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Beolab 5000 renovation

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Christian Christensen
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Christian Christensen Posted: Tue, Feb 2 2016 9:39 PM

Sooooooo I finally got myself a Beolab 5000 , and it is perfect visual shape, yeeeah

Begun renovation, could see that atleast half of the caps were bulging, so I took the decision of total recap, to begin with.
Endless work...sooooo many caps in it.

Have decided to order new windows from Dillen, to start with.

Anyone that have tips for this renovation ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Søren Mexico
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Check my thread, dont forget to change the black drop TRs ( there are 2 black drops in the cooling elements, open the slide poties for cleaning-

And if you have a good idea on how to clean the switches please tell, the switches are the biggest PIB in this amp.

Shortly Sonavor will start on a BL 5000 so stay tuned

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Christian Christensen
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Thanks Søren

intersting, why opening the plasticcpas over the output 2N3055 ?
Why is cleaning there important ? 

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Søren Mexico
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Wrong written from me, there are 2 BLACK DROP TRs in the cooling elements, they need changing.

Open up the slide potentiometers for cleaning.

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Christian Christensen
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Dont understand what you mean by black drop

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Christian Christensen
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Stockholm
Posts 512
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Dont understand what you mean by black drop

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Christian Christensen
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these guys  ?


?

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Søren Mexico
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here

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

sonavor
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This is from a Beomaster 5000 (not a Beolab) but here is another photo of the "black drop" transistors Søren is referring to.

chartz
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chartz replied on Wed, Feb 3 2016 3:13 PM

About the switches, well not all of them seem affected. I've got one of the last produced and the switches are fine. So are the caps by the way.

Jacques

sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Feb 3 2016 3:42 PM

Jacques, what is the serial number and series on yours?

John

chartz
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chartz replied on Wed, Feb 3 2016 4:02 PM

Beolab 5000 type 5303, serie 08, serial number 46619.

Jacques

sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Feb 3 2016 4:08 PM

What about yours Christian? What is the type, series and serial number?

The one Søren just restored was a type 5305, series 80, sn88262. One of the latest Beolabs according to Frede. It would be interesting to compare the differences. Is there a way to tell from the numbers what year is was made?

John

Christian Christensen
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5303 no 65500

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Søren Mexico
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I see some changed caps in the pic, did you change them Christian or did it come that way

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Christian Christensen
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Image was half way through recapp.
I have used my choices of caps. not axiell caps but radiels because thats what I had at home.

The 470 uF have  I increased to 1000 uF as they are pure smoothings.
The only reason they were choosen 470 at the time was limitation of size.

There are a few caps here and there that I have increased value due to  electronic design. 

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Christian Christensen
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And have made my decision not to do as deep renovations you did Sören.
my BL5000 is in excellent shape.
I am awaiting some more caps and after that I will slow start it with 30% on the variac and measure idle current. If that goes well it is ready

I am not so sure that transistors needs to be replaced, if they work the work.
IIf I take decision to replace the 6002  I will use equalient BC549 and 559 as they are low noise transistors.
I have checked out the spec and they should go well 

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Søren Mexico
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In after thought I would go for radials caps instead of the standing axials easier to get equivalent sizes, as for the black drop TRs Frede recommended me to change them with BC 550/560C but BC549/559 are indeed very close. Frede has found out that these TRs gives intermittent failures (distortion) at times.

Compared to mine yours look very clean, how are the fronts ?

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Thu, Feb 4 2016 4:52 PM

Christian Christensen:

The 470 uF have  I increased to 1000 uF as they are pure smoothings.
The only reason they were choosen 470 at the time was limitation of size.

May I ask, on what do you base that statement?

And you are not using WD40 anywhere in a B&O - are you ?

Martin

Christian Christensen
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Yes you may dear Dillen.

It is obvious that it is very tight in the Beloab. Smile
I cant see  how a 1000 uF would fit inside there.
Even though the stabilizing circuits , dont you think they would have crammed in a 1000 uF if it would be possible ? Smile

WD 40 ?Big Smile ohh no, The reason it is on my kitcchen table is that before I got to the BL5000 I was dealing with a tricky mechanical problem inside of a Pioneer turntable from the 70ths  ;) 

Christian 

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Fri, Feb 5 2016 3:24 PM

Christian Christensen:

Yes you may dear Dillen.

It is obvious that it is very tight in the Beloab. Smile
I cant see  how a 1000 uF would fit inside there.

So if you stick to that theory and method of restoration, you will "upgrade" all caps to the maximum possible value you can
physically fit, safely assuming that's what B&O did?

The engineers at B&O wouldn't design something to work best with 1000uF and then accept to only fit
400uF because "There wasn't room for more".
Not anywhere.  - Let alone in a top-range amplifier like this.

WD40 not in a B&O but in a Pioneer, that makes sense...

:-)

Martin

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Fri, Feb 5 2016 3:52 PM

The original 400uF was already well dimensioned - as the far majority of components in there are.
That's also why these beasts work well and live long.

It's your restoration and you can mount what makes you feel happy, but don't blindly up capacitor values in the
name of improvement and do keep in mind, that something happens to f.e. the rush-in current when you up the
filter capacitor (- and particularly if you fit a low-ESR type capacitor, which seems to be an often misunderstood method of "upgrading").
The increased load and stress on the rectifier diodes, the voltage regulators and the surge-limiting resistors may
or may not result in problems sooner or later. I recommend you don't just up capacitors without a good reason.

Martin

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Fri, Feb 5 2016 3:54 PM

- And if you replace the rectifier diodes with Schottky types, I will be writing again! :-)

Martin

Christian Christensen
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Not that I had any idea of replacing the rectifier....Hmm is is selen recitifer in it ? Erm..

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Christian Christensen
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Ahhhh now I understand what you were trying to say ;), got confused for a bit. :)

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

Christian Christensen
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This thread will go in pause for  a week or two.
Have so many other units for other people that come in for repair.
It started with showing my own B&O repair/refurb on a vintage hifi  forum.

Since I started this hobby 3 years ago I have had about 20-30  repairs of other brands. :)
Nikko, Sansui, Technics, Tandberg aso. I have very little time for my own beloved B&O stuff nowdays....  Wink

My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.

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