ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I have just been doing some repair/refurbishment to a friend's 9000.
Thanks to Martin's cap kit, the cd now works fine.
The work included replacing the adhesive strips that hold the glass panels, with quite dense double-sided strips from Quality Dream Audio, whose service has been very good.
I find some inputs respond readily to a light touch but some (the lower numbers of cd tracks, eg) need a firm/long/large-thumb press before responding.
Does the 9000 respond to physical movement of the glass [downwards] or does it detect capacitance, etc...?
I'm not familiar with these [lovely] units, do they normally respond readily ie to a light touch?
Any help gratefully received!
John
The function selection is touch sensitive,Touching each "zone" triggers a transistor and then via a latching circuit,sends a command to the processor.You shouldn't need to press down on the glass,and I suspect that the double sided tape you have used is too thick.
Nick
solderon29: The function selection is touch sensitive,Touching each "zone" triggers a transistor and then via a latching circuit,sends a command to the processor.You shouldn't need to press down on the glass,and I suspect that the double sided tape you have used is too thick. Nick
I Agree with Nick. If the top surface of your glass is much more the 1mm above the top of the plastic frames then you tape is too thick.
Did you clean the residual tape off of the glass and plastic frames or did you stick the new over the old? I have seen that done before now.
Regards Graham
I did clean the frames very thoroughly, but I fear (from what you say) that the foam tape is too thick. It measures 0.9mm thick. It's pretty dense: it's supplied by Quality Dream Audio in UK.
A digital micrometer shows that the glass is typically 1.5mm [sometimes more, up to 2.0mm] above the plastic frame along the near edge of the lower glass. :(
Am I right in assuming that the only solution is to remove the panel, separate the glass from the frames, and start again?
I know it is very sticky once in contact with the frame, because I misaligned one strip of foam. That's going to be one helluva job. :(
Any suggestions for suitable double-sided tape? I have some sold as carpet tape by LIDL, which is about 50mm wide, but could be cut across in strips, and also some more like sellotape [but double-sided], both about 0.6mm thick incl backing.
Thanks,
Hi John do not buy carpet double-sided tape ,i have tried that does not work very well, but what will and had two successful results and still is is double sided dispenser Scotch tape 12mmx11.4 buy it from stationary shop/ebay amazon , cut the required length & fold it in half and very good results still up and running over two years so far .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Scotch-Double-Sided-Tape-Dispensered-Roll-12-7mm-x-11-4m-1-roll-/161721524419?epid=1634507654&hash=item25a75aa0c3:g:1bsAAOSwB4NW1NIc
John: I did clean the frames very thoroughly, but I fear (from what you say) that the foam tape is too thick. It measures 0.9mm thick. It's pretty dense: it's supplied by Quality Dream Audio in UK. A digital micrometer shows that the glass is typically 1.5mm [sometimes more, up to 2.0mm] above the plastic frame along the near edge of the lower glass. :( Am I right in assuming that the only solution is to remove the panel, separate the glass from the frames, and start again? I know it is very sticky once in contact with the frame, because I misaligned one strip of foam. That's going to be one helluva job. :( Any suggestions for suitable double-sided tape? I have some sold as carpet tape by LIDL, which is about 50mm wide, but could be cut across in strips, and also some more like sellotape [but double-sided], both about 0.6mm thick incl backing. Thanks, John
Yes, normally you would need to remove the the and start over, however... there is a possibility you can fix it without new tape.
Ont the pcb boards under each glass panel, you can see black 1cm(approx) rubber stubs. These are the connection between the PCB and the glass. When you slide the glass on, these rubber stubs touches the grey squares(conductive paint) on the underside of the glass.
These rubber parts can be pulled up from the PCB with a force a bit more than is comfortable, they are glued to the PCB, but with a firm grib with thumb an d index finger, you can pull the free of the glue without destroying them.
Then you can try to pull them up by 2mm and re-attaching the glass.
I have done this once, dont know how long it will last because, they might slip down to the bottom again.
The second thing to use is aluminium tape on the underside of the glass, cut to the size of the grey markings. I have once created a whole new glass plate, and by using aluminium tape on the underside of the glass, this works just as fine as the conductive paint. If you put on a layer of alu tape, that might give you the 0.5/1mm of added force to the rubber points.
The chance of ruining the glass by trying to remove very sticky tape, is high, so maybe the idea with pulling the rubber mounts a bit up(just as a test on one of the buttons that does not work properly) may be the first step I would try.
All of this is at your own risk !!!!! Just my input :)
/Jacob
Thanks.
If I have to restick, I'll get some.
Thanks Weebix, I'll try lifting the rubber cones.