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Beolab 14 / Beoplay S8 Surround Sound Question

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spangle
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spangle Posted: Tue, May 31 2016 8:43 PM

Hello! I hope someone can help me, as I can't find the exact answers for my predicament / scenario.

I would like to add either the Beolab 14 or the Beoplay S8 to my non B&O TV as i'm a huge fan of the satellites, especially with the floor stands due to my small space. I've heard that some of the S8 subs can power up to 5 satellites, is there anyway to know which ones will do this? The S8 is much cheaper and would prefer to save money where possible!

Due to my setup, I will need at least 4 of (either S8 / Beolab 14) satellites. With the (forgive my ignorance) cable that looks like a VGA connection, can I set the B&O system up for the front and rear speakers, and a totally different centre speaker plugged into my AV receiver? - Or will the VGA style cable need all 5.1 wired into the receiver?

When either of these systems are plugged into an AV receiver, does the B&O amp still power the speakers, or does the AV receiver handle these duties?

The long and short of it, and i'm sure others have been in the same situation. Is that I could buy 2x S8 systems, 4x Beolab 14 floor stands, another centre speaker all for less than the Beolab 4.1 system. 

Apologies for all the questions, I think i'm just trying to stretch my budget a little if possible!

Bonus question: Can the Beolab 14 alternate covers be used on the S8 as well? Some white covers on the black speakers could look quite nice :)

Earle
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Earle replied on Tue, May 31 2016 9:30 PM

Spangle, let's see if I can answer all your questions here...

If you only need 4 satellites (front and rear), you will save quite a bit of money by purchasing 2 S8's (and you will get a second subwoofer at the same time). This will also be cheaper than hoping you get a S8 with all the amps built in, and purchasing additional satellites separately.

No matter how you connect your S8, the B&O amps within the subwoofer will be powering the system. If you connect the S8 using the VGA cable (Multi-Cable), the subwoofer will attenuate the speaker level of the AVR to line level, in which the B&O amps will take over amplifying the signal. 

From what I understand the VGA cable is not included with the S8 and has a cost of $85USD - in which case, you may need two. The S8 does include the necessary connections if your AVR has pre-outs.

Basically, if you will be content using a third party centre channel, you're probably better off purchasing two S8's.

As for your bonus question, everything BeoLab 14 is backwards compatible with the S8. So yes, the covers are interchangeable.

Good Luck! Yes - thumbs up

Mark-N
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Mark-N replied on Tue, May 31 2016 9:51 PM

I don't know that I have the authorative answer to your questions, but I did buy the BeoLab 14 5.1 and later a BeoLab 14 2.1 which I added additional satellites.

I know that the initial production run of the BeoPlayS8 had amplifiers for 5 satellites, from what I read here, but later it was reported that it was changed with only 2 amplifiers.  This knowledge is only from what I read here.

The "VGA" cable that comes with the BeoLab 14 4.1/5.1 has 5 pairs of stripped leads that connect to the speaker terminals on your receiver, and 1 rca plug for the subwoofer.

You could connect all but the center channel speaker and use your own center channel that is powered by your receiver.

I did not get this cable with my BeoLab 14 2.1 system, and it does not show it in the included parts instructions.

I am fairly positive that all the accessories for the BeoLab 14 will work with the S8, including the grills and stands.  I don't know if the "VGA" cable would be an option for the S8, but the connection hub has been introduced for the S8 that may give you other options, like optical.  If you want 4 satellites your only option may be the 14 though.

Earle
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Earle replied on Tue, May 31 2016 9:59 PM

Good point, Mark... Now that I think about it, the VGA Multi-Cable is probably a toss-up regarding the S8's capability to use it. 

BL14 (4.1) may be the better way to go, with the least amount of issues/unknowns. But keep in mind, BL14 is discontinued and B&O are ridding themselves of stock, so strike now, or you may be left with only one option, and that's to get two S8's.

Mark-N
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Mark-N replied on Tue, May 31 2016 10:04 PM

I agree, if you can figure out how to use 2 S8's with your receiver that would be an interesting solution! It's hard to quantify the sound difference using 2 subwoofers, but I like it.

 

spangle
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spangle replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 9:30 AM

Hi all! Thanks for such inform replies, it's very appreciated!

As far as I can tell, the s8 sub has the VGA / Multi-cable on the underside, therefore I should be able to use one of these cables to connect to my AV receiver? While looking through the s8 manual, it looks like the speakers take standard speaker wire, and therefore could connect the satellites directly to my receiver? This would leave the sub(s) connected via VGA - would this sound OK, the speakers not being controlled by the B&O sub?

As far as the connection hub goes, it looks like I'll be stuck in 2.1 mode, unless I luck out and get an s8 that has all 5 amps. 

Thanks for the bonus question answer too, it's got me thinking!

 

Mark-N
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Mark-N replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 10:53 AM

Theoretically it would work.  I believe the sub passes all the frequencies above 120 Hz to the satellites, but... the sub also contains all the DSP for the satellites to remove the problems they couldn't fix otherwise.  There was a lot of work tuning the BeoLab 14 / S8 so I would imagine that this system works best and give the greatest performance as a package.  My information is derived from watching the videos about the BeoLab 14 so certainly not the last word in the matter! Smile

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 4:51 PM

Hmmm..... Personally, I wouldn't connect the satellites directly to the AVR. For starters, without opening the unit, you can't tell the frequency response of the satellite, so you'd have to guess the crossover setting for the AVR - you might be able to just 'listen' in the setting, but that's not for me. The frequency response noted in the Technical Specs is for the whole system, as I believe it was intended to be treated as one full-range speaker. And as Mark mentioned, you'd basically be throwing away all of Geoff Martin's hard work in tuning the system.

Also, just because the D-SUB (VGA) connection exists, doesn't mean it works. Remember, users report the 'newer' S8's not having the 5 (satellite) amps, and yet all the connections are still there - it's just cheaper (Tue Mantoni) to not have to produce a new panel with less ports. So, just like I said, going with the S8 might be a gamble in hoping it has all 5 amps and that the D-SUB socket is functional.

Lastly, yes, the Connection Hub only has connection as 2.1, but you'd be connecting one set as the front, and the other as the back - would have to be done via a pre-amp connection

Basically, if budget is your concern, here are your options (in USD):

Beloab 14 (4.1) $3395 + Floor Stands (x4) $780

Beoplay S8 (x2) $2798 + Floor Stands (x4) $780

D-SUB (VGA) $85 - depending on what your configuration is, you may need more than one.

spangle
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spangle replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 6:55 PM

Thanks again everyone, it's been a great help! I think the Beolab 14 might just be the safer choice - it really feels like I'm trying to fit the S8 into something that will just be more hassle than it's worth. 

Those USD prices sound ideal, but unfortunately I'm in the UK and the price difference is greater than ~ 25%, it's actually closer to a 50% price increase! This is due to the S8 generally being way below RRP wheras the Beolab is fixed. 

I think the final question is, can I buy extra Beolab satellites later on, or do I have to buy the full system now? Otherwise I'm forced to double up on subs and spend the extra money!

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 7:07 PM

I think you'd be better off with the 14, based on what you're trying to do,... but it's certainly also achievable with the S8's depending on the configuration.

To answer your question, yes, you can add satellites later on... HOWEVER, the BL14 is discontinued, and may no longer be offered as production has ceased. All that's left is what is left, unless you scour eBay and the like (LifeStyle AV), but usually they are for full sets. Also, adding satellites later on is not the most economical solution as individual satellites are steeply priced.

Mark-N
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Mark-N replied on Wed, Jun 1 2016 11:14 PM

I recently purchased 3 satellites and they were priced at US $415 each just to give you an idea.

 

spangle
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spangle replied on Fri, Jun 17 2016 9:36 AM

Hi all!

Just a small update to say I went with the Beolab 14 5.1 setup, with a great deal from my local B&O dealer at around 20% off - so I couldn't pass it up!

After getting everything setup i'm having a very strange issue with the subwoofer. As soon as it receives any signal it starts rumbling and increases in volume very quickly until I have to unplug it. Has anyone experienced anything like this?

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Mark-N replied on Fri, Jun 17 2016 11:25 AM

This sounds a little different from the problem I initially had, but make sure you are using shielded ethernet cables if you are not using powerlink cables from B&O.  With normal ethernet cables mine made a horrible noise, but I don't remember it increasing in volume...

If you can, use CAT 7 cables as they are doubly shielded.  Each pair is shielded.  I hope this fixes your problem and you can start enjoying your new system!

 

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Mark-N replied on Fri, Jun 17 2016 12:12 PM

Sorry for my last reply.  I just remembered you are not connecting to your receiver with ethernet cables but using the cable I photographed above.  I'm not sure about the problem then.  Sorry!

 

spangle
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spangle replied on Sun, Jun 19 2016 12:11 PM

So, it turned out to be a faulty sub! That's replaced and I'm now enjoying B&O surround sound... sort of...

 

The system doesn't seem to turn on automatically, I have to unplug the sub and reconnect from the receiver to kick start it into gear. 

spangle
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spangle replied on Sun, Jun 19 2016 12:11 PM

<unintentional double post>

Duels
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Duels replied on Sun, Jun 19 2016 1:04 PM
spangle:

So, it turned out to be a faulty sub! That's replaced a I'm enjoying B&O surround sound... sort of...

The system doesn't seem to turn on automatically, I have to unplug the sub and reconnect from the receiver to kick start it into gear.

Well that's not right!
spangle
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spangle replied on Wed, Jun 22 2016 12:19 PM

I've narrowed down the issue to be something to do with the standby / auto-on of the Beolab system. I generally have my TV volume between 15-20, though when I increase this to the 60s the system kicks into gear (very loud) and then I'm able to decrease the volume to suitable levels without any issue. 

 

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Is there a way to force the system to be on constantly?

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 22 2016 6:05 PM

How do you have the BL14 connected? Your earlier posts indicated that you were going to use the D-SUB cable to connect to a non-B&O Receiver, but now that you mention your "TV volume", are you connected via the Line-In (RJ45-RCA)?

My Line-In connection does the same, though probably not as extreme as you are describing. The key for me is to turn up the volume slowly. 

On a side note, when I'm connected via the D-SUB cable in AMP mode, the amount of volume needed to turn on the system is not dramatic. 

spangle
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spangle replied on Wed, Jun 22 2016 10:44 PM

Thanks for the reply! 

I'm currently connected via the D-SUB in AMP mode to my receiver, as you describe. 

When I mention TV volume it's via the same remote using Bravia Sync / HDMI CEC etc. This controls the receiver volume. 

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 22 2016 11:36 PM

I had mine setup the same way (CEC TV - Yamaha Receiver via D-SUB). I don't have it hooked up that way at the moment because I bought a pre-amp... but I'll be returning it and going back to my original setup (that's a whole other story). 

If you can live with it for the time being, once I reconnect everything back the way it was (probably next week or so), I can tell you at what volume db my speakers turn on. I know our receivers aren't the same, but it should give you a gauge as to whether your unit is requiring a higher signal to trigger on.

spangle
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spangle replied on Fri, Jun 24 2016 11:24 PM

Of course, no problem! I hope you get your situation sorted too, it doesn't sound as plug-and-play as I was hoping!

I had a bit of a play, and the Beolab will turn on while emitting a test tone on the subwoofer. Which leads me to believer the whole system won't turn on until there is some low frequency noise / noise specifically from the sub pre-out. 

spangle
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spangle replied on Tue, Jun 28 2016 9:53 PM

Im actually considering getting a powered sub with a 'permanantly on' feature as this does seem to be a common problem with subs with an 'auto on' feature. I clearly have my volume too low ;) 

I mainly bought this system for the beautiful satellites / stands, and as I got such a great deal, I don't feel too cheated replacing the Beolab sub. Maybe when I move in the future, I'll be able to have louder volumes and get the benefit of using this sub again. 

The specs of the Beolab 14 state a crossover frequency of 120hz, so the satellites should be simple to connect directly to my receiver. My only concern is that when powered by the sub, the sats are powered via 140 watts, wheras my receiver only outputs 95 watts (at 8ohms) per channel. Do you think these speakers would need more power, and I would be damaging them in this way?

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I would not advice you to do this.

The satelites were made to work with the sub.

There is a Adaptive Bass Linearisation (ABL) built in to the complete setup (based in the sub), that balances the sound of the satelites and the sub at different volume/sound pressure..

I am not sure, that you can mimic this bas management with an ordinary receiver.

You might (?) damage the satelites.

MM

There is a tv - and there is a BV

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 29 2016 1:47 AM

I 100% agree with MM on that last post. However,... I am interested to see what outcome you would get by connecting the satellites directly to an external amp.

Anyway, as promised...

With test tone on left speaker, the green light on my BL14 cam on when receiver read 57.5db.

My SPL read 61.5 - 62.0 db, pointed directly at the satellite at about 0.5in away.

I think that's as accurate as I can get, as to how much signal it takes for my system to turn on. Oh yeah, just to confirm, it's connected to an external amp via the D-SUB cable in AMP mode.

spangle
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spangle replied on Wed, Jun 29 2016 5:03 PM

Thanks Earle, i'll check my system tonight to compare.

I'm aware that it's not the most optimal way to connect the components, but at the moment, it's not very optimal to have to increase the volume really loud and then quickly turn it down again before the neighbours complain. I'm just a little confused and frustrated by this bizarre limitation, as I expect to turn my TV on and hear sound straight away.

Earle
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Earle replied on Wed, Jun 29 2016 5:40 PM

No problem. 

Be aware, the speakers won't turn on instantaneously, per say. However, you really shouldn't be turning the volume way up before they power up, only to have to immediately turn it back down. 

In my opinion, the system should turn on once you reach the level of normal male speech. The key might just be turning the volume up a bit more slowly. There is a delay before the system detects the signal and turns on... and because of this, if I were to turn up the volume rapidly, I could reach incredible levels before the system actually turns on.

Hope that makes sense. Let us know how it works out!

GeorgeS8
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I have a Beoplay s8 2.1 for around 4 years, and recently I upgraded it to 4.1 and connected to the connection hub via a PowerLink Splitter and three RJ45 PL cables, it sounds better than 2.1 (you could say I am biased ^__^).

And I will further add one more satellite to make a 5.1, then connect the system via a D-SUB cable to the AV receiver, maybe one recommended at this forum.

One way to check whether the s8 is the 1st gen or 2nd gen I learned is, to see the 4-digital Type No. on the top nameplate of the Subwoofer, if the number is ranging from 6237 to 6239, then it’s 1st gen; if the number ranges from 6247 to 6249, then 2nd gen, or MK II.

I really enjoy the 4.1 (2X stereo) now, but I look forward to hearing the real 5.1 from this system.

Lastly, thanks for all the great information here, truly helpful when I made decisions for upgrading the system.

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