ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
To day I got to the Beomaster 5000 Tuner, the Beolab 5000 you can read about here.
Here the pic before opening, big for Jacques
Here the back
The top off, and inside the diagram
Big surprise, clean as a whistle
Bottom a little corrosion, probably because it has been standing on the BL 5000 when stored
Cover off, CLEAN CLEAN
Its all clean
Thats just beautiful, time to celebrate
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I now got serious, connected the original rabbit ear antenna from Richard, connected to my variac, turnedup slowly to 110V, power light on, tuned in a station, stereo light on, the stereo light very bright, so I dimmed it with a piece of paper, the power light is not as bright, but new lamps from Martin will probably fix that
There are failures though, couple of caps showing signs of giving up, and this big cap has a rounded top.
A new bridge rectifier has been build in, B&O would never place it like that. and there are signs of the old one. The new one is 6 A 400V
I then packed it away, and went on with the front and sliders, here dirty
Here cleaned in a little soapy water
But I will have to find a place to repair the texts on the front, just too bad in many places, I want to engrave it all, all of it and black, just cleaning these with ISP takes off the print.
That will be tomorrows work, finding an engraver, what a nice day it was.
Great! You caught a nice break there Søren. That tuner should be a breeze compared to the amplifier. Now that you know the scope of the work you will be able to plan out all of the repair work. It's going to be hard for us to wait for the parts to arrive from Denmark though.John
Thanks for the pictures!
The corrosion around and underneath the rubber feet is caused by the rubber itself. It changes properties and lets some corrosive substance (perhaps just moist?) leak out.
My own Beolab and Master had the same rust at their feet, but nowhere else.
Jacques
Maybe the corrosion is the result of dissimilar metals if the mounting screw for the feet is a different metal type than the chassis.
sonavor: Maybe the corrosion is the result of dissimilar metals if the mounting screw for the feet is a different metal type than the chassis.
It is definitely the rubber.
chartz: sonavor: Maybe the corrosion is the result of dissimilar metals if the mounting screw for the feet is a different metal type than the chassis. It is definitely the rubber.
I agree on that, thinking about it I have this on several items, but not as much as here.
@ Jacques: You once mentioned that the font on the BL/BM is Helvetica, I have now tried to find out the different sizes (point) comparing on screen with the prints on the fronts, it looks ok (screen at 100%) but printing it out on paper they all comes out bigger, after adjustment the paper print comes out nearly in the correct sizes, but never perfect, the only one I can accept is the 6 point BY APPOINTMENT TO THE ROYAL DANISH COURT. All the others is just missing a little. I wanted to give instructions to the engraver. I am nervous about the engraver destroying the parts or it comes out looking wrong. I think I will find a piece of aluminum and let them run tests first.
It will definitely be worth paying a little extra for some test runs before the final work on the real metal plate. You have plenty of time before you get all of the parts so take your time on getting the panels to look right. You may have to test out more than one engraving shop. Also check with Martin and Frede to see if they have had the panel graphics repainted.
John
Just went to the engraver shop here around the corner, according to the seller they should be able to do it, also test runs before final work is possible, they also makes pins for whatever, I am here thinking about speaker badges. They made for me some years ago control panels for a machine, but that was big things and simple, nothing very fine and accurate as this. I have a meeting with the engraver tomorrow, lets see where it goes and to which cost. I will be laser engraved. I am more confident doing it here near my home, as I can go there and check anytime. Will ask the engraver if it is possible for me to be there when they do the work.
Good. I also know that Frede has the panels re-anodized before etching.
Hi Søren.
Here are some pictures of the beomster 5000 i have donated to you.
Henrik
Henrik I am just speechless and I will be forever in your debt, I can arrange for my son to pick it up in October, but prefer to wait until May/June next year and do it myself, So get ready for a big Hug and a good dinner maybe together with Martin whom I also owe some gratitude. Just thank you is not enough for a thing like this, we have to meet and have a long talk.
Again Thank You Henrik
Beoworld at it's best!
//Bo.A long list...
I came home from work (2 hours) full of energies, was thinking about doing something on the house, but that is not funny it is only work. So I decided to do the wood on the BM 5000 (1 wooden board 25 by 47 Cm)
Like it came
Back side, I want to keep the original envelope, undamaged with the schematics within, the wood around it will get a layer of linseed oil.
Get yourself a sanding pad and some few sheets of sanding paper 100 grain
I only put one end into the sanding pad, and hold it steady with a finger.
I stert cleaning with this, in the hope that the promised beauty will occur. All nails on the surface will disappear
using a lint free (not sure about that) cleaning paper
Drench it with Acetone
Cleaned first time
Second time, the first time just loosened old wax and lacquer and what else cleaning house assistants could think of applying
First time over with 100 grain and cleaned off with a brush (Danish brush) dont forget the edges, I will only show the main surface
I then went on with this one
you can also go on with 220 grain sanding paper, but it clogs up and you will have to use a lot, these pads never clogs up and you can use them more or less forever. just bang them against the table and all the sawdust comes out.
Here half done with the 3M pad
All done with the 3M pad and all cleaned again with acetone, I can now see the places where I will have to work more
Small piece of 100 grain, and with only thumb press on the damaged areas, grind until the marks disappear, or until you get afraid of going through the veneer, I normally grind until they are nearly gone
The worst marks nearly out
One time more with the 3M pad and cleaned with acetone, there is still one mark I want to work on
More 100 grain and more 3M pad, but still visible
I now go with a 60 micron (about 320 grain) 3M psa backed micro finidhing sheet, you can use sanding paper, but it will clog up very fast, this also clogs up, but sanding the whole piece one time and then cleaning the 3M sheet, and you are ready to go again, sand until you get the same color all over.
Cleaned with acetone, still some visible marks but I was afraid of getting through the veneer. These marks are penetrated colored) into the wood
After cleaning again with acetone, a good amount of boiled Linseed oil is poured onto the surface
Spread it evenly with a lint free rag ( I use a piece of an old cotton Tshirt) and let it soak
Let it soak for about 30 min. Now is a good time to relax and enjoy a good done job while waiting for the soaking to finish, soak yourself a little
After half an hour I destroy a T shirt and Voila, you have a lint free rag
Dry off the excess oil and it look like this, leave it to dry for 12-24 hours, do this outside it stinks
Thanks for that wood restoration lesson Søren. I always get a lot out of them. Really nice detail on the pictures too.John
Good job!
When I did my Ditton 66 speakers, I found out that it is actually possible to use an iron and water to lift the wood fibers, thus requiring almost no sanding. This technique is well-documented on the Internet. There were deep scratches that now are invisible.
We are not done yet (I have nothing else to do) boring ? now we get into the fine finishing works, consider, we are restoring a 50 year old piece of wood.
It will not be perfect, if I wanted that I would go to carpenter and ask him to make a new one. For me those small dents and scratches let me fantasize a little about what happened during 50 years, I am 15 years older, and look at me, not even an extended Botox cure will help.
After the first oil soaking, and 24 hours drying it looks like this
I sanded it lightly with the maroon 3M pad, and then soaked it again, even the back and let dry for 24 hours again
And here we are this morning
Here polished with an old piece of Tshirt, left side has discoloration, it may gotten a lot of sun there, or maybe some water damage, I dont like it
I was thinking about starting over again, but then decided to try with Old English, it is available for light and dark woods, I tried first with a layer of the light version, didnt help.
I then went on with the dark version, just applying where I wanted the wood darker
I did that very carefully to begin with, first time just moistened the area and wiped off nearly immediately, no change what so ever, I then went on applying more and left it longer (5-10 min) and after 5 times I got where I wanted, I took 5 pics like this, and this is the worst one,
One more, its only visible if you know what to look for. from 1 meter away I cant see it.
Just to show the difference
Before
After
Hi Søren,
I am late to the party not having seen your Beomaster 5000 tread.
The corrosion you mentioned is due to the rubber feet. (Jacques is right.)
Delighted to see that you have found my Old English products in Mexico. Their scratch remover really works, as you undoubtedly know, and their regular polish (formally known as “Lemon Oil” is a superb cleaner….. makes the wood look great for weeks.
Keep up the superb work!
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
Did the caps in this one last week, I am now waiting for transistors and some caps from Mouser, the tracker says "on van out for delivery"
I am getting the itch for assembling, pics to come
Looking forward to them! Luckily I have no noisy transistors in my set. What are you replacing and why?
As Fred recommended I change all the black drop Fairchild transistors, they tend to fail intermittently, Except for the BC 113 they are all low noise, so I change them with BC 550 and BC 560
Nearly no cleaning done, just a little dusting, this BM is the cleanest I ever received
Found a cap with the same diameter, just had to extend the lead from the resistor a bit
The Beomaster.
One important point.
Replace the rectifier bridge - perhaps you already did that?
Also the trimmers - specially the power supply trimmer should be replaced.
(I received the panels to day - thank you)
/Frede
The Beomaster
One more thing.
What is used in Mexico for the fm de emphasis - 50u or 75us ?
US 75us - EU 50uS (this is the default in Beomaster 5000)
If you need to change I can help you.
We have the same system as in the US, and my BM is an US model, I newer knew there was a difference, and read a little about it. How can I check this.
As for the big trimmers, I have been searching high and low for the big ones, specially for the BL where a lot of them are present with or without shaft
Here the rectifier, how is the original fastened, this one looks like it has been changed, checked OK
The rectifier has been replaced. It will be fine.
Martin
Dillen: The rectifier has been replaced. It will be fine. Martin
Right Martin, but I am just curious about how it was mounted originally, the original is a BC30/250, and this one is a 6A400V
Desoldered the trimmer for the 20V supply, measures OK, I may get some problems with the BL, it has 8 of these sitting directly under the switch assembly, the ones I can get from Piher are as little higher than the originals. Will check further tomorrow