ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I want to replace an existing wall dimmer with an LC2, but are unsure how to connect the cables.
Current dimmer:
Has tree terminals. Two marked with a "wavy =" and an arrow, and one marked "L"
When I remove the dimmer I can see that two black leads are joined together in the terminal marked "L" and two yellow leads are connected to the two terminals with a "wavy ="
On the LC2 here are four teminals marked "arrow", "arrow", "N" and "N".
I tried to connect one yellow lead to each "arrow" terminal, and one black to each "N" terminal in the LC2 but it did not work.
Any advice?
/Claes
Livingroom: BL3, BL11, BV11-46 Kitchen: Beosound 1 GVA, Beocom 2 Bathroom: M3 Homeoffice: M3, Beocom 2 Library: Beosound Emerge, Beocom 6000 Bedroom: M5, Essence remote Travel: Beoplay E8 2.0, Beoplay EQ, Beoplay Earset
So, you have to pairs consisting of a back and a yellow leed.
The arrows on the LC2 are pointing inwards and outwards. The inward ponting arrow has to come from the mains. The outward pointing arrow ( combined with 1 black lead) has to be connected with the lamp.
So, you''ll have to check which yellow lead goes to the lamp and which yellow goes to the mains from the wall.
Keep in mind when you make wrong connections, you can blow up the LC2( at least the fuse)
Thanks, that correct. Two yellow and two black
Beobuddy: The outward pointing arrow ( combined with 1 black lead) has to be connected with the lamp.
The outward pointing arrow ( combined with 1 black lead) has to be connected with the lamp.
So I have to stick two leads (one black and one yellow) in the terminal with an outward pointing arrow?
Shall the other black be in the terminal marked "N" on the inward side?
I've done some tinkering...
Don't bother connecting the correct colours as long you have both a yellow and a black lead on each side which corresponds like this:
Beobuddy: I've done some tinkering... Don't bother connecting the correct colours as long you have both a yellow and a black lead on each side which corresponds like this:
-but shouldn't the brown/blue wires on your picture be connected that way too...(brown-brown/blue-blue)
Steffen: -but shouldn't the brown/blue wires on your picture be connected that way too...(brown-brown/blue-blue)
That doesn't matter! You're still able to put the plug two ways into the outlet socket, at least here in Holland!
Brengen & Ophalen
Bumping up this thread again.
I messed up when describing the leads I had to play with. Removed the old dimmer this weekend and discovered I messed up when describing what leads there are. This is how it looks:
- Its one black lead coming from the mains.
- Its one black lead going up towards the lamp
- Its two yellow leads evidently going up to the lamp.
So, any advise on connecting the LC2, given the leads I have?
Beobuddy:There should be 2 leads coming from the main... BTW what make of lamp is it? Maybe it helps.
There is actually one more lead (white) but that one is only passing so there is no possibility to connect that lead other than cutting it.
Could you draw the white line in the picture you made?
(before I suggest something wong what could destroy your LC2 )
Beobuddy: Could you draw the white line in the picture you made? (before I suggest something wong what could destroy your LC2 )
It doesn't make it easier...
More leads, more possibilities.
You could take a mains lead of your own and connect it to the LC2. Leaves you only with the question which 2 leads to use from the lamp.
That would be possible to measure, if you have the equipment for it..
You could take out the bulb from the lamp and search for any lead that corresponds with the one you found in the dimmer.
The problem is that a LC2 is made to sit on a wire, not as a wall switch.
The difference is that when you mount it on the cable that goes to the lamp, you have a 230V wire and a Null wire, which powers the LC2 aswell as gives power to the lamp.
The wall switch only has 230V wire, which is cut so the switch can open and close the circuit. This means that the lamp has the Null wire where it is mounted. At least that's how it's done in Denmark.
Your light dimmer has more wires as it is normally part of a three way switch, so it has the two wires going for the signal to the lamp, as well as a "control" wire, meaning that you can turn the lights on and off from two or more switches. You can look up "3 way switch" for the explanation.
Sorry but I can't remember all the correct electrical terms. I can try to do a basic drawing of the system tonight or tomorrow.
Hiort is replacing a dimmer, so it must have already a null and a phase lead.
Beobuddy: Hiort is replacing a dimmer, so it must have already a null and a phase lead.
Not necessarily. Although in Danish, you can get an idea of a light dimmer here: http://www1.lk.dk/katalog/vejledning/98767_04.pdf
This is a dimmer that is controllable from a Beo4/5/6, and built into the wall. As the diagram shows, the phase goes into the dimmer at the L, then out through the arrow with a wave, and the Null goes directly to the lamp outtake. This is not how the LC2 works, as this needs both the phase and the null. If you look at the second diagram, you see a scenario with more switches. This has a wire between them, which I believe is called Reference, at least it is in Danish.
Seems to me that in Hiorts case, one yellow wire goes to the lamp, and the other to a reference switch, and the black is the phase.
It's called N(eutral) and L(ive) side
You wrong Leslie ;) many dimmers don't require Neutral, hence assuming he already have Neutral could be misleading
Leslie: Beobuddy: Hiort is replacing a dimmer, so it must have already a null and a phase lead. It's called N(eutral) and L(ive) side
Don't worry - be Happy
Not really to qualified electrician is a piece of cake ... besides it does follows simple rules (it's not DC after all ;) it's L&N in and L&N out ;)
for more details see: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/manuals/LC_2_English.pdf
Beobuddy: It doesn't make it easier... More leads, more possibilities. You could take a mains lead of your own and connect it to the LC2. Leaves you only with the question which 2 leads to use from the lamp. That would be possible to measure, if you have the equipment for it.. You could take out the bulb from the lamp and search for any lead that corresponds with the one you found in the dimmer.
Make sure you're using right bulb and measure the inlet/outlet with Voltmeter or simple phase tester as the LC2 is Phase-cutting (TRIAC) system
Standard filament bulbs 40 - 300 watts High-voltage halogen bulbs:220 - 240V 40 - 300 watts Low-voltage halogen bulbs 220 - 240V transformer 40 - 300 watts
LC1 and LC2 Usage
Halogen lights may be used with LC2 (but not LC1) together with the dimmer function. The dimmer function cannot be used with fluorescent bulbs including energy saving bulbs (which are based on the fluorescent tube principle).
Usage Notes - December 2003
LC2 has been through a new approval process and as a consequence it cannot be used with low voltage halogen bulbs, low energy bulbs or fluorescent tubes. It is approved only for connection with standard filament bulbs. LC2 will continue in its current form only and there are no plans to update this product.
Hiort: I want to replace an existing wall dimmer with an LC2, but are unsure how to connect the cables. Current dimmer: Has tree terminals. Two marked with a "wavy =" and an arrow, and one marked "L" When I remove the dimmer I can see that two black leads are joined together in the terminal marked "L" and two yellow leads are connected to the two terminals with a "wavy =" On the LC2 here are four teminals marked "arrow", "arrow", "N" and "N". I tried to connect one yellow lead to each "arrow" terminal, and one black to each "N" terminal in the LC2 but it did not work. Any advice? /Claes
The connection procedure is clearly shown in the LC2 instruction manual. Is it an infringement of copyright or of the rules of this forum if I scan the appropriate section and post it up?
Aha, good point - never crossed my mind, on the other end in my defence the answer (under my opinion) shall be: Have qualified electrician to do that
kokomo: The connection procedure is clearly shown in the LC2 instruction manual. Is it an infringement of copyright or of the rules of this forum if I scan the appropriate section and post it up?
Bob: Not really to qualified electrician is a piece of cake ... besides it does follows simple rules (it's not DC after all ;) it's L&N in and L&N out ;) for more details see: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/manuals/LC_2_English.pdf Beobuddy: It doesn't make it easier... More leads, more possibilities.
Beobuddy: It doesn't make it easier... More leads, more possibilities.
Apparently Hiort doesn't have the equipment to measure.
For me, it is a piece of cake But that doesn't help Hiort.....
In holland we say: "meten is weten". As could probably be translated in: "measuring is knowledgement"
Bob: Make sure you're using right bulb and measure the inlet/outlet with Voltmeter or simple phase tester as the LC2 is Phase-cutting (TRIAC) system
Therefore as it is a phase cutting Triac system, it needs a Null.
It needs both a phase and Null as it has to create it own small powersupply to feed the microchip and ir-reception.
Bob: You wrong Leslie ;) many dimmers don't require Neutral, hence assuming he already have Neutral could be misleading Leslie: Beobuddy: Hiort is replacing a dimmer, so it must have already a null and a phase lead. It's called N(eutral) and L(ive) side
Excuse me, I was just explaining that L means Live and N means Neutral instead of Null or Phase? Not discussing wether it needs a "phase" or not!
Whatever Leslie,
Don't bother.
Phase, Live etc.
Neutral, Null or Zero. The latter one should be hold or touched with your hands/fingers without being electrocuted.
Would you dare?
Hi thanks for that, I'm axially from electric/electronic background (just not capable to work in the field any more)
Beobuddy: Bob: Make sure you're using right bulb and measure the inlet/outlet with Voltmeter or simple phase tester as the LC2 is Phase-cutting (TRIAC) system Therefore as it is a phase cutting Triac system, it needs a Null. It needs both a phase and Null as it has to create it own small powersupply to feed the microchip and ir-reception.
You're excused
Leslie: Bob: You wrong Leslie ;) many dimmers don't require Neutral, hence assuming he already have Neutral could be misleading Leslie: Beobuddy: Hiort is replacing a dimmer, so it must have already a null and a phase lead. It's called N(eutral) and L(ive) side Excuse me, I was just explaining that L means Live and N means Neutral instead of Null or Phase? Not discussing wether it needs a "phase" or not!
Thank you - my point exactly.... If you have a tooth ache do you attempt fixing it, do you self diagnose yourselves instead going to doctor?
I shall think not - No experience or and equipment = Hands off!
Beobuddy: Bob: Not really to qualified electrician is a piece of cake ... besides it does follows simple rules (it's not DC after all ;) it's L&N in and L&N out ;) for more details see: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/manuals/LC_2_English.pdf Beobuddy: It doesn't make it easier... More leads, more possibilities. Apparently Hiort doesn't have the equipment to measure. For me, it is a piece of cake But that doesn't help Hiort..... In holland we say: "meten is weten". As could probably be translated in: "measuring is knowledgement"
Bob: Thank you - my point exactly.
Thank you - my point exactly.
But still Hiort is sitting in the dark within a few hours
Yeah I feel the (his) pain ;) - there's 100's if not 1000's electricians in Yellow pages (if manual links and answer didn't hep him) and by now he might need instruction on replacing fuse.
I promise you Hiort I'm not making fun of it :)
Beobuddy: Bob: Thank you - my point exactly. But still Hiort is sitting in the dark within a few hours
Beobuddy: Whatever Leslie, Don't bother. Phase, Live etc. Neutral, Null or Zero. The latter one should be hold or touched with your hands/fingers without being electrocuted. Would you dare?
No way Beobuddy
Thanks guys, for engaging in my thread. I will still leave it to a professional to install.