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Beomaster 8000 Damage Assessment

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This post has 10 Replies | 2 Followers

trymes
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trymes Posted: Sun, Sep 30 2012 12:10 AM

Well, I recently took a leap of faith and bought a complete BeoMaster 8000 system on Craigslist and had it shipped to me. It's the whole thing, BeoMaster, BeoCord, BeoGram, SC80 cabinet, and two speakers. I'm pretty psyched!

Except......it showed up and the BeoMaster got crushed. I think that they backed a forklift into it, or something. The metal around the heatsink got bent, along with the heatsink. The corner of the glass over the display was cracked, lots of the LCD segments are now toast, the switches on the programming panel don't seem to function, plus about every piece of plastic that holds everything (like the circuit boards, programming cover, central metal strip, etc.) in place got broken . Lots of other small pieces were also broken, including some damage to the remote, etc. 

At this point, it powers on but no sound comes out, and I am pretty much assuming that the whole unit will be a complete write-off.

Based on this, I have a few questions:

1.) Are there any places around in the New England area that do B&O repair?

2.) There is a red wire that appears to have come loose from somewhere. Can anyone tell me where it should go (see the attached picture)?

3.) What is the Grey cord that comes out by the top of the display and ends in an RCA connector?

4.) Does anyone have a link to the service manual? The unit came with a portion of it.

Thank you,

Tom

elephant
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elephant replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 12:12 AM

welcome to Beoworld 

and very very sorry to hear of that disaster

you must be gutted

I am sure some of the guys will be able to help

good repairing and good luck

(and just hang in there)

BeoNut since '75

trymes
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trymes replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 12:43 AM

Thanks for the welcome! I am disappointed, but at least the shipment was insured...

Anyhow, I forgot about the photo. The red wire in question is in mid-air by the speaker switches. The other end is connected to the bottommost board under the volume and tuning wheels.

Tom

Søren Mexico
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There is a user and service manual onsite for Silver and Gold members

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

trymes
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trymes replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 2:49 AM

Some more information: It seems that the only obvious issue inside the unit from an electrical point of view is this one wire. I'm sure there's lots of stuff I cannot see, and there is definitely lots of damage to the chassis itself (the transformer had come loose from its mooring and shunted the power supply board!).

Having said that, here are some more photos:

The red wire in question can be seen passing through the board in the upper left corner of this photo near "TR26".

It is then soldered to the underside of the board near "C25". Where is the other end supposed to terminate?

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 7:15 AM

I never noticed that upside down IC before and not the red wire either.
Does this Beomaster have a white or red serial number label ?

Martin

Peter
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Peter replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 10:09 AM

The problem you have is the cosmetics - I am sure that eventually you could get this working but what will it look like? I would keep the other components and get another 8000. The one you have needs the red capacitors changing!!

Peter

trymes
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trymes replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 5:53 PM

Dillen:

I never noticed that upside down IC before and not the red wire either.
Does this Beomaster have a white or red serial number label ?

Odd. I hadn't noticed that the IC was upside down. If you look at the photo, you can see the red wire that connects to the processor (?) board (the one to which the display board connects) at R83 is connected to one of the pins of the IC. The end of the red wire that is loose in my unit has the same clear heat-shrink on it, leading me to believe that it should be similarly connected somewhere.

Here is a shot of the serial number label. It is stamped in black on a gray label, with a red P3 on it. Perhaps it'll shed some light on this.

As for the cosmetic concerns, Peter, you're right. However, there are a few reasons I'd like to try and make this unit work properly:

1.) I like the challenge, and this sort of stuff interests me.

2.) If I have an electronically functional unit I can source a cosmetically good but non-functional unit for parts and combine the two, rather than having to find a fully functional unit.

3.) Until I can source a good unit, I am forced to use my HK AVR-40 receiver perched precariously on my SC80 to use the BeoGram or BeoCord. This is less than ideal for any number of reasons, both functionally and cosmetically. If I can make this unit work, I can enjoy the system while looking for a functional unit.

Tom

trymes
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trymes replied on Sun, Sep 30 2012 6:26 PM

More information: The upside-down IC is connected to the circuit board via a white wire and is also connected to a gray RCA cable that exits the case at the top right of the chassis, at the top corner of the display by the speaker outputs. What is that RCA cable connected to?

Here's a  quick, low-quality video for good measure:

Rich
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Rich replied on Mon, Oct 1 2012 4:46 PM

trymes:

1.) Are there any places around in the New England area that do B&O repair?

Atlantic Systems

Have never used them myself, but have read success stories here.

I use Benny Amina in Georgia and recommend him highly.

Welcome to Beoworld, and good luck with your new system.


trymes
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trymes replied on Mon, Oct 1 2012 8:16 PM

Looking into this deeper, it does indeed look as if the IC is some sort of "custom" wiring. It appears that it is wired into the white wires on the connector, plus who knows what else. Still no idea what the RCA could be for...

In this photo you can clearly see that the wiring is, ahem, unique.

Am I correct in thinking that I should perhaps first try using headphones through the plug in the front of the unit? If that works, but nothing through the speakers, we're dealing with an amplifier circuit problem? At this point it seems mostly functionalish, except the glaring lack of any sound output.

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