ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I just ordered two of these. Let's see if they will fit.
In the meantime I can desolder the old ones.
BeoSound 9000 MK3, BeoLab 8000, BeoLab 6000, BeoLab 3500, LCS9000, BeoLab 11, BeoLab 7.2, BeoLab 7.1, Beolab 4 PC, BeoCenter 2300, BeoSound Century, BeoSound 8, Beosound 2, BeoVision 7-40 MK2 , BeoVision 7-32 MK3, BeoVision 6-22, BeoVision 4-42, BeoMedia 1, BeoCom 4, BeoLink 1000, BeoLink 5, BeoLink 4 & BeoTime
Got the batteries yesterday and changed one today. I can confirm that they are excactly the same size B&O used 20 or more years ago. Only the manufacturer is different. Original = Renata, new = Varta
Now one of the two LC1 is working 100% again.
Will try the other later.
Just received these in the post - sold as 'for parts or not working' on eBay.
The left one had lots of battery corrosion (leaking batteries included in the sale - strange when it adds to the weight hence the postage costs extra!), but I did a quick clean, stuck some fresh AAAs in and it partially functions. The display is 'fully lit', so that clearly needs a fix; and neither the 'Yellow' nor 'Radio' buttons work - a strange mix of faults! I've got lots of spare bits so I'm pretty confident that I'll get it up and running fully.
The right one is of course the elusive 'V.AUX' version - that's what attracted me to bid. The good news is that it works perfectly (once I'd replaced the dead batteries).
So a little cleaning/repairing project for the weekend …
BeoIce: Got the batteries yesterday and changed one today. I can confirm that they are excactly the same size B&O used 20 or more years ago. Only the manufacturer is different. Original = Renata, new = Varta Now one of the two LC1 is working 100% again. Will try the other later.
Forgot to say that the second LC1 is working 100% after battery change too.
Just fixed a Beo4 by fitting a new dome foil - good to have a nice positive feel to the buttons now!
I was kinda able to repair my BeoTime alarm clock (which had gone silent)!
The service manual is on Beoworld's manuals section. You will need it, as disassembly is not trivial. It's also the worst part as tha parts are small, fiddly and even the manual's instructions are not always very clear on how you'll need to push/pull/slide things around.
Once I got the main assembly out from the case, the fault was clear: a very thin speaker cable that runs thrue the spring-loaded alarm on/off -thingy, had broken itself on the part where it flexes. The speaker is located at the end of the sliding part.
The original cable is only 1mm in diameter shielded wire. It goes from the Audio+ and Audio- points on the main PCB to the speaker at the end of the unit. The small surface-mount SW1 on the top of the PCB is for detecting if the alarm button is pressed in. It might do with a small spray of contact cleaner, while you are there.
I couldn't find a good replacement, so I just jammed a two-wire solution to the place of the old cable. It kinda fits (I'll get back to this later...), and I just wanted to try if this would work. This is the sliding part that goes inside a square tunnel, so the yellow wire should stay in place, even if it's not all the way held by the small clips at the center.
This is how the cable goes inside the unit. The bent is where the cable gets stressed everytime the alarm on/off button is slided. In the picture above the buttons is pressed in (ie. alarm off position).
End results; the alarm sound does work again! However, as the cable is just a bit too thick, the alarm on/off button does not slide as well as it should, it needs a bit of a pull to come out completely. Even with this little problem, I really like to have the BeoTime waking me up again If I can find a better cable, I might get there again and try it again.
Regarding the disassembly; the manual states that one should pull off the "contact folio" (small flex-PCB with the buttons on the "joystick") and replace it. I don't really see why, as I was able to carefully pull it out without damage and fit it back. And the buttons still work just fine.
^ A great write up thanks Lausvi - I've bookmarked it for when mine goes wrong!
Capasitors DO get old. Here is my proof. BM1900-2 with one quiet channel on radio, reason C301.
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Hi everyone
I have a couple of these LC's laying around in a box and will give a try
I post here because I see them on the bay and they look like the correct size...
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Lithium-Battery-CR2430-VARTA-Coin-Cell-3V-Soldering-Vertically-with-Solder-Lugs/202809167044?hash=item2f385e4cc4:g:U5MAAOSwYAddtguq
I'm going through a Beomaster 2000 and getting it fixed up. It is actually working ok, well what I have tested, but the plastic holding the tuner wheels is broken. I'm 2 days into measuring and drawing, and have printed a prototype to check dimensions of holes etc. Good thing as the most broken and hard to measure part was out by about 2mm and the screw slots could do with an extra .5mm. I want to try and beef it up a little too, as the posts are obvious stress points.
Pretty sure some capacitors will need replacing, but for the moment this is the biggest problem. I have scanned the service manual with OCR with the idea I could get a list of all the capacitors (all parts really) into a single, easily viewable format, to make bulk ordering replacements easier. A bit of work in progress, looking forward to getting this board built and on to the next step.
Having restored a few BM3400's and BM2000's, I can assure you that you are in for a treat if you do it right.
Worth it to also strengthen the plastic posts holding the tuner display (with epoxy).
Search through the forums here on these 2 models, and you should find a whole bunch of good tips to help you.
Thanks for the encouragement! So far I am impressed with it, tuner seems very good - it was working perfectly without antenna first couple of days, but something happened and it only works with an antenna now. I suspect a cap capped its last. Sound is good otherwise, but I am waiting on a 3.5-DIN adapter to check all the other inputs.
I'm 3D printing the board, so am in control of how the support structure is done. There appears to be a bit of extra room in there, so I can probably add a fair bit extra in there. I may make the STL available when it is done for a donation of
Here's an update on my tuner board project. Below is the first half, the second half is still printing, probably a couple of hours from finishing.
My printer is a bit too small to print as a single piece, but for now this will help me set the measurements down, and I'll look for someone to run me off a single piece print. I have a contact at an Engineering Department at a local university, and they have a very large HP printer I might be able to get it run on. I'll ask very nicely
Hi fkatze,
That looks impressive already! At the HP experience center in Barcelona I saw their state of the art 3d printers in action. Very, very good quality. They even print parts for their 3d printers with those I hope your plan works, am curious for the result
Regards, Johan
Thanks! It's been quite a lot of work, about 4 days, though a LOT of that was really learning FreeCAD. The HP printers really are something, these ones use powder and I think laser fusing? can't remember what he said, but they get 98% the strength of injection moulding. Pretty expensive but then no tooling costs.
Anyhow, here's the second half, and I screwed in the rollers. I'll glue them together then do a test fit out. I'm pretty sure it will be good enough. A few spacing blocks need to be added to the underside but that is pretty minor.
Outstanding!
Where were you when I had to repair mine?
How did you repair yours? I can't help you (yet) with the other bits, but if you want the tunerboard file, will probably be finished with it today or tomorrow. I made a few changes already, made the posts a little thicker and some minor stuff, waiting on spacer blocks for the underside. Going to go do my final test fit in a few minutes and go from there.
Just did a test fit, and have a hole bunch of changes I need to make. One of my support ribs is in the wrong place, preventing fitment of the pulley on the variable capacitor. Major geometry seems ok though. I'll change the top right screw hole into a slot like the rest as it is just a little restrictive as it is. Stay tuned.
Rolled in a whole bunch of changes, and it is just about there. Pretty much everything fits now, I can get the main pulley wheel on and off, just 2 things needed a little bit of attention. Printing a new version, and hopefully that will be it locked down.
Latest board seems to be a winner, it fit nicely, everything seems to be ok.
But...
I had a problem when trying to refit the tuning cord - the little plastic post that the spring goes over snapped never to be seen again. I thought about it, had a beer, swore a few times, thought about it some more, put a drill in my hand...then had an idea.
Made the following part, tolerances tight enough that it basically is friction fit. Post seems strong enough, only time will tell I guess. I could perhaps make it a little thicker but seems like it will be ok.
Then I had a WORSE problem - got everything just about together, and at the very final stage...the cord snapped I used my swearing quota for the day, so that's that. I shouldn't be too surprised, it's 40+ years old. But still, annoying.
So that was my fabulous day. A week of solid progress on the board comes to an end, and a setback with the cord and pulley.
Menahem Yachad: Outstanding! Where were you when I had to repair mine?
Purely for the challenge I am modelling the preset plastic bit. It should be a fair deal simpler than the board.
The preset slide cover holder was easier than the tuner board. I omitted the notches on the top as I can't see an obvious reason for them to be there. I assume there is a reason, I just don't know what it is.
Here's a pic, original in the rear:
No good reason to do this besides "I have a 3D printer", but I modelled the preset panel. I think the cover is more likely to be missing, and I might have a go at that next.
While doing this, I got an idea. The panel on the other side could easily be modified to include controls and mounting point for a bluetooth receiver. I like that idea as it would leave the original design completely intact, and there is plenty of room inside to make a few additions, and none of it need be permanent and could be completely reversible. So it sounds like I might have a bit of a project on my hands.
The fun continues. New holder for the slide control board. Printing as I type this. I made a happy discovery about the left hand slide cover - it is basically the same as the right hand one, but just a little bit shorter, and the mounting holes in a slightly different position (and only 2 instead of 3).
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Just fitted it up - first thing I don't have to do a second time! Pretty happy with it, but I might have used PETG and a higher infill ratio. Not to matter. I will change over to PETG and I'll redo everything then.
I finished the Left Hand Loudness/Tape slide holder today, so here are the major pieces so far. I'm modelling the actual slide cover profile right now, and hopefully it won't be too difficult to make left and right slide covers. Once the profile is done, I'll return to the Left Hand holder, as I want to be able to modify that to accept controls for a bluetooth/microSD card player and hopefully house any boards etc as well. I haven't found anything ready made that I like yet, so that may end up being something I make myself.
Had a productive day recapping the BM2000. There's still one to go, but the order got shipped into 2 parts and I haven't got it yet. Oh well...
I took video of the procedure as well, but unfortunately I probably need more light to keep the GoPro happy. Anyhow, there's some photos if you are so inclined:
https://imgur.com/a/3kv2Qpm
You also need to replace ALL the potentiometer Trimmers.
...d'oh
Menahem Yachad: You also need to replace ALL the potentiometer Trimmers.
Is this what you are talking about? I'll have to get a parts list together and make an order.
Exactly
Search for Piher PTC10 - same size replacement, far superior quality.
Of course, match the Ohmic resistance to the existing values of the poti - ie replace a 200 ohm poti, with a 200 ohm, or if not available , with a 250 ohm poti.
Ok, thanks!
I cant find that brand from my preferred supplier, but I can get something that's a match quality~wise, so that's good enough for me. I'm th finking of Vishay T7 series, if it fits the mounting holes. I'm not exactly sure of the ohm values, - the schematics sorta have it, but the component list sorta doesn't - maybe I need to interpret it a bit more. Anyhow, my 220uF arrived today, so in it goes in about half an hour.
Vishay T7 is an excellent quality component, however it is too small to fit in the existing 10mm pitch holes.
Piher PTC10 by Amphenol is the best potentiometer which will fit in ALL the vintage stereos.
Yeah, I'll check dimensions before I order. Vishay, Bourns, and Copal seem to be the main brands, along with something called TE. A few others of course.
I mostly had success in replacing the caps. It all seems to working. One thing I noticed is that the FM doesn't seem to come in stereo. Though I know that prior to doing anything to it, it would take a while and the stereo light would light up and it seemed to be ok. I need to test the tape input, but I am gluing down one of the metal switches. I also noticed a bit of flakiness in the treble response in the left speaker - switched the plugs around and it seems to follow that channel, so not the speaker itself. If I wiggle the treble control body it seems to bring it on, to maybe just a bit of resoldering needed.
Anyway, it is getting better, and I'm sure most of these problems existed from the beginning, just as I get more into fixing it, I notice more wrong with it
Menahem Yachad: Piher PTC10 by Amphenol is the best potentiometer which will fit in ALL the vintage stereos.
I can find PT10's easily enough, but PTC10's difficult. Same thing?
Not at all the same - Download the datasheets and read up on them.
PT has the resistive element made of Carbon, which overheats and oxidizes - just look at your current potis.
PTC has Cermet (Cer = Ceramic, Met = Metallic) resistive elements, which is much more heat- and oxidization-resistant
Mouser and Digikey have plenty of stock, for what you need.
I can also offer you stock, if you are really stuck.
Menahem Yachad:PTC has Cermet
got it. I didn't find datasheets because the suppliers I looked at don't carry them. I'll try Mouser. Cheers!
By the way, you don't know where I could get replacement treble/volume/etc sliders? I've got a funny feeling there is some burn/corrosion damage.
fkatze:I'll try Mouser.
I've found the following - look correct? You are probably wondering about the 250ohm trimmers - to get those in the same configuration the min order is 2000. No thanks.
It's hard to find decent alternatives as the measurements of the posts can be all over the place. Some of them would be perfect if they had nice long standoffs that you could bend to shape, but most are a bit too short.
The resistive element is never the problem, it's the metal parts that oxidizes and lose contact. They can go all black.The rotating part contacts the resistive track at its outer end and slides metal-metal at its inner end (around its hub).It's the metal-metal contact that fails - or in really bad cases the outer end of the rotating part that breaks off due to the metal being weakened by oxidation.The oxidation to the metal track(s) is also what gives the scratching sounds from (not least sliding) potentiometers that haven't been used regularly.Dirt on the resistive track pushes away fairly easily, but oxidation and the resulting microscopic pitting to the metal track(s) will have to be removed mechanically. Contact cleaner is most often only a temporary fix in these cases, - its effect goes away as it evaporates.
Don't trust the old settings and don't use them as reference for setting the new trimmers.Do the adjustments as shown in the servicemanual, - and in that order.
You can safely use PT-10 trimmers in everything that isn't going to space.
Martin
If you are stuck, don't use that PT15 - you need a TOP-adjustable unit.
Use a PT10, or a Bourns 3352E,.
Thanks to you both for your advice. The parts I need come to about $7 and $24 for postage...
I'll have a look if I need anything else, but I'll live with that if I have to. Cheers!