ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Great, those pics are very clear, thanks. Here's what I did, This is what you meant by soldering the negative pin to the metal base, right?
I detached the metal ring from the old 2200uf cap with needle-nose pliers and place it around the new one, just bending the positive pin towards centre and 'curling' the negative pin around the metal ring. I held it in place with a blob of blu-tak and soldered the pin. Then I place the positive pin in the centre hole and the 3 other negative pins just lined up through the outer holes. Again, blu-tak held the cap down while I soldered the trace side. Here are a few pics.
And with the pin soldered on. (sorry, images a bit small.)
Here is 2200uf / 50v soldered into place;
Trace side, C27 soldered into place.
So, that's everything done. Just one thing, in Martin's kit there is a 2,2uf spare. There's a note '2,2uf - Mount Radial or Axial type according to the original. but I have this spare 2,2uf radial now. I've gone over the chart and everything seems to be in place. Anyway, what would you say is the next step?
Here are two pics of the board, from both sides;
Thanks
and the trace side;
If you have the new tachodisk in place and all of the soldering done then it sounds like you are at the point to test the electronics (see the second to last posting on this page of my Beogram 8000 project). If everything is good you should get the Standby dot in the display when you plug the turntable in. If you do, then you can test functionality with the turntable control keypad. If you don't get the Standby dot, unplug the turntable and recheck all of the connectors. If that doesn't fix the problem, check the main DC voltages from the power supply. In the case of no voltage out of the power supply, check the fuses (including the one in the transformer case).Hopefully you will have the Standby mode dot. In that case, the next step is to run through the mechanical adjustments per the service manual. They are covered on my thread starting here.
I plugged it in and disappointingly though not entirely surprisingly there seems to be a fault. The display flashes 33.33 intermittently and then goes completely blank, it switches to 45;00 when I hit the 45 button. the platter spins automatically. There seems to be no life from the tonearm at all. I guess I'll have to open it up again...urghh.
As you see in my thread I don't put it back together until I know it is functioning correctly. It takes too long to put it all together and take it all apart again. Let's see what you currently have.
1. Plug in Beogram - Does the red Standby dot display?2. Press the Turn button - Does the platter turn?3. If the platter turns in Step 2, Press the 45 button - Does 45.00 display and does the platter spin at 45 RPM?4. If the platter turns in Step 2, Press the 33 button - Does 33.33 display and does the platter spin at 33.33 RPM?5. What happens when you press Play? Does the platter turn?If the answer to Step 2 and Step 5 are No, then you will need to start probing some signals for voltage levels to diagnose where the problem is.
Yeah, I knew in my gut I shouldn't have put it all together. Strange, I've just plugged it in again and it's behaving better.
1. Red standby dot displays
2. Turn does not function.
3. When 45 is pressed it displays 45.00
4. When 33 is pressed it displays 33.33
5. when I press play, the platter turns and the tonearm moves a cm and the light comes on, then the display goes completely blank.
Actually, the machine is not behaving so differently than when it arrived. Although, the + - buttons work (they didn't before)
As I mentioned earlier, Tokyo does run at 50Hz and this machine is 60Hz, also Tokyo is 100v and the machine is 120V.
I am not using any transformer at the moment.
Thanks.
On plugging it in once more, the tonearm moved all the way over, but it won't move back now and stop won't function. The only way to halt it is to pull the plug but then the tonearm is stuck there. There's a slight humming sound as well.
etype76: Yeah, I knew in my gut I shouldn't have put it all together. Strange, I've just plugged it in again and it's behaving better. 1. Red standby dot displays 2. Turn does not function. 3. When 45 is pressed it displays 45.00 4. When 33 is pressed it displays 33.33 5. when I press play, the platter turns and the tonearm moves a cm and the light comes on, then the display goes completely blank. Actually, the machine is not behaving so differently than when it arrived. Although, the + - buttons work (they didn't before) As I mentioned earlier, Tokyo does run at 50Hz and this machine is 60Hz, also Tokyo is 100v and the machine is 120V. I am not using any transformer at the moment. Thanks.
The Beogram doesn't have any mechanical functionality that depends on the line frequency so the 50 Hz shouldn't matter. The AC voltage is converted to DC for operating the turntable circuitry. The low voltage could be an issue but you would have to measure the power supply output voltages you have to know for sure. Check the Manual << < and >> adjustment procedure on this page. I'm not saying that is the source of your problems but those two sensors in there do affect the way the tonearm moves. There is one lamp and two light sensors in that assembly (located on the control panel board).
etype76: On plugging it in once more, the tonearm moved all the way over, but it won't move back now and stop won't function. The only way to halt it is to pull the plug but then the tonearm is stuck there. There's a slight humming sound as well.
I actually have Beogram 8002 waiting for me to work on that has the same problem with travelling to the end and not returning. Unfortunately I won't be able to get to that turntable project for at least a month.
Yes, you're right, the hum is the motor trying to push the tonearm forward beyond the spindle. Plugged in again today and it hasn't gone back to its rest. A transformer bringing it to 100v made no difference either. I bought a digital multimeter, have never used one before but I guess I'll need it to start trouble shooting. I need a break from it today, maybe I'll find some time tomorrow to get it back into the service position. I really want to get this thing up and working in the long run, cosmetically, it's beautiful.
Oh, I found these in the chassis, do you know where they go? I think the rubber grommets go on the end of the shaft?
Here is what the end of the main rail looks like on one of my Beogram 8000 turntables.
The main shaft on mine looks like this: somewhat different.
Ok, some good news and some bad. I put the machine back into the service position. I wanted to check that the tonearm was sitting correctly on the threaded spindle etc. It seemed to be, but disturbing it once more I broke a small piece of plastic off the front part of the tonearm that rests on the forward rail. I don't think it will terribly impede it as there's enough plastic left to still guide the arm. I have the piece, not sure if it can be 'glued' back on.
I did that the wrong way round, I should have simply checked all connectors first, because a look behind the PCB showed that the control panel ribbon cable was in a right mess. It's rather fiddly to get back in, I thought I had lined them up but the black wire was out and the red / orange wires were probably in the same socket. Gently straightening them with tweezers and eyeing them in with a light secured them this time. All control panel functions are now operational, Turn included. Though the tonearm still wants to travel further than possible. Difference this time being, when I hit Stop it goes back to its rest. << >> also function.
Here's a pic of the ribbon cable mess. CHECK all the pins are in the proper socket and in securely.
etype76: The main shaft on mine looks like this: somewhat different.
It appears some of the rubber boot is torn off and is missing. I think Martin once mentioned that the rubber cushioning was added for the US market to reduce vibration caused by the 60 Hz line voltage. You will just need to add material to make sure the rail can be securely mounted and handle the tonearm assembly moving back and forth.
etype76: Ok, some good news and some bad. I put the machine back into the service position. I wanted to check that the tonearm was sitting correctly on the threaded spindle etc. It seemed to be, but disturbing it once more I broke a small piece of plastic off the front part of the tonearm that rests on the forward rail. I don't think it will terribly impede it as there's enough plastic left to still guide the arm. I have the piece, not sure if it can be 'glued' back on. I did that the wrong way round, I should have simply checked all connectors first, because a look behind the PCB showed that the control panel ribbon cable was in a right mess. It's rather fiddly to get back in, I thought I had lined them up but the black wire was out and the red / orange wires were probably in the same socket. Gently straightening them with tweezers and eyeing them in with a light secured them this time. All control panel functions are now operational, Turn included. Though the tonearm still wants to travel further than possible. Difference this time being, when I hit Stop it goes back to its rest. << >> also function. Here's a pic of the ribbon cable mess. CHECK all the pins are in the proper socket and in securely.
Have you checked the voltage levels on the photo resistors in the control panel yet?
When you hit play, then use the << >> buttons, does the tonearm stop? While it is stopped do the platter speed selection buttons work correctly?
I haven't checked the voltage on the control panel photo resistors mainly because I'm not sure how...yet! I'll check out your 8000 project for more guidance:
When I press Play and then either <<>> the tonearm stops and the platter speed selection buttons indicate 33.33 or 45.00
Also, I now realize that the tonearm assembly came up too easily because the rear right plastic 'hook' was also partly broken. so now the tonearm is held firmly onto the rails with just one intact hook, the rear left one. Has anybody ever repaired a piece of broken plastic on the tonearm? I was thinking a thin small piece of plastic tubing glued into the recess of the plastic 'C' and feed the rail through it might work.
etype76: Also, I now realize that the tonearm assembly came up too easily because the rear right plastic 'hook' was also partly broken. so now the tonearm is held firmly onto the rails with just one intact hook, the rear left one. Has anybody ever repaired a piece of broken plastic on the tonearm? I was thinking a thin small piece of plastic tubing glued into the recess of the plastic 'C' and feed the rail through it might work. Thanks
Can you post some pictures of the broken part?
Here is the broken plastic piece from the front rail guide, I tried to glue it back without much luck. The other broken piece I suspect happened some time ago and not through shipping as I haven't found and broken pieces in the chassis. The tonearm sits on the rail quite comfortably but I just worried that it will be too susceptible to vibration or being disturbed.
Try a product called gorilla glue. Its amazing!
and the broken "C" rail guide
And the rear right rail guide, you can see the broken bit angled slightly against the rail
(sorry if my images are upside down, I don't know what's causing that in my Safari.)
Seriously gorilla glue will stick and hold that. I tried all kinds of glue on that plastic and none would work... except gorilla glue.
Thanks Lee, I'll look out for it. did you have a technique for glueing it back? I mean, with the arm assembly in position or pointing upwards?
etype76: And the rear right rail guide, you can see the broken bit angled slightly against the rail (sorry if my images are upside down, I don't know what's causing that in my Safari.)
In front of me I have a leftover baseboard from a Beogram 6002. I have no idea if any parts from it fits within a Beogram 8000 but if you or anyone else can confirm that this is the case - and if I still have the right parts - I would like to donate them to you.
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http://tinyurl.com/qj9cjsf
Thank you for your kind offer! I know the 6002 looks similar but that baseplate seems to be quite different, I don't think I could make use of any of those parts. What happened to that poor machine? ;)
etype76: Thank you for your kind offer! I know the 6002 looks similar but that baseplate seems to be quite different, I don't think I could make use of any of those parts. What happened to that poor machine? ;)
I think the same as you, not much is in common between 8000 and 6002 but I wasn't sure.
This turntable lived its life, along with another similar, in a record shop in a small town in central Sweden. I came across both for a lot of years ago and made one of two. Since then, a lot of parts were left. Some have been spent over the years and now remains only a few pieces.
Stepping back, I could ask myself what it is I really want from this machine; basically, a fully functioning 8000 that looks stunning. My work on it has got it closer but I can see now I am likely to damage it if I keep opening it up (don't have space or workbench to leave it all out all the time.) and pressing on the PCB and other parts. So, today, I boxed it up (properly) and have sent it to someone who knows what they're doing B&O-wise to bring it up to scratch.
there was a moment when I felt like buying a parts machine or one fully restored, but what a waste if I have this one already. At least I won't be taking yet another Beogram out of action. The restoration somewhat beat me, although not in the area I thought, I figured replacing the caps would be the challenge but it was actually the set up and broken tonearm plastic. Will keep you posted on its progress
thanks for all the great advice!
Good choice. The repairs on these turntables often look simple but they really do get involved. There is much more than just changing out capacitors. You have to be ready for all types of problems. Still, you learned a lot about the turntable and I am sure the person you sent the Beogram to for repair will restore it to "like new" condition. You won't be disappointed in the investment once you get it back.
Hi all, an update on the Beogram. The broken parts of the tonearm have now been fixed by Rudy using 3D printing! It looks like they'll do the job perfectly. A couple of other issues have also been sorted out, including a large blob of solder which was creating a short...that could've been me Anyway, you can follow the links if you want to find out more...
http://beolover.blogspot.jp/2015/11/beogram-8000-adjusting-horizontal-parallelism-of-tonearm.html
http://beolover.blogspot.jp/2015/11/beogram-8000-repair-of-broken-off-tonearm-carriage-tab.html
http://beolover.blogspot.jp/2015/11/beogram-8000-repair-of-broken-off-tab-from-tonearm-carriage.html
I got the Beogram 8000 back from Rudy. Everything is working and in perfect order! Gladly, the mmc20CL cartridge also seems to be faultless. He also had a Beomaster 6000 that was looking for a new home with terminal remote. So, this is it all set up.
Very nice!I would say your Beogram has been on quite a journey.
-sonavor