ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I have just gotten myself a beogram 6006 (for free...), which is in pretty good condition, with a MMC 20CL, and a never used MMC 20CL as a spare.
It has been sitting on a shelf for 5+ years, where it was put because it wouldn't play.
I have been looking around a bit, and have found a service manual, and now know how to dismantle most of it.
The foam tape that used to hold some of it together is dead and gone, but otherwise its good. I can probably fix the foam tape, its not a big problem.
Reading up on this player I found that most problems with it is due to bad solders. So I went ahead and resoldered the solders from the transformer, and for some of the big caps.Now the player turns the table slowly for ~10 seconds on power on, but then stops. There is light in the arm paralel to the pickup and in the display for about a second. Repeated power ons only gives shorter and shorter hums from the turntable, and a short blink in the display and arm.I need some help to get further ahead.How do I get the circuit board of the player? I cant figure it out.Where can I get spare capacitors? Are they easy to replace.Is there any chance of getiing it back to life?Any help apreciated.
I would very much like to get it working, and would even pay someone to repair it, if necessary, as I have allways liked and admired these turntables.I think they are some of the best ever made, and I would love to have one in working condition
More soldering is needed, particularly at the CPU socket (ESD-workspace!).I can supply a capacitor-kit and a reproduction stainless steel tachodisc to replaceyours if its still the original printed plastic type.Both things are essential.
I also do repairs, but if you need a repairer, it would help a lot if you'd let us knowwhere you are (country will do for a start).
Martin
I thought that some more soldering was needed, and that the capacitors are probably gone.The tacho disc is made of steel/aluminium with holes in it, and looks fine. Probably has been replaced at some time.
I live in Vejle, Denmark.
I would very much like to know how much you think a repair would cost
Email to you.
Replied.Så tager vi den derfra.
Although he will be embarrassed by this, I can think of no-one I would want to repair my B&O more than Martin - I am sure you will be pleased!
Peter
Just a short reply to show the results of Dillens hard work.
It plays and sounds beautifully :)
The placing on top of my sub is temporary...
Good to know! Often people won't bother coming back when their problem is solved, so thank you.
The arms don't look parallel though.
Jacques
chartz:The arms don't look parallel though
That's because the BeoGram is playing!
The drag in the pickup-arm is what makes the sled move along with the record (At least that's how it's made on the later models).
- Dennis
If I stand above the player, and look down, the arms look parallel.
The picture probably looks otherwise because the arm is lowered, and the pic is taken at a small angle from the arms.
Dennis:The drag in the pickup-arm is what makes the sled move along with the record (At least that's how it's made on the later models).
Dillen told me something like this.
Theres an optical sensor below the arm, that notices the angle of the arm in respect to the sled. If the change in this angle gets bigger than 1 degree, the sled is moved by the motor driving the spindle.I believe there is some wigle in the arm to follow uncentered records, with out activating the circuit unwillingly.
Actually the arms should look perfectly parallel at all times, only the slightest error should call for correction by the servo motor and this should not be visible
Dennis: chartz:The arms don't look parallel though That's because the BeoGram is playing! The drag in the pickup-arm is what makes the sled move along with the record (At least that's how it's made on the later models). - Dennis
Olly
I think you are right about the angle of the picture making the arms look unparallel - I just checked, and the arms look parallel on my BeoGram 3500 when playing. The drag in the pickup arm is probably to small to be noticed by the naked eye. And yes, there's an optical sensor on the old models, but I know for sure, that the arms on the newer models move along with the record because of the drag in the pickup arm when playing.
You'll have to take that one with Dillen. I just translated what he told me when I asked.Its easy to see the electronics telling the spindle to turn one or two times pr. second when a record is playing, so its not only drag that moves the arms.. But it is drag that triggers the electronics to move the spindle, since it puts the arm out of angle.Well, I'm no expert, so I wont say more on this subject.My Beogram 6006 plays again, so I'm happy :)
The arms are all dragged by the record grooves Dennis, the servo system then adjusts the sled to compensate for the movement (via an optical sensor). It is not in anyway intelligent as with some other linear trackers, nor passive. With an ideal record (i.e. perfectly central tracks) and a well maintained servo system in good working order the arm deflection should not be noticeable.Eccentric record grooves, worn servo motor (bearings / brushes), incorrect servo belt, slipping / too tight, old lubricant and miss-aligned optics / main screw etc. may all result in a visible toeing in of the arm :-)
Making a diagnose from a pic is not easy, the arm is lowered, this will show in the pic as out of angle, and if Martin did the repair he also tested the functions, so no need to worry, Martin always make great works.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Sorry if I caused a stir, but for me the arms are always parallel from that point of view when playing. The arm movement is invisible, much like a clockwork mechanism. At all times both arms should be parallel! But as you say, it might just be an optical illusion!
It could be an optical illusion, I agree.Actually, the more I look at it, I think the tonearm looks perfectly parallel to the edge of thealuminum surrounding the platter. So if anything has been knocked out of alignment it willhave to be the sensorarm but still, I think it is merely the photo, tricks of light etc. and nothing to worry about.If the tonearm had been knocked out of alignment, it wouldn't go unnoticed. Even a slight skew would cause thetracking to fail drastically and either run off like mad or don't run at all.
Glad to hear that it plays again and you are satisfied with the repair.
BTW: This particular Beogram 6006 is in original oak finish and I just had a Beogram 8000 in oak on the bench as well.Both were from danish owners.It is quite rare to see the Beosystem 6000/8000 pieces in this finish, most are palisander (rosewood) and a few are white.
How lovely, I have been in awe whenever I have come across oak pieces they have always been in mint condition (does this say something about the person who originally chooses oak???) and the corners look somewhat crisper! The best was a pair of S-80's and they looked gorgeous!
To try to put everyones minds at peace, I have taken some more photos with a better camera, to show that the arms are aligned. There might be a slight skew on the sensor arm, but I'm not sure, and if there is its very small. I think the second picture shows that they are parallel.This particular Beogram is in good mechanical condition I believe. Cosmetically it is not so good. Its still great looking, but the lid has some scratches, and the wood finish is broken of in one of the corners. There are some other marks of wear and tear.But one of the days I'll clean it up to remove the spots, and the dirt/dust, and it will look good. I think its basically a beautiful machine, my only complaint is that the platters don't support much of the record, and the "rests" on the platter could have been made of a softer more vibration dampening material.That aside, I'm very happy with it, and actually a little surprised at how good it sounds. I have a very capable setup, and this player has no problems providing all the details, nuances, and 3-dimensionality that is hidden in good recordings.
Here's my Beogram 8000. Indeed the arms don't look perfectly aligned on the first picture, but do when taken from above!
The lid can be dealt with; with care and TIME it can be restored to look almost perfect!
:
And you put a Jarre record on the player. The same one I'm playing this very moment (Magnetic Fields) :)Good to see my setup is OK, but I do need some cleaning up, before its as good as yours...
And we have the same cartridge too! I have listened to Jean-Michel Jarre since aged 15 and my LP's are from that era (late 70's, early 80's), birthday presents from my parents!
Enjoy the music then!
What is the rest of your system?
Yes, I noticed the pickup too. I have a spare 20CL that has never been used, so I'm good for some time.
All my Jarre records, where actually bought by my brother. He is a great fan, and had all of them on the release date. Some of them are special pressings. I have grown up with Jarre, and have listened since I was 7-8 years old.The rest of my system is not B&O.I have an Anthem MRX 300 surround receiver, playing through self-build Hypex UCD-400HG/HxR amps, and my main speakers are Dali Mentor 6. I also have a BK XXLS400 subwoofer. The B&O plays through a NAD PP2, that I have modified with a better PSU, and larger capacitors in the PSU inside the box (helps tighten up the bas, among other things).The Anthem is known for its exceptional sound. Normally Surround receivers dont sound good for music, but thats not the case here. Also it has got a very capable room correction system, that if set up proberly, really helps the sound.The Hypex's are known as being extremely precise, very powerfull, and they have exceptional control over the speakers.My Dali's are also known for their sound. The special tweeter module, is the star in this speaker, making them extremely detailed. They are very versatile, as I wanted my speakers to be.The BK sub is a very capable sub, known for bang for the buck, and I had to have a good sub, if it should live up to the SQ of the Dali's.The NAD RIAA is known to be good bang for the buck, and easy to modify to get it sounding better.For digital listening I almost exclusively use my Logitech Squeezebox Classic, with modified PSU. All my music is on a NAS, or streamed via Spotify.As you can see my parts are hand picked, with an eye for bang for the buck, and most of it is bought after extensive listening to different products, to find the best sound for me.Oh, I'm getting away from subject, sorry, but I am proud of my system and the work I have put into it.
Here we have my Beogram 6006. It also has been serviced by Dillen twice but it holds up quite well and sounds wonderful with a MMC20CL. This is original white edition in really good condition for its age. It came with the rest of Beosystem 6000 units back in late 2007 DOA.