ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I got my hands on a Beomaster 6000 which I've wanted for a long time mainly for the looks of it rather than the audio capability!
I'm not the most experienced or knowledgeable about the electronics side of things (er... a 6000 i probably not the best thing to get ) but I don't mind getting stuck in to anything I can do - and its all fun isn't it!
Kudos to Rudy/Beolover for his inspirational blog/videos about the 6000 - he makes it look easy!
Well after plugging it in straight away (eager beaver!) it powered up but I noticed the sound control indicators don't light up. The motorised sliders all work but just not illuminated.
Like I say me and electronics are vague aquaintances - however, I measured the voltages to the lamps and got these values...
...but I'll leave that for future me to think about (any suggestions would be appreciated)
Had to give the tuning dial a bit of pressure to come out but it did with no casualties
Knickers down!
Eurghhh - that's a lot of dead skin cells!
It's clear that someone had 'helped' this beomaster at some point in it's life! But again it's something for future me to worry about.
Ahhh - the raised keypad panels, good old 70s glue...
...which has expanded and will be a PITA to get out.
And the frame is in three parts with the fixing holes split.
Other items on the list to think about:
- one of the back feet is missing
- the angle stand is missing
Other than that its going well!
The black aluminium trim had suffered a few knocks so searched for methods of restoring it but drew a blank. I decided to try a quick and dirty method!
Not perfect but acceptable to me - better than big obvious scratches!
Well done and good luck with future work!
It's pretty much impossible to properly refinish anodized aluminium parts, at least without redoing them all over in an industrial process.
But there is one touch-up product that reacts chemically and does a better or at least more permanent job than black felt pen or paint. It's made by Birchwood Casey, do a search or ask your local gun shop.
--mika
Thanks mika - the aluminium black touch up looks ideal, I'll have to try and get some here in the UK! [EDIT - have ordered some!]
I've moved on to the display panel - again it's had a hard life it seems - all four corners are bashed, luckily not so far as to affect the main display area.
The surface was cloudy with fine polishing scratches and some deeper marks but none that are too terrible.
I used Xerapol plastic polish on the corner to test and it's come up really well!
Tricky to see in the above but the bottom right is where I've given it a good amount of finger-grease!
I'm going to use this again on the Beocord 5000 cover seeing as how happy I am with the result!
Removed the past-their-best felt pads...
...and will replace with fresh ones...
...but not before a quick touch up!
Nice to see you repairing something nice and simple!
Peter
Well it's probably optimistic to use the word 'repair' Peter - 'tart-up' is more my level!
Well the bottle of Birchwood-Casey Aluminium Black has arrived so I thought I'd try it on the trim panel.
It's great for out of sight screw holes that have been ravaged and also for large areas that have been bashed, however, one big issue for me is that as it's a chemical reaction that eats into the aluminium any over coverage will leave a mark that's slightly blacker on the existing anodised finish - like a watermark.
I ended up trying to remove this staining with magic-eraser and re-finishing with Sharpie again!
But it's all a learning process!
I find this thread interesting.....I will be starting on the same journey early this year when I'm done with the current 4400. Perhaps we will be able to help each other out as we go along ;¬)
Craig
Really.......small world, though I'm technically in Kirklevington, just up the spital within the grounds of the Jail ;¬)
Craig: Really.......small world, though I'm technically in Kirklevington, just up the spital within the grounds of the Jail ;¬)
The visiting hours are good though!
I wonder if the innards are as dusty - probably!
Peter: Craig: Really.......small world, though I'm technically in Kirklevington, just up the spital within the grounds of the Jail ;¬) The visiting hours are good though! I wonder if the innards are as dusty - probably!
Don't know yet whats going on inside, but from what I have been reading it will probably keep me busy for some time......with no hope of parole!
Incidently......why MrRoast?
@Craig - haha, a long story but basically a nickname someone gave me years ago that stuck!
Finally managed to remove all/as-much-as-I-physically-could of the old glue that has been used to glue the brushed steel sheet down. It had expanded (possibly due to moisture over time?) and caused the panel to lift up - not as simple as just glueing it down again sadly! I used a scalpel, vacuum cleaner and lots of patience to hawk out the remnants trying not to either bend the steel too much or damage the surrounding areas.
I sparingly used UHU all purpose power adhesive smears in two thin layers on either side of the contact area - it's UV and ware resistant once cured so this shouldn't happen again!
Getting the panel pressed down evenly in all areas and with sufficient force to allow a flat join was a challenge! I used a few g-clamps and lots of this cereal box card to pack between the clamps ad the steel.
My only accident was that the black plastic retainer (that stops the button from sitting above the flush level of the panel) of the first button along pinged off so had to be re-glued separately afterwards. These buttons naturally sit proud above the surface without the retaining clips so that they spring back to flush after being pressed.
Overall I'm happy with the result (I hadn't cleaned the panel at all so that line on the edge of the stand by button is muck not a shadow!)
This Beomaster 6000 wasn't in the best cosmetic condition to begin with but is a damn site better now!
Lastly for this bit I needed to retouch the black areas between the aluminium frame and the steel buttons - I did this with some Humbrol matt enamel paint and again lots of patience. I still needed thinners and rags to clean up slight mistakes!
For the time being I need to reassemble everything so I can store it away as I need the space. This leaves me with the job of replacing the three missing plastic feet on the bottom!
This is sterling effort so far.......it's encouraging to see, do you intend to complete the work in the near future? Or will it be stored indefinitely........
Thanks Craig - more than likely it will go into hibernation for a while. Limited space means that my workbench is also my kitchen table so I can't really leave disassembled hi-fi about unless I wan the wrath of the wife!
Ultimately the skills needed to restore these items are beyond me electronically - although it's a learning experience to disassemble and see what makes them tick under the skin!
I've restored 11 of these Beomaster 6000 quads in the past few years and I always remove the keypad completely from the alu base. Also remove all the black plastic retainers (they come loose over time anyhow). The advantage of this procedure is that it is a lot easier to straighten the key pad fingers if needed, a lot easier to do the black stripe painting and it gives a "as new" finish. I'm adding a few pictures to support what I just explained. I'm trying to add a few pictures to support what I just explained, but no luck so far.