Hello,

I have the same problem with my Beogram CD 3300. I replaced the lid-belt yesterday, because it got stuck while opening up. Now this works great again, but my Beogram CD 3300 has the "hiccup" as well.

I already extracted the lid motor PCB and located the faulty cap.

I'm no technical expert so I'm not sure which replacement cap is the right one.

I have a Conrad Megastore nearby and I found this one:

http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/445387/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Electrolytic-capacitor-Radial-lead-5-mm-68-F-63-V-20--x-H-10-mm-x-12-mm-Yageo-SE063M0068B5S-1012-1-pcs

It says 68 µF as well and dimensions seem about right (same length, a little bit more in diameter).
Can I use it?

Thank You guys!

Georg 

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Dillen replied on Sun, Feb 5 2017 2:18 PM

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Yes, you can use it, but the voltage rating is a bit high.
25V would be better.
Something like this:

http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/1482535/Electrolytic-capacitor-Radial-lead-5-mm-68-F-25-V-20--8-mm-Panasonic-EEA-GA1E680B-1-pcs?ref=list

And remember to get the polarity right when replacing it.

Martin

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GEORGzer replied on Sun, Feb 5 2017 11:13 PM

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Hello Martin,

thank you very much. I was so focused on the right farad that I completely overlooked the voltage.

So I suppose the cap has to be 16 Volts or more, but the closer to the 16V the better.
I now ordered the original Philips cap on eBay: 68µF 16V RM2.5 

Georg 

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GEORGzer replied on Wed, Feb 8 2017 2:27 PM

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Today, I replaced the faulty cap with one of those.

http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/1281322/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Electrolytic-capacitor-Radial-lead-25-mm-68-F-16-V-20--x-H-63-mm-x-11-mm-Wuerth-Elektronik-860240373003-1-pcs

Now my lid opens and closes just like it's supposed to

Had a little bit of a crises because the soldering point of the one single-cable connector came off the board, but I rewired the circuit and now it works again. 

Sorry for the bad photos, but I didn't want to take the risk of disconnecting everything again

Thank you Martin for your help!

Georg

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ccsimonw replied on Sun, Mar 8 2020 8:19 AM

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Hi, I am asking for a help! My CD3300 has a broken gear for the lid open, does anyone know how to remove the gear out as the hinge of the lid is on it’s way, cannot take it out ! Many thanks 🙏