ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
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There is a tv - and there is a BV
It looks very nice!Why is no backlight on the last button? Is this configurable?
TWG:It looks very nice! Why is no backlight on the last button? Is this configurable?
mjmedlo: @Beojeff Do you know that ou can order any keypad front you want.. All of the internals are the same. I regularly order several W6brl units for a project. But may reprogram them as any assortment of keypads. The caveat of course is that the hybrid keypads will only become other hybrid and the true seetouch keypad can not co tell a local load. Lutron has a very nice product here
@Beojeff
Do you know that ou can order any keypad front you want..
All of the internals are the same. I regularly order several W6brl units for a project. But may reprogram them as any assortment of keypads.
The caveat of course is that the hybrid keypads will only become other hybrid and the true seetouch keypad can not co tell a local load.
Lutron has a very nice product here
Exactly. That's why I always buy them in the standard white -- because you change them to whatever color and configuration you want when you get the free engraving. The lead time for orders for most colors, including midnight black, can be many weeks. Which is pointless to wait that long when you get the new color when the engraving arrives in 2 weeks. When you initially the keypads in a specific color, all that you're really getting is a dummy blank button cover that gets replace anyway when the engraving arrives.
As nearly all of my lights have been replaced with Philips Hue, I usually hardwire the lights to alway have an "on" load and use the non-hybrid ("wall") keypads since I don't need to control the load.
@mjmedlo
Lutron tech support has told me that the dimensions of the RadioRa2 tabletop keypad is the same as that of the QS tabletop keypad. Therefore, one could replace the top part of the RadioRa2 tabletop keypad from the standard white or black to one of the nice metallic finishes available for the QS tabletop keypads. Have you any idea of what the pricing might be for those metallic top parts in the QS line?
Regards
Kiran
Born in NL; I ride ML
Kiran:Beojeff, I would like to see more/updated pictures of your custom buttons and “scenes”...
I wish I could upload photos to the forum using Safari.
Living with my 2 Moments since summer has changed the way that I use music and understand the NL sources. I've cancelled my subscription to Spotify. Instead of labeling a button as "Deezer", I'm now using "Music." Instead of labeling a button as "TuneIn", I'm now using "Radio." I thought this is a good idea to future-proof against B&O changes of services -- such as they did with Spotify and Deezer. I use a "CD" button to activate my music library from my BeoSound 5 as a source. However, I'm finding that I never use my BeoSound 5 anymore. If I'm using a LIGHT button at the top of a keypad, I omit the CD button.I don't use the Bang & Olufsen iOS app either. I usually select my music on one of my Moments and then using JOIN when I enter a room. However, I do often select RADIO or TURNTABLE. If I want to use a wall button keypad for turning the lights in a room on/off, I put LIGHT as the top button. JOIN is always either the top or second button and OFF is always the bottom button. I've kept this consistent throughout my home. I'm finding that this system works perfectly for me now. Here is an example of a wall keypad:
Join
Radio
Music
CD
Turntable
Off
(down arrow) / (up arrow) -- (These are for stepping back or stepping forward through content)
One could argue that an Essence wheely might serve the purpose. However, I'm still finding the Essence remotes to be horribly unreliable in that they lose their BT connection and the connection frequently must be reset.
P.S. I think I would use TuneIn much more if B&O would find away to equalize the sound level to be consistent with the other sources. It would seem that this should be configurable! I hate rushing to turn down the blasting volume from TuneIn.
beojeff: P.S. I think I would use TuneIn much more if B&O would find away to equalize the sound level to be consistent with the other sources. It would seem that this should be configurable! I hate rushing to turn down the blasting volume from TuneIn.
HAH! I thought I was the only person having this issue. Also, Jeff, very smart move to use "general" label names for your buttons for future proofing.
Sal: beojeff: P.S. I think I would use TuneIn much more if B&O would find away to equalize the sound level to be consistent with the other sources. It would seem that this should be configurable! I hate rushing to turn down the blasting volume from TuneIn. HAH! I thought I was the only person having this issue. Also, Jeff, very smart move to use "general" label names for your buttons for future proofing.
Indeed with regard to future-proofing as a new engraved overlay costs $70. However, sometimes unused engraving certificates show up on eBay for $15 to $30.
Kiran:Good idea to use generic names to future proof. But I will definitely have 4 playlists going by the colours on the BS5 and trigger them with a custom button. I love this idea for specific music artists I love and I would also know the track order lol. Is your Lutron bridge repeater a small white box that fits in your palm with an ethernet connection? This is what I have. Will show you pics later of this... Keep the macros going 👍🏻👍🏻
But I will definitely have 4 playlists going by the colours on the BS5 and trigger them with a custom button. I love this idea for specific music artists I love and I would also know the track order lol.
Is your Lutron bridge repeater a small white box that fits in your palm with an ethernet connection? This is what I have. Will show you pics later of this...
Keep the macros going 👍🏻👍🏻
Have you tried writing macros to trigger Deezer playlists via the BLGW? It's actually quite easy. I've recreated all of my BS5 colored playlists on Deezer and now use the Deezer playlists. A downside to the BS5 playlists is that once you have listened through the playlist, you must recreate the playlist. This is by design according to the BS5 manual and seems to me to be just a bad idea by B&O.
I recall that we have different Lutron systems. I think you use QS while I use RadioRa 2. My Lutron bridge is a slightly larger white box than yours and has an antenna as well as ethernet connection. Lutron recently introduced a "light" version of the bridge called RA2 Select that can be programmed by the user on a mobile app. I don't know if this is supported by the BLGW. The computer app for programming the regular RadioRa 2 is only available to dealers (unless you know the right people). To me, this dealer requirement is a lame hold-over from the days of needing professional installations for home automation. The program is actually quite easy to use, and in my opinion it should be made available to the end user.
P.S. @ Kiran-
With you Moment, you can randomize your Deezer playlists with a double-tap on the LCD screen. This is a nice feature over the BS5 playlists when you get tired of hearing the tracks in the same order. I haven't tried writing this random function into my macros yet, though.
I think that a Home Control button is a great idea. Of course, to navigate the screen, you need a remote. However, you're right that you would be able instantly to see the camera. I checked the BLGW setup and the command is there to use in a macro.
The PAUSE button is one of my most-used buttons. You can use it to pause/play everything from tv programs, apple tv content, blu-ray movies, music, etc. It's so handy to just reach over and press the button when the phone rings or if you need to run to the kitchen for something, etc. Once you have that macro, you can also use voice commands. "Alexa, trigger pause."
Other buttons that I use daily are "Goodbye" and "Welcome" on a keypad next to the door. On the nightstand, I often use "Morning" and "Good night." Again, all of these macros can be voice controlled with Alexa via IFTTT.
Oh, also CINEMA ON and CINEMA OFF are useful buttons to have.
beojeff:Oh, also CINEMA ON and CINEMA OFF are useful buttons to have.
Kiran: beojeff: Oh, also CINEMA ON and CINEMA OFF are useful buttons to have. Yes I will definitely have this in my big sitting room. This would switch off the beovision, switch on the projector and the motorised screen would come down... somehow lol...
beojeff: Oh, also CINEMA ON and CINEMA OFF are useful buttons to have.
Yes I will definitely have this in my big sitting room.
This would switch off the beovision, switch on the projector and the motorised screen would come down... somehow lol...
I just now posted the solution on my thread regarding creating the correct cable for CINEMA control. I just got this working yesterday. You just need to get the correct pinout boards and connect the pins using wires. Let me know if you need help with this. One use of the Lintronic code converter is that you can connect it to the BeoSystem / BeoVision for CINEMA control. You can program the code converter to send out IR commands to lower the screen, turn on the projector, and send the correct LIGHT/CONTROL command to the BLGW to trigger any macro for setting the lighting when you send out the CINEMA ON command from a b&o remote or Lintronic keypad. When you press the CINEMA OFF button, you can raise the projector screen, turn off the projector, and raise the lights. In my case, I use the PUC to control the projector directly, but you can use this workaround if you don't have a PUC for your projector.
The BeoSystem 4 has 4 "open collectors" that let you set 4 different timer settings if you wanted to be more precise with timings of triggers for things such as a projector lift, shades, etc. However, I just used Open Collector 1 for everything. You can also use these open collectors with relays. However, since I'm not familiar enough with relays, I chose to use the Lintonic IR solution.
beojeff:I just now posted the solution on my thread regarding creating the correct cable for CINEMA control. I just got this working yesterday. You just need to get the correct pinout boards and connect the pins using wires. Let me know if you need help with this. One use of the Lintronic code converter is that you can connect it to the BeoSystem / BeoVision for CINEMA control. You can program the code converter to send out IR commands to lower the screen, turn on the projector, and send the correct LIGHT/CONTROL command to the BLGW to trigger any macro for setting the lighting when you send out the CINEMA ON command from a b&o remote or Lintronic keypad. When you press the CINEMA OFF button, you can raise the projector screen, turn off the projector, and raise the lights. In my case, I use the PUC to control the projector directly, but you can use this workaround if you don't have a PUC for your projector. The BeoSystem 4 has 4 "open collectors" that let you set 4 different timer settings if you wanted to be more precise with timings of triggers for things such as a projector lift, shades, etc. However, I just used Open Collector 1 for everything. You can also use these open collectors with relays. However, since I'm not familiar enough with relays, I chose to use the Lintonic IR solution.
Kiran-
I think you misunderstood. I use the PUC for control of my Samsung projector -- not for control of the projector screen. There is no PUC for any projector screen.
Another way to control the projector screen is to create an xml file for the screen and load that into your Beo6 configuration to control it though the Beo6. I've done this, too. You could also use a Global Caché itch IP2IR to control the screen via IR through your BLGW.
The ideal way to control a projector screen is if you have a 12-volt trigger from your projector to the screen. My old SIM2 projector had this but my Samsung projector does not have a 12-volt trigger.
The CINEMA settings through the BeoSystem / BeoVision are great because you can adjust the timing of everything to look smooth -- such as waiting to lower the screen until the tv electronic curtains close and waiting to open the projector's electronic curtains until after the screen is fully lowered in place. It takes a bit of trial and error to fine-tune these settings to make everything perfect.
When shopping for a projector screen, it's good to find one that has both IR control as well as a socket for a 12-volt trigger.
I meant "Global Caché iTach" not "itch." Annoying auto-correct and the inability to edit a post from Safari...
beojeff:To more specifically answer your questions, you only need the Lutron Main Repeater and can add any keypads to that main repeater. You don't actually need any lights. The Lutron keypads communicate wirelessly with the Main Repeater. The Main Repeater is connected to the BLGW. As I recall, I think it's done via a serial to USB adapter to the BLGW.
Bumping up this old thread to ask some newbie questions.
I'd like to have a few of these keypads in my house connect to the BLGW. I'm based in the Netherlands...
So do I only need a HomeWorks QS Hybrid Repeater, connected through Ethernet, in addition to the keypads?
1990:So do I only need a HomeWorks QS Hybrid Repeater, connected through Ethernet, in addition to the keypads?