ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi,
After getting help from you guys to bring my Beocenter 9500 back from the dead I have started to restore it into a good working condition.
So far I have tried to clean it up a bit. There are some major issues:
1.CD door does not close easily. It jams half way and you need to press the load button twice to get it to close or open completely. After cleaning the rails and lubing the brass axis I get it to function properly when the lid is in service position. The problem is when the lid is back in normal position. The the door engages the clamper arm (as it should) but it is not very smooth. You can actually see the whole CD mech move while the CD grips the arm and pull it into the open position. There is quite a lot of old grease on the underside of the CD door where the pin of the clamper arm engages. Should there be grease here? The servicemanual does a poor job explaining how to get best operation from the doors.
2. The lower glass panel is broken in two (surprise). I really need to find another one but 9500 ones are scarce. Does the 9300 work cosmetically? I understand that you loose the timer button. Have anyone tried one on a 9500?
3. Glass panels are loose. What kind of thickness is ok to use on the doubled sided tape to re-attach them? I have found one superstrong from Jula here in Sweden (a hardware store). It seams to be 1mm thick.
/Mikael
Beocenter Overture | Beolink passive | CX100 | CX50
I can only comment on Q3 - I took advice from the old forum and simply used super glue gel to fix the glass back in place. I left the old tape in place, hence no messy cleaning required. This has worked well for two BC9500s (and a BL5000 screen!)
I'll be interested in responses to Q1 as my mother in law's BC9500 has the same problem and I have tried extensive cleaning with no success. I think the cord may need replacing as it tends to 'stick' on the rotating metal spindle whilst opening, and looks as if it should slide sideways to make room for more cord.
Re Q2 - perhaps a BC9000 panel will fit? There are a few of those around cheap as the CD spindle breaks (unrepairably) rendering them less useful. This of course does have the 'Timer' button.
1. replace the door belts, done in a minute, cost just a few bucks and are readily available from B&O. can't tell you anything about the grease though
2. use the glue that is meant for car windshields to fix the old one or ask beoworld member Leslie, think he's got some glass panels left
3. either reattach them the original way, double sided foam tape: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Super-Strong-Double-Sided-Foam-Tape-6mm-X-10m-/400243210944 that should last 10-15 years. If you want a permanent fix, above mentioned glue will do the job, the one for the windshields (not super glue, remember the ugly white residue it leaves?)
Yes, replacing the belts is probably a cheap way to get better traction in order to move the doors. Hopefully there are some in stock at the local service center.
I have asked Leslie if he has a panel and are waiting for him to come back, but in case he doesn't have one then it is good to know my options.
Finally I have some pictures especially for Soeren (how do you make a danish oe on a mac keyboard) in Mexico:
The broken glass panel (sigh)...
The top stripped on all its panels. You can probably notice the long scratch on the CD door.
Some parts left to dry after cleaned with soapy water (they were really dirty).
Mikael:The the door engages the clamperarm (as it should) but it is not very smooth. You can actually see the whole CD mech move while the CD grips the arm and pull it into the open position. There is quite a lot of old grease on the underside of the CD door where the pin of the clamper arm engages. Should there be grease here?
Originally there was some grease, but it is now hard and sticky. The best thing to do about it is clean it away completely (do the same for the rails the lids move on) and relubricate with very little silicone grease. Apply with a cotton bud or something, never spray silicone directly on the target as it will get everywhere, even the places that should have friction.
Mikael:The servicemanual does a poor job explaining how to get best operation from the doors.
Service manuals aren't usually too helpful with old age problems. They were written when the units were brand new!
--mika
Mikael: I have asked Leslie if he has a panel and are waiting for him to come back, but in case he doesn't have one then it is good to know my options.
We had email contact but I was not aware that you needed one from me, sorry! Will check tomorrow!
Brengen & Ophalen
Leslie: It is probably me that wrote a confusing reply to your email. No problems!
Got one!
Leslie: Got one!
Great! What would the beo community do without you Leslie?
I also visited my local B&O repair center today and picked up two belts for the doors. They were only like 5 Euros or so a picece. So it is really a no brainer, just replace the old ones. A tube of silicon grease was also purchased, hopefully that will do the trick.
Stay tuned!
Mikael: I also visited my local B&O repair center today and picked up two belts for the doors. They were only like 5 Euros or so a picece. So it is really a no brainer, just replace the old ones. A tube of silicon grease was also purchased, hopefully that will do the trick.
Hope that this will resolve your door problem but I'm afraid that it won't work. Most of the cases the rope or string becomes black and slippery and that's what causes this door problem. But still, you never know....
Leslie: Hope that this will resolve your door problem but I'm afraid that it won't work. Most of the cases the rope or string becomes black and slippery and that's what causes this door problem. But still, you never know....
Well it sort of fixed the problems. Comparing the new and old belts was a revelation. The new ones were about an inch shorter so they really stretch over time. After installing them I would say the improvement on the door movement was moderate. But when I applied silicon grease to the rails with a cotton bud it really helped the door to go the whole distance. There is still an issue if the door open with a CD on the spindle. Then it stops sooner and does not go all the way. I am a bit reluctant to add silicon grease to the underside of the door where the clamper arm engage. Spreading the grease onto the CD mech is not a dream scenario.
Picked up a package from Leslie today:
You guessed it right. It is the new lower glass panel. And with an unexpected bonus of new foam tape added.
Thank you Leslie!
I have also cleaned the upper glass panel from the old foam tape residue. Not an easy job but warm water made it possible to scrape it off with my fingernail.
Happy it arrived safely!
Leslie: Mikael: I also visited my local B&O repair center today and picked up two belts for the doors. They were only like 5 Euros or so a picece. So it is really a no brainer, just replace the old ones. A tube of silicon grease was also purchased, hopefully that will do the trick. Hope that this will resolve your door problem but I'm afraid that it won't work. Most of the cases the rope or string becomes black and slippery and that's what causes this door problem. But still, you never know....
Actually you were right. The CD door has become worse and sticks. The cords are black and full of grime. I got tired and removed them. A stupid move maybe but I don't see another fix for the problem. The door moves like a hot knife through butter so theres no problem without the cord drive connected. Wish me luck putting it all together again.
Lots of patience is needed Mikael . I did that excersise before, don't ask me how, but I did it! Typical sunday practice
Don't take them both out or else you can't copy (mirrorized) if you know what I mean, unless you have more you units!
Leslie: Don't take them both out or else you can't copy (mirrorized) if you know what I mean, unless you have more you units!
I actually managed to get the string drive back on. It was not so bad as I had imagined. Just a teaspoon of patience or two.
For you who are going to try this then the recipe is:
The procedure i used to put the cord drive back on one side is:
How did you remove the bottom glass panel off the 9500?
(I have a similar problem with it 'lifting')
Thanks AP
One screw from below left side.Then slide the panel to the right a couple of cm's and lift it off.
Same goes for the upper panel.
Martin
Great instructions Mikael! Will follow your procedures soon!
Pestria: How did you remove the bottom glass panel off the 9500? (I have a similar problem with it 'lifting') Thanks AP
For removing both lower and upper panels
So time for a small update. After fixing the door problem I started putting the unit back together again.
The top glass panel was really hard to clean up from all that stickey goo. The old foam tape sure left a mess. I ended up using medical benzine (used to remove surgical tape residue etc from skin) on the plastic rails that attach to the panels. Luckily Leslie sent me the lower glasspanel ready to be sticked on so that was easy. For the upper panel I used a double sided sticky tape from Jula here in Sweden.
So here it is:
Leslie: Great instructions Mikael! Will follow your procedures soon!
Just glad to be of help if someone needs this type of thing done. Good luck with yours!
Mikael: So time for a small update. After fixing the door problem I started putting the unit back together again. The top glass panel was really hard to clean up from all that stickey goo. The old foam tape sure left a mess. I ended up using medical benzine (used to remove surgical tape residue etc from skin) on the plastic rails that attach to the panels. Luckily Leslie sent me the lower glasspanel ready to be sticked on so that was easy. For the upper panel I used a double sided sticky tape from Jula here in Sweden. So here it is:
Thank you Leslie, My BC9500 didn't respond well to touch, had to press really hard on each command. It's also not fixed, moving left - right 5mm. I loosen the screw, took the panel out and put it back. When the screw is tight, it doesn't work. I'm fine with this, if there is better solution please respond. Greetings, marko
Did you remove every fingerprint on the backside? It does not like grease...
Had the same problem. CD door sticking, managed to regrease and working fine. My problem is that the door opens but the spindle motor starts to spin and the laser is trying to read a disc that is not there. It seems that the door is in the open position when it should be closed. Any ideas would be grateful.
Swap the two leads going to the door motor.
Hi Martin, that worked great. Common sense why that worked. Thanks for your help. I do have two LED not working on the CD numbers 6 & 7 next to where you press to change the tracks for the CD. I used a meter and they came on when testing. Any idea as they are next to each other. Cheers Barry
I've often seen cracked solder joints being the cause of intermittent LEDs.On the LEDs themselves and/or on board connectors etc.